of  t|)e 

ajnftiewitp  of  jQorti)  Carolina 


ann 

Pl^nantlitopic  Societies; 
972.91 

BIS  3a 


This  BOOK  may  be  kept  out  TWO  WEEKS 
ONLY,  and  is  subject  to  a  fine  of  FIVE 
CENTS  a  day  thereafter.  It  was  taken  out  on 
the  day  indicated  below: 


APR  1  9 1973 

MAY  0  8  ISbS 


JU10"96, 


JUN 1  5 


1997 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 
in  2014 


littps://archive.org/details/duesouthorcubapaOOball_0 


HB^  tt)e  same  ^utl^or* 


A  TREASURY  OF  THOUGHT.  An  Encyclopaedia  of  Quotations  from 
Ancient  and  Modern  Authors.  Compiled  by  Maturin  M.  Ballou.  8vo, 
full  gilt,  $4.00;  half  calf  or  half  morocco,  $6.50;  morocco,  full  gilt,  ^^7.50. 

The  most  complete  and  exhaustive  volume  of  the  kind  w^ith  which 
we  are  acquainted.  The  literature  of  all  times  has  contributed  to  it, 
and  the  range  of  reading  necessary  to  its  compilation  is  the  widest.  — 
Hartford  Courant. 

NOTABLE  THOUGHTS  ABOUT  WOMEN.  A  Literary  Mosaic.  By 
Maturii^  M.  Ballou.    Crown  8vo,  $1.50. 

We  have  more  than  four  hundred  pages  crammed  full  of  delicious 
bits  from  nearly  every  writer  of  any  celebrity,  English,  American, 
French,  or  German,  early  and  modern,  and  it  is  a  fascinating  medley. 
The  selections  are  made  with  good  taste  and  judgment,  and  when  one 
takes  up  the  book  it  is  difficult  to  lay  it  down,  for  one  is  led  on  from 
one  brilliant  or  striking  thought  to  another,  in  a  way  that  is  quite  ab- 
sorbing. —  Portland  Transcript. 

PEARLS  OF  THOUGHT.  Notable  Sentences  from  the  wisest  Authors. 
Compiled  by  Maturin  M.  Ballou.  i6mo,  full  gilt,  ^1.25  ;  half  morocco, 
^2  50. 

The  first  noticeable  thing  about  "  Pearls  of  Thought  "  is  that  the 
"pearls  "  are  offered  in  a  jewel-box  of  printing  and  binding.  The  se- 
lections have  the  merit  of  being  short  and  sparkling.  The  arrangement 
is  convenient  ;  the  selections  are  grouped  topically,  and  the  topics  are 
arranged  alphabetically.  Authors,  ancient  and  modern,  and  of  all  na- 
tions, are  represented.  —  New  York  Tribune. 

DUE  WEST  ;  or,  Round  the  World  in  Ten  Months.    Crown  8vo,  ^1.50. 

It  is  a  book  of  books  on  foreign  travel,  and  deserves  to  be  in  the 
hands  of  all  subsequent  writers  as  combining  just  the  qualities  to  give 
the  greater  information  and  zest.  —  Boston  Commonwealths 

DUE  SOUTH;  or,  Cuba  Past  and  Present.    Crown  Svo,  I1.50. 

This  attractive  volume  is  full  of  fresh  information  concerning  the 
Bahama  Islands,  the  Caribbean  Sea,  and  the  history  of  Cuba  from  its 
discovery  to  the  present  time.  It  was  written  during  the  winter  of  1885 
in  the  regions  described. 


HOUGHTON,  MIFFLIN  &  CO.,  Publishers, 
Boston  and  New  York. 


CUBA  PAST  AND  PRESENT 


MATURIN  M.  BALLOU 

AUTHOR  OF  "  DUE  WEST,*   OR  ROUND  THE  WORLD  IN  TEN  MONTHS  " 


FOURTH  EDITION 


BOSTON  AND  NEW  YORK 
HOUGHTON,  MIFFLIN  AND  COMPANY 

1888 


Copyright,  1885, 
By  MATURIN  M.  BALLOU. 


All  rights  reserved* 


The  Riverside  Press,  Cambridge : 
Electrotyped  and  Printed  by  II.  0.  Houghton  and  Companj. 


PEEFAOE. 


The  public  favor  accorded  to  a  late  volume  by 
the  author  of  these  pages,  entitled  "  Due  West ;  or 
Round  the  World  in  Ten  Months,"  has  suggested 
both  the  publication  and  the  title  of  the  yolume  in 
hand,  which  consists  of  notes  of  a  voyage  to  the  trop- 
ics, and  a  sojourn  in  Cuba  during  the  last  winter. 
The  endeavor  has  been  to  present  a  comprehensive 
view  of  the  island,  past  and  present,  and  to  depict 
the  political  and  moral  darkness  which  have  so  long 
enshrouded  it.  A  view  of  its  interesting  inhabitants, 
with  a  glance  at  its  beautiful  flora  and  vegetation 
generally,  has  been  a  source  of  such  hearty  enjoy- 
ment to  the  author  that  he  desires  to  share  the 
pleasure  with  the  appreciative  reader.  The  great 
importance  of  the  geographical  position  of  the  island, 
its  present  critical  condition,  and  the  proposed  treaty 
of  commerce  with  this  country,  together  render  it  at 
present  of  unusual  interest  in  the  eyes  of  the  world. 
If  possible,  Cuba  is  more  Castilian  than  peninsular 
Spain,  and  both  are  so  Moorish  as  to  present  a  fasci- 
nating study  of  national  characteristics. 

M.  M.  B. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  I. 

Departure.  —  On  Board  Ship —  Arrival  at  Nassau.  —  Capital  of 
the  Bahamas.  —  Climate.  —  Soil.  —  Fruits  and  Flowers.  — 
Magic  Fertility.  —  Colored  Population.  —  The  Blockade  Run- 
ners. —  Population.  — Products.  —  A  Picturesque  Local  Scene. 

—  Superstition.  —  Fish  Story.  —  The  Silk-Cotton  Tree.  — Re- 
markable Vegetation.  —  The  Sea  Gardens.  —  Marine  Animal 
Life.  —  The  Bahama  Banks.  — Burial  at  Sea.  —  Venal  Offi- 
cials.—  Historical  Characters.  —  The  Early  Buccaneers.  —  Div- 
ing for  Drinking- Water   ■ 

CHAPTER  ir. 

Among  the  Islands.  —  San  Salvador.  —  A  Glimpse  at  the  Stars. 

—  Hayti.  —  The  Gulf  Stream.  —  The  Caribbean  Sea.  — Lati- 
tude and  Longitude.  —  The  Southern  Coast  of  Cuba.  —  A  Fa- 
mous Old  Fortress,  —  Fate  of  Political  Prisoners.  —  The  Old- 
est City  in  Cuba.  —  The  Aborigines.  —  Cuban  Cathedrals.  — 
Drinking  Saloons.  —  Dogs,  Horses,  and  Coolies.  —  Scenes  in 
Santiago  de  Cuba.  —  Devoured  by  Sharks.  —  Lying  at  Anchor. 

—  Wreck  of  a  Historic  Ship. —  Cuban  Circulating  Medium. — 
Tropical  Temperature  

CHAPTER  III. 

Doubling  Cape  Cruz.  —  Trinidad.  —  Cienfuegos.  —  The  Plaza. 

—  Beggars.  —  Visit  to  a  Sugar  Plantation.  —  Something  about 
Sugar.  — An  Original  Character.  —  A  Tropical  Fruit  Garden. 

—  Cuban  Hospitality.  —  The  Banana.  —  Lottery  Tickets.  — 
Chinese  Coolies.  —  Blindness  in  Cuba.  — Birds  and  Poultry. — 
The  Cock-Pit.  —  Negro  Slavery,  To-Day.  —  Spanish  Slave- 
holders.—  A  Slave 'Mutiny.  —  A  Pleasant  Journey  across  the 
Island.  —  Pictures  of  the  Interior.  —  Scenery  about  Matanzas. 

—  The  Tropics  and  the  North  contrasted  


VI  CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

PAGE 

The  Great  Genoese  Pilot.  —  Discovery  of  Cuba.  —  Its  Various 
Names.  —  Treatment  of  the  Natives.  —  Tobacco  !  —  Flora  of 
the  Island.  —  Strange  Idols.  —  Antiquity.  —  Habits  of  the 
Aborigines.  —  Remarkable  Speech  of  an  Indian  King.  —  A  Na- 
tive Entertainment.  —  Paying  Tribute.  —  Ancient  Remains. — 
Wrong  Impression  of  Columbus.  —  First  Attempt  at  Coloni- 
zation.—  Battle  with  the  Indians.  —  First  Governor  of  Cuba. 

—  Founding  Cities.  —  Emigration  from  Spain.  —  Conquest  of 
Mexico  7Q 

CHAPTER  V. 

Baracoa,  the  First  Capital. —West  Indian  Buccaneers.  —  Mili- 
tary Despotism.  —  A  Perpetual  State  of  Siege. —A  Patriotic 
Son  of  Cuba.  —  Political  Condition  of  the  Island. —Educa- 
tion of  Cuban  Youths. —Attempts  at  Revolution. —  Fate  of 
General  Narciso  Lopez.  —  The  Late  Civil  War  and  its  Leader. 
-^Terrible  Slaughter  of  Spanish  Troops.  —  Stronghold  of  the 
Insurgents.  —  Guerrillas.  —  Want  of  Self-Reliance.  —  Spanish 
Art,  Literature,  and  Conquest.  —  What  Spain  was.  —  What 
Spain  is.  —  Rise  and  Fall  of  an  Empire  88 

CHAPTER  ¥L 

Geographical.  —  A  Remarkable  Weed.  —  Turtle-Hunting. — 
Turtle-Steaks  in  Olden  Times.  —  The  Gulf  Stream. —Deep- 
Sea  Soundings.  —  Mountain  Range  of  Cuba. — Curious  Geo- 
logical Facts.  —  Subterranean  Caverns.  —  Wild  Animals.  — 
The  Rivers  of  the  Island.  —  Fine  Harbors. —  Historic  Memo- 
ries of  the  Caribbean  Sea. —  Sentinel  of  the  Gulf. — Impor- 
tance of  the  Position.  —  Climate. —  Hints  for  Invalids. — 
Matanzas.  —  Execution  of  a  Patriot.  —  Valley  of  Yumuri ; 
Caves  of  Bellamar;  Puerto  Principe;  Cardenas  102 

CHAPTER  VII. 

City  of  Havana.  —  First  Impressions.  —  The  Harbor.  —  Institu- 
tions.—  Lack  of  Educational  Facilities.  —  Cuban  Women. — 
Street  Etiquette.  —  Architecture.  —  Domestic  Arrangements. 

—  Barred  Windows  and  Bullct-Proof  Doors. — Public  Ve- 
hicles. —  Uncleanliness  of  the  Streets.  —  Spanish  or  African  ! 

—  The  Church  Bells.  —  Home-Keeping  Habits  of  Ladies.  — 


CONTENTS. 


vii 


PAGE 

Their  Patriotism.  —  Personal  Characteristics.  —  Low  Ebb  of 
Social  Life.  —  Priestcraft.  — Female  Virtue.  —  Domestic  Ties. 
—  A  Festive  Population.  —  Cosmetics. —  Sea-Bathing    .    .  .125 


CHAPTER  YIII. 

Sabbath  Scenes  in  Havana.  —  Thimble-Kiggers  and  Mounte- 
banks. —  City  Squares  and  their  Ornamentation.  —  The  Ca- 
thedral. —  Tomb  of  Columbus.  —  Plaza  de  Armas.  —  Out-Door 
Concerts.  —  Habitues  of  Paseo  de  Isabella.  —  Superbly  Ap- 
pointed Cafes.  —  Gambling.  — Lottery  Tickets.  —  Fast  Life. 
—  Masquerade  Balls.  —  Carnival  Days.  —  The  Famous  Tacon 
Theatre.  —  The  Havana  Casino.  —  Public  Statues.  —  Beau- 
ties of  the  Governor's  Garden.  —  The  Alameda.  —  The  Old 
Bell-Ringer. —Military  Mass  144 


CHAPTER  IX. 

Political  Inquisition.  —  Fashionable  Streets  of  the  City.  —  Trades- 
men's Signs.  —  Bankrupt  Condition  of  Traders.  —  The  Span- 
ish Army.  —  Exiled  Patriots.  —  Arrival  of  Piecruits. — The 
Garrote. — A  Military  Execution.  —  Cuban  Milk  Dealers. — 
Exposure  of  Domestic  Life.  —  Living  in  the  Open  Air.  —  The 
Campo  Santo  of  Havana.  —  A  Funeral  Corte'ge.  — Punishing 
Slaves.  —  Campo  de  Marte.  —  Hotel  Telegrafo.  —  Environs  of 
the  City.  —  Bishop's  Garden.  —  Consul-General  Williams. — 
Mineral  Springs  166 


CHAPTER  X. 

The  Fish-Market  of  Havana.  —  The  Dying  Dolphin.  —  Tax  upon 
the  Trade.  —  Extraordinary  Monopoly.  —  Harbor  Boats.  —  A 
Story  about  Marti,  the  Ex-Smuggler.  —  King  of  the  Isle  of 
Pines.  —  The  Offered  Reward.  —  Sentinels  in  the  Plaza  de 
Armas. —  The  Governor-General  and  the  Intruder.  —  "I  am 
Captain  Marti!" — The  Betrayal.  —  The  Ex-Smuggler  as 
Pilot.  —  The  Pardon  and  the  Peward. —  Tacon's  Stev^^ardship 
and  Official  Career.  —  Monopoly  of  Theatricals.  —  A  Negro 
Festival  184 


CHAPTER  XI. 


The  Havana  Lottery.  —  Its  Influence.  —  Hospitality  of  the  Cu- 
bans. —  About  Bonnets.  —  The  Creole  Lady's  Face.  —  Love  of 


viii 


CONTENTS. 


Flowers.  —  An  Atmospheric  Karcotic.  —  The  Treacherous 
Indian  Fig.  — ■  How  the  Cocoanut  is  propagated.  —  Cost  of 
Living  in  Cuba. — Spurious  Liquors.  —  A  Pleasant  Health 
Resort.  —  The  Cock-Pit.  —  Game-Birds.  —  Their  Manage- 
ment. —  A  Cuban  Cock-Fight.  —  Garden  of  the  World.  — 
About  Birds.  —  Stewed  Owl !  —  Slaughter  of  the  Innocents. 
—  The  Various  Fruits  200 


CHAPTER  XII. 

Traveling  by  Volante.  —  Want  of  Inland  Communication.  — 
Americans  Profitable  Customers.  —  The  Cruel  National  Game. 

—  The  Plaza  de  Toros.  —  Description  of  a  Bull-Fight.  —  The 
Infection  of  Cruelty.  —  The  Romans  and  Spaniards  com- 
pared.—  Cry  of  the  Spanish  Mob:  Bread  and  Bulls!"  — 
Women  at  the  Fight.  — The  Nobility  of  the  Island. —  The 
Monteros.  —  Ignorance  of  the  Common  People. —  Scenes  in 
the  Central  Market,  Havana.  —  Odd  Ideas  of  Cuban  Beggars. 

—  An  Original  Style  of  Dude.  —  A  Mendicant  Prince    .    .    .  219 


CHAPTER  XIIL 

Introduction  of  Sugar-Cane.  —  Sugar  Plantations.  —  Mode  of 
Manufacture.  —  Slaves  on  the  Plantations.  — African  Amuse- 
ments. —  The  Grinding  Season.  — The  Coffee  Plantations.  — 
A  Floral  Paradise.  —  Refugees  from  San  Domingo.  —  Interest- 
ing Experiments  with  a  Mimosa.  —  Three  Staple  Productions 
of  Cuba.  —  Raising  Coffee  and  Tobacco.  —  Best  Soils  for  the 
Tobacco.  —  Agricultural  Possibilities.  —  The  Cuban  Fire-Fly. 

—  A  Much-Dreaded  Insect.  —  The   Ceiba  Tree.  —  About 
Horses  and  Oxen  236 

CHAPTER  XIY. 

Consumption  of  Tobacco.  —  The  Delicious  Fruits  of  the  Tropics. 

—  Individual  Characteristics  of  Cuban  Fruits. — The  Royal 
Palm. —  The  Mulberry  Tree.  — Silk  Culture.  —  The  Island 
once  covered  by  Forests.  —  No  Poisonous  Reptiles.  —  The  Cu- 
ban Bloodhound.  —  Hotbed  of  African  Slavery.  —  Spain's  Dis- 
regard of  Solemn  Treaties. — The  Coolie  System  of  Slavery. 

—  Ah-Lee  draws  a  Prize.  —  Native  African  Races.  —  Negroes 
buying  their  Freedom.  —  Laws  favoring  the  Slaves.  —  Exam- 
ple of  San  Domingo.  —  General  Emancipation  260 


CONTENTS. 


ix 


CHAPTER  XV. 

PAGE 

Slave  Trade  with  Africa.  —  Where  the  Slavers  made  their  Land- 
ing.—  An  Early  Morning  Eide.  —  Slaves  marching  to  Daily 
Labor.  —  Fragrance  of  the  Early  Day.  —  Mist  upon  the  Waters. 

—  A  Slave  Ship.  —  A  Beautiful  but  Guilty  Brigantine.  —  A 
French  Cruiser.  —  Cunning  Seamanship.  —  A  Wild  Goose 
Chase.  —  A  Cuban  Posada.  —  Visit  to  a  Coffee  Estate.  —  Land- 
ing a  Slave  Cargo.  —  A  Sight  to  challenge  Sympathy  and  In- 
dignation. —  Half  Starved  Victims.  —  Destruction  of  the  Slave 
Ship  282 

CHAPTER  XVI. 

Antique  Appearance  of  Everything.  —  The  Yeomen  of  Cuba. 

—  A  Montero's  Home.  — Personal  Experience. — The  Soil  of 
the  Island.  —  Oppression  by  the  Government.  —  Spanish  Jus- 
tice in  Havana.  —  Tax  upon  the  Necessities  of  Life.  —  The 
Proposed  Treaty  with  Spain.  —  A  One-Sided  Proposition. — 
A  Much  Taxed  People.  —  Some  of  the  Items  of  Taxation.  — 
Fraud  and  Bankruptcy.  —  The  Boasted  Strength  of  Moro  Cas- 
tle. —  Destiny  of  Cuba.  —  A  Heavy  Annual  Cost  to  Spain.  — 
Political  Condition.  —  Pictures  of  Memory   .  300 


DUE  SOUTH. 


CHAPTER  I. 

Departure.  —  On  Board  Ship.  —  Arrival  at  Nassau.  •—  Capital  of  the 
Bahamas.  Climate.  —  Soil.  —  Fruits  and  Flowers.  —  Magic  Fer- 
tility. —  Colored  Population.  —  The  Blockade  Runners.  —  Popula- 
tion. —  Products.  —  A  Picturesque  Local  Scene.  —  Superstition. 

—  Fish  Story.— The  Silk-Cotton  Tree.  —  Remarkable  Vegetation. 

—  The  Sea  Gardens.  —  Marine  Animal  Life.  —  The  Bahama  Banks. 

—  Burial  at  Sea.  —  Venal  Officials.  —  Historical  Characters.  —  The 
Early  Buccaneers.  —  Diving  for  Drinking- Water. 

We  left  Boston  in  a  blustering  snow-storm  on  the 
morning  of  February  25th,  and  reached  New  York 
city  to  find  it  also  clothed  in  a  wintry  garb,  Broad- 
way being  lined  on  either  side  of  its  entire  length 
with  tall  piles  of  snow,  like  haycocks,  prepared  for 
carting  away  during  the  coming  night*  Next  morn- 
ing, when  we  drove  to  the  dock  to  take  passage  on 
board  the  steamship  Cienfuegos,  the  snow-mounds 
had  all  been  removed.  The  mail  steamer  sailed 
promptly  at  the  hour  assigned,  hauled  out  into  the 
stream  by  a  couple  of  noisy  little  tugs,  with  two-inch 
hawsers  made  fast  to  stem  and  stern.  Before  sunset 
the  pilot  left  the  ship,  which  was  then  headed  due 
south  for  Nassau,  N,  P»,  escorted  by  large  fields  of 
floating  ice,  here  and  there  decked  with  lazy  snow- 
white  sea-gulls.  The  sharp  northwest  wind,  though 
1 


2 


DUE  SOUTH, 


blustering  and  aggressive,  was  in  our  favor,  and  the 
ship  spread  all  her  artificial  wings  as  auxiliary  to  her 
natural  motor.  We  doubled  Cape  Hatteras  and  Cape 
Lookout  well  in  towards  the  shore,  sighting  on  the 
afternoon  of  the  fourth  day  the  Island  of  Abaco, 
largest  of  the  Bahama  Isles,  with  its  famous  Hole 
in  the  Wall  "  and  sponge-lined  shore.  The  woolen 
clothing  worn  when  we  came  on  board  ship  had  al- 
ready become  oppressive,  the  cabin  thermometer  in- 
dicating 72^  Fahrenheit.  With  nothing  to  engage 
the  eye  save  the  blue  sky  and  the  bluer  water,  the 
most  is  made  of  every  circumstance  at  sea,  and  even 
trivial  occurrences  become  notable.  The  playful  dol- 
phins went  through  their  aquatic  pantomime  for  our 
amusement.  Half  a  dozen  of  them  started  off  just 
ahead  of  the  cutwater,  and  raced  the  ship  for  two 
hours,  keeping  exactly  the  same  relative  distance 
ahead  without  any  apparent  effort.  Scores  of  oth- 
ers leaped  out  of  the  water  and  plunged  in  again  in 
graceful  curves,  as  though  they  enjoyed  the  sport. 
A  tiny  land  bird  flew  on  board,  and  was  chased  all 
over  the  ship  by  one  or  two  juveniles  until  caught, 
panting  and  trembling  with  the  unwonted  exertion: 
Presently  it  was  given  its  liberty,  partook  freely  of 
bread  crumbs  and  drank  of  fresh  water,  then  assumed 
a  perch  aloft,  where  it  carefully  dressed  its  feathers, 
and  after  thanking  its  entertainers  with  a  few  cheer- 
ful notes  it  extended  its  wings  and  launched  out  into 
space,  no  land  being  in  sight.  The  broken  main- 
mast of  a  ship,  floating,  with  considerable  top  hamper 
attached,  was  passed  within  a  cable's  length,  sugges- 
tive of  a  recent  wreck,  and  inducing  a  thousand  dreary 
surmises.  At  first  it  was  announced  as  the  sea  ser- 
pent, but  its  true  nature  was  soon  obvious.    At  mid- 


ARRIVAL  AT  NASSAU. 


3 


night,  Marcli  1st,  Nassau  light  hove  in  sight,  dimmed 
by  a  thin,  soft  haze,  which  hung  over  the  water,  and 
through  which  the  light,  by  some  law  of  refraction, 
seemed  to  be  coming  out  to  meet  the  ship.  Over- 
head all  was  bright,  —  almost  dazzling  with  unnum- 
bered stars  and  familiar  constellations,  like  silver 
spangles  on  a  background  of  blue  velvet.  We  an- 
chored off  the  island  an  hour  before  daylight,  the 
harbor  being  too  shallow  to  admit  the  ship.  A  for- 
bidding sand  bar  blocks  the  entrance,  inside  of  which 
the  water  is  but  fifteen  feet  deep.  Indeed,  Nassau 
would  have  no  harbor  at  all  were  it  not  that  nature 
has  kindly  placed  Hog  Island  in  the  form  of  a  break- 
water, just  off  the  town.  The  vibrating  hull  of  the 
Cienfuegos  was  once  more  at  rest ;  the  stout  heart- 
throbs, the  panting  and  trembling,  of  the  great  en- 
gine had  ceased ;  the  wheelhouse  and  decks  were  de- 
serted, and  one  was  fain  to  turn  in  below  for  a  brief 
nap  before  landing  on  this  the  most  populous  of  the 
Bahamas. 

The  island,  which  was  settled  by  Europeans  as 
early  as  1629,  embraces  nearly  a  hundred  square 
miles,  forming  an  oasis  in  the  desert  of  waters.  It  is 
sixteen  miles  long  and  about  one  half  as  wide,  con- 
taining fourteen  thousand  inhabitants,  more  or  less, 
who  can  hardly  be  designated  as  an  enterprising 
community.  On  first  landing,  everything  strikes  the 
visitor  as  being  peculiarly  foreign,  —  almost  unique. 
The  town  is  situated  on  the  northerly  front  of  the 
island,  extending  along  the  shore  for  a  couple  of 
miles,  and  back  to  a  cr@st  of  land  which  rises  to 
nearly  the  height  of  a  hundred  feet.  This  elevation 
is  crowned  by  the  residence  of  the  English  Governor- 
General,  in  front  of  which  may  be  seen  a  colossal  but 


4 


DUE  SOUTH. 


not  admirable  statue  of  Columbus.  The  town  boasts 
a  small  public  library,  a  museum,  theatre,  several 
small  churches,  a  prison,  a  hospital,  and  a  bank.  The 
government  maintains  one  company  of  infantry,  com- 
posed of  black  men,  officered  by  whites.  It  must  be 
admitted  that  they  present  a  fine  military  appearance 
when  on  parade.  Nassau  has  long  been  a  popular 
resort  for  invalids  who  seek  a  soft,  equable  climate, 
and  as  it  lies  between  the  warm  South  Atlantic  and 
the  Gulf  Stream  it  is  characterized  by  the  usual 
temperature  of  the  tropics.  There  seemed  to  be  a 
certain  enervating  influence  in  the  atmosphere,  under 
the  effects  of  which  the  habitues  of  the  place  were 
plainly  struck  with  a  spirit  of  indolence.  The  differ- 
ence between  those  just  arrived  and  the  regular 
guests  of  the  Victoria  Hotel,  in  this  respect,  could 
not  fail  to  be  observed.  The  languidly  oppressive 
warmth  imparts  a  certain  softness  to  manners,  a 
voluptuous  love  of  idleness,  and  a  glow  to  the  affec- 
tions which  are  experienced  with  less  force  at  the 
North.  Neither  snow  nor  frost  is  ever  encountered 
here,  and  yet  it  is  as  near  to  Boston  or  New  York  as 
is  the  city  of  Chicago.  The  temperature,  we  are  told, 
never  falls  below  64°  Fahrenheit,  nor  rises  above  82°, 
the  variations  rarely  exceeding  five  degrees  in  twenty- 
four  hours.  In  Florida  a  change  of  twenty  degrees 
is  not  unusual  within  the  period  of  a  single  day.  The 
thermometer  stood  at  73°  on  the  first  day  of  March, 
and  everything  was  bathed  in  soft  sunlight. 

It  is  somewhat  singular  that  an  island  like  New 
Providence,  which  is  practically  without  soil,  should 
be  so  remarkably  productive  in  its  vegetation.  It 
is  surrounded  by  low-lying  coral  reefs,  and  is  itself 
composed  of  coral  and  limestone.    These,  pulverized, 


FLORAL  BEAUTY. 


5 


actually  form  the  earth  out  of  which  spring  noble 
palm,  banana,  ceiba,  orange,  lemon,  tamarind,  al- 
mond, mahoganj^,  and  cocoanut  trees,  with  a  hundred 
and  one  other  varieties  of  fruits,  flowers,  and  woods, 
including  the  bread-fruit  tree,  that  natural  food  for 
indolent  natives  of  equatorial  regions.  Of  course  in 
such  a  soil  the  plough  is  unknown,  its  substitutes 
being  the  pickaxe  and  crowbar.  However,  science 
teaches  us  that  all  soils  are  but  broken  and  decomposed 
rock,  pulverized  hy  various  agencies  acting  through 
long  periods  of  time.  So  the  molten  lava  which  once 
poured  from  the  fiery  mouth  of  Vesuvius  has  become 
the  soil  of  thriving  vineyards,  which  produce  the 
priceless  Lachryma  Christi  wine.  This  transforma- 
tion is  not  accomplished  in  a  lifetime,  but  is  the 
result  of  ages  of  slow  disintegration. 

Among  other  flowering  trees,  some  strikingly  beau- 
tiful specimens  of  the  alligator-pear  in  full  bloom  were 
observed,  the  blossom  suggesting  the  passion-flower. 
While  our  favorite  garden  plants  at  the  North  are 
satisfied  to  bloom  upon  lowly  bushes,  at  the  South 
they  are  far  more  ambitious,  and  develop  into  tall 
trees,  though  sometimes  at  the  partial  expense  of 
their  fragrance.  The  air  w^as  full  of  sweet  perfume 
from  tlie  white  blossoms  of  the  shaddock,  contrasting 
with  the  deep  glossy  green  of  its  thick-set  leaves,  the 
spicy  pimento  and  cinnamon  trees  being  also  notice- 
able. With  all  this  charming  floral  effect  the  bird 
melody  which  greets  the  ear  in  Florida  was  wanting, 
though  it  would  seem  to  be  so  natural  an  adjunct 
to  the  surroundings.  Nature's  never-failing  rule  of 
compensation  is  manifested  here  :  all  the  attractions 
are  not  bestowed  upon  any  one  class  ;  brilliancy  of 
feathers  and  sweetness  of  song  do  not  go  together. 


6 


DUE  SOUTH. 


The  torrid  zone  endows  the  native  birds  with  brilliant 
plumage,  while  the  colder  North  gives  its  feathered 
tribes  the  winning  charm  of  melody. 

The  soil  of  these  Bahama  Islands,  composed  of  such 
unpromising  ingredients,  shows  in  its  prolific  yield 
how  much  vegetation  depends  for  its  sustenance  upon 
atmospheric  air,  especially  in  tropical  climes.  The 
landlord  of  the  Victoria  Hotel  told  us,  as  an  evidence 
of  the  fertility  of  the  soil,  that  radish  seeds  which  were 
planted  on  the  first  day  of  the  month  would  suffi- 
ciently mature  and  ripen  by  the  twenty-first  —  that 
is  in  three  weeks  —  for  use  upon  the  table  ;  and  also 
that  potatoes,  tomatoes,  cucumbers,  and  melons  were 
relatively  expeditious  in  ripening  here  after  planting. 
Our  mind  reverted  to  the  jugglers  of  Madras  and 
Bombay,  who  made  an  orange-tree  grow  from  the 
seed,  and  bear  fruit  before  our  very  eyes,  at  a  single 
sitting. 

The  luscious  pineapple,  zapota,  mango,  pomegran- 
ate, guava,  star-apple,  citron,  custard-apple,  mammee, 
and  other  fruits  abound.  The  profuseness  and  vari- 
ety of  beautiful  ferns  and  orchidaceous  plants  will 
also  be  sure  to  attract  the  attention  of  the  Northern 
visitor.  The  rocky  formation  of  the  soil  produces 
good  natural  roads,  so  that  a  long  drive  in  the  envi- 
rons of  Nassau  is  like  a  pleasure  excursion  over  a 
well-macadamized  thoroughfare.  We  were  told  of  a 
delightful  drive  of  fifteen  miles  in  length  which  fol- 
lows the  sea  beach  the  whole  distance,  but  did  not 
find  time  to  test  its  attractions,  though  strongly 
tempted  by  the  excellence  of  the  roads.  Here,  as 
in  other  tropical  regions,  each  month  has  its  special 
floral  display,  although  there  are  many,  and  indeed  a 
majority,  of  the  plants  which  continue  to  flower  all 


SUBURBS  OF  NASSAU. 


7 


the  year  round.  We  observed  that  the  stone  walls 
and  hedges  were  now  and  again  covered  for  short 
spaces  with  the  coral-vine,  whose  red  blossoms,  so 
pleasing  to  the  eye,  emit  no  odor.  The  yellow  jas- 
mine was  dazzlingly  conspicuous  everywhere,  and 
very  fragrant.  Red  and  white  roses,  various  species 
of  cacti,  and  tube-roses  bloomed  before  the  rude 
thatched  cabins  of  the  negroes  in  the  environs,  as 
well  as  in  the  tiny  front  gardens  of  the  whites  in  the 
streets  of  the  town  ;  while  red,  white,  and  pink  ole- 
anders grew  as  tall  as  trees,  and  flower  here  every 
month  in  the  year.  The  night-blooming  cereus 
abounds,  opening  just  at  sunset,  and  closing  again  at 
break  of  day.  The  outside  leaves  of  this  poetical 
flower  are  of  a  pale  green,  the  inner  ones  of  a  pure 
wax-like  white,  and  the  petals  light  yellow.  Com- 
plete, it  is  about  eight  inches  long,  and  from  twelve 
to  fifteen  in  circumference. 

Wliile  we  drove  through  the  suburbs,  slatternly, 
half-clothed  family  groups  of  negroes  watched  us  with 
curious  eyes,  and  on  the  road  aged  colored  men  and 
women  were  occasionally  met,  who  saluted  us  with 
grave  dignity.  No  one  seemed  to  be  at  work ;  sun- 
shine was  the  only  perceptible  thing  going  on,  ripen- 
ing the  fruits  and  vegetables  by  its  genial  rays, 
while  the  negioes  waited  for  the  harvest.  Like  the 
birds,  they  had  no  occasion  to  sow,  but  only  to  pluck 
and  to  eat.  There  was,  both  in  and  out  of  the  town, 
a  tumble-down,  mouldy  aspect  to  the  dwellings,  which 
seemed  to  be  singularly  neglected  and  permitted  to 
lapse  into  decay.  With  the  exception  of  the  town 
of  Nafseau,  and  its  immediate  environs.  New  Pro.^^ 
idence  is  nearly  all  water  and  wilderness ;  it 
some  circumscribed  lakes,  but  no  mountains,  rivers, 


8 


DUE  SOUTH. 


rivulets.  The  island  is  justly  famous  for  the  beauty 
and  variety  of  its  lovely  flowers.  It  is  true  that  the 
rose  is  not  quite  equal  in  color,  development,  and 
fragrance  to  ours  of  the  North ;  Nature  has  so  many 
indigenous  flowers  on  which  to  expend  her  liberality 
that  she  bestows  less  attention  upon  this,  the  love- 
liest of  them  all.  The  Cherokee  rose,  single-leafed, 
now  so  rare  with  us,  seems  here  to  have  found  a  con- 
genial foreign  home.  In  the  suburbs  of  Nassau  are 
many  attractive  flowers,  fostered  only  by  the  hand 
of  Nature.  Among  them  was  the  triangular  cactus, 
with  its  beautiful  yellow  blossom,  like  a  small  sun- 
flower, supported  by  a  deep  green  triangular  stem. 

The  pendulous  cactus  was  also  hanging  here  and 
there  on  walls  and  tree  trunks,  in  queer  little  jointed, 
pipe-stem  branches.  The  royal  palm,  that  king  of 
tropical  vegetation,  is  not  very  abundant  here,  but 
yet  sufficiently  so  to  characterize  tlie  place.  Its  roots 
resemble  those  of  asparagus,  and  are  innumerable. 
Another  peculiarity  of  the  palm  is  that  it  starts  a 
full-sized  trunk ;  tlierefore,  not  the  diameter,  but  the 
height,  determines  its  age,  which  is  recorded  by  an- 
nual concentric  rings  clearly  defined  upon  its  tall, 
straight  stem. 

During  the  late  civil  war  in  the  United  States, 
when  blockade  runners  made  this  place  a  port  of 
call  and  a  harbor  for  refitting,  it  was  by  English  con- 
nivance practically  a  Confederate  port.  The  officers 
and  sailors  expended  their  ill-gotten  wealth  with  the 
usual  lavishness  of  the  irresponsible,  the  people  of 
Nassau  reaping  thereby  a  fabulous  harvest  in  cash, 
is  was  quite  demoralizing  to  honest  industry,  and, 
might  be  expected,  a  serious  reaction  has  followed, 
egitimate  trade  and  industry  will  require  years 


BLOCKADE  RUNNERS, 


9 


before  they  can  reassert  themselves.  Sudden  and 
seeming  prosperity  is  aimost  sure  to  be  equally  transi- 
tory. We  were  told  that,  during  the  entire  period  in 
which  the  Confederates  resorted  here  under  the  open 
encouragement  and  protection  of  England,  the  town 
was  the  scene  of  the  most  shameful  drunken  orgies 
from  morning  until  night.  Lewdness  and  crime  were 
rampant.  Officers  played  pitch-penny  on  the  ve- 
randa of  the  Victoria  Hotel  with  gold  eagles,  and 
affiliated  openly  with  negresses.  The  evil  influence 
upon  all  concerned  was  inevitable,  and  its  poisonous 
effect  is  not  yet  obliterated. 

Three  quarters  of  the  present  population  are  ne- 
groes, but  of  course  all  trace  of  the  aborigines  has 
disappeared.  It  is  curious  and  interesting  to  know 
what  Columbus  thouglit  of  them.  He  wrote  to  his 
royal  mistress,  after  having  explored  these  Bahamas, 
as  follows  :  "  This  country  excels  all  others  as  far  as 
the  day  surpasses  the  night  in  splendor ;  the  natives 
love  their  neighbors  as  themselves  :  their  conversa- 
tion is  the  sweetest  imaginable,  and  their  faces  are 
always  smiling.  So  gentle  and  so  affectionate  are 
they  that  I  swear  to  your  highness  there  is  no  better 
people  in  the  world." 

The  negroes  are  mostly  engaged  in  cultivating 
patches  of  pineapples,  and  yams,  sweet  potatoes,  and 
other  vegetables ;  a  large  number  of  the  males  em- 
ploy themselves  also  in  fishing  and  gathering  sponges. 
It  will  be  remembered  that  from  this  locality  comes 
the  principal  supply  of  coarse  sponge  for  Europe 
and  America.  There  is  also  a  considerable  trade, 
carried  on  in  a  small  way,  in  fine  turtle-shell,  which 
is  polished  in  an  exquisite  manner,  and  manufactured 
by  the  natives  into  ornaments.    Though  the  P)ahama 


10 


DUE  SOUTH. 


sponges  are  not  equal  to  those  obtained  in  the  Medi- 
terranean, still  they  are  marketable,  and  Nassau 
exports  half  a  million  dollars'  worth  annually.  It  is 
a  curious  fact  that  sponges  can  be  propagated  by 
cuttings  taken  from  living  specimens,  which,  when 
attached  to  a  piece  of  board  and  sunk  in  the  sea,  will 
increase  and  multiply.  Thus  the  finest  Mediter- 
ranean specimens  may  be  successfully  transplanted 
to  the  coral  reefs  of  these  islands,  the  only  requisite 
to  their  sustenance  seeming  to  be  a  coralline  shore 
and  limestone  surroundings.  Another  important  in- 
dustry which  gives  employment  to  a  considerable 
number  of  the  inhabitants  is  the  canning  of  pine- 
apples, a  process  which  is  equivalent  to  preserving 
them  for  any  length  of  time.  One  firm  on  Bay 
Street,  as  we  were  informed,  canned  and  exported 
nearly  a  million  of  pines  in  one  season,  lately ;  and 
another,  engaged  in  the  fresh-fruit  trade,  shipped  to 
the  States  fifteen  cargoes  of  pines  in  one  year,  besides 
many  thousands  of  cocoanuts.  These  are  not  all 
raised  in  Nassau,  but  this  port  is  made  the  head- 
quarters for  collecting  and  disposing  of  the  fruit 
grown  upon  what  are  termed  the  out-islands,  as  well 
as  marketing  the  large  product  of  its  own  soil.  It  is 
but  a  short  drive  inland  to  the  extensive  pineapple 
fields,  where  the  handsome  fruit  may  be  seen  in  the 
several  stages  of  growth,  varying  according  to  the 
season  of  the  year.  If  intended  for  exportation, 
the  fruit  is  gathered  green  ;  if  for  canning  purposes, 
the  riper  it  is  the  better.  The  visitor  will  also  be 
impressed  by  the  beauty  and  grace  of  the  cocoanut 
trees,  their  pinnate  leaves  often  a  hundred  feet  from 
the  ground,  notwithstanding  the  bare  cylindrical 
stem  attains  a  thickness  of  only  two  feet. 


A  TROPICAL  TABLEAU. 


11 


The  Royal  Victoria  Hotel,  though  bearing  a  loyal 
name,  is  kept  by  an  American,  and  is  a  very  substan- 
tial, capacious  building,  composed  of  native  lime- 
stone, four  stories  high,  three  of  which  are  surrounded 
by  wide  piazzas,  which  afford  the  shade  so  necessary 
in  a  land  of  perpetual  summer.  The  native  stone  of 
which  the  island  is  composed  is  so  soft  when  first 
quarried  that  it  can  easily  be  cut  or  sawed  into  any 
shape  desired,  but  it  hardens  very  rapidly  after  ex- 
posure to  the  atmosphere.  The  hotel  will  accom- 
modate three  hundred  guests,  and  is  a  positive  neces- 
sity for  the  comfort  and  prosperity  of  the  place.  It 
was  built  and  is  owned  by  the  British  government, 
who  erected  it  some  twenty-five  years  since.  At  the 
time  of  our  arrival  there  was  gathered  under  the 
lofty  Moorish  portico  of  the  hotel  a  most  picturesque 
group  of  negroes,  of  both  sexes  and  of  all  ages,  their 
ebony  faces  forming  a  strong  contrast  to  the  back- 
ground of  well-whitewashed  walls.  Some  of  the 
women  were  dressed  in  neat  calico  gowns,  and  wore 
broad-brimmed  straw  hats  ;  some  were  in  rags,  hat- 
less,  shoeless,  and  barelegged  ;  some  had  high-col- 
ored kerchiefs  wound  turban-like  about  their  woolly- 
heads  ;  and  some  wore  scarlet  shawls,  the  sight  of 
which  would  have  driven  a  Spanish  bull  raving  mad. 
There  were  coquettish  mulatto  girls  with  bouquets  for 
sale,  and  fancy  flowers  wrought  of  shells ;  these  last 
of  most  exquisite  workmanship.  Specimens  of  this 
native  shell-work  were  sent  to  the  Vienna  Exposition, 
where  they  received  honorable  mention,  and  were 
afterwards  purchased  and  presented  to  the  Prince  of 
Wales.  Old  gray-haired  negroes,  with  snow-white 
beards  on  a  black  ground,  offered  fruits  in  great  vari- 
ety, —  zapotas,  mangoes,  pineapples,  and  grape-fruit. 


12 


DUE  SOUTH. 


Others  had  long  strings  of  sponges  for  sale,  wound 
round  their  shoulders  like  huge  snakes ;  some  of 
these  were  good,  but  many  were  utterly  useless.  No 
one  knows  this  better  than  the  cunning  negroes  them- 
selves, but  strangers,  only  touching  at  Nassau,  they 
do  not  expect  to  see  again,  and  there  is  proverbially 
cheating  in  all  trades  but  ours.  A  bright,  thrifty- 
looking  colored  woman  had  spread  out  her  striped 
shawl  upon  the  ground,  and  on  this  arrayed  a  really 
fine  collection  of  conch-shells  for  sale,  delicately  pol- 
ished, and  of  choice  shapes.  When  first  brouglit  to 
the  surface  by  the  divers  they  are  not  infrequently 
found  to  contain  pearls  imbedded  in  the  palatable 
and  nutritious  meat.  These  pearls  are  generally  of 
a  pinkish  hue,  and  greatly  prized  by  the  jewelers. 
Now  and  then  a  diver  will  realize  a  hundred  dollars 
for  one  of  them.  From  the  conch-shell  also  come 
the  best  shell  cameos.  A  smart  half-breed  offered 
canes  of  ebony,  lignum  vitse,  lance,  and  orange  wood, 
all  of  native  growth.  He  was  dressed  in  a  white 
linen  jacket,  pantaloons  to  match,  with  a  semi-military 
cap,  cocked  on  one  side  of  his  head,  —  quite  a  colored 
dude.  The  women  who  sell  native-made  baskets  are 
most  persistent,  but  if  you  purchase  of  them  make 
your  own  change,  for  they  are  apt  to  take  money 
away  for  this  purpose  and  to  forget  to  return. 
Negro  nature  is  frail,  characterized  at  Nassau  by 
theft  and  licentiousness,  but  great  crimes  are  rare. 
If  you  have  occasion  to  hire  a  boat  for  a  sail  in  the 
harbor,  be  sure  to  find  and  employ  "  Bushy,"  a  tall, 
intelligent  darkey,  the  best  boatman  and  stroke-oar 
in  Nassau. 

Bushy  showed  us  what  he  called  a  fish-whip,  made 
from  the  whipray,  a  fish  quite  new  to  us,  but  indige- 


FISHES  AT  NASSAU. 


13 


nous  to  these  waters.  With  a  body  shaped  like  a 
flounder,  it  has  a  tail  often  ten  feet  long,  tapering 
from  about  one  inch  in  thickness  at  the  butt  to  an 
eighth  of  an  inch  at  the  small  end.  When  dried  this 
resembles  whalebone,  and  makes  a  good  coach-whip. 
There  is  a  great  variety  of  fish  in  and  about  the 
Bahamas.  We  saw,  just  landed  at  Nassau,  a  jew- 
fish,  which  takes  the  same  place  here  that  the  halibut 
fills  at  the  North,  being  cut  into  steaks  and  fried  in 
a  similar  manner.  They  are  among  the  largest  of 
edible  fi-sh,  and  this  specimen  weighed  about  four 
hundred  pounds.  According  to  Bushy,  at  certain 
seasons  of  the  year  the  jew-fish  lies  dormant  upon 
the  sandy  bottom,  and  refuses  to  take  the  bait.  In 
these  transparent  waters  he  is  easily  seen  when  in 
this  condition,  and  the  native  fishermen  then  dive 
down  and  place  a  stout  hook  in  his  mouth  !  Though 
this  may  sound  like  a  fish  story,"  we  were  assured 
by  others  of  its  truth.  Bushy  undertook  to  give 
us  the  names  of  the  various  fishes  which  abound 
here,  but  the  long  list  of  them  and  his  peculiar 
pronunciation  drove  us  nearly  Avild.  Still  a  few 
are  remembered  ;  such  as  the  yellow-tailed  snapper, 
striped  snapper,  pork-fish,  angel-fish,  cat-fish,  hound- 
fish,  the  grouper,  sucking-fish,  and  so  on.  Both  liar- 
bor  and  deep  sea  fishing  afford  the  visitor  to  Nas- 
sau excellent  amusement,  and  many  sportsmen  go 
thither  annually  from  New  York  solely  for  its  en- 
joyment. 

The  colored  people  of  Nassau,  as  we  were  assured 
by  one  competent  to  speak  upon  the  subject,  form  a 
religious  community,  according  to  the  ordinary  accep- 
tation of  the  term.  They  are  very  fond  of  church- 
going,  and  of  singing  and  shouting  on  all  religious 


14 


DUE  SOUTH. 


occasions.  Nervously  emotional,  they  work  them- 
selves up  to  a  hysterical  condition  so  furious  as  to 
threaten  their  sanity,  but  having  naturally  so  little 
of  that  qualification,  they  are  pretty  safe.  No  people 
could  possibly  be  more  superstitious.  They  shut  up 
and  double  lock  the  doors  and  windows  of  their  cab- 
ins at  night  to  keep  out  evil  spirits.  There  are  regu- 
lar professional  man-witches  among  them,  persons  a 
little  shrewder  and  more  cunning  than  their  fellows. 
The  very  ignorant  believe  in  a  sort  of  fetichism,  so 
that  when  a  boat  starts  on  a  sponge-fishing  trip,  the 
obeah  man  is  called  upon  for  some  cooperation  and 
mysticism,  to  insure  a  successful  return  of  the  crew. 
The  sponge  fishermen  have  several  hundred  boats 
regularly  licensed,  and  measuring  on  an  average 
twenty  tons  each.  On  favorable  occasions  these 
men  lay  aside  their  legitimate  calling,  and  become 
for  the  time  being  wreckers,  an  occupation  which 
verges  only  too  closely  upon  piracy.  The  intricate 
navigation  of  these  waters,  dotted  by  hundreds  of 
small  reefs  and  islands,  and  which  can  be  traversed 
by  only  three  safe  channels,  has  furnished  in  former 
years  a  large  amount  of  shipwrecked  merchandise  to 
Nassau.  The  wrecking  business  at  best  is  extremely 
demoralizing,  unfitting  any  community  of  men  for 
legitimate  industry,  as  we  know  very  well  by  the 
experience  gained  on  our  own  Florida  shore.  Men 
who  have  cruised  fruitlessly  for  months  in  search  of  a 
profitable  wreck  will  sometimes  be  tempted  to  decoy 
a  ship  from  her  proper  course,  and  lead  her  upon  the 
rocks,  by  a  display  of  false  lights. 

In  front  of  the  Victoria  Hotel  are  some  noble  spe- 
cimens of  the  ceiba,  or  silk-cotton  tree,  as  it  is  called 
here,  the  finest  and  loftiest  we  have  seen  in  any 


REMARKABLE  TREES, 


15 


country.  These  trees,  naturally  slow  growers,  must 
be  over  a  century  in  age,  and  afford,  by  their  wide- 
spread branches,  a  shade  equally  graceful  and  grate- 
ful. Like  the  india-rubber  trees  of  Asia,  these  ceibas 
have  at  least  one  half  of  their  anaconda-like  roots 
exposed  upon  the  surface  of  the  ground,  dividing  the 
lower  portion  of  the  stem  into  supporting  buttresses, 
a  curious  piece  of  finesse  on  the  part  of  nature  to 
overcome  the  disadvantage  of  insufficient  soil.  The 
tree  bears  annually  a  large  seed-pod,  packed  with  cot- 
ton of  a  soft,  silky  texture,  and  hence  its  name.  It  is, 
however,  suitable  neither  for  timber  nor  fuel,  and  the 
small  product  of  cotton  is  seldom  if  ever  gathered. 
The  islanders  are  proud  of  a  single  specimen  of  the 
banyan  tree  of  considerable  size,  which  they  show  to 
all  visitors;  but  it  cannot  be  indigenous  —  it  must 
have  been  brought  in  its  youth  from  Asia.  There  is, 
however,  in  these  West  Indian  isles,  the  black  man- 
grove, with  very  similar  habit  to  the  banyan.  The 
limbs  spread  to  such  an  extent  from  the  trunk  as  to 
require  support  to  prevent  them  from  breaking  off  or 
bending  to  the  ground  by  their  own  weight;  but  to 
obviate  this,  nature  has  endowed  the  tree  with  a  pe- 
culiar growth.  When  the  branches  have  become  so 
heavy  as  to  be  no  longer  able  to  support  themselves, 
they  send  forth  from  the  under  side  sprigs  which, 
rapidly  descending  to  the  ground,  take  root  like  the 
banyan,  and  become  supporting  columns  to  the  heavy 
branches  above.  So  the  writer  has  seen  in  Hindo- 
stan  a  vine  wdiich  grew,  almost  leafless,  closely  en- 
twined around  the  trees  to  the  very  top,  whence  it 
descended,  took  fresh  root,  and  ascended  the  nearest 
adjoining  tree,  until  it  had  gone  on  binding  an  entire 
grove  in  a  ligneous  rope.    Long  tendrils  of  the  love- 


16 


DUE  SOUTH. 


vine,  that  curious  aerial  creeper,  which  feeds  on  air 
iilon(",  were  seen  hanging  across  some  of  the  low 
branches  of  the  Nassau  trees,  and  we  were  told  that 
t:ie  plant  will  grow  equally  well  if  hung  upon  a  nail 
indoors.  Emblematic  of  true  affection,  it  clings,  like 
Japanese  ivy,  tenaciously  to  the  object  it  fixes  upon. 
One  specimen  was  shown  to  us  which  had  developed 
to  the  size  of  the  human  hand  from  a  single  leaf  care- 
lessly pinned  by  a  guest  to  one  of  the  chamber  walls 
of  the  hotel. 

There  are  said  to  be  six  hundred  of  the  Baliama 
islands,  large  and  small,  of  which  Nassau  is  the  capi- 
tal, and  there,  as  already  intimated,  the  English  Gov- 
ernor-General resides.  This  numerical  calcnlati(m  is 
undoubtedly  correct ;  many  are  mere  rocky  islets, 
and  not  more  than  twenty  have  fixed  inhabitants. 
Is  there  anything  more  wonderful  in  nature  than 
that  these  hundreds  of  isles  should  have  been  built 
up  from  the  bottom  of  the  sea  by  insects  so  small 
as  to  be  microscopic?  All  lie  north  of  Cuba  and 
St.  Domingo,  just  opposite  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  easily 
accessible  from  our  own  shores  by  a  short  and  pleas- 
ant sea- voyage  of  three  or  four  days.  They  are 
especially  inviting  to  those  persons  who  have  occa- 
sion to  avoid  the  rigor  of  Northern  winters.  Peo[)le 
threatened  with  consumption  seek  Nassau  on  sani- 
tary principles,  and  yet  it  was  found  upon  inquiry 
that  many  natives  die  of  that  insidious  disease,  which 
rapidly  runs  its  career  when  it  is  first  developed  in  a 
tropical  climate.  To  the  author  it  would  seem  that 
consumptives  might  find  resorts  better  adapted  to 
tlie  recovery  of  their  health.  Intermittent  fever, 
also,  is  not  unknown  at  Nassau. 

The  sea  gardens,  as  the^^  are  called,  situated  just 


•  SEA  GARDENS. 


17 


off  the  shores  of  the  island,  are  well  worth  a  visit ; 
where,  by  means  of  a  simple  instrument  of  wood  and 
glass,  one  is  enabled  to  look  many  fathoms  below  the. 
surface  of  the  water,  which  is  here  so  remarkable  for 
its  transparency.  These  water  glasses  are  all  of  home 
manufacture,  easily  improvised,  being  formed  of  a 
small  wooden  box  three  or  four  inches  square,  open 
at  the  top,  arrd  having  a  water-tight  glass  bottom. 
With  the  glass  portion  slightly  submerged,  one  is 
enabled  to  see  distinctly  the  beautiful  coral  reefs, 
Avith  their  marvelous  surroundings.  There  are  dis- 
played tiny  caves  and  grottoes  of  white  coral  of  great 
delicacy  and  variety,  star-fishes,  sea-urchins,  growing 
sponges,  sea-fans,  and  gaudy-colored  tropical  fishes, 
including  the  humming-bird-fish,  and  others  like  but- 
terflies with  mottled  fins  and  scales,  and  that  little 
oddity  the  rainbow-fish.  The  prevailing  color  of  this 
attractive  creature  is  dark  green,  but  the  tinted  mar- 
gins of  its  scales  so  reflect  the  light  as  to  show  all 
the  colors  of  the  rainbow,  and  hence  its  name. 
When  bottled  in  alcohol,  these  fairy-like  denizens  of 
the  deep  lose  their  bi'illianc}^  which  they  exhibit 
only  in  their  native  element.  This  unique  display  is 
greatly  enhanced  in  beauty  by  the  clearness  of  the 
Bahama  waters,  and  the  reflected  light  from  the 
snow-white  sandy  bottom,  dotted  here  and  there  by 
curious  and  delicate  shells  of  opalescent  lustre.  One 
longs  to  descend  among  these  coral  bowers,  —  these 
mermaid-gardens,  —  and  pluck  of  the  submarine  flora 
in  its  purple,  yellow,  and  scarlet  freshness. 

It  will  be  remembered  that  Columbus  wrote  home 
to  his  royal  patrons  that  the  fish  which  abounded  in  the 
seas  partook  of  the  same  novelty  which  characterized 
everything  else  in  the  New  World.    This  was  about 

2 


18 


DUE  SOUTH. 


four  hundred  years  ago,  before  the  great  Genoese 
had  discovered  Cuba.  "  The  fish,"  as  he  wrote, 
"  rivaled  the  birds  in  tropical  brilliancy  of  color,  the 
scales  of  some  of  theui  glancing  back  the  rays  of 
light  like  precious  stones,  as  they  sported  about  the 
ships  and  flashed  gleams  of  gold  and  silver  through 
the  clear  water." 

The  surface  life  of  these  translucent  waters  is  also 
extremely  interesting.  Here  the  floating  jelly-fish, 
called,  from  its  phosphorescence,  the  glow-worm  of 
the  sea,  is  observed  in  great  variety,  sheltering  little 
colonies  of  young  fishes  within  its  tentacles,  which 
rush  forth  for  a  moment  to  capture  some  passing 
mite,  and  as  quickly  return  again  to  their  shelter. 
One  takes  up  a  handful  of  the  floating  gulf -weed  and 
finds,  within  the  pale  yellow  leaves  and  berries,  tiny 
pipe-fish,  sea-horses,  and  the  little  nest-building  an- 
tennarius,  thus  forming  a  buoyant  home  for  parasites, 
crabs,  and  mollusks,  itself  a  sort  of  mistletoe  of  the 
ocean.  The  young  of  the  mackerel  and  the  herring 
glance  all  about  just  beneath  the  surface  near  the 
shore,  like  myriad  pieces  of  silver.  Now  and  again 
that  particolored  formation  of  marine  life,  the  Por- 
tuguese man-of-war,  is  observed,  its  long  ventral  fins 
spread  out  like  human  fingers  to  steady  it  upon  the 
surface  of  the  water.  Verily,  the  German  scientist 
who  snys  there  is  more  of  animal  life  beneath  the 
surface  of  the  sea  than  above  it  cannot  be  far  amiss. 
This  seems  to  be  the  more  reasonable  when  we  con- 
sider the  relative  proportions  of  land  and  water. 
The  whole  surface  of  the  globe  is  supposed  to  have 
an  area  of  about  two  hundred  million  square  miles. 
Of  these  only  about  fifty  millions  are  dry  land. 
Within  the  harbor  of  Nassau  the  divisions  of  shoal 


BURIAL  AT  SEA. 


19 


and  deep  water  presented  most  singular  and  clearly 
defined  lines  of  color,  azure,  purple,  and  orange-leaf 
gi^een,  —  so  marked  as  to  be  visible  half  a  mile  away. 
All  was  beneath  a  sky  so  deeply  and  serenely  blue 
as  constantly  to  recall  the  arching  heavens  of  middle 
India. 

The  Bahama  Banks  is  a  familiar  expression  to 
most  of  us,  but  perhaps  few  clearly  understand  the 
significance  of  the  term,  which  is  applied  to  a  remark- 
able plateau  at  the  western  extremity  of  the  archi- 
pelago, occupying  a  space  between  two  and  three 
hundred  miles  long,  and  about  one  third  as  wide. 
These  banks,  as  they  are  called,  rise  almost  perpen- 
dicularly from  an  unfathomable  depth  of  water,  and 
are  of  coral  formation.  In  sailing  over  them  the 
bottom  is  distinctly  seen  from  the  ship's  deck,  the 
depth  of  water  being  almost  uniformly  forty  to  fifty 
feet.  Some  years  since,  when  the  author  was  crossing 
these  banks  in  a  sailing  ship,  a  death  occurred  among 
the  foremast  hands,  and  the  usual  sea  burial  followed. 
The  corpse  was  sewn  up  in  a  hammock,  with  iron 
weights  at  the  feet,  the  more  readily  to  sink  it. 
After  reading  the  burial  service  the  body  was 
launched  into  the  sea  from  a  grating  rigged  out  of  a 
gangway  amidship.  The  waters  were  perfectly  calm, 
and  the  barque  had  but  little  headway.  Indeed,  we 
lay  almost  as  still  as  though  anchored,  so  that  the 
body  was  seen  to  descend  slowly  alongside  until  it 
reached  the  calcareous,  sandy  bottom,  where  it  as- 
sumed an  upright  and  strangely  lifelike  position,  as 
though  standing  upon  its  feet.  An  ominous  silence 
reigned  among  the  watching  crew,  and  it  was  a 
decided  relief  to  all  hands  when  a  northerly  wind 
sprang  up,  filling  the  canvas  and  giving  the  vessel 
steerage  way. 


20 


DUE  SOUTH. 


So  many  years  have  passed  since  the  occurrence 
of  the  scene  just  related  that  we  may  give  its  sequel 
without  impropriety,  though,  at  the  same  time,  we 
expose  the  venal  character  of  Spanish  ofl&cials.  The 
man  we  buried  on  the  Bahama  Banks  had  died  of 
small-pox,  though  no  other  person  on  board  showed 
any  symptoms  of  the  disease.  On  entering  the  har- 
bor of  Havana,  three  days  later,  we  had  been  hailed 
from  Moro  Castle  and  had  returned  the  usual  answer. 
A  couple  of  doubloons  in  gold  mad-e  the  boarding 
officer  conveniently  blind,  and  a  similar  fee  thrust 
quietly  into  the  doctor's  hand  insured  a  "  clean  bill 
of  health,"  under  which  we  were  permitted  to  land ! 
The  alternative  was  twenty-one  days'  quarantine. 

Fort  Montague,  mounting  four  rusty  guns,  ''with 
ne'er  a  touch-hole  to  any  on  'em,"  as  Bushy  informed 
us,  stands  upon  a  projecting  point  about  a  mile  from 
the  town  of  Nassau,  the  road  thither  forming  a  de- 
lightful evening  promenade,  or  drive.  The  fort  is 
old,  crumbling,  and  time-worn,  but  was  once  occupied 
by  the  buccaneers  as  a  most  important  stronghold 
commanding  the  narrow  channel.  These  sea-robbers 
imposed  a  heavy  tax  upon  all  shipping  passing  this 
way,  and  for  many  years  realized  a  large  income  from 
this  source.  It  was  only  piracy  in  another  form. 
Most  vessels  found  it  cheaper  to  pay  than  to  fight. 
When  the  notorious  Black  Beard  had  his  head- 
quarters at  Nassau,  he  sought  no  such  pretext,  but 
preyed  upon  all  commerce  alike,  provided  the  vessels 
were  not  too  Avell  armed  to  be  captured.  This 
notorious  pirate  had  an  innate  love  for  cruelty,  and 
often  tortured  his  captives  without  any  apparent 
purpose,  after  the  fashion  of  our  Western  Indians. 
When  the  English  lashed  the  mutineers  of  Delhi  and 


NOTABLE  CHARACTERS, 


21 


Cawnpore  to  the  muzzles  of  their  cannon  and  blew 
them  to  pieces,  they  were  enacting  no  new  tragedy; 
legend  and  history  tell  us  that  Black  Beard,  the 
pirate  of  the  Windward  Passage,  set  them  that 
example  many  years  before.  His  rule  was  to  mur- 
der all  prisoners  who  would  not  join  his  ship,  and 
those  whom  he  took  fighting,  that  is,  with  arms  in 
their  hands,  were  subjected  to  torture,  one  form  of 
which  was  that  of  lashing  captives  to  the  cannon's 
mouth  and  applying  the  match.  Fort  Montague  is 
not  occupied  by  even  a  corporal's  guard  to-day,  and 
is  of  no  efficiency  whatever  ngainst  modern  gunnery. 
The  reader  will  thus  observe  that  the  principal  busi- 
ness which  has  engaged  Nassau  heretofore  has  been 
wrecking,  buccaneering,  privateering,  and  blockade 
running. 

Some  noted  characters  have  found  an  asylum  here, 
first  and  last.  After  Lord  Dunmore  left  Virginia  he 
sought  official  position  and  made  a  home  on  the  isl- 
and. He  was  appointed  governor,  and  some  of  the 
buildings  erected  by  him  are  still  pointed  out  to  the 
visitor,  especially  that  known  as  the  Old  Fort,  just 
back  of  the  Victoria  Hotel,  crowning  the  height. 
His  summer  seat,  known  as  the  Hermitage,  is  a  quaint 
old  place,  still  in  fair  condition,  and  surrounded  by 
oaks  and  cocoanut  trees,  near  the  sea.  Such  matters 
do  not  often  get  into  history,  but  legend  tells  us  that 
some  strange  orgies  took  place  at  the  Hermitage, 
where  the  play  was  for  heavy  stakes,  and  the  drinking 
was  of  a  similar  excessive  character. 

Another  well-know^n  individual  who  sought  to 
make  a  home  here,  and  also  to  escape  from  all  for- 
mer associations,  was  the  notorious  Blennerhasset,  a 
name  familiar  in  connection  with  Aaron  Burr.  After 


22 


DUE  SOUTH. 


his  trial,  it  will  be  remembered  that  he  suddenly 
disappeared,  and  was  heard  of  no  more.  He  left  his 
country  for  his  country's  good,  changing  his  name  to 
that  of  Carr.  His  objective  point  was  Nassau  ;  there 
his  undoubted  talent  and  legal  ability  were  duly  rec- 
ognized and  he  was  appointed  government  attorney, 
officiating  in  that  capacity  for  a  number  of  years. 
Having  deserted  his  first  wife,  he  found  another  to 
console  him  upon  the  island.  At  last  wife  number 
one  appeared  upon  the  island.  She  had  discovered 
his  hiding-place,  and  a  domestic  war  ensued.  Wife 
number  two  carried  the  day  and  the  rightful  spouse 
was  sent  away  and  paid  an  annuity  to  keep  away. 
The  pretended  Mr.  Carr  is  said  to  have  finally  lapsed 
into  habits  of  excessive  intemperance,  and  to  have 
found  a  stranger's  grave  on  the  island. 

Much  of  the  drinking  water,  and  certainly  the  best 
in  use  at  Nassau,  as  well  as  on  some  of  the  neighbor- 
ing islands,  is  procured  in  a  remarkable,  though  very 
simple  manner,  from  the  sea.  Not  far  from  shore, 
on  the  coral  reefs,  there  are  never-failing  fresh  water 
springs,  bubbling  up  from  the  bottom  through  the 
salt  water  with  such  force  as  clearly  to  indicate  their 
locality.  Over  these  ocean  springs  the  people  place 
sunken  barrels  filled  with  sand,  one  above  another, 
the  bottoms  and  tops  being  displaced.  The  fresh 
water  is  thus  conducted  to  the  surface  through  the' 
colutnn  of  sand,  which  forms  a  perfect  filterer.  Such 
a  crude  arrangement  is  only  temporary,  liable  to  be 
displaced  by  any  severe  storm  which  should  agitate 
the  surrounding  waters.  If  destroyed  in  the  hurri- 
cane season,  these  structures  are  not  renewed  until 
settled  weather.  In  so  small  and  low  lying  an  island 
as  that  of  Nassau,  it  is  very  plain  that  this  crystal 


SUBMERGED  SPRINGS. 


23 


liquid,  pure  and  tasteless,  cannot  come  from  any  rain- 
fall upon  the  soil,  and  its  existence,  therefore,  suggests 
a  problem,  the  solving  of  which  we  submit  to  the  sci- 
entists. 

On  the  arid  shores  of  the  Persian  Gulf,  where  rain 
so  seldom  falls,  and  where  there  are  no  rills  to  refresh 
the  parched  soil,  fresh  water  is  also  obtained  from 
submerged  springs  beneath  the  salt  water.  Here  it 
is  brought  to  the  surface  by  divers,  who  descend  with 
a  leather  bag,  the  mouth  of  which  being  opened  over 
the  bubbling  spring  is  quickly  filled  and  closed  again, 
being  drawn  to  the  surface  by  those  who  are  left  there 
to  assist  the  diver,  who  hastens  upward  for  air.  In  de- 
scending his  feet  are  weighted  with  stones,  w^hich  be- 
ing cast  off  at  the  proper  moment,  he  naturally  rises 
at  once  to  the  surface.  This  operation  is  repeated 
until  a  sufficient  quantity  of  fresh  water  is  procured. 
There  is  no  mystery,  however,  as  to  the  source  of 
these  springs.  The  rain  first  falls  on  the  distant 
mountains,  and  finding  its  way  downward  through  the 
fissures  of  rocky  ledges,  pursues  its  course  until  it 
gushes  forth  in  the  bed  of  the  gulf. 


CHAPTER  II. 


Among  the  Islands.  —  San  Salvador. —  A  Glimpse  at  the  Stars.  — Hay- 
ti.  —  The  Gulf  Stream.  —  The  Caribbean  Sea.  —  Latitude  and  Lon- 
gitude. —  The  Southern  Coast  of  Cuba.  —  A  Famous  Old  Fortress. 
—  Fate  of  Political  Prisoners.  —  The  Oldest  City  in  Cuba.  —  The 
Aborigines.  —  Cuban  Cathedrals.  —  Drinking  Saloons.  —  Dogs, 
Horses,  and  Coolies.  —  Scenes  in  Santiago  de  Cuba.  — Devoured  by 
Sharks.  —  Lying  at  Anchor.  —  Wreck  of  a  Historic  Ship.  —  Cuban 
Circulating  Medium.  —  Tropical  Temperature. 

After  leaving  Nassau  we  stood  northp/ard  for  half 
a  day  in  order  to  get  a  safe  and  proper  channel  out 
of  the  crooked  Bahamas,  where  there  is  more  of  shoal 
than  of  navigable  waters,  leaving  a  score  of  small 
islands  behind  us  inhabited  only  by  turtles,  flamingoes, 
and  sea  birds.  But  we  were  soon  steaming  due 
south  again  towards  our  objective  point,  the  island  of 
Cuba,  five  hundred  miles  away.  San  Salvador  was 
sighted  on  our  starboard  bow,  the  spot  where  Colum- 
bus first  landed  in  the  New  World,  though  even  this 
fact  has  not  escaped  the  specious  arguments  of  the 
iconoclasts.  Nevertheless,  we  gazed  upon  it  with  rev- 
erent credulity.  It  will  be  found  laid  down  on  most 
English  maps  as  Cat  Island,  and  is  now  the  home  of 
two  or  three  thousand  colored  people.  San  Salvador 
is  nearly  as  large  as  New  Providence,  and  is  said  to 
claim  some  special  advantages  over  that  island  in  the 
quality  of  its  fruits.  It  is  claimed  that  the  oranges 
grown  here  are  the  sweetest  and  best  in  the  world, 
the  same  excellence  being  attributed  to  its  abundant 
yield  of  pineapples  and  other  tropical  fruits. 


AMONG  THE  ISLANDS. 


25 


There  are  so  many  of  these  small  islands  in  the 
Bahama  group  that  the  geographers  may  be  excused 
for  the  heterogeneous  manner  in  which  they  have 
placed  them  on  the  common  maps.  To  find  their 
true  and  relative  position  one  must  consult  the  sail- 
ing-charts, where  absolute  correctness  is  supposed  to 
be  found,  a  prime  necessity  in  such  intricate  naviga- 
tion. The  total  population  of  the  Bahamas  has  been 
ascertained,  by  census,  to  be  a  fraction  less  than  forty 
thousand. 

The  voyager  in  these  latitudes  is  constantly  saluted 
by  gentle  breezes  impregnated  with  tropical  fragrance, 
intensified  in  effect  by  the  distant  view  of  cocoanut, 
palmetto,  and  banana  trees,  clothing  the  islands  and 
growing  down  to  the  water's  very  edge.  As  we  glide 
along,  gazing  shoreward,  now  and  again  little  groups 
of  swallows  seem  to  be  flitting  only  a  few  feet  above 
the  water  for  a  considerable  distance,  and  then  sud- 
denly disappearing  beneath  the  waves.  These  are 
flying-fish  enjoying  an  air  bath,  either  in  frolic  or  in 
fear;  pursued,  maybe,  by  some  aqueous  enemy,  to  es- 
cape from  whom  they  essay  these  aerial  flights.  The 
numerous  islands,  very  many  of  which  are  uninhab- 
ited, have  yet  their  recorded  names,  more  or  less 
characteristic,  such  as  Rum  Key,  Turk's  Island,  —  fa- 
mous for  the  export  of  salt,  —  Bird  Rock,  Fortune 
Island,  Great  and  Little  Inagua,  Crooked  Island,  and 
so  on,  all  more  or  less  noted  for  the  disastrous  wrecks 
which  have  occurred  on  their  low  coralline  shores. 
Our  Northern  cities  are  largely  dependent  upon  the 
Bahamas  for  their  early  annual  supplies  of  pineap- 
ples, cocoanuts,  oranges,  bananas,  and  some  vegeta- 
bles, in  which  they  are  all  more  or  less  prolific.  Here 
also  is  the  harvest  field  of  the  conchologist,  the  beaches 


26 


DUE  SOUTH, 


and  coral  reefs  affording  an  abundant  supply  of  ex- 
quisitely colored  shells,  of  all  imaginable  shapes,  in- 
cluding the  large  and  valuable  conch-shell,  of  which 
many  thousand  dollars'  worth  are  annually  exported, 
the  contents  first  serving  the  divers  for  food. 

It  was  interesting  to  remain  on  deck  at  night  and 
watch  the  heavens,  as  we  glided  silently  through  the 
phosphorescent  sea.  Was  it  possible  the  grand  lumi- 
nary, which  rendered  objects  so  plain  that  one  could 
almost  read  fine  print  with  no  other  help,  shone 
solely  by  borrowed  light?  We  all  know  it  to  be  so, 
and  also  that  Venus,  Mars,  Jupiter,  and  Saturn  shine 
in  a  similar  manner  with  light  reflected  from  the  sun. 
It  was  curious  to  adjust  the  telescope  and  bring  the 
starry  system  nearer  to  the  vision.  If  we  direct  our 
gaze  upon  a  planet  we  find  its  disk  sharply  defined  ; 
change  the  direction  and  let  it  rest  upon  a  star,  and 
we  have  only  a  point  of  light,  more  or  less  brilliant. 
The  glass  reveals  to  us  the  fact  that  the  star-dust 
which  we  call  the  Milky  Way  is  an  aggregation  of 
innumerable  single  suns.  Sweeping  the  arching  blue 
with  the  telescope,  we  find  some  stars  are  golden, 
some  green,  others  purple,  many  silvery- white,  and 
some  are  twins.  Probably  there  is  no  such  thing  as 
stars  of  the  first  and  second  magnitude,  as  the  com- 
mon expression  names  them.  It  is  most  likely  only  a 
question  of  distance  which  regulates  the  brightness 
to  our  vision.  •  Science  reduces  the  distances  of  heav- 
enly bodies  from  our  earth  to  figures,  but  they  are  so 
immense  as  to  be  simply  bewildering.  At  the  North 
the  moon  is  silvery,  but  in  tropical  skies  at  niglit  it 
becomes  golden,  glowing,  and  luxurious  in  its  splendor, 
never  pale  and  wan  as  it  seems  with  us. 

When  the  lonely  lighthouse  which  marks  Cape 


HAYTL 


27 


May  si,  at  the  easterly  point  of  Cuba,  hove  in  sight  on 
the  starboard  bow,  the  dim  form  of  the  mountains 
of  Hayti  was  also  visible  on  the  opposite  horizon.  A 
subterranean  connection  is  believed  to  exist  between 
the  mountain  ranges  of  the  two  islands. 

When  the  outline  of  the  Haytian  mountains  was 
in  view,  it  was  very  natural  to  express  a  wish  to  visit 
the  island  at  some  convenient  time.  This  led  to  some 
intelligent  and  interesting  remarks  from  a  compagnon 
de  voyage,  who  had  resided  for  two  years  at  Port-au- 
Prince,  the  capital.  "  Uidess  you  are  compelled  to 
land  there,"  said  he,  I  advise  you  to  avoid  Hayti." 
He  fully  confirmed  the  reports  of  its  barbarous  con- 
dition, and  declared  it  to  be  in  a  rapid  decadence,  as 
regarded  every  desirable  element  of  civilization.  In 
the  country,  a  short  distance  from  either  Gonaives, 
Jacmel,  or  Port-au-Prince,  where  the  mass  of  the 
negro  population  live,  Voudou  worship  and  canni- 
balism are  quite  common  at  the  present  time.  The 
influence  of  the  Voudou  priests  is  so  much  feared 
by  the  government  that  the  horrible  practice  is  little 
interfered  with.  When  the  officials  are  forced  to 
take  cognizance  of  the  crime,  the  lightest  possible 
punishment  is  imposed  upon  the  convicted  parties. 
The  island  of  San  Domingo  is  about  half  the  size 
of  Cuba,  Hayti  occupying  one  third  of  the  western 
portion,  the  rest  of  the  territory  belonging  to  the 
republic  of  San  Domingo.  "  As  to  Port-au-Prince," 
said  our  informant,  it  is  the  dirtiest  place  I  have 
ever  seen  in  any  part  of  the  world."  Nevertheless, 
the  historic  interest  clustering  about  the  island  is 
very  great.  It  was  the  seat  of  the  first  Spanish  colony 
founded  in  the  New  World.  Its  soil  has  been  bathed 
in  the  blood  of  Europeans  as  well  as  of  its  aborig- 


28 


DUE  SOUTH. 


inal  inhabitants.  For  three  hundred  years  it  was  tlie 
arena  of  fierce  struggles  between  the  French,  Spaniards, 
and  English,  passing  alternately  under  the  dominion 
of  each  of  these  powers,  until  finally,  torn  by  insurrec- 
tion and  civil  war,  in  1804  it  achieved  its  indepen- 
dence. The  city  of  San  Domingo,  capital  of  the 
republic,  is  the  oldest  existing  settlement  by  white 
men  in  the  New  World,  having  been  founded  in  1494 
by  Bartholomew  Columbus.  It  contains  to-day  a  lit- 
tle less  than  seven  thousand  inhabitants. 

We  gave  Cape  May  si  a  wide  berth,  as  a  dangerous 
reef  makes  out  from  the  land,  eastward,  for  a  mile  or 
more.  The  fixed  light  at  this  point  is  a  hundred 
and  thirty  feet  above  sea  level,  and  is  visible  nearly 
twenty  miles  off  shore. 

We  were  running  through  the  Windward  Passage, 
as  it  was  called  by  the  early  navigators,  and  whence 
one  branch  of  the  Gulf  Stream  finds  its  way  north- 
ward. The  Gulf  Stream !  Who  can  explain  the 
mystery  of  its  motive  power ;  what  keeps  its  tepid 
waters  in  a  course  of  thousands  of  miles  from  mingling 
with  the  rest  of  the  sea  ;  whence  does  it  come?  The 
accepted  theories  are  familiar  enough,  but  we  do  not 
believe  them.  Maury  says  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  is  its 
fountain,  and  its  mouth  is  the  Arctic  Sea.  The 
maps  make  the  eastern  shore  of  Cuba  terminate  as 
sharply  as  a  needle's  point,  but  it  proved  to  be  very 
blunt  in  reality,  as  it  forms  the  gateway  to  the  Carib- 
bean Sea,  where  the  irregular  coast  line  runs  due 
north  and  south  for  the  distance  of  many  leagues.  It 
is  a  low,  rocky  shore  for  the  most  part,  but  rises 
gradually  as  it  recedes  inland,  until  it  assumes  the 
form  of  hills  so  lofty  as  to  merit  the  designation  of 
mountains. 


SOUTHERN  COAST  OF  CUBA,  29 

There  was  on  board  of  our  ship  an  intelligent  resi- 
dent of  Santiago,  who  was  enthusiastic  in  his  descrip- 
tion of  the  plains  and  valleys  lying  beyond  the  hills 
which  stood  so  prominently  on  the  coast,  —  hills  prob- 
ably older  than  any  tongue  in  which  we  could  de- 
scribe them.  The  Scriptural  Garden  of  Eden  has 
absolutely  been  placed  here  by  supposition  on  the 
part  of  traveled  people.  The  temperature  is  simply 
perfect,  if  we  are  to  believe  our  informant ;  the  veg- 
etation is  of  a  primitive  delicacy  and  beauty  un- 
equaled  elsewhere  ;  the  fruits  are  fabulously  abundant 
and  of  the  most  perfect  flavor ;  the  water  bubbles 
forth  from  springs  of  crystal  purity,  and  the  flora  is 
so  lovely  as  to  inspire  the  most  indifferent  beholder 
with  delight.  "  It  is  called  the  Garden  of  Cuba," 
said  the  American  Consul  of  Cienfuegos,  "  but  many 
go  further,  and  declare  it  to  be  the  location  of  the 
original  Paradise."  Certain  it  is  that  the  few  Ameri- 
cans who  have  sought  this  so  highly  praised  region, 
though  compelled  to  deny  themselves  the  ordinary 
comforts  to  be  found  in  more  accessible  resorts,  have 
admitted  with  emphasis  that  nature,  pure  and  unde- 
filed,  was  here  to  be  enjoyed  in  unstinted  measure. 

The  hills  bordering  the  shore  and  extending  some 
distance  inland  contain  much  undeveloped  mineral 
wealth,  such  as  iron,  silver,  and  gold.  A  mine  of  the 
former  product  is  now  being  profitably  worked  by  an 
American  company,  and  the  ore  regulai^y  shipped  to 
Pennsylvania  for  smelting.  This  ore  has  special  prop- 
erties which  render  it  more  than  usually  valuable, 
and  it  is  even  claimed  to  be  the  best  iron  mine  in  the 
world.  There  is  a  strangely  solitary  and  inhospitable 
appearance  about  this  portion  of  the  island,  devoid  ns 
it  is  of  all  human  habitations,  and  fringed  either  with 


30  DUE  SOUTH. 


long  reaches  of  lonely  snow-wliite  beach  or  rugged 
brown  rocks.  The  volcanic  appearance  of  the  land 
is  significant  of  former  upheavals,  and  this  immediate 
region  is  still  occasionally  troubled  with  geological 
chills  and  fever. 

The  nights  of  early  March  in  this  latitude  were  ex- 
ceedingly beautiful,  and  solemnly  impressive  was  the 
liberal  splendor  of  the  sky.  The  full  moon  looked 
down  upon  and  was  reflected  by  waters  of  perfect 
smoothness.  River  navigation  could  not  have  been 
more  quiet  than  were  these  nights  on  the  blue  Carib- 
bean Sea.  The  air  was  as  mild  as  June  in  New  Eng- 
land, while  at  night  the  Southern  Cross  and  the  North 
Star  blazed  in  the  horizon  at  the  same  time.  As  we 
steered  westward  after  doubling  the  cape,  both  of  these 
heavenly  sentinels  were  seen  abeam,  the  constellation 
on  our  port  side,  and  the  North  Star  on  the  starboard. 
Each  day,  at  tlie  noon  hour,  the  passengers  were  in- 
terested in  watching  the  officers  of  the  ship  while 
they  were  taking  the  sun,"  to  determine  the  lati- 
tude and  longitude.  Shall  we  put  the  process  into 
simple  form  for  the  information  of  the  uninitiated? 
When  the  sun  reaches  the  meridian,  or  culminating 
point  of  ascension,  the  exact  moment  is  indicated 
by  the  instrument  known  as  a  quadrant,  adjusted  to 
the  eye  of  the  observer.  The  figures  mai'ked  on  the 
quadrant  give  the  latitude  of  the  ship  at  the  moment 
of  meridian.  The  ship's  time  is  then  made  to  corre- 
spond, that  is  to  say,  it  must  indicate  12  o'clock,  M., 
after  which  it  is  compared  with  the  chronometer's 
Greenwich  time,  and  the  difference  enables  the  ob- 
server to  determine  the  longitude.  As  fifteen  miles 
are  allowed  to  the  minute,  there  will  be  nine  hundred 
miles  to  the  hour.    The  importance  of  absolute  cor- 


PICO  TURQUINO. 


31 


rectness  in  the  chronometer  will  at  once  be  realized, 
since,  were  it  only  three  minutes  out  of  the  way,  it 
would  render  the  calculation  as  to  longitude  wrong 
by  nearly  fifty  miles-,  which  might  be,  and  doubtless 
often  has  been,  the  cause  of  wrecking  a  ship  upon 
rocks  laid  down  upon  the  charts,  but  supposed  to  be 
far  away.  With  the  chronometer  and  the  quadrant 
observation  correctly  ascertained,  the  sailing-master 
can  prick  off  his  exact  situation  on  the 'chart.  So 
long  as  the  weather  will  permit  a  clear  view  of  the 
sun  at  noon,  the  ship's  precise  location  on  the  wide 
waste  of  waters  can  be  known  ;  bat  when  continuous 
cloudy  weather  prevails,  the  ship's  course  is  calculated 
hy  what  is  called  dead  reckoning,  depending  upon  the 
speed  and  distance  run  as  indicated  by  the  log,  which 
is  cast  hourly  under  such  circumstances,  and  becomes 
the  main  factor  in  calculating  the  position  of  the 
ship.  Of  course  the  result  cannot  be  very  accurate, 
but  is  a  dernier  ressort.  When  land  is  in  sight  no 
observation  is  necessary,  as  the  bearing  of  the  ship  is 
then  unmistakably  defined. 

The  sea  was  like  molten  sapphire  as  we  glided 
swiftly  along  the  southern  coast  of  Cuba,  w^atching 
the  gracefully  undulating  shore.  The  mountains  rose 
higher  and  higher,  until  they  culminated  in  the  lofty 
peak  of  Pico  Turquino  (blue  mountain),  over  ten 
thousand  feet  high,  as  lately  ascertained  by  actual 
measurement.  There  are  coves  and  bays  along  this 
coast  where  oysters  do  grow  upon  trees,  ridiculous  as 
the  assertion  first  strikes  the  ear.  The  mangrove- 
trees  extend  their  roots  from  the  shore  into  the  sea, 
to  which  the  oysters  afiix  themselves,  growing  and 
thriving  until  plucked  by  the  fishermen.  They  are 
small  and  of  an  inferior  species  compared  with  those 


32 


DUE  SOUTH. 


of  our  own  coast,  but  are  freely  eaten  in  the  island. 
Near  the  shore  hereabouts  are  many  islets  containing 
from  three  to  five  square  miles,  some  of  which  are 
quite  barren,  while  others  are  delicious  gardens,  full 
of  tropical  fruit  trees,  flowers,  and  odoriferous  plants, 
where  Paul  and  Virginia  might  have  felt  quite  at 
home,  wandering  hand  in  hand. 

Soon  after  passing  the  remarkably  sheltered  port 
of  Guantanamo,  which  was  for  nearly  a  century  the 
most  notorious  piratical  rendezvous  in  the  West  In- 
dies, the  famous  castle  of  Santiago  is  seen.  It  is 
known  as  Moro  Castle,  but  it  antedates  the  more 
familiar  Moro  of  Havana  by  a  full  century.  This 
antique,  yellow,  Moorish-looking  stronghold  —  which 
modern  gunnery  would  destroy  in  about  eight  min- 
utes —  is  picturesque  to  the  last  degree,  with  its 
crumbling,  honeycombed  battlements,  and  queer  lit- 
tle flanking  turrets,  grated  windows,  and  shadowy 
towers.  It  is  built  upon  the  face  of  a  lofty  dun- 
colored  rock,  upon  whose  precipitous  side  the  fortifi- 
cation is  terraced.  It  stands  just  at  the  entrance  of 
the  narrow  channel  leading  to  the  city,  so  that  in 
passing  in  one  can  easily  exchange  oral  greetings  with 
the  sentry  on  the  outer  battlement.  What  strikingly 
artistic  pictures  the  light  and  shade  together  formed 
with  those  time-stained  walls,  as  we  steamed  slowly 
by  them  !  On  the  ocean  side,  directly  under  the 
castle,  the  sea  has  worn  a  gaping  cave,  so  deep  that 
it  has  not  been  explored  within  the  memory  of  the 
people  living  in  the  neighborhood.  The  broad  and 
lofty  entrance  is  in  form  as  perfect  an  arch  as  could 
be  drawn  by  the  pencil  of  a  skillful  architect.  As  is 
usual  with  such  formations  all  over  the  world,  there 
is  a  romantic  legend  concerning  the  cave  related  as 


APPROACHING  SANTIAGO. 


33 


connected  with  the  olden  time,  and  there  is  also  a 
prevailing  superstition  that  no  one  attempting  to  ex- 
plore it  will  live  to  return.^ 

In  passing  up  the  channel  two  or  three  little  forts 
of  queer  construction  are  seen,  supplementing  the 
larger  one,  placed  upon  jutting  headlands.  The 
Moro  of  Santiago  is  now  used  as  a  prison  for  political 
offenders  ;  its  days  of  defensive  importance  ended  with 
the  period  of  the  buccaneers,  against  whose  crude 
means  of  warfare  it  was  an  ample  protection.  As 
we  steamed  past  it  that  sunny  afternoon,  stimulated 
by  the  novelty  of  everything  about  us,  a  crowd  of  pal- 
lid, sorrowful  faces  appeared  at  the  grated  windows, 
watching  us  listlessly.  Two  days  later  five  of  them, 
who  were  condemned  patriots,  were  led  out  upon 
those  ramparts  and  shot,  their  bodies  falling  into  the 
sen,  and  eight  were  sent  to  the  penal  settlement  of 
Ceuta.  Spain  extends  no  mercy  to  those  who  dare 
to  raise  their  hands  or  voices  in  favor  of  freedom  ;  her 
political  existence  is  sustained  only  in  an  atmosphere 
of  oppression  and  cruelty.  Every  page  of  her  history 
is  a  tableau  of  bloodshed  and  torture.  The  narrow 
winding  channel  which  leads  from  the  open  sea  to 
the  harbor  passes  through  low  hills  and  broad  mead- 
ows covered  with  rank  verdure,  cocoanut  groves,  and 
little  fishing  hamlets.  Thrifty  laurels,  palms  with 
their  graceful  plumes  of  foliage,  and  intensely  green 
bananas  line  the  way,  with  here  and  there  upon  the 
banks  a  pleasant  country  house  in  the  midst  of  a 
pretty  garden  of  flowering  shrubs.  So  close  is  the 
shore  all  the  while  that  one  seems  to  be  navigating 
upon  the  land,  gliding  among  trees  and  over  green- 
sward rather  than  on  blue  water.  Presently  we  pass 
a  sharp  angle  of  the  hills  into  a  broad,  sheltered  bay, 
3 


34 


DUE  SOUTH. 


and  before  us  lies  the  quaint,  rambling  old  city  of 
Santiago  de  Cuba,  built  upon  a  hillside,  like  Tangier 
in  Africa,  and  nearly  as  Oriental  as  that  capital  of 
Morocco.  The  first  most  conspicuous  objects  to  meet 
tlie  eye  are  the  twin  towers  of  the  ancient  cathedral 
which  have  withstood  so  many  earthquakes.  The 
weather-beaten  old  quartermaster  on  our  forecastle 
applies  the  match  to  his  brass  twelve-pounder,  awak- 
ing a  whole  broadside  of  echoes  among  the  moun- 
tains, the  big  chain  rushes  swiftly  through  the  hawse- 
hole,  and  the  ship  swings  at  her  anchor  in  the  middle 
of  the  picturesque  bay. 

A  boat  was  promptly  secured  with  which  to  land 
at  this  ancient  city,  founded  by  Velasquez.  From  the 
moment  one  touches  the  shore  a  sense  of  being  in  a 
foreign  land  forces  itself  upon  the  new-comer.  The 
half-unintelligible  language,  the  people,  the  architec- 
ture, the  manners,  the  vegetation,  even  the  very  at- 
mosphere and  the  intensity  of  the  sunshine,  are  novel 
and  attractive.  It  is  easy  to  convey  our  partial  im- 
pressions of  a  new  place,  however  unique  it  may  be, 
but  not  our  inward  sensations.  The  former  are  tangi- 
ble, as  it  were,  and  may  be  depicted ;  the  latter  are 
like  atmospheric  air,  which  cannot  be  seen,  but  is  felt. 
The  many-colored,  one-story  houses  of  Santiago  are 
Moorish  in  architecture,  ranged  in  narrow  streets, 
which  cross  each  other  at  right  angles  with  consid- 
erable regularity,  but  with  roadways  in  an  almost 
impassable  condition,  lined  with  sidewalks  of  ten  or 
fifteen  inches  in  width.  These  thoroughfares  were 
once  paved  with,  cobblestones,  but  are  now  charac- 
terized by  dirt  and  neglect,  a  stream  of  offensive  wa- 
ter constantly  percolating  through  them,  in  which  lit- 
tle naked  children  are  at  play.    No  wonder  that  the 


CITY  OF  SANTIAGO. 


35 


city  is  annually  decimated  by  yellow  fever ;  the  sur- 
prise is  that  it  does  not  prevail  there  every  month  in 
the  year.  The  boys  and  girls  of  the  lower  classes, 
white  and  black,  are  not  thought  to  require  clothing 
until  they  are  about  nine  years  of  age.  A  few  ne- 
gresses  were  observed  sitting  on  the  ground,  at  the 
corners  of  the  streets,  beside  their  baskets  containing 
sweet  cakes,  mouldy  biscuits,  bananas,  and  grape-fruit, 
the  uninviting  appearance  of  which  seemed  to  indi- 
cate that  they  were  in  the  last  stage  of  collapse.  Was 
it  possible  any  one  could  eat  such  stuff?  As  we 
passed  and  repassed  these  patient  waiters,  certainly 
no  purchasers  appeared.  How  the  forty-five  thou- 
sand inhabitants  manage  to  achieve  a  living  it  would 
be  difficult  to  imagine,  for  the  town  seeuied  to  be  as 
dead  and  void  of  all  activity  as  Cordova,  in  far-off 
Spain,  the  sleepiest  city  in  all  Europe.  Santiago  has 
not  a  single  bookstore  within  its  limits.  No  other 
place  in  Christendom,  with  so  numerous  a  population, 
could  exist,  outside  of  Spain,  without  some  literary 
resort.  There  are  here  three  or  four  spacious  two- 
story  club-houses,  with  some  pretension  to  neatness 
and  social  accommodations;  but  then  no  Cuban  town 
of  any  size  would  be  complete  without  these  anti- 
domestic  institutions,  where  the  male  population  may 
congregate  for  evening  entertainment.  The  interior 
arrangements  of  these  club-houses  were  entirely  ex- 
posed to  view,  as  we  passed  by  the  iron-grated  win- 
dows, devoid  of  curtains,  blinds,  or  screens  of  any 
sort,  and  extending  from  ceiling  to  floor. 

Santiago  dates  back  to  the  year  of  our  Lord  1514, 
making  it  the  oldest  city  in  the  New  World,  next 
to  San  Domingo,  and  it  will  be  remembered  as  the 
place  whence  Cortez  sailed,  in  1519,  to  invade  Mexico. 


86 


DUE  SOUTH, 


Here  also  has  been  the  seat  of  modern  rebellion 
against  the  arbitrary  and  bitterly  oppressive  rule  of 
the  home  government.  The  city  is  situated  six  hun- 
dred miles  southeast  of  Havana,  and,  after  Matanzas, 
comes  next  to  it  in  commercial  importance,  its  exports 
reaching  the  handsome  annual  aggregate  of  eight 
millions  of  dollars.  It  is  the  terminus  of  two  lines 
of  railways,  which  pass  through  the  sugar  districts, 
and  afford  transportation  for  this  great  staple.  Three 
leagues  inland,  among  the  mountains,  are  situated  the 
famous  Cobre  copper  mines,  said  to  be  of  superior 
richness,  and  whence,  in  the  days  of  their  active  work- 
ing, four  million  dollars'  worth  of  the  ore  has  been 
exported  in  one  year.  This  was  the  amount  shipped 
in  1841,  and  so  late  as  1867  six  thousand  tons  were 
exported  in  ten  months.  Not  content  with  realizing 
a  very  large  income  from  the  mines  by  way  of  taxes 
upon  the  product,  the  Spanish  government  increased 
these  excise  charges  to  such  an  extent  as  to  absorb 
the  entire  profits  of  the  works  and  kill  the  enterprise, 
so  that  the  rich  ores  of  Cobre  now  rest  undisturbed 
in  the  earth.  It  seems  there  is  an  Indian  village  near 
the  copper  mines,  whose  people  are  represented  to  be 
the  only  living  descendants  of  the  aborigines,  —  the 
Caribs  whom  Columbus  found  here  on  first  landing. 
Careful  inquiry,  however,  led  us  seriously  to  doubt 
the  authenticity  of  the  story.  Probably  this  people 
are  peculiar  in  their  language,  and  isolation  may  have 
caused  them  to  differ  in  some  respects  from  the  inhab- 
itants of  the  valley  and  plains,  but  four  centuries  must 
have  destroyed  every  trace  of  the  early  inhabitants 
of  Cuba.  Having  been  from  the  very  outset  enslaved 
and  brutally  treated  by  the  Spaniards,  it  is  believed 
that  as  early  as  the  year  of  our  Lord  1700  they  had 


CATHEDRAL  OF  SANTIAGO, 


87 


utterly  disappeared,  and  some  historians  say  no  trace 
even  was  to  be  found  of  the  native  race  one  century 
after  the  settlement  of  the  island  by  Europeans. 

The  head  of  the  Church  of  Rome  in  Cuba  is  located 
here,  it  being  an  archbishop's  see ;  and  the  elaborate 
ceremonials  which  occasionally  take  place  attract  peo- 
ple from  the  most  distant  cities  of  the  island.  We 
chanced  to  be  present  when  the  bishop  was  passing 
into  the  cathedral,  clothed  in  full  canonicals  and  ac- 
companied by  church  dignitaries  bearing  a  canopy 
above  his  head.  Observing  our  little  party  as  stran- 
gers, though  in  the  midst  of  a  stately  ceremony,  the 
bishop  graciously  made  us  a  sign  of  recognition.  The 
cathedral  of  Santiago  is  the  hirgest  in  Cuba,  but  ex- 
tremely simple  in  its  interior  arrangements  ;  and  so, 
indeed,  are  all  the  churches  on  the  island.  As  to  the 
exterior,  the  facade  resembles  the  cathedral  of  Havana, 
being  of  the  same  porous  stone,  which  always  presents 
a  crumbled  and  mottled  surface.  The  inside  decora- 
tions are  childish  and  fanciful,  consisting  mostly  of 
artificial  flowers  of  colored  paper,  crudely  formed  by 
inexperienced  hands  into  stars,  wreaths,  and  crosses. 
One  innovation  was  noticed  in  this  church :  a  saint 
on  the  right  of  the  altar  was  mounted  upon  a  wooden 
horse,  with  spear  in  rest  a  la  militaire,  forming  a  most 
incongruous  figure.  In  the  church  of  Matanzas,  vis- 
ited a  week  or  two  later,  the  effigy  of  our  Saviour  was 
observed  to  be  half  dressed  iu  female  attire,  a  glar- 
ing absurdity  which  the  author  has  once  before  seen 
in  the  Spanish  convent-church  of  Burgos.  In  the 
Matanzas  church  alluded  to,  boys  and  girls  of  nine 
and  ten  yc  ars  were  seen  at  the  confessional.  Could 
absurdity  be  carried  to  a  greater  height?  These  with 
negro  women  form  nearly  all  the  audiences  to  be  met 


38 


DUE  SOUTH. 


with  in  the  Cuban  churches,  unless  upon  festal  occa- 
sions. The  men  manifest  their  indifference  by  their 
absence,  and  white  women  are  scarcely  represented. 
Besides  the  cathedral,  Santiago  has  three  or  four 
other  old  churches,  small  and  dilapidated,  within 
whose  sombre  walls  one  seems  to  have  stepped  back 
into  the  fifteenth  century.  Upon  strolling  acciden- 
tally into  one  of  these  we  felt  a  chill  suffuse  the  whole 
system,  like  that  realized  on  descending  into  a  dark, 
undrained  cellar. 

The  multiplicity  and  gaudiness  of  the  drinking- 
saloons  and  bar-rooms  were  particularly  noticeable  in 
passing  along  the  principal  streets,  and  all  were 
doing  a  thriving  business,  judging  from  appearances. 
The  Cubans  drink  lightly,  but  they  drink  often,  and 
are  especially  addicted  to  gin,  which  is  dealt  out  to 
them  at  an  extraordinarily  low  price.  It  appears  that 
people  can  consume  a  much  larger  quantity  of  spirit- 
uous liquors  here  without  becoming  intoxicated  than 
they  can  do  at  the  North.  It  is  very  rare  to  see  a 
person  overcome  by  this  indulgence  in  Cuba,  and  yet, 
as  was  afterwards  observed  in  Cienfuegos,  Matan- 
zas,  and  Havana,  the  common  people  begin  the  day 
with  a  very  liberal  dram,  and  follow  it  up  with  fre- 
quent libations  until  bed-time,  —  tippling  at  every 
convenient  opportunity.  A  few  of  the  better  class 
of  private  houses  were  constructed  with  courts  in  the 
centre,  where  flowers  and  tropical  fruits  were  grow- 
ing luxuriantly.  These  dwellings  were  confined  to 
no  special  quarter  of  the  town,  but  were  as  often 
found  next  to  a  commercial  warehouse  or  a  negro 
shanty  as  elsewhere.  The  dogs,  liorses,  and  Chinese 
coolies  were  all  in  wretched  condition.  One  miglit 
count  the  ribs  of  the  first  two  a  long  way  off,  while 


IN  SANTIAGO. 


39 


the  latter  were  ragged,  lame,  half-starved,  and  many 
of  them  blind.  Animals  are  the  recipients  of  the 
severest  sort  of  usage  both  in  Cuba  and  Spain,  Few 
vehicles  were  to  be  seen,  as  merchandise  is  mostly- 
transported  on  the  backs  of  mules  and  ponies,  and 
these  animals  are  seldom  shod. 

The  town  is  lighted  with  gas,  or  rather  it  was  so 
illuminated  a  few  weeks  since  ;  but  it  was  quietly 
whispered  about  that  the  corporation  had  failed  to 
pay  for  this  service  last  year,  and  that  the  monopoly 
itself  was  on  the  verge  of  bankruptcy,  like  nearly 
everything  else  of  a  business  character  in  Cuba.  The 
gaslights  certainly  appeared  pale  and  sickly  enough, 
as  though  only  half  confirmed  in  the  purpose  of  giv- 
ing any  light  at  all,  and  were  prematurely  extin- 
guished in  many  of  the  streets.  In  the  shops,  whose 
fronts  were  all  open,  like  those  of  Canton  and  Yo- 
kohama, the  clerks  were  to  be  seen  in  their  shirt 
sleeves,  guiltless  of  vests  or  collars,  coquetting  over 
calicoes  and  gandy-colored  merinos  with  mulatto  girls 
decked  in  cheap  jewelry,  and  with  ncgresses  wear- 
ing enormous  hoop-earrings.  At  the  approach  of 
evening  the  bar-rooms  and  saloons,  with  a  liberal 
display  of  looking-glasses,  bottles  of  colored  liquors, 
gin,  and  glitter,  were  dazzling  to  behold.  The  marble 
tables  were  crowded  with  domino  and  card  players, 
each  sipping  at  intervals  his  favorite  tipple.  The 
sidewalks  are  so  narrow  that  the  pedestrian  naturally 
seeks  the  middle  of  the  street  as  a  pathway,  and  the 
half  a  dozen  victorias  and  four  volantes  which  form 
the  means  of  transportation  in  Santiago,  and  which 
are  constantly  wandering  about  in  search  of  a  job, 
manage  to  meet  or  to  overtake  one  perpetually  ;  caus- 
ing first  a  right  oblique,  then  a  left  oblique,  movement, 


40 


DUE  SOUTH. 


with  such  regularity  as  to  amount  to  an  endless  zig- 
zag. We  did  not  exactly  appreciate  the  humor  of 
this  annoyance,  but  perhaps  the  drivers  did.  After 
climbing  and  descending  these  narrow,  dirty  streets 
by  daylight  and  by  gaslight,  and  watching  the  local 
characteristics  for  a  few  hours,  one  is  only  too  happy 
to  take  a  boat  back  to  the  ship,  and  leave  all 
behind. 

A  desire  for  a  cold  bath  and  a  good  swim  is  natu- 
ral in  this  climate  after  sunset,  but  beware  of  indulg- 
ing this  inclination  in  the  waters  of  Santiago.  Under 
that  smooth,  inviting  surface,  glistening  beneath  the 
rays  of  a  full  moon,  lurk  myriads  of  sharks.  They 
are  large,  hungry,  man-eating  creatures,  the  tigers  of 
the  ocean,  and  the  dread  of  all  local  boatmen  here. 
To  fall  overboard  in  these  waters,  however  good  a 
swimmer  one  may  be,  is  simply  to  be  devoured.  At 
Singapore,  Sumatra,  or  Batavia,  a  Malay  will  for  a 
consideration  dive  into  the  waters  of  the  Malacca 
Straits,  armed  with  a  long,  sharp  knife,  boldly  attack 
a  shark,  and  rip  open  his  bowels  at  the  moment 
when  he  turns  on  his  side  to  give  the  deadly  bite. 
But  on  that  coast  this  dreaded  fish  appears  singly  ; 
it  is  rare  to  see  two  of  them  together;  while  Santiago 
harbor  seems  to  swarm  with  them,  the  dark  dorsal 
fin  of  the  threatening  creatures  just  parting  the  sur- 
face of  the  sea,  and  betraying  their  presence.  Ly- 
ing at  anchor  between  our  ship  and  the  shore  was  a 
trig  Spanish  corvette,  —  an  American-built  vessel,  by 
the  way,  though  belonging  to  the  navy  of  Spain.  It 
was  curious  at  times  to  watch  her  crew  being  drilled 
in  various  martial  manoeuvres.  While  an  officer  was 
exercising  the  men  at  furling  topsails,  a  few  days 
before  our  arrival,  a  foretopman  fell  from  aloft  into 


EVENING  —  SANTIAGO  HARBOR, 


41 


the  sea.  Under  ordinaiy  circumstances  imd  in  most 
waters,  the  man  could  easily  have  been  saved,  but 
not  so  in  this  instance.  He  did  not  even  rise  to  the 
surface.  A  struggle  for  portions  of  his  body  between 
half  a  dozen  ravenous  sharks  was  observed  alongside 
the  corvette,  and  all  was  quickly  over.  The  fore- 
topman  had  been  torn  limb  from  limb  and  instantly 
devoured. 

The  over-stimulated  brain  felt  no  inclination  for 
sleep  on  this  first  night  in  the  harbor,  the  situation 
was  so  novel,  and  the  night  itself  one  to  suggest  po- 
etic thoughts.  The  moon  was  creeping  slowly  across 
the  blue  vault,  like  a  great  phantom  mingling  Avitli 
the  lambent  purity  of  the  stars.  We  sat  silently 
watching  the  heavens,  the  water,  and  the  shore  ;  saw 
the  lights  go  out  one  after  another  among  the  clus- 
tering dwellings,  and  the  street  gas-burners  shut  off 
here  and  there,  until  by  and  by  the  drowsy  town  was 
wrapped  in  almost  perfect  darkness.  Only  the  rip- 
ple of  the  sea  alongside  the  ship  broke  the  silence, 
or  the  sudden  splash  of  some  large  fisli,  leaping  out  of 
and  falling  back  into  the  water.  It  seemed  as  though 
no  sky  was  ever  before  of  such  marvelous  blue  deptli, 
no  water  so  full  of  mystery,  no  shore  so  clad  in  magic 
verdure,  and  no  night  ever  of  such  resplendent  clear- 
ness. The  landing-steps  and  grating  had  been  rigged 
out  from  a  broad  porthole  on  the  spar  deck,  where  a 
quartermaster  was  awaiting  the  return  of  the  purser 
and  a  party  of  gentlemen  who  were  making  late,  or 
ratlier  early,  hours  on  shore  ;  for  it  was  nearly  two 
o'clock  in  the  morning,  and  the  weary  seaman,  who 
had  sat  down  at  his  post  on  the  grating,  was  snoring 
like  a  wheezy  trombone.  The  measured  tread  fore 
and  aft  of  the  second  officer,  who  kept  the  anchor 


42 


DTE  SOUTH. 


v^'^tch,  was  the  only  eviderice  of  wakefulness  that 
disturbed  our  lonely  mood.  A  similar  nigdit  scene 
was  vividly  called  to  mind  as  experienced  in  Ty- 
plioon  Bay.  below  Hong  Kong,  a  few  years  since. 

In  the  harbor,  next  morning,  a  sunken  wreck  was 
pointed  out  to  us,  which  was  partially  visible  at  low 
tide,  not  far  from  the  shore.  Only  the  ribs  and 
stanchions  are  still  held  together  by  the  stout  keel 
timbers  and  lower  sheathing.  This  wreck  has  lain 
there  unheeded  for  years,  yet  what  a  story  these  old 
timbers  might  tell,  had  they  only  a  tongue  with  which 
ti)  give  voice  to  their  experience!  —  literally  the  ex- 
perience of  ages.  Vn'o  refer  to  the  remains  of  the 
old  St.  P;tul.  one  of  the  ships  of  the  great  Spanish 
Armada  that  Philip  II.  sent  to  England  in  1588,  be- 
ing one  of  the  very  ft-w  of  that  famous  flotilla  that 
escaped  destruction  at  th.e  time.  Wliat  a  historical 
memento  is  the  old  ^"\'reck  !  After  a  checkered  career, 
in  which  this  ancient  craft  had  breasted  the  waves  of 
innumerable  seas  and  withstood  the  ^torUiS  ot  nearly 
three  centuries,  sh.e  v\'as  burned  to  the  waiter's  edge 
here  in  the  harbor  of  Santiago  a  few  years  since,  and 
sunk,  ^^'here  her  remain.s  novy  lie.  covered  with  slime 
and  barnacles,  —  a  striking  en^blem  of  the  nation 
whose  flag  she  once  proudly  bore.  During  the  last 
rears  of  her  career  afloat  she  was  used  for  transport- 
ing troops  from  Europe,  and  as  a  Spanish  guard-sliip 
in  these  seas  by  the  local  government.  It  is  doubt- 
ful if  it  is  generally  known  that  this  relic  of  the 
Spanish  Armada  is  in  existeuice.  Curio-hunters,  once 
put  upon  the  scent,  will  probably  soon  reduce  tht-se 
ancient  timbers  to  chips,  and  a  crop  of  canes  and 
snuft'-boxes.  more  or  less  hideous  and  more  or  less 
counterfeit,  will  ensue. 


MONEY  IN  CUBA. 


43 


Here  we  got  our  first  experience  of  the  present  cur- 
rency, —  tlie  valueless  circulating  medium  of  Cuba. 
When  one  lias  occasion  to  visit  the  island  it  is  best 
to  take  American  funds,  eitlier  in  bank-bills  or  gold, 
sufficient  to  meet  all  ordinary  expenses.  Our  bank- 
bills  and  our  gold  are  both  at  a  premium.  This 
will  also  save  all  necessity  for  drawing  on  home 
through  any  local  bankers,  who  have  a  way  of  charg- 
ing for  the  accommodation  quite  after  the  style  of 
everything  Spanish.  The  hotel-keepers  will  require 
their  pay  on  the  basis  of  Spanish  gold,  but  will  cheer- 
fully allow  a  premium  of  six  per  cent,  on  American 
gold  or  American  bank-bills.  As  to  the  banks  in 
Cuba,  all  are  shaky,  so  to  speak ;  several  have  lately 
failed,  and  the  others  might  as  well  do  so.  It  is  not 
long  since  the  president  of  the  Havana  Savings  Bank 
placed  a  pistol  at  his  temple  and  blew  his  brains  out. 
Mercantile  credit  may  be  said  to  be  dead,  and  busi- 
ness nearly  at  a  standstill.  Commercial  honesty  is 
hardly  to  be  expected  from  a  bankrupt  community, 
where  the  people  seem  only  to  be  engaged  in  the  sale 
and  purchase  of  lottery  tickets,  a  habit  participated 
in  by  all  classes. 

What  little  gold  and  silver  coin  there  is  found  in 
circulation  is  mutilated ;  every  piece  of  money,  large 
and  small,  has  been  subjected  to  the  ingenious  punch, 
and  thus  has  lost  a  portion  of  its  intrinsic  value. 
American  gold  and  silver,  not  having  been  thus 
clipped,  justly  commands  a  six  per  cent,  premium. 

The  circulating  medium  upon  the  island  is  paper 
scrip,  precisely  similar  to  that  used  in  this  country 
before  the  resumption  of  specie  payment.  This  scrip 
is  dirty  beyond  endurance,  and  one  absolutely  hesi- 
tates to  take  it  in  making  change. 


44 


DUE  SOUTH. 


When  our  currency  became  soiled  and  torn  we 
could  exchange  it  for  new,  but  there  is  no  such  facil- 
ity in  Cuba.  One  dollar  of  our  money  will  purchase 
$2.45  of  this  scrip.  It  passes  current,  and  really 
seems  to  answer  the  necessities  of  trade,  but  even 
the  Cubans  are  not  deceived  by  it.  They  know  that 
it  is  really  worthless,  being  based  upon  nothing,  and 
issued  indiscriminately  by  a  bankrupt  government. 
The  paper-mill  grinds  it  out  in  five,  ten,  twenty,  and 
fifty  cent  pieces  as  fast  as  it  can  be  put  into  circu- 
lation, while  no  one  knows  how  much  has  been  issued. 
But  one  thing  is  known ;  namely,  that  every  author- 
ized issue  of  a  given  sum  has  been  enormously  ex- 
ceeded in  amount. 

Within  about  five  years,  or  less,  an  issue  of  bank- 
bills  and  of  this  small  currency  was  entrusted  to  an 
establishment  in  the  United  States,  when  fourteen 
millions  of  dollars  were  printed  in  addition  to  the 
amount  authorized !  All  were  duly  receipted  for  and 
signed  by  corrupt  Spanish  officials,  who  coolly  divided 
these  millions  among  themselves  !  The  Captain  Gen- 
eral of  Cuba  during  whose  administration  this  finan- 
cial stroke  was  accomplished  came  to  the  island  a 
poor  man,  and  returned  to  Spain  in  two  years  pos- 
sessed of  three  million  dollars ! 

There  is  no  more  beautiful  or  safe  harbor  in  the 
world  than  that  of  Santiago  de  Cuba,  commercially 
speaking,  as  it  is  completely  land-locked  and  protected 
on  all  sides  from  storms  ;  but  for  the  same  reason  it  is 
as  close  and  hot  an  anchorage  as  can  be  found  in  the 
tropics.  An  intelligent  resident  gave  us  80°  Fahren- 
heit as  the  average  temperature  of  the  year,  though 
the  thermometer  showed  a  more  ambitious  figure 
during  our  brief  stay.    There  are  but  two  seasons, 


WATER  IN  SANTIAGO. 


45 


the  wet  and  the  dry,  the  latter  extending  from  Sep- 
tember to  May.  The  city  might  have  an  excellent 
water  supply  if  there  were  sufficient  enterprise  among 
the  citizens  to  cause  it  to  be  conducted  by  pipes  from 
the  springs  in  the  neighboring  hills.  It  is  now  wretch- 
edly deficient  in  this  respect,  causing  both  suffering 
and  ill  health  in  a  climate  especially  demanding  this 
prime  necessity  of  life. 


CHAPTER  III. 


Doubling  Cape  Cruz.  —  Trinidad.  —  Cienfuegos.  —  The  Plaza.—  Beg- 
gars. —  Visit  to  a  Sugar  Plantation.  —  Something  about  Sugar.  — 
An  Original  Character.  —  A  Tropical  Fruit  Garden.  —  Cuban  Hos- 
pitality. —  The  Banana.  —  Lottery  Tickets.  —  Chinese  Coolies.  — 
Blindness  in  Cuba.  —  Birds  and  Poultry.  —  The  Cock-Pit.  —  Negro 
Slavery,  To-Day.  —  Spanish  Slaveholders.  —  A  Slave  Mutiny.  —  A 
Pleasant  Journey  across  the  Island.  —  Pictures  of  the  Interior. — 
Scenery  about  Matanzas.  —  The  Tropics  and  the  North  contrasted. 

To  reach  Cienfuegos,  our  next  objective  point,  one 
takes  water  conveyance,  the  common  roads  in  this  dis- 
trict being,  if  possible,  a  degree  worse  than  elsewhere. 
It  is  therefore  necessary  to  double  Cape  Cruz,  and 
perform  a  coasting  voyage  along  the  southern  shore 
of  the  island  of  about  four  hundred  miles.  This  is 
really  delightful  sailing  in  any  but  the  hurricane 
months;  that  is,  between  the  middle  of  August  and  the 
middle  of  October.  It  would  seem  that  this  should  be 
quite  a  commercial  thoroughfare,  but  it  is  surprising 
l)ow  seldom  a  sailing-vessel  is  seen  on  the  voyage, 
and  it  is  still  more  rare  to  meet  a  steamship.  Our 
passage  along  the  coast  was  delightful :  the  undulating 
hills,  vales,  and  plains  seemed  to  be  quietly  gliding 
past  us  of  their  own  volition  ;  the  tremor  of  the  ship 
did  not  suggest  motion  of  the  hull,  but  a  sense  of  de- 
light at  the  moving  panorama  so  clearly  depicted. 
No  extensive  range  of  waters  in  either  hemisphere  is 
so  proverbially  smooth  as  the  Caribbean  Sea,  during 
eight  months  of  the  year,  but  a  stout  hull  and  good 
seamanship  are  demanded  during  the  remaining  four, 


TRINIDAD. 


47 


especially  if  coming  from  the  northward  over  the  Ba- 
hama Banks  and  through  the  Windward  Passage,  as 
described  in  these  chapters. 

The  city  of  Trinidad,  perched  upon  a  hillside,  is 
passed  at  the  distance  of  a  few  miles,  being  pleasantly 
situated  more  than  a  league  from  the  coast.  The 
town  of  Casilda  is  its  commercial  port.  This  arrange- 
ment was  adopted  in  the  early  days  as  a  partial  pro- 
tection against  the  frequent  inroads  of  the  bucca- 
neers, who  ceased  to  be  formidable  when  separated 
from  their  ships.  Trinidad  was  once  the  centre  of 
the  prosperous  coffee  trade  of  Cuba,  but  is  now,  and 
has  been  for  many  years,  commercially  wrecked.  It 
is  very  beautifully  located,  with  Mount  Vijia  for  its 
background,  in  what  is  declared  to  be  the  healthiest 
district  upon  the  island.  But  it  is  an  ancient  city, 
comparatively  deserted,  its  date  being  nearly  contem- 
porary with  that  of  Santiago.  Cienfuegos,  its  success- 
ful business  rival,  is  on  the  contrary  quite  modern, 
exhibiting  many  features  of  thrift  and  activity,  and 
is  counted  the  third  commercial  city  of  Cuba.  Like 
Cnrdenas,  it  is  called  an  American  capital.  It  has 
some  twenty-five  thousand  inhabitants,  a  large  pro- 
portion of  whom  speak  English,  nine  tenths  of  its 
commerce  being  with  the  United  States.  In  this  im- 
mediate neighborhood  Columbus,  on  his  second  voy- 
age, saw  with  astonishment  the  mysterious  king  who 
spoke  to  his  subjects  only  by  signs,  and  that  group  of 
men  who  wore  long  white  tunics  like  the  monks  of 
mercy,  while  the  rest  of  the  people  were  entirely 
naked.  The  town  is  low  and  level,  occupying  a  broad 
plane.  The  streets  are  of  fair  width,  crossing  each 
other  at  right  angles,  and  are  kept  neat  and  clean. 
The  harbor  is  an  excellent  and  spacious  one,  admit- 


48 


DUE  SOUTH. 


ting  of  vessels  being  moored  at  the  wharves,  a  com- 
mercial convenience  unknown  at  Santiago,  Matanzas, 
or  Havana.  The  navies  of  all  the  world  might  ren- 
dezvous here  and  not  crowd  each  other.  Three  riv- 
ers, the  Canudo,  Saludo,  and  Danuyi,  empty  into  the 
bay,  and  each  is  navigable  for  a  considerable  distance 
inland,  a  matter  of  great  importance  in  a  country  so 
devoid  of  good  roads.  The  parti-colored  houses  are  of 
the  usual  Cuban  type,  mostly  of  one  story,  built  with 
a  patio  or  open  courtyard  in  the  centre,  well  filled 
with  flowering  plants,  among  which  were  observed 
the  attractive  coral-tree,  which  resembles  a  baby 
palm,  and  the  universal  banana. 

The  Plaza  of  Cienfuegos  forms  a  large,  well-ar- 
ranged square,  where  an  out-door  military  concert  is 
given  twice  a  week,  a  universal  practice  in  all  Cuban 
cities.  It  is  laid  out  with  excellent  taste,  its  broad 
paths  nicely  paved,  and  the  whole  lighted  at  night 
with  numerous  ornamental  gas-lamps?  The  vegeta- 
tion is  both  attractive  and  characteristic,  consisting  of 
palms,  laurels,  and  flowering  shrubs,  mingled  with 
which  are  some  exotics  from  the  North,  which  droop 
with  a  homesick  aspect.  Plants,  like  human  beings, 
will  pine  for  their  native  atmosphere.  If  it  be  more 
rigorous  and  less  genial  at  the  North,  still  there  is 
a  bracing,  tonic  effect,  imparting  life  and  strength, 
which  is  wanting  in  the  low  latitudes.  On  one  side 
of  this  fine  square  is  the  government  house  and  bar- 
racks, opposite  to  which  is  an  open-air  theatre,  and  in 
front  is  the  cathedral  with  any  number  of  discordant 
bells.  The  little  English  sparrow  seems  to  be  ubiq- 
uitous, and  as  pugnacious  here  as  on  Boston  Common, 
or  the  Central  Park  of  New  York,  Boyish  games  are 
very  similar  the  world  over :  young  Cuba  was  playing 


CUBAN  BEGGARS. 


49 


marbles  after  the  orthodox  fashion,  knuckle-down. 
It  was  very  pitiful  to  behold  the  army  of  beggars  in 
so  small  a  city,  but  begging  is  synonymous  with  the 
Spanish  name,  both  in  her  European  and  colonial 
possessions.  Here  the  maimed,  halt,  and  blind  meet 
one  at  every  turn.  Saturday  is  the  harvest  day  for 
beggars  in  the  Cuban  cities,  on  which  occasion  they 
go  about  by  scores  from  door  to  door,  carrying  a  large 
canvas  bag.  Each  family  and  shop  is  supplied  with 
.a  quantity  of  small  rolls  of  bread,  specially  baked 
for  the  purpose,  and  one  of  which  is  nearly  always 
given  to  the  applicant  on  that  day,  so  the  mendicant's 
bag  becomes  full  of  rolls.  These,  mixed  with  vege- 
tables, bits  of  fish,  and  sometimes  meat  and  bones 
when  they  can  be  procured,  are  boiled  into  a  soup, 
thus  keeping  soul  and  body  together  in  the  poor 
creatures  during  the  week. 

Cienfuegos  is  situated  in  the  midst  of  a  sugar-pro- 
ducing district,  where  soil  and  climate  are  both  favor- 
able, and  over  twenty  large  plantations  are  to  be  seen 
within  a  radius  of  two  or  three  leagues.  The  export 
from  them,  as  we  were  informed  by  the  courteous 
editor  of  La  Opinion,"  a  local  paper,  aggregates 
thirty  thousand  hogsheads  annually.  The  visitor 
should  not  fail  to  make  an  excursion  to  some  repre- 
sentative plantation,  where  it  is  impossible  not  to  be 
much  interested  and  practically  informed.  One  of 
these  sugar  estates,  situated  less  than  two  leagues 
from  the  town,  was  found  to  be  furnished  with  a 
complete  outfit  of  the  most  modern  machinery,  which 
had  cost  the  proprietor  a  quarter  of  a  million  dollars. 
It  was  w^orking  with  the  usual  favorable  results, 
though  at  the  present  price  of  sugar  no  profit  can 
accrue  to  the  planter.  The  plantation  presented  a 
4 


50 


DUE  SOUTH, 


busy  scene.  During  the  grinding  season  the  ma- 
chinery is  run  night  and  day,  but  is  obliged  to  lie 
idle  for  eight  months  out  of  the  year. 

In  the  uncultivated  fields  through  which  we  passed 
when  driving  out  to  the  sugar  estate,  the  prickly 
pear  grew  close  to  the  ground  in  great  luxuriance,  as 
it  is  seen  on  our  Western  prairies.  Its  thick  leaves, 
so  green  as  to  be  dense  with  color,  impart  the  effect 
of  greensward  at  a  short  distance.  On  close  inspec- 
tion it  was  seen  to  be  the  star  cactus,  which  like  the 
Northern  thistle  kills  all  other  vegetation  within  its 
reach.  Here  and  there  the  wild  ipecacuanha  with  its 
bright  red  blossom  was  observed,  but  the  fields,  ex- 
cept those  devoted  to  the  cane,  w^ere  very  barren  near 
Cienfuegos. 

Sugar-cane  is  cultivated  like  Indian  corn,  which  it 
also  resembles  in  appearance.  It  is  first  planted  in 
rows,  not  in  hills,  and  must  be  hoed  and  weeded  un- 
til it  gets  high  enough  to  shade  its  roots.  Then  it 
may  be  left  to  itself  until  it  reaches  maturity.  This 
refers  to  the  first  laying  out  of  a  plantation,  which  will 
afterwards  continue  fruitful  for  years  by  very  sim- 
ple j)r()cesses  of  renewal.  When  thoroughly  ripe  the 
cane  is  of  a  light  golden  yellow,  streaked  here  and 
there  with  red.  The  top  is  dark  green,  with  long 
narrow  leaves  depending,  —  very  much  like  those  of 
the  corn  stalk,  —  from  the  centre  of  which  shoots  up- 
wards a  silvery  stem  a  couple  of  feet  in  height,  and 
from  its  tip  grows  a  white  fringed  plume,  of  a  delicate 
lilac  hue.  The  effect  of  a  large  field  at  its  maturity, 
lying  under  a  torrid  sun  and  gently  yielding  to  the 
breeze,  is  very  fine,  a  picture  to  live  in  the  memory 
ever  after.  In  the  competition  between  the  prod- 
ucts of  beet-root  sugar  and  that  from  sugar-cane, 


FERTILITY  OF  CUBAN  SOIL. 


51 


the  former  controls  the  market,  because  it  can  be  pro- 
duced at  a  cheaper  rate,  besides  which  its  production 
is  stimulated  by  nearly  all  of  the  European  states 
through  the  means  of  liberal  subsidies  both  to 
the  farmer  and  to  the  manufacturer.  Beet  sugar, 
however,  does  not  possess  so  high  a  percentage  of 
true  saccharine  matter  as  does  the  product  of  the 
cane,  the  latter  seeming  to  be  nature's  most  direct 
mode  of  supplying  us  with  the  article.  The  Cuban 
planters  have  one  advantage  over  all  other  sugar- 
cane producing  countries,  in  the  great  and  inexhaust- 
ible fertility  of  the  soil  of  the  island.  For  instance : 
one  to  two  hogsheads  of  sugar  to  the  acre  is  consid- 
ered a  good  yield  in  Jamaica,  but  in  Cuba  three  hogs- 
heads is  the  average.  Fertilizing  of  ?.ny  sort  is  rarely 
employed  in  the  cane-fields,  while  in  beet  farming  it  is 
the  principal  agent  of  success. 

Though  the  modern  machinery,  as  lately  adopted 
on  the  plantations,  is  very  expensive,  still  the  result 
achieved  by  it  is  so  much  superior  to  that  of  the  old 
methods  of  manufacture  that  the  small  planters  are 
being  driven  from  the  market.  Slave  labor  cannot 
compete  with  machinery.  The  low  price  of  sugar 
renders  economy  imperative  in  all  branches  of  the 
business,  in  order  to  leave  a  margin  for  profit.  A 
planter  informed  the  author  that  he  should  spread 
all  of  his  molasses  upon  the  cane-fields  this  year  as  a 
fertilizer,  rather  than  send  it  to  a  distant  market  and 
receive  only  what  it  cost.  He  further  said  that 
thousands  of  acres  of  sugar-cane  would  be  allowed  to 
rot  in  the  fields  this  season,  as  it  would  cost  more  to 
cut,  grind,  pack,  and  send  it  to  market  than  could  be 
realized  for  the  manufactured  article.  Had  the  price 
of  sugar  remained  this  year  at  a  figure  which  would 


52 


DUE  SOUTH, 


afford  the  planters  a  fair  profit,  it  might  have  been 
the  means  of  tiding  over  the  chasm  of  bankruptcy 
which  has  long  stared  them  in  the  face,  and  upon  the 
brink  of  which  they  now  stand.  But  with  a  more 
than  average  crop,  both  as  to  quantity  and  quality, 
whether  to  gather  it  or  not  is  a  problem.  Under 
these  circumstances  it  is  difficult  to  say  what  is  to 
become,  financially,  of  the  people  of  Cuba.  Sugar 
is  their  great  staple,  but  all  business  has  been  equally 
depressed  upon  the  island,  under  the  bane  of  civil 
wars,  extortionate  taxation,  and  oppressive  rule. 

If  you  visit  Cienfuegos  you  will  take  rooms  at  the 
Hotel  Union,  as  being  the  least  objectionable  of  the 
two  public  houses  which  the  city  contains,  and  there 
you  will  make  the  acquaintance  of  Jane,  who  is  an 
institution  in  herself.  Indeed,  she  will  doubtless 
board  your  ship  when  it  first  arrives,  so  as  to  en- 
lighten you  concerning  the  excellences  of  the  Union 
over  its  rival  establishment,  which  will  also  be  sure 
to  be  represented.  Jane  is  interpreter  and  gen- 
eral factotum  of  that  delectable  posada,  the  Union, 
and  being  the  only  one  in  the  house  who  speaks 
either  French  or  English,  she  becomes  an  important 
factor  in  your  calculations.  Jane's  nationality  is  a 
pleasing  mystery,  but  she  may  be  classed  as  a  Por- 
tuguese quadroon.  Venus  did  not  preside  at  her 
birth,  but,  by  means  of  the  puff-ball  and  egg-shell 
powder,  she  strives  to  harmonize  her  mottled  features. 
Being  interpreter, waitress,  hotel-runner,  and  chamber- 
maid, she  is  no  idler,  and  fully  earns  the  quarter 
eagle  you  naturally  hand  her  at  leave-taking.  In 
visiting  the  neighboring  sugar  plantation  Jane  acts 
as  your  guide,  on  which  occasion  her  independence 
will  be  sure  to  challenge  admiration.    She  salutes 


AN  ORIGINAL  CHARACTER. 


53 


slave  or  master  with  equal  familiarity,  conducts  you 
through  eacli  process  of  the  elaborate  works,  from 
the  engine  to  the  crushing  mill,  and  so  on,  until  you 
reach  the  centrifugal  machine,  where  the  glistening 
crystals  of  pure  sugar  fall  into  an  open  receptacle 
ready  for  packing  and  shipment.  Slie  takes  you  into 
the  slave-quarters  among  the  pickaninnies,  hens,  pigs, 
and  pigeons,  looking  on  blandly  and  chewing  huge 
pieces  of  cane  while  you  distribute  the  bright  ten 
cent  pieces  with  which  you  filled  your  pocket  at  start- 
ing. If  Jane  slyly  pinches  a  papoose  and  causes  it  to 
yell,  it  is  only  for  fun ;  she  means  no  harm,  though 
the  dusky  mite  gets  smartly  slapped  by  its  mother 
for  misbehaving.  The  cabin  floor  of  bare  earth  is 
sure  to  be  covered  with  these  little  naked,  sprawling 
objects,  like  ants.  On  the  way  back  to  town  Jane 
orders  the  postilion  to  drive  into  the  private  grounds 
of  a  palatial  Cuban  residence,  where  she  boldly  an- 
nounces herself  and  party  to  the  proprietor  in  good 

rolling  Spanish.    It  is  the  home  of  Senor  N  ,  a 

wealthy  merchant  of  the  city.  We  are  received  as 
though  we  belonged  to  the  Yoyi\\  family.  The  hos- 
pitable owner  speaks  English  fluently,  and  answers 
our  thousand  and  one  questions  with  tireless  courtesy, 
takes  us  into  his  superb  fruit  garden  (of  vvhich  more 
anon),  then  introduces  us  to  liis  domestic  quarters, 
wliere  everything  appears  refined,  faultlessly  neat, 
and  tasteful.  If  you  go  to  the  railroad  station,  as 
usual  the  evening  before  departure,  in  order  to  secure 
tickets  and  get  your  baggage  labeled,  —  for  the  cars 
start  in  the  morning  before  daylight,  —  Jane  will  ac- 
company you,  riding  by  your  side  in  the  victoria. 
Excuse  her  if  she  orders  the  calash  thrown  back,  as 
she  appears  bonnetless  in  a  loud,  theatrical  costume, 


54 


DUE  SOUTH. 


trimmed  with  red  and  yellow,  and  carrying  a  bouquet 
in  her  freckled  hands.  It  is  her  opportunity,  and 
she  looks  triumphantly  at  the  street  loungers  in 
passing.  If  you  are  charged  on  your  bill  a  Del- 
monico  price  for  a  mythical  lunch  to  be  taken  with 
you  on  the  journey  to  Matanzas,  and  which  Jane  has 
forgotten  to  put  up,  pay  without  wrangling ;  it  saves 
time  and  temper. 

The  tropical  garden  which  we  visited  just  outside 
of  Cienfuegos  embraced  a  remarkable  variety  of  trees, 
including  some  thrifty  exotics.  Here  the  mango, 
with  its  peach-like  foliage,  was  bending  to  the  ground 
with  the  weight  of  its  ripening  fruit;  the  alligator 
pear  was  marvelously  beautiful  in  its  full  blossom, 
suggesting,  in  form  and  color,  the  passion-flower ; 
the  soft  delicate  foliage  of  the  tamarind  was  like  our 
sensitive  plant ;  the  banana  trees  were  in  full  bear- 
ing, the  deep  green  fruit  (it  is  ripened  and  turns 
yellow  ofif  the  tree)  being  in  clusters  of  a  hundred, 
more  or  less,  tipped  at  the  same  time  by  a  single, 
pendent,  glutinous  bud  nearly  as  large  as  a  pineapple. 
The  date-palm,  so  suggestive  of  the  far  East,  and  the 
only  one  we  had  seen  in  Cuba,  was  represented  by  a 
choice  specimen,  imported  in  its  youth.  There  was 
also  the  star-apple  tree,  remarkable  for  its  uniform 
and  graceful  shape,  full  of  the  green  fruit,  with  here 
and  there  a  ripening  specimen ;  so,  also,  was  the 
favorite  zapota,  its  rust3^-coated  fruit  hanging  in 
tempting  abundance.  From  low,  broad-spreading 
trees  depended  the  grape-fruit,  as  large  as  an  infant's 
head  and  yellow  as  gold,  while  the  orange,  lime,  and 
lemon  trees,  bearing  blossoms,  green  and  ripe  fruit  all 
together,  met  the  eye  at  every  turn,  and  filled  the 
garden  with  fragrance.     The  cocoanut  palm,  with 


THE  BANANA, 


65 


its  tall,  straight  stem  and  clustering  fruit,  dominated 
all  the  rest.  Giiava,  fig,  custard-apple,  and  biead- 
fruit  trees,  all  were  in  bearing.  Our  hospitable  host 
plucked  freely  of  the  choicest  for  the  benefit  of  his 
chance  visitors.  Was  there  ever  such  a  fruit  garden 
before,  or  elsewhere  ?  It  told  of  fertility  of  soil  and 
deliciousness  of  climate,  of  care,  judgment,  and  liberal 
expenditure,  all  of  which  combined  hnd  turned  these 
half  a  dozen  acres  of  land  into  a  Gan  Eden.  Through 
this  orchafd  of  Hesperides  we  were  accompanied  also 
by  the  proprietor's  two  lovely  children,  under  nine 
years  of  age,  with  such  wealth  of  promise  in  their 
large  black  eyes  and  sweet  faces  as  to  fix  them  on  our 
memory  with  photographic  fidelity. 

Before  leaving  the  garden  we  returned  witli  our 
intelligent  host  once  more  to  examine  his  beautiful 
specimens  of  the  banana,  which,  with  its  sister  fiuit 
tlie  plantain,  forms  so  important  a  staple  of  food  in 
Cuba  and  throughout  all  tropical  regions.  It  seems 
that  the  female  banana  tree  bears  more  fruit  than 
the  male,  but  not  so  large.  The  average  clusters  of 
the  former  comprise  here  about  one  hundred,  but  the 
latter  rarely  bears  over  sixty  or  seventy  distinct  speci- 
mens of  the  cucumber-shaped  product.  From  the 
centre  of  its  large  broad  leaves,  which  gather  at  the 
top,  when  it  has  reached  the  height  of  twelve  or 
fifteen  feet  there  springs  fortli  a  large  purple  bud  ten 
inches  long,  shaped  like  a  huge  acorn,  though  more 
pointed.  This  cone  hangs  suspended  from  a  strong 
stem,  upon  which  a  leaf  unfolds,  displaying  a  cluster 
of  young  fruit.  As  soon  as  these  are  large  enough 
to  support  the  heat  of  the  sun  and  the  chill  of  the 
rain,  this  sheltering  leaf  drops  off,  and  another  un- 
folds, exposing  its  little  brood  of  fruit ;  and  so  the 


56 


DUE  SOUTH. 


process  goes  on  until  six  or  eight  lings  of  young 
bananas  are  started,  forming,  as  we  have  said,  bunches 
numbering  from  seventy  to  a  hundred.  The  banana 
is  a  herbaceous  plant,  and  after  fruiting  its  top  dies; 
but  it  annually  sprouts  up  again  fresli  from  the  roots. 
From  the  unripe  fruit,  dried  in  the  sun,  a  palatable 
and  nutritious  flour  is  made. 

No  matter  where  one  may  be,  in  town  or  country, 
in  the  east  or  west  end  of  the  island,  Santiago  or 
Havana,  the  lottery-ticket  vender  is  th'^re.  Men, 
women,  and  children  are  employed  to  peddle  the 
tickets,  cripples  especially  being  pressed  into  the  ser- 
vice in  the  hope  of  exciting  the  synipatbic^s  of  strangers 
and  thus  creating  purchasers.  It  may  be  said  to  be 
about  the  only  prosperous  business  at  present  going 
on  in  this  thoroughly  demoralized  island.  Half  the 
people  seem  to  think  of  nothing  else,  and  talk  of 
dreaming  that  such  and  such  combinations  of  num- 
bers will  bring  good  luck.  Some  will  buy  only  even 
numbers,  others  believe  that  the  odd  ones  stand  the 
best  chance  of  winning;  in  short,  all  the  gambling 
fancies  are  brought  to  bear  upon  these  lotteries. 
Enough  small  prizes  are  doled  out  to  the  purchasers 
of  tickets,  by  the  cunning  management,  to  keep  hope 
and  expectation  ever  alive  in  their  hearts,  and  to  coax 
out  of  them  their  last  dollar  in  further  investments. 
"  If,"  said  a  native  resident  of  Matanzas  to  us,  these 
lotteries,  all  of  which  are  presided  over  by  the  officials, 
are  honestly  conducted,  they  are  the  one  honest  thing 
in  which  this  government  is  concerned.  Venal  in 
everything  else,  why  should  they  be  conscientious  in 
this  gambling  game?"  No  one  believes  in  the  in- 
tegrity of  the  government,  but,  strange  to  say,  the 
masses  have  implicit  faith  in  the  lotteries. 


CHINESE  COOLIES. 


67 


At  one  corner  of  our  hotel  ia  Cienfiiegos,  there  sat 
upon  the  sidewalk  of  the  street  a  bhnd  beggar,  a 
Chinese  coolie,  whose  miserable,  poverty-stricken  ap- 
pearance elicited  a  daily  trifle  from  the  habitues  of 
the  house.  Early  one  morning  we  discovered  this 
representative  of  want  and  misery  purchasing  a  lot- 
tery ticket.  They  are  so  divided  and  subdivided,  it 
appears,  as  to  come  even  within  the  means  of  the 
street  beggars  !  Speaking  of  blindness,  the  multipli- 
city of  people  thus  afflicted,  especially  among  negroes 
and  coolies,  led  to  the  enumeration  of  those  met  with 
in  a  single  day  ;  the  result  was  seventeen.  On  inquiry 
it  was  found  that  inflammation  of  the  eyes  is  as  com- 
mon here  as  in  Egypt,  and  that  it  runs  a  rapid  and 
fatal  course,  —  fatal  to  the  sight  after  having  once 
attacked  a  victim,  unless  it  receives  prompt,  judicious, 
and  scientific  treatment. 

The  Chinese  coolies,  w^ho  are  encountered  in  all 
parts  of  the  island,  but  more  especially  in  the  cities, 
are  almost  invariably  decrepit,  poverty-stricken  men- 
dicants, and  very  frequently  blind.  They  are  such 
as  have  been  through  their  eight  years'  contract,  and 
have  been  brought  to  their  present  condition  by  ill- 
treatment,  insufficient  food,  and  the  troubles  incident 
to  the  climate.  In  the  majority  of  cases  these  coolies 
have  been  cheated  out  of  the  trifling  amount  of 
wages  promised  to  them,  for  there  is  no  law  in  Cuba 
to  which  they  can  appeal.  There  are  laws  which 
will  afford  the  negro  justice  if  resorted  to  under  cer- 
tain circumstances,  but  none  for  the  coolies.  There 
are  some  few  Chinamen  who  have  survived  every 
exigency,  and  are  now  engaged  in  keeping  small 
stores  or  fruit  stands,  cigar  making,  and  other  light 
employments,  their  only  hope  being  to  gain  money 


58 


DUE  SOUTH. 


enough  to  carry  them  back  to  their  native  land,  and 
to  have  a  few  dollars  left  to  support  them  after  get- 
ting there.  There  are  no  Chinese  laundries  in  Cuba  ; 
John  cannot  compete  with  the  black  women  in  this 
occupation,  for  they  are  natural  washers  and  ironers. 
John  is  only  a  skillful  imitator.  He  proves  most 
successful  in  the  cigarette  and  cigar  factories,  where 
his  deft  fingers  can  turn  out  a  more  uniform  and 
handsome  article  than  the  Cubans  themselves.  Ma- 
chinery is  fast  doing  away  with  hand-made  cigarettes. 
At  the  famous  establishment  of  La  Honradez,  in 
Havana,  which  we  visited  some  weeks  later,  one 
machine  was  seen  in  operation  which  produced  ten 
thousand  complete  cigarettes  each  hour,  or  a  million 
per  day  !  Still  this  same  establishment  employed 
some  fifty  Chinese  in  order  to  supply  its  trade  with 
the  hand-made  article,  for  home  consumption.  The 
Cubans  prefer  to  unroll  and  readjust  a  cigarette  before 
lighting  it.  This  cannot  be  done  with  the  machine- 
made  article,  which  completes  its  product  by  a  pasting 
process.  The  three  machines  (an  American  patent) 
at  the  Honradez  factory  turn  out  three  millions  of 
cigarettes  per  day,  and  this  is  in  addition  to  those 
which  are  hand-made  by  the  Chinese. 

The  landlord  of  the  Hotel  Union,  at  Cienfuegos, 
will  give  you  plenty  of  fruit  and  cheap  Cataline  wine, 
but  the  meat  which  is  served  is  poor  and  consists 
mostly  of  birds.  Any  other  which  may  be  set  before 
you  will  hardly  be  found  to  be  a  success,  but  then 
one  does  not  crave  much  substantial  food  in  this  cli- 
mate. There  is  a  small  wild  pigeon  which  forms  a 
considerable  source  of  food  in  Cuba,  and  which  breeds 
several  times  in  a  year.  They  are  snared  and  shot 
in  large  numbers  for  the  table,  but  do  not  show  any 


SUNDAY  IN  CIENFUEGOS, 


59 


signs  of  being  exterminated.  Ducks  and  water-fowl 
generally  abound,  and  ai-e  depended  upon  to  eke  out 
the  short  supply  of  w^hat  w^e  term  butcher's  meat. 
Three  quarters  of  the  people  never  partake  of  other 
meat  than  pigeons,  poultry,  and  wild  ducks.  Eggs 
are  little  used  as  food,  being  reserved  for  hatching 
purposes.  All  families  in  the  country  and  many  in 
the  cities  make  a  business  of  raising  poultry,  but  the 
product  is  a  bird  of  small  dimensions,  not  half  the 
size  of  our  common  domestic  fowls.  They  are  very 
cheap,  but  they  are  also  very  poor.  The  practice  is  to 
keep  them  alive  until  they  are  required  for  the  table, 
so  that  they  are  killed,  picked,  and  eaten,  all  in  the 
same  hour,  and  are  in  consequence  very  tough.  As 
the  climate  permits  of  hens  hatching  every  month  in 
the  year,  the  young  are  constantly  coming  forward, 
and  one  mother  annually  produces  several  broods ; 
chickens,  like  tropical  fruits,  are  perennial. 

Sunday  is  no  more  a  day  of  rest  in  Cienfuegos 
than  it  is  in  other  Roman  Catholic  countries  ;  indeed, 
it  seemed  to  be  distinguished  only  by  an  increase  of 
revelry,  the  activity  of  the  billinrd  saloons,  the  noisj?- 
persistency  of  the  lottery-ticket  venders,  the  boister- 
ousness  of  masquerade  processions,  and  a  general 
public  rollicking.  The  cit}^  is  not  large  enough  to 
support  a  bull-ring,  but  cock-pits  are  to  be  found  all 
over  the  island,  and  the  Sabbath  is  the  chosen  day 
for  their  exhibitions.  It  must  be  a  very  small  and 
very  poor  country  town  in  Cuba  which  has  not  its 
cock-pit.  The  inveterate  gambling  propensities  of 
the  people  find  vent  also  at  dominoes,  cards,  checkers, 
and  chess  in  the  bar-rooms,  every  marble  table  being 
in  requisition  for  the  purpose  of  the  games  on  Sun- 
days.   Having  noticed  the  sparse  attendance  at  the 


60 


DUE  SOUTH. 


cathedral,  we  remarked  to  Jane  that  the  church  was 
quite  empty,  whereupon  she  replied  v/ith  a  significant 
leer,  True,  Senor,  but  the  jail  is  full."  More  than 
once  an  underlying  vein  of  sarcasm  was  observed  in 
the  very  pertinent  remarks  of  which  Jane  was  so  hap- 
pily delivered. 

There  are  comparatively  few  slaves  to  be  found  on 
the  plantations  or  elsewhere  in  the  vicinity  of  Cien- 
fuegos :  in  fact,  slavery  is  rapidly  disappearing  from 
the  island.  Slave  labor  is  more  costly  than  any 
other,  all  things  considered,"  said  a  sugar  planter  to 
us.  I  do  not  own  one  to-day,  but  I  have  owned 
and  worked  six  hundred  at  a  time,"  he  added.  We 
pay  no  tax  on  the  laborers  we  hire,  but  on  slaves  we 
pay  a  heavy  head-tax  annually."  An  edict  has  been 
promulgated  by  the  home  government,  which  went 
into  force  last  year,  and  which  frees  one  slave  in 
every  four  annually,  so  that  on  January  1,  1888,  all 
will  have  become  free.  In  the  mean  lime  the  com- 
mercial value  of  slaves  has  so  decreased  in  view  of 
their  near  emancipation  that  they  are  not  appraised 
on  an  average  at  over  fifty  or  sixty  dollars  each.  The 
law  has  for  a  period  of  many  year3  provided  that  any 
slave  who  pays  to  his  master  his  appraised  value 
shall  at  once  receive  his  free  papers.  Many  purchase 
their  liberty  under  this  law,  and  then  hire  themselves 
to  the  same  master  or  to  some  other,  as  they  may 
choose,  —  at  low  wages,  to  be  sure,  but  including  food 
and  shelter.  Slaves  have  always  been  entitled  by 
law  in  Cuba  to  hold  individual  property  independent 
of  their  masters,  and  there  are  few  smart  ones  who 
have  not  accumulated  more  or  less  pecuniary  means 
during  their  servitude.  They  have  had  no  expenses 
to  meet  in  the  way  of  supporting  themselves.  That 


NEGRO  SLAVERY  TO-DAY. 


61 


has  devolved  upon  their  owners,  so  that  whatever 
money  they  have  realized  by  the  several  ways  open 
to  them  has  been  clear  profit.  Many  slaves  have 
anticipated  the  period  of  their  legal  release  from 
servitude,  and  more  will  do  so  during  the  present 
year.  We  also  heard  of  planters  who,  realizing  the 
inevitable,  have  manumitted  the  few  slaves  whom 
they  still  held  in  bondage,  and  hiring  them  at  merely 
nominal  wages,  believed  they  saved  money  by  the 
operation. 

It  will  be  seen,  therefore,  that  slavery  as  an  insti- 
tution here  is  virtually  at  an  end.  Low  w^^ges  will 
prevail,  and  this  is  necessary  to  enable  the  planters 
to  compete  with  the  beet  sugar  producers  of  Europe. 
In  truth,  it  is  a  question  how  long  they  will  be  able  to 
do  so  at  any  rate  of  wages.  The  modern  machinery 
being  so  generally  adopted  by  the  sugar-cane  planters, 
while  remarkably  successful,  both  as  to  the  quality 
and  the  quantity  of  the  juice  it  expresses  from  the 
cane,  not  only  is  expensive  in  first  cost,  but  it  requires 
more  intelligent  laborers  than  were  found  serviceable 
with  the  old  process.  To  supply  the  places  of  the 
constantly  diminishing  slaves,  emigrants,  as  they 
were  called,  have  heretofore  been  introduced  from  the 
Canary  Islands  ;  men  willing  to  contract  for  a  brief 
period  of  years,  say  eight  or  ten,  as  laborers,  and  at 
moderate  wages.  These  people  liave  proved  to  be 
good  plantation  hands,  though  not  so  well  able  to 
bear  the  great  heat  of  the  sun  as  were  the  negroes ; 
otherwise  they  were  superior  to  them,  and  better  in 
all  respects  than  the  Chinese  coolies,  who  as  workers 
on  the  plantations  have  proved  to  be  utter  failures. 
The  mortality  among  these  Mongolians,  as  we  learned 
from  good  authority,  had  reached  as  high  as  sixty- 


62 


DUE  SOUTH. 


seven  per  cent,  within  eight  years  of  their  date  of 
landing  in  Cuba,  that  being  also  the  period  of  their 
term  of  contract.  None  have  been  introduced  into 
the  island  for  several  years.  This  coolie  importation, 
like  the  slave-trade  with  Africa,  was  a  fraud  and  an 
outrage  upon  humanity,  and  never  paid  any  one,  even 
in  a  mercenary  point  of  view,  except  the  shipowners 
who  brought  the  deceived  natives  from  the  coast  of 
China.  Slavery  in  Cuba  and  slavery  in  our  country 
were  always  quite  a  different  thing,  and  strange  to 
say  the  laws  of  the  Spanish  government  were  far 
more  favoi'able  and  humane  towards  the  victims  of 
enforced  labor  than  were  those  established  in  our 
Southern  States.  When  the  American  negro  ceased 
to  be  a  slave,  he  ceased  to  cultivate  the  soil  for  his 
master  only  to  cultivate  it  for  himself.  Not  so  in  the 
tropics.  The  Cuban  negro,  in  the  first  place,  is  of  a 
far  less  intelligent  type  than  the  colored  people  in 
the  States ;  secondly,  the  abundance  of  natural  food 
productions  in  the  low  latitudes,  such  as  fruit,  fish, 
and  vegetables,  requires  of  the  negro  only  to  pluck 
and  to  eat ;  clothing  and  shelter  are  scarcely  needed, 
and  virtually  cost  nothing  where  one  may  sleep  in 
the  open  air  without  danger  every  night  in  the  year; 
and  finally,  the  negro  of  the  tropics  will  not  work 
unless  he  is  compelled  to. 

There  is  a  certain  class  of  the  Spanish  slaveholders 
who  have  always  fought  against  negro  emancipation 
in  any  form,  —  fought  against  manifest  destiny  as 
well  as  against  sound  principles,  fought  indeed  against 
their  own  clear  interest,  so  wedded  were  they  to  the 
vile  institution  of  slavery.  Yet  to  every  thinking 
man  on  the  island,  it  is  clearly  apparent  that  human 
slavery  in  Cuba,  as  everywhere  else,  has  proved  to  be 


A  SLAVE  MUTINY. 


63 


a  disturber  of  tlie  public  peace,  and  has  retarded 
more  than  anything  else  the  material  and  moral  prog- 
ress of  the  entire  people.  It  is  but  a  short  time 
since  that  the  editor  of  a  Havana  newspaper,  the 

Revista  Economiea,"  was  imprisoned  in  Moro  Cas- 
tle, and  without  even  the  pretense  of  a  trial  afterwards 
banished  from  the  island,  because  he  dared  to  point 
out  the  fact  in  print  that  the  freeing  of  the  slaves 
would  prove  a  mutual  benefit  to  man  and  master, 
besides  being  a  grand  act  of  humanity.  Two  years 
since  the  slaves  on  a  large  plantation  near  G nines 
refused  to  work  on  a  holiday  which  had  always  here- 
tof(jre  been  granted  to  them ;  whereupon  the  soldiery 
were  called  in  to  suppress  what  was  called  a  mutiny 
of  the  blacks,  resulting  in  nine  negroes  being  shot 
dead,  and  many  others  put  in  chains  to  be  scourged 
at  leisure.  Doomed  as  we  have  shown  slavery  to  be, 
still  it  dies  hard  in  Cuba. 

In  the  vicinity  of  Cienfuegos,  Santiago,  and  Trini- 
dad, in  the  mountain  regions  of  the  eastern  district, 
there  are  many  lawless  people,  —  banditti,  in  fart, 
who  make  war  for  plunder  both  upon  native  and 
foreign  travelers,  even  resorting  in  some  cases  to 
holding  prisoners  for  ransoms.  Several  aggravating 
instances  of  the  latter  chaiacter  came  to  our  knowl- 
edge while  we  were  on  the  spot.  Since  these  notes 
were  commenced  five  of  these  robbers  have  been  cap- 
tured, including  the  leader  of  the  band  to  which  they 
belonged,  a  notorious  outlaw  named  Clemente  Mar- 
tinez. They  were  taken  by  means  of  a  stratagem, 
whereby  they  were  decoyed  into  an  ambush,  sur- 
rounded, and  captured  red-handed,  as  they  fought 
furiously,  knowing  that  they  had  no  mercy  to  expect 
at  the  hands  of  the  soldiers.    It  was  the  civil  guard 


64 


DUE  SOUTIL 


at  Rancho  Veloz  who  made  this  successful  raid  into 
the  hills,  and  every  one  of  the  prisoners  was  summa- 
rily shot.  Such  off-hand  punishment  is  dangerous, 
but  in  this  instance  it  was  no  more  prompt  than  just. 
It  is  necessary,  therefore,  to  carry  arms  for  self-defense 
upon  the  roads  in  some  parts  of  the  island,  and  even 
the  countrymen  wear  swords  when  bringing  produce 
to  market.  Residents  having  occasion  to  go  any  dis- 
tance inland  take  a  well-armed  guard  with  them,  to 
prevent  being  molested  by  the  desperate  refugees  who 
lurk  in  the  hill  country.  Undoubtedly  many  of 
these  lawless  bands  are  composed  of  former  revolu- 
tionists, who  are  driven  to  extremes  by  want  of  food 
and  the  necessities  of  life. 

Our  journey  was  continued  from  Cienfuegos  to 
Havana,  by  way  of  Matanzas,  crossing  the  island 
nearly  at  right  angles.  The  traveler  plunges  at 
once  by  this  route  into  the  midst  of  luxuriant  trop- 
ical nature,  where  the  vegetation  is  seen  to  special 
advantage,  characterized  by  a  great  variety  of  cncti 
and  parasitic  growth,  flowering  trees  and  ever  grace- 
ful palms,  besides  occasional  ceibas  of  immense  size. 
Though  the  landscape,  someliow,  was  sad  and  melan- 
choly, it  gave  rise  to  bright  and  interesting  thouglits 
in  the  observer:  doubtless  the  landscape,  like  human- 
ity, has  its  moods.  Vegetation,  unlike  mankind,  seems 
here  never  to  grow  old,  never  to  falter ;  crop  succeeds 
crop,  harvest  follows  harvest ;  nature  is  inexhausti- 
ble,—  it  is  an  endless  cycle  of  abundance.  Miles 
upon  miles  of  the  bright,  golden-green  sugar-cane  lie 
in  all  directions,  among  which,  here  and  there,  is 
seen  the  little  cluster  of  low  buildings  constituting 
the  negroes'  quarters  attached  to  each  plantation,  and 
near  by  is  the  tall  white  chimney  of  the  sugar- mill. 


PLANTATION  SCENES. 


65 


emitting  its  thick  volume  of  wreathing  smoke,  like 
tlie  funnel  of  a  steamboat.  A  little  on  one  side  stands 
the  planter's  house,  low  and  white,  surrounded  by 
beautiful  shade  trees  and  clustering  groups  of  flowers. 
Scores  of  dusky  Africans  give  life  to  the  scene,  and 
the  sturdy  overseer,  mounted  on  his  little  Cuban 
pony,  dashes  back  and  forth  to  keep  all  hands  advan- 
tageously at  work.  One  large  gang  is  busy  cutting 
the  tall  cane  with  sharp,  sword-like  knives  ;  some 
are  loading  the  stalks  upon  ox-carts  ;  some  are  driv- 
ing loads  to  the  mill ;  some  feeding  the  cane  between 
the  great  steel  crushers,  beneath  which  pours  forth 
a  ceaseless  jelly-like  stream,  to  be  conducted  by  iron 
pipes  to  the  boilers  ;  men,  women,  and  children  are 
spreading  the  crushed  refuse  to  dry  in  the  sun,  after 
which  it  will  be  used  for  fuel.  Coopers  are  heading 
up  hogsheads  full  of  the  manufactured  article,  and 
others  are  rolling  up  empty  ones  to  be  filled. 

Some  years  ago,  when  the  author  first  visited  Cuba, 
the  overseer  was  never  seen  without  his  long,  cutting 
whip,  as  well  as  his  sword  and  pistols.  The  latter  he 
wears  to-day,  but  the  whip  is  n^iseen.  The  fact  is, 
the  labor  on  the  plantations  is  now  so  nearly  free 
labor  that  there  is  little  if  any  downright  cruelty 
exercised  as  of  yore.  Or,  rather,  we  will  qualify  the 
remark  by  saying  that  there  has  been  a  vast  improve- 
ment in  this  respect  on  the  side  of  humanity.  The 
shadow  of  the  picture  lies  in  the  past.  One  could 
not  but  recall  in  imagination  the  horrors  which  so 
long  characterized  these  plantations.  The  blood- 
thirsty spirit  of  the  Spanish  slaveholders  had  free 
scope  here  for  centuries,  during  which  time  the  in- 
vaders sacrificed  the  entire  aboriginal  race  ;  and  since 
then  millions  of  Africans  have  been  slowly  murdered 

5 


66 


DUE  SOUTH. 


by  overwork,  insufficient  food,  and  the  lash,  simply 
to  fill  the  pockets  of  their  rapacious  masters  with 
gold.  Few  native  Cubans  are  sugar-planters.  These 
estates  are  almost  universally  owned  and  carried  on 
by  Spaniards  from  the  European  peninsula,  or  other 
foreigners,  including  Englishmen  and  Americans. 

Occasionally,  in  the  trip  across  the  island,  we 
passed  through  a  crude  but  picturesque  little  hamlet 
having  the  unmistakable  stamp  of  antiquity,  with 
low  straggling  houses  built  of  rude  frames,  covered 
at  side  and  roof  with  palm  bark  and  leaves ;  chim- 
neys there  vrere  none,  —  none  even  in  the  cities, 
—  charcoal  only  being  used  for  cooking  purposes, 
{.nd  which  is  performed  in  the  open  air.  About  the 
door  of  the  long,  rambling  posada,  a  dozen  or  more 
horses  were  seen  tied  to  a  long  bar,  erected  for  the 
purpose,  but  no  wheeled  vehicles  were  there.  The 
roads  are  only  fit  for  equestrians,  and  hardly  passable 
even  for  them.  At  rare  intervals  one  gets  a  glimpse 
of  the  volante,  now  so  generally  discarded  in  the 
cities,  and  which  suggested  Dr.  Holmes's  old  chaise, 
prepared  to  tumble  to  pieces  in  all  parts  at  the  same 
time.  The  people,  the  cabins,  and  the  horses,  are 
all  stained  with  the  red  dust  of  the  soil,  recalling  the 
Western  Indians  in  their  war  paint.  This  pigment, 
or  colored  dirt,  penetrates  and  adheres  to  everything, 
filling  the  cars  and  decorating  the  passengers  with  a 
dingy  brick  color.  It  was  difficult  to  realize  that 
these  comparatively  indifferent  places  through  which 
we  glided  so  swiftly  were  of  importance  and  the 
permanent  abode  of  any  one.  When  the  cars  stop  at 
the  small  way-stations,  they  are  instantly  invaded  by 
lottery-ticket  sellers,  boys  with  tempting  fruit,  green 
cocoanuts,  ripe  oranges,  and  bananas,  —  all  cheap  for 


PICTURES  OF  THE  INTERIOR. 


67 


c:ish.  And  here  too  is  the  guava  seller,  with  neatly 
sealed  cans  of  the  favorite  preserve.  Indeed,  it  seems 
to  rain  guava  jelly  in  Cuba.  Others  offer  country 
cheese,  soft  and  white,  with  rolls,  while  in  a  shanty 
beside  the  road  hot  coffee  and  blue  ruin  "  are  dealt 
out  to  thirsty  souls  by  a  ponderous  mulatto  woman. 
There  are  always  a  plenty  of  the  denizens  of  the 
place,  in  slovenly  dresses  and  slouched  hats,  hands 
in  pockets,  and  puffing  cigarettes,  who  do  the  heavy 
standing-round  business.  Stray  dogs  hang  about  the 
car-wheels  and  track  to  pick  up  the  crumbs  which 
passengers  throw  away  from  their  lunch-baskets. 
Just  over  the  wild-pineapple  hedge  close  at  hand, 
half  a  score  of  naked  negro  children  hover  round 
the  door  of  a  low  cabin  ;  the  mother,  fat  and  shining 
in  her  one  garment,  gazes  with  arms  akimbo  at  the 
scene  of  which  she  forms  a  typical  part.  The  en- 
gineer imbibes  a  penny  drink  of  thin  Cataline  wine 
and  hastens  back  to  his  machine,  which  has  been 
taking  water  from  an  elevated  cistern  beside  the 
track,  the  bell  rings,  the  whistle  sounds,  and  we  are 
off  to  repeat  the  process  and  the  picture,  six  or  eight 
leagues  further  on.  Take  our  advice  and  don't  at- 
tempt to  make  a  meal  at  one, of  these  stations.  The 
viands  are  wretchedly  poor,  and  the  price  charged  is 
a  swindle. 

As  we  approach  Matanzas  the  scene  undergoes  a 
radical  change.  Comfortable  habitations  are  multi- 
plied, passable  roads  appear  winding  gracefully  about 
the  country,  groves  and  gardens  spring  into  view, 
with  small  and  thrifty  farms.  Superb  specimens  of 
the  royal  palm  begin  to  appear  in  abundance,  always 
suggestive  of  the  Corinthian  column.  Scattered  over 
the  hills  and  valleys  a  few  fine  cattle  are  seen  crop- 


68 


DUE  SOUTH, 


ping  the  rank  verdure.  There  is  no  greensward  in 
the  tropics,  and  hay  is  never  made.  The  scenery 
reminds  one  of  Syria  and  the  Nile. 

One  sees  some  vegetable  and  fruit  farms,  but  sugar 
raising  absorbs  nearly  every  other  interest,  the  to- 
bacco leaf  coming  next,  now  that  coffee  is  so  neg= 
lected.  The  farmer  ploughs  with  the  crooked  branch 
of  a  tree,  having  one  handle  with  which  to  guide  the 
crude  machine,  — just  such  an  instrument  as  is  used 
for  the  purpose  in  Egypt  to-day,  and  has  been  used 
there  for  thousands  of  years.  The  cattle  are  mostly 
poor,  half-starved  creatures,  —  starved  amid  a  vege- 
tation only  too  rank  and  luxuriant.  The  dairy  re- 
ceives no  attention  in  Cuba.  Butter  is  seldom  made  ; 
the  canned  article  from  this  country,  thin  and  offen- 
sive, is  made  to  answer  the  purpose.  The  climate  is 
too  hot  to  keep  butter  or  cream  without  ice,  and  that 
is  expensive.  Human  beings,  men,  women,  and  chil- 
dren, look  stunted  and  thin,  possessing,  however,  won- 
derfully fine  eyes,  large,  lustrous,  and  ebony  in  hue  ; 
eyes  that  alone  make  beauty  ;  but  the  physiogno- 
mists have  long  since  learned  that  eyes  of  themselves 
are  no  indication  of  character  or  moral  force. 

The  thermometer  had  stood  since  early  moining 
at  83°,  during  the  long  ride  from  Cienfuegos.  It 
was  hot  and  dusty.  Notwithstanding  the  ceaseless 
novelty  of  the  scene,  one  became  a  little  fatigued,  a 
little  weary  ;  but  as  we  approached  Matanzas,  the 
refreshing  air  from  off  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  suddenly 
came  to  our  relief,  full  of  a  bracing  tonic,  and  ren- 
dering all  things  tolerable.  The  sight  of  the  broad 
harbor,  lying  with  its  flickering  surface  under  the 
afternoon  sun,  was  beautiful  to  behold. 

After  all,  these  tropical  regions  lack  the  delicious 


NORTH  AND  SOUTH  CONTRASTED.  69 


freshness  of  the  greensward,  of  new  foliage,  and  the 
fine  fragrance  of  the  rural  North ;  they  need  the  in- 
vigorating sleep  of  the  seasons  from  which  to  awake 
refreshed  and  blooming.  Where  vegetation  is  grow- 
ing and  decaying  at  the  same  time,  there  can  never 
be  general  freshness  and  greenness;  eternal  summer 
lacks  interest ;  we  crave  the  frost  as  well  as  the  sun- 
shine. Compensation  follows  fast  npon  the  heels  of 
even  a  Northern  winter.  The  tropical  loveliness  of 
the  vegetation  in  this  attractive  land  indicates  what 
Cuba  should  be,  but  is  not. 

Having  accompanied  the  reader  across  many  de- 
grees of  latitude,  effecting  a  landing  and  reaching 
the  interior  of  Cuba,  let  us  now  pass  to  other  con- 
siderations of  this  interesting  and  important  island. 


CHAPTER  IV. 


The  Great  Genoese  Pilot.  —  Discovery  of  Cuba.  —  Its  Various  Names. 
—  Treatment  of  the  Natives.  —  Tobacco !  — Flora  of  the  Island.  — 
Strange  Idols.  —  Antiquity.  —  Habits  of  the  Aborigines.  —  Re- 
markable Speech  of  an  Indian  King.  —  A  Native  Entertainment. — 
Paying  Tribute.  —  Ancient  Kemains.  —  Wrong  Impression  of  Co- 
lumbus.—  First  Attempt  at  Colonization.  —  Battle  with  the  In- 
dians.—  First  Governor  of  Cuba.  —  Founding  Cities.  —  Emigra- 
tion from  Spain.  —  Conquest  of  Mexico. 

The  island  of  Cuba  was  discovered  by  the  great 
Genoese  pilot,  on  the  28th  day  of  October,  1492. 
The  continent  of  America  was  not  discovered  until 
six  years  later,  —  in  1498.  The  name  of  Columbus 
flashes  a  bright  ray  over  the  mental  darkness  of  the 
period  in  which  he  lived,  for  the  world  was  then  but 
just  awakening  from  the  dull  sleep  of  the  Middle 
Ages.  The  discovery  of  printing  heralded  the  new 
birth  of  the  republic  of  letters,  and  maritime  enter- 
prise received  a  vigorous  impulse.  The  shores  of  the 
Mediterranean,  thoroughly  explored  and  developed, 
hai  endowed  the  Italian  States  with  extraordinary 
wealth,  and  built  up  a  very  respectable  mercantile  ma- 
rine. The  Portuo^uese  mariners  were  venturino;  far- 
ther  and  farther  from  the  peninsula,  and  traded  with 
many  distant  ports  on  the  extended  coast  of  Africa. 

To  the  west  lay  what  men  supposed  to  be  an  illim- 
itable ocean,  full  of  mystery,  peril,  and  death.  A 
vague  conception  that  islands  hitherto  unknown  might 
be  met  afar  off  on  that  strange  wilderness  of  waters 
was  entertained  by  some  minds,  but  no  one  thought 


THE  GREAT  GENOESE. 


71 


of  venturing  in  search  of  them.  Columbus  alone, 
regarded  merely  as  a  brave  and  intelligent  seaman 
and  pilot,  conceived  the  idea  that  the  earth  was  spher- 
ical, and  that  the  East  Indies,  tlie  great  El  Dorado  of 
the  century,  might  be  reached  by  circumnavigating 
the  globe.  If  we  picture  to  ourselves  the  mental 
condition  of  the  age  and  the  state  of  science,  we  shall 
find  no  difficulty  in  conceiving  the  scorn  and  incre- 
dulity with  wliicli  the  theory  of  Columbus  was 
received.  We  shall  not  wonder  that  lie  was  regarded 
as  a  madman  or  as  a  fool;  we  are  not  surprised  to 
remember  that  he  encountered  repulse  upon  repulse 
as  he  journeyed  wearily  from  court  to  court,  and 
pleaded  in  vain  to  the  sovereigns  of  Europe  for  aid 
to  prosecute  his  great  design.  The  marvel  is  that 
when  door  after  door  was  closed  against  him,  when 
all  ears  were  deaf  to  his  earnest  importunities,  when 
day  by  day  the  opposition  to  his  views  increased, 
when,  weary  and  footsore,  he  was  forced  to  beg  a  bit 
of  bread  and  a  cup  of  water  for  his  fainting  and  fam- 
ishing boy  at  the  door  of  a  Spanish  convent,  his  rea- 
son did  not  give  way,  and  his  great  heart  did  not 
break  with  disappointment. 

But  he  felt  himself  to  be  the  instrument  of  a 
higher  power,  and  his  soul  was  then  as  firm  and 
steadfast  as  when,  launched  in  his  frail  caravel  upon 
the  ocean,  he  pursued  day  after  day  and  night  after 
night,  amidst  a  murmuring,  discontented,  and  even 
mutinous  crew,  his  westward  path  across  the  trackless 
waters.  No  doubt  he  believed  himself  to  be  inspired, 
or  at  least  specially  prompted  from  above.  This  was 
shown  by  his  tenacious  observance  of  all  ceremonies 
of  the  Church,  in  his  unaffected  piet}^  and  in  that 
lofty  and  solemn  enthusiasm  which  was  a  character- 


72 


DUE  SOUTH, 


istic  of  his  whole  life.  This  must  have  been  the 
secret  in  no  small  degree  of  the  power  he  exerted  so 
successfully  over  his  semi-barbarous  followers,  who 
were  more  affected  by  awe  than  by  fear.  It  was  the 
devout  and  lofty  aspect  of  their  commander  which 
controlled  his  sailors  under  circumstances  so  trying. 
We  can  conceive  of  his  previous  sorrows,  but  what 
imagination  can  form  an  adequate  conception  of  his 
hopefulness  and  gratitude  when  the  tokens  of  the 
neighborhood  of  land  first  greeted  his  senses?  What 
rapture  must  have  been  his  when  the  keel  of  his 
barque  first  grounded  on  the  shore  of  San  Salvador, 
and  he  planted  the  royal  standard  in  the  soil,  as  the 
Viceroy  and  High-Admiral  of  Spain  in  the  New 
World  !  No  matter  what  chanced  thereafter,  a  king's 
favor  or  a  king's  displeasure,  royal  largesses  or  royal 
chains,  that  moment  of  noble  exultation  was  worth  a 
lifetime  of  trials. 

Columbus  first  named  Cuba  "  Juana,"  in  honor  of 
Prince  John,  son  of  Ferdinand  and  Isabella.  Subse- 
quently the  king  named  it  Fernandina.  This  was 
changed  to  Santiago,  and  finally  to  Ave  Maria ;  but 
the  aboriginal  designation  has  never  been  lost,  Cuba 
being  its  Indian  and  only  recognized  name.  The  new- 
comers found  the  land  inhabited  by  a  most  peculiar 
race,  hospitable,  inoffensive,  timid,  fond  of  the  dance 
and  the  rude  music  of  their  own  people,  yet  naturally 
indolent,  from  the  character  of  the  climate  they  inhab- 
ited. They  had  some  definite  idea  of  God  and  heaven, 
and  were  governed  by  patriarchs  or  kings,  whose 
word  was  their  only  law,  and  whose  age  gave  them 
undisputed  precedence.  They  spoke  the  dialect  of 
the  Lucayos,  or  Bahamas,  from  which  islands  it  is 
presumed  by  historians  they  originated  ;  but  it  would 


INTRODUCTION  OF  SLAVERY, 


73 


seem  more  reasonable  to  suppose  that  both  the  people 
of  the  Bahamas  and  of  the  West  India  isles  came 
originally  from  the  mainland ;  that  is,  either  north  or 
south  of  the  Isthmus  of  Panama.  In  numbers  they 
were  vaguely  estimated  at  a  million,  a  calculation  the 
correctness  of  which  we  cannot  but  doubt.  Reliable 
local  authority,  Cubans  who  have  made  a  study  of 
the  early  history  of  the  island,  assured  the  author 
that  the  aborigines  at  the  time  of  Velasquez's  first 
settlement,  say  in  1512,  could  not  have  exceeded  four 
hundred  thousand.  They  had  but  few  weapons  of 
offense  or  defense,  and  knew  not  the  use  of  the  bow 
and  arrow.  Being  a  peaceful  race  and  having  no  wild 
animals  to  contend  with,  their  ingenuity  had  never 
been  taxed  to  invent  weapons  of  warfare  against  man 
or  beast.  The  natives  were  at  once  subjected  by 
the  new-comers,  who  reduced  them  gradually  to  an 
actual  state  of  slavery,  and  proving  hard  task-masters, 
the  poor  overworked  creatures  died  by  hundreds,  until 
they  had  nearly  disappeared.  The  home  government 
then  granted  permission  to  import  negroes  from  the 
coast  of  Africa  to  labor  upon  the  soil  and  to  seek  for 
gold,  which  was  known  to  exist  in  the  river  courses. 
Thus  commenced  the  foreign  slave-trade  of  the  West 
Indies,  King  Ferdinand  himself  sending  fifty  slaves 
from  Seville  to  labor  in  the  mines,  and  from  that  time 
this  plague  spot  upon  humanity  has  festered  on  the 
island.  It  should  be  remembered  in  this  connection 
that  previous  to  the  discoveries  of  Columbus,  negro 
slavery  had  been  reduced  to  a  system  by  the  Moors, 
and  thus  existed  in  Spain  before  the  days  of  the  great 
Genoese. 

The  Spaniards  were  not  content  with  putting  the 
aborigines  to  labor  far  beyond  their  power  of  endur- 


74 


DUE  SOUTH. 


ance  on  the  soil  where  they  were  born,  hut  shipped 
them  by  hundreds  to  Spain  to  be  sold  in  the  slave- 
market  of  Seville,  the  proceeds  being  turned  into  the 
royal  treasury.  Columbus  himself  was  the  promoter 
of  this  outrageous  return  for  the  hospitality  he  had 
received  at  the  hands  of  tlie  natives.  Irving  apolo- 
getically says  he  was  induced  to  this  course  in  order 
to  indemnify  the  sovereigns  of  Castile  and  Leon  for 
the  large  expense  his  expedition  had  been  to  them. 
The  fact  that  the  great  navigator  originated  the  slave- 
trade  in  the  New  World  cannot  be  ignored,  though  it 
detracts  in  no  small  degree  from  the  glory  of  his 
career. 

Although  the  conquerors  have  left  us  but  few  de- 
tails respecting  these  aborigines,  still  we  know  with 
certainty  from  the  narrative  of  Columbus,  and  those 
of  some  of  his  most  intelligent  followers,  that  they 
were  docile,  artless,  generous,  but  inclined  to  ease ; 
that  they  were  well-formed,  grave,  and  far  from  pos- 
sessing the  vivacity  of  the  natives  of  the  south  of 
Europe.  They  expressed  themselves  with  a  certain 
modesty  and  respect,  and  were  hospitable  to  the  last 
degree.  Reading  between  the  lines  of  the  records  of 
history,  it  is  manifest  that  after  their  own  rules  and 
estimates,  their  lives  were  chaste  and  proper,  though 
it  was  admissible  for  kings  to  have  several  wives. 
Moreover,  though  living  in  a  state  of  nudity,  they 
religiously  observed  the  decencies  of  life,  and  were 
more  outraged  by  Spanish  lasciviousness  than  can  be 
clearly  expressed.  This  debasing  trait,  together  with 
the  greed  for  gold  exhibited  by  the  new-comers,  dis- 
abused the  minds  of  the  natives  as  to  the  celestial 
origin  of  their  visitors,  a  belief  which  they  at  first 
entertained,  and  which  the  Spaniards  for  mercenary 


THE  ABORIGINES. 


75 


purposes  strove  to  impress  upon  them.  The  labor  of 
this  people  was  limited  to  the  light  work  necessary  to 
provide  for  the  prime  wants  of  life,  beyond  which 
they  knew  nothing,  while  the  bomiteoiis  climate  of 
the  tropics  spared  the  necessity  of  clothing.  They 
preferred  hunting  and  fishing  to  agriculture;  beans 
and  maize,  with  the  fruits  that  nature  gave  them  in 
abundance,  rendered  their  diet  at  once  simple,  nutri- 
tious, and  entirely  adequate  to  all  their  wants.  They 
possessed  no  quadrupeds  of  any  description,  except  a 
race  of  voiceless  dogs,  as  they  were  designated  by  the 
early  writers,  —  why  we  know  not,  since  they  bear  no 
resemblance  to  the  canine  species,  but  are  not  very 
unlike  a  large  rat.  This  animal  is  trapped  and  eaten 
by  the  people  on  the  island  to  this  day,  having  much 
of  the  flavor  and  nature  of  the  rabbit. 

The  native  Cubans  were  of  tawny  complexion  and 
beardless,  resembling  in  many  respects  the  aborigines 
of  North  America,  and  as  Columbus  described  them 
in  his  first  communication  to  his  royal  patrons,  were 
loving,  tractable,  and  peaceable ;  though  entirely 
naked,  their  manners  were  decorous  and  praise- 
worth3\"  The  wonderful  fecundity  of  the  soil,  its 
range  of  noble  mountains,  its  widespi-ead  and  well- 
watered  plains,  with  its  extended  coast  line  and  ex- 
cellent harbors,  all  challenged  the  admiration  of  the 
discoverers,  so  that  Columbus  recorded  in  his  journal 
these  words :  It  is  the  most  beautiful  island  that 
eyes  ever  beheld,  —  full  of  excellent  ports  and  pro- 
found rivers."  And  again  he  says  ;  It  excels  all 
other  countries,  as  far  as  the  day  surpasses  the  night 
in  brightness  and  splendor."  The  spot  where  the 
Spaniards  first  landed  is  supposed  to  be  on  the  east 
coast,  just  west  of  Nuevitas.     "  As  he  approached 


76 


DUE  SOUTH, 


the  island,"  says  Irving,  "  he  was  struck  with  its 
magnitude  and  the  grandeur  of  its  features :  its  airy 
mountains,  which  reminded  him  of  Sicily ;  its  fertile 
valleys  and  long  sweeping  plains,  watered  by  noble 
rivers ;  its  stately  forests  ;  its  bold  promontories  and 
stretching  headlands,  which  melted  away  into  remot- 
est distance." 

Excursions  inland  corroborated  the  favorable  im- 
pression made  by  the  country  bordering  upon  the 
coast.  The  abundance  of  yams,  Indian  corn,  and 
various  fruits,  together  with  the  plentifulness  of  wild 
cotton,  impressed  the  explorers  most  favorably.  Their 
avarice  and  greed  were  also  stimulated  by  the  belief 
that  gold  was  to  be  found  in  large  quantities,  having 
received  enough  to  convince  them  of  its  actual  pres- 
ence in  the  soil,  but  in  the  supposition  that  the  pre- 
cious metal  was  to  be  found  in  what  is  termed  paying 
quantities  they  were  mistaken. 

The  Spaniards  were  not  a  little  surprised  to  see 
the  natives  using  rude  pipes,  in  which  they  smoked  a 
certain  dried  leaf  with  apparent  gratification.  To- 
bacco was  indigenous,  and  in  the  use  of  this  now 
universal  narcotic,  these  simple  savages  indulged  in 
at  least  one  luxury.  The  flora  was  strongly  indi- 
vidualized. The  frangipanni,  tall  and  almost  leafless, 
with  thick  fleshy  shoots,  decked  with  a  small  white 
blossom,  was  very  fragrant  and  abundant ;  here  also 
was  the  wild  passion-flower,  in  which  the  Spaniards 
thought  they  beheld  the  emblems  of  our  Saviour's 
passion.  The  golden-hued  peta  was  found  beside  the 
myriad-flowering  oleander,  while  the  undergrowth  was 
braided  with  cacti  and  aloes.  The  poisonous  man- 
chineel  was  observed,  a  drop  of  w^hose  milky  juice 
will  burn  the  flesh  like  vitriol.    Here  the  invaders 


INDIAN  HOSPITALITY. 


11 


also  observed  and  noted  the  niglit-blooming  cereus. 
They  were  delighted  hy  fruits  of  which  they  knew 
not  the  names,  such  as  the  custard-apple,  mango,  za- 
pota,  banana,  and  others,  growing  in  such  rank  luxu- 
riance as  to  seem  miraculous.  We  can  well  conceive 
of  the  pleasure  and  surprise  of  these  adventurous 
strangers,  when  first  partaking  of  these  new  and  del- 
icate products.  This  was  four  hundred  years  ago, 
and  to-day  the  same  flora  and  the  same  luscious  food 
grow  there  in  similar  abundance.  Nature  in  this 
land  of  ceaseless  summer  puts  forth  strange  eager- 
ness, ever  running  to  fruits,  flowers,  and  fragrance,  as 
if  they  were  outlets  for  her  exuberant  fecundity. 

The  inoffensive,  unsuspicious  natives  shared  freely 
everything  they  possessed  with  the  invaders.  Hos- 
pitality was  with  them  an  instinct,  fostered  by  nature 
all  about  them ;  besides  which  it  was  a  considerable 
time  before  they  ceased  to  believe  their  guests  supe- 
rior beings  descended  from  the  clouds  in  their  winged 
vessels.  The  Indians  lived  in  villages  of  two  or  three 
hundred  houses,  built  of  wood  and  palm-leaf,  each 
dwelling  containing  several  families,  the  whole  of 
one  lineage,  and  all  were  governed  by  caciques  or 
kings,  the  spirit  of  the  government  being  patriarchal. 

We  are  told  by  Las  Casas,  who  accompanied  .Ve- 
lasquez in  all  his  expeditions,  that  "  their  dances  were 
graceful  and  their  singing  melodious,  while  with 
primeval  innocence  they  thought  no  harm  of  being 
clad  only  with  nature's  covering."  The  description 
of  the  gorgeous  hospitality  extended  to  these  treach- 
erous invaders  is  absolutely  touching  in  the  light  of 
our  subsequent  knowledge.  They  reared  no  sacred 
temples,  nor  did  they  seem  to  worship  idols,  and  yet 
some  few  antiquities   have  been  preseived  which 


78 


DUE  SOUTH. 


would  seem  to  indicate  that  the  natives  possessed  gro- 
tesque images,  half  liuman  and  half  animal,  like  Chi- 
nese gods  in  effect.  These  were  wrought  so  rudely 
out  of  stone  as  hardly  to  convey  any  fixed  idea ; 
vague  and  imperfect,  it  is  not  safe  to  define  them  as 
idolatrous  images.  They  might  have  been  left  here 
by  a  previous  race,  for,  as  we  are  all  aware,  respect- 
able authorities  hold  that  this  part  of  the  world  was 
originally  peopled  by  Carthaginians,  Israelites,  Egyp- 
tians, Hindoos,  and  Africans.  Columbus,  in  his  sec- 
ond voyage  to  the  West  Indies,  found  the  stern-post 
of  a  vessel  lying  on  the  shore  of  one  of  the  Leeward 
isles,  which  was  strongly  presumptive  evidence  that 
a  European  ship  had  been  in  these  waters  before  him. 
The  fact  that  at  tliis  writing,  as  already  described,- 
there  lies  in  the  harbor  of  Santiago  the  wreck  of  tlie 
old  St^  Paul,  which,  must  be  over  three  centuries  old, 
shows  how  long  a  piece  of  marine  architecture  may 
last,  submerged  in  salt  water. 

An  idol  similar  to  those  referred  to  was  dug  up  in 
Hayti,  and  is  now  believed  to  be  in  the  British  Mu- 
seum, drawings  of  which  the  author  has  seen,  and 
which  resemble  original  religious  emblems  examined 
by  liim  in  the  caves  of  Eleplianta,  at  Bombay.  This 
emblem,  carved  by  a  people  unacquainted  with  the  use 
of  edge  tools,  is  believed  by  antiquarians  to  afford  a  de- 
gree of  light  as  to  the  history  of  worship  of  the  ancient 
inhabitants  of  Hispaniola,  and  also  to  form  a  collat- 
eral support  of  the  conjecture  that  they  sprang  from 
tlie  parent  stock  of  Asia.  According  to  Las  Casas, 
the  native  Cubans  had  a  vague  tradition  of  the  for- 
mation of  the  earth,  and  of  all  created  things  ;  of  the 
deluge,  of  the  ark,  the  raven,  and  the  dove.  They 
knew  the  tradition  of  Noah  also,  according  to  the  same 


HABITS  OF  THE  ABORIGINES. 


79 


high  authority,  but  for  our  own  part  we  do  not  be- 
lieve that  the  aborigines  had  any  knowledge  of  this 
Biblical  story.  Their  priests  were  fanatics  and  kept 
the  people  in  fear  by  gross  and  extravagant  means  ; 
but  as  to  any  formulated  system  of  religious  worship, 
it  may  be  doubted  if  the  aborigines  of  Cuba  recognized 
any  at  the  time  of  its  discovery  by  Columbus.  Un- 
broken peace  reigned  among  them,  and  they  turned 
their  hands  against  no  other  people. 

These  aborigines  exhibited  many  of  the  traits  uni- 
versally evinced  by  savage  races,  such  as  painting 
their  bodies  with  red  earth  and  adorning  their  heads 
with  the  feathers  of  brilliant  birds.  Much  of  the  soil 
is  red,  almost  equal  to  a  pigment,  for  which  purpose 
it  was  employed  by  the  natives.  They  lived  mostly  in 
the  open  air,  weaving  themselves  hammocks  in  wiiich 
they  slept,  suspended  among  the  trees.  The  cotton 
which  they  spun  grew  wild,  but  tobacco  tliey  planted 
and  cultivated  after  a  rude  fashion.  The  iguana  and 
the  voiceless  dog,  ali'eady  spoken  of,  were  hunted  and 
eaten,  the  former  cf  the  lizard  family,  the  latter 
scarcely  more  than  fifteen  inches  long.  They  had 
domestic  birds  which  they  fattened  and  ate.  Their 
only  arms  were  lances  tipped  with  sea-shells,  and  a 
sort  of  wooden  sword,  both  of  which  were  more  for 
display  than  for  use.  Fish  they  caught  in  nets  and 
also  with  hooks  made  of  bones.  Their  boats,  or  canoes, 
were  formed  of  the  dug-out  trunks  of  trees,  and  some 
of  these  canoes,  as  Columbus  tells  us,  were  sufficiently 
large  to  accommodate  fifty  men.  An  ancient  writer 
upon  this  subject  says  the  oars  were  well  formed 
and  properly  fitted,  but  were  used  only  with  the 
power  of  the  arms,  that  is  as  paddles,  no  rowlocks 
being  cut  in  the  boat.    The  speed  attained  by  them 


80 


DUE  SOUTH. 


was  remarkable,  reaching  four  leagues  an  hour  when 
an  effort  to  that  end  was  made  by  the  occupants.  A 
large  canoe,  made  from  the  straight  trunk  of  a  ma- 
hogany tree,  is  described  as  having  been  five  feet  in 
width  and  seventy-five  feet  long.  This  craft  was  pro- 
pelled by  twenty-five  oarsmen  on  each  side,  a  steers- 
man in  the  stern,  and  a  lookout  at  the  prow.  This 
was  a  cacique's  barge,  in  which  he  made  visits  of  state 
along  shore  and  up  the  rivers. 

History  has  preserved  a  remarkable  and  charac- 
teristic speech  made  by  a  venerable  cacique,  who 
approached  Columbus  with  great  reverence  on  the 
occasion  of  his  second  visit  to  Cuba,  and  who,  after 
presenting  him  with  a  basket  of  ripe  fruit,  said: 
^'  Whether  you  are  divinities  or  mortal  men,  we  know 
not.  You  have  come  into  these  countries  with  a 
force,  against  which,  were  we  inclined  to  resist,  it 
would  be  folly.  We  are  all  therefore  at  your  mercy  ; 
but  if  you  are  men,  subject  to  mortahty  like  ourselves, 
you  cannot  be  unapprised  that  after  this  life  there  is 
another,  wherein  a  very  different  portion  is  allotted 
to  good  and  bad  men.  If  therefore  you  expect  to  die, 
and  believe,  with  us,  that  every  one  is  to  be  rewarded 
in  a  future  state  according  to  his  conduct  in  the  pres- 
ent, you  will  do  no  hurt  to  those  who  do  none  to 
you."  This  was  duly  interpreted  to  Columbus  by  a 
native  whom  he  had  taken  to  Spain,  and  who  had 
there  acquired  the  Spanish  language.  His  name  was 
Didacus,  and  the  date  of  the  speech  was  July  7, 
1492.  The  truth  of  this  version  is  attested  by  Her- 
rera  and  others. 

The  reception  which  Bartholomew  Columbus,  who 
was  appointed  Deputy  Governor  in  the  absence  of  the 
Admiral,  afterwards  met  with  in  his  progress  through 


A  NATIVE  ENTERTAINMENT. 


81 


the  island  to  collect  tribute  from  the  several  caciques 
manifested  not  only  kindness  and  submission,  but  also 
munificence.  Having  heard  of  the  eagerness  of  the 
strangers  foi'  gold,  such  of  them  as  possessed  any- 
brought  it  forth  and  freely  bestowed  it  upon  the 
Spaniards.  Those  who  had  not  gold  brought  abun- 
dance of  cotton.  One  cacique  in  the  interior,  named 
Behechio,  invited  the  Deputy  Governor  to  a  state  en- 
tertainment, on  which  occasion  he  was  received  with 
great  ceremony.  As  he  approached  the  king's  dwell- 
ing, the  royal  wives,  thirty  in  number,  carrying 
branches  of  palm  in  their  hands,  came  forth  to  greet 
the  guest  with  song  and  dance.  These  matrons  were 
succeeded  by  a  train  of  virgins.  The  first  wore 
aprons  of  cotton,  the  last  were  arrayed  only  in  the  in- 
nocence of  nature,  their  hair  flowing  long  and  freely 
about  their  shoulders  and  necks.  Their  limbs  were 
finely  proportioned,  and  their  complexions,  though 
brown,  were  smooth,  shining,  and  lovely.  The  Span- 
iards were  struck  with  admiration,  believing  that  they 
beheld  the  dryads  of  the  woods  and  the  nymphs  of 
the  ancient  fables.  The  branches  which  they  bore 
were  delivered  to  the  strangers  with  low  obeisance, 
indicating  entire  submission.  When  the  Spaniards 
entered  the  rural  palace,  amid  songs  and  the  rude 
music  of  the  people,  they  found  there  a  plentiful  and, 
according  to  the  Indian  mode  of  living,  a  sumptuous 
banquet  prepared  for  them. 

After  the  repast  the  guests  were  each  conducted  to 
separate  lodgings,  and  each  provided  with  a  cotton 
hammock.  On  the  next  day  feasting  and  games  were 
resumed  ;  dancing  and  singing  closed  each  evening  for 
four  consecutive  days,  and  when  the  Deputy  Governor 
and  his  people  departed,  they  were  laden  with  gifts 

6 


82 


DUE  SOUTH. 


by  their  generous  entertainers,  who  also  accompanied 
them  far  on  their  way.  This  episode  will  perhaps 
serve  better  to  give  us  a  just  insight  into  the  condi- 
tion and  character  of  the  aborigines  of  Cuba  at  that 
early  period  than  any  amount  of  detailed  description 
possibly  could. 

These  aborigines,  according  to  Las  Casas,  had  no 
tradition  even,  touching  their  own  origin,  and  when 
asked  about  it  only  shook  their  heads  and  pointed  to 
the  sky.  Antiquarians  have  endeavored  to  draw  some 
reliable  or  at  least  reasonable  deductions  from  the  col- 
lection of  bones  and  skeletons  found  in  the  mountain 
caves  of  the  island,  but  no  conclusion  worthy  of  record 
has  ever  been  arrived  at.  Still,  upon  these  evidences 
some  scientists  pin  their  faith  that  Cuba  was  a  por- 
tion of  the  primitive  world.  Speaking  of  these  caves, 
there  are  many  subterranean  openings  on  the  island, 
down  which  rivers  of  considerable  size  abruptly  dis- 
appear, not  again  to  be  met  with,  though  it  is  reason- 
ably presumed  that  they  find  their  way  through  the 
rocks  and  soil  to  the  sea-coast. 

During  the  ten  years  subsequent  to  its  discovery, 
Columbus  visited  and  partially  explored  the  island 
at  four  different  times,  the  last  being  in  1502,  four 
years  previous  to  his  death,  which  took  place  at  Val- 
ladolid  in  1506.  It  seems  singular  to  us  that  his  in- 
vestigations left  him  still  ignorant  of  the  fact  that 
Cuba  was  an  island,  and  not  a  part  of  a  new  con- 
tinent. This  conviction  remained  with  him  during 
his  lifetime.  It  was  not  until  1511  that  the  Span- 
iards commenced  to  colonize  the  island,  when  Diego 
Columbus,  then  Governor  of  San  Domingo,  sent  an  ex- 
pedition of  three  hundred  men  for  the  purpose,  under 
the  command  of  Diego  Velasquez,  whose  landing  was 


FIRST  GOVERNOR  OF  CUBA. 


83 


disputed  by  the  natives.  A  period  of  ten  years  had 
served  to  open  their  eyes  to  Spanish  lust  and  love  of 
gold,  and  from  having  at  first  regarded  them  as  supe- 
rior beings,  entitled  to  their  obedience,  they  were 
finally  thus  driven  to  fight  them  in  self-defense.  But 
what  could  naked  savages,  armed  only  with  clubs 
and  spears,  accomplish  against  Europeans,  trained 
soldiers,  furnished  with  firearms,  protected  by  plate 
armor,  and  accompanied  by  bloodhounds,  —  men  who 
had  learned  the  art  of  war  by  fighting  successfully 
with  the  valiant  Moors  ?  The  natives  were  at  once 
overpowered  and  hundreds  were  slaughtered.  From 
that  time  forth  they  became  tlie  slaves  of  their  con- 
querors ;  a  fact  which  reconciles  us  in  some  degree  in 
the  light  of  poetical  justice  to  the  fact  that  Amerigo 
Vespucci,  who  followed  in  tlie  footsteps  of  others,  yet 
took  the  honors  of  discovery  so  far  as  to  give  his 
name  to  the  largest  quarter  of  the  globe. 

Diego  Velasquez,  the  earliest  Governor  of  the 
island,  appears  to  have  been  an  energetic  and  eflficient 
magistrate,  and  to  have  administered  affairs  with 
vigor  and  intelligence.  He  did  not  live,  however,  in 
a  period  when  justice  ever  erred  on  the  side  of  mercy, 
and  his  harsh  and  cruel  treatment  of  the  aborigines 
will  always  remain  a  stain  upon  his  memory.  The 
native  population  soon  dwindled  away  under  the 
sway  of  the  Spaniards,  who  imposed  tasks  upon  them 
far  beyond  their  physical  powers  of  endurance.  The 
victims  of  this  hardship  had  no  one  to  befriend  them 
at  that  time,  and  no  one  has  done  them  justice  in 
history.  The  few  glimpses  of  their  character  which 
have  come  down  to  us  are  of  a  nature  greatly  to  in- 
terest us  in  this  now  extinct  race.  Their  one  fault 
was  in  trusting  the  invaders  at  all.    At  the  outset 


84 


DUE  SOUTH. 


they  could  have  swept  them  from  the  face  of  tlie 
earth,  but,  once  permitted  to  establish  themselves, 
they  soon  became  too  powerful  to  be  driven  out  of 
the  land.  A  native  chief,  whose  only  crime  was  that 
of  taking  up  arms  in  defense  of  the  integrity  of  his 
little  territory,  fell  into  the  hands  of  Velasquez,  and 
was  cruelly  burned  at  the  stake,  near  what  is  now 
the  town  of  Yara,  as  a  punishment  for  his  patriotism. 
The  words  of  this  unfortunate  but  brave  chief 
(Hatuey),  extorted  by  the  torments  which  he  suf- 
fered, were:  I  prefer  hell  to  heaven,  if  there  are 
Spaniards  in  heaven  !  " 

In  point  of  energetic  action  and  material  progress, 
Velasquez  reminds  us  of  a  later  Governor-General,  tlie 
famous  Tacon.  In  a  single  decade,  Velasquez  founded 
the  seven  cities  of  Baracoa,  Santiago  de  Cuba,  Trin- 
idad, Bayamo,  Puerto  del  Principe,  St.  Spiritus,  and, 
on  the  south  coast  near  Batabano,  Havana,  since 
removed  to  its  present  site.  He  caused  the  mines  to 
be  opened  and  rendered  them  profitable,  introduced 
valuable  breeds  of  cattle,  instituted  agricultural  en- 
terprise, and  opened  a  large  trade  with  San  Domingo, 
Jamaica,  and  the  Spanish  peninsula.  Population  in- 
creased rapidly,  thousands  of  persons  emigrating 
annually  from  Europe,  tempted  by  the  inviting  stories 
of  the  returned  explorers.  Emigration  schemes  were 
approved  and  fostered  by  the  home  government,  and 
thus  a  large  community  was  rapidly  divided  among 
the  several  cities  upon  the  island.  Still  this  new 
province  was  considered  mainly  in  the  light  of  a 
military  depot  by  the  Spanish  throne,  in  its  famous 
operations  at  that  period  in  Mexico.  The  fact  that 
it  was  destined  to  prove  the  richest  jewel  in  the 
Castilian  crown,  and  a  mine  of  wealth  to  the  Spanish 


CONQUEST  OF  MEXICO, 


85 


treasury,  was  not  dreamed  of  at  that  date  in  its  his- 
tory. Even  the  enthusiastic  followers  of  Cortez, 
who  souglit  tliat  fabulous  EI  Dorado  in  the  New 
World,  had  no  promise  for  this  gem  of  the  Caribbean 
Sea ;  but,  in  spite  of  every  side  issue  and  all  con- 
tending interests,  the  island  continued  to  grow  in 
numbers  and  importance,  while  its  native  resources 
were  far  beyond  the  appreciation  of  the  home  govern- 
ment. 

Thus  Cuba  became  the  headquarters  of  the  Spanish 
power  in  the  West,  forming  the  point  of  departure 
for  those  military  expeditions  which,  though  circum- 
scribed in  numbers,  were  yet  so  formidable  in  the 
energy  of  the  leaders,  and  in  the  arms,  discipline, 
courage,  fanaticism,  and  avarice  of  their  followers, 
that  they  were  amply  adequate  to  carry  out  the  vast 
scheme  of  conquest  for  which  they  were  designed. 
It  was  hence  that  Cortez  embarked  for  the  conquest 
of  Mexico ;  a  gigantic  undertaking,  a  slight  glance  at 
which  will  recall  to  the  mind  of  the  reader  the  period 
of  history  to  which  we  would  direct  his  attention. 

Landing  upon  the  continent  (1518)  with  a  little 
band  scarcely  more  than  half  the  complement  of  a 
modern  regiment,  Cortez  piepared  to  traverse  an 
unknown  country,  thronged  by  savage  tribes  with 
whose  character,  habits,  and  means  of  defense  he 
was  wholly  unacquainted.  This  romantic  adventure, 
worthy  of  the  palmiest  days  of  chivalry,  was  finally 
crowned  with  success,  though  checkered  with  various 
fortunes,  and  stained  with  bloody  episodes  that  prove 
how  the  threads  of  courage  and  ferocity  are  insepa- 
rably blended  in  the  woof  and  warp  of  Spanish 
character.  It  must  be  remembered,  however,  tliat 
the  spirit  of  the  age  was  harsh,  relentless,  and  intol- 


86 


DUE  SOUTH. 


erant,  and  that  if  the  Aztecs,  idolaters  and  sacrificers 
of  human  victims,  found  no  mercy  at  the  hands  of  the 
fierce  Catholics  whom  Cortez  commanded,  neither 
did  the  Indians  of  our  own  section  of  the  continent 
fare  much  better  at  the  hands  of  men  professing  to 
be  disciples  of  a  purer  faith,  and  coming  to  these 
shores,  not  as  warriors,  but  themselves  persecuted 
fugitives. 

The  Spanish  generals  who  invaded  Mexico  en- 
countered a  people  who  had  attained  a  far  higher 
point  of  civilization  than  their  red  brethren  of  the 
outlying  Caribbean  Islands,  or  those  of  the  north- 
eastern portion  of  the  continent.  Vast  pyramids, 
imposing  sculptures,  curious  arms,  fanciful  garments, 
various  kinds  of  manufactures,  the  relics  of  which 
strongly  interest  the  student  of  the  past,  filled  the 
invaders  with  surprise.  There  was  much  that  was 
curious  and  startling  in  their  mythology,  and  the 
capital  of  the  Mexican  empire  presented  a  strange 
and  fascinating  spectacle  to  the  eyes  of  Cortez.  The 
rocky  amphitheatre  in  the  midst  of  which  it  was 
built  still  remains  unchanged,  but  the  great  lake 
which  surrounded  it,  traversed  by  causeways  and 
covered  with  floating  gardens  laden  with  flowers,  is 
gone. 

The  star  of  the  Aztec  dynasty  set  in  blood.  In 
vain  did  the  inhabitants  of  the  conquered  city,  roused 
to  madness  by  the  cruelty  and  extortion  of  the 
victors,  expel  them  from  their  midst.  Cortez  refused 
to  flee  farther  than  the  shore ;  the  light  of  his  burn- 
ing galleys  rekindled  the  desperate  valor  of  his  fol- 
lowers, and  Mexico  fell,  as  a  few  years  after  did  Peru 
under  the  perfidy  and  sword  of  Pizarro,  thus  com- 
pleting the  scheme  of  conquest,  and  giving  Spain  a 


SPANISH  CONQUERORS. 


87 


colonial  empire  far  more  splendid  than  that  of  any 
other  power  in  Christendom. 

Of  the  agents  in  this  vast  scheme  of  territorial 
aggrandizement,  we  see  Cortez  dying  in  obscurity 
and  Pizarro  assassinated  in  his  palace,  while  retrib- 
utive justice  has  overtaken  the  monarchy  at  whose 
behest  the  richest  portions  of  the  Western  Continent 
were  violently  wrested  from  their  native  possessors. 


CHAPTER  y. 

Baracoa,  the  First  Capital.  —  West  Indian  Buccaneers.  —  Military- 
Despotism. —  A  Perpetual  State  of  Siege.  —  A  Patriotic  Son  of 
Cuba. — Political  Condition  of  the  Island. — Education  of  Cuban 
Youths.  —  Attempts  at  llevolution.  —  Fate  of  General  Narciso  Lo- 
pez.—  The  Late  Civil  War  and  its  Leader.  —  Terrible  Slaughter  of 
Spanish  Troops. — Stronghold  of  the  Insurgents.  —  Guerrillas. — 
Want  of  Self-Reliance.  —  Spanish  Art,  Literature,  and  Conquest,  — 
What  Spain  was.  —  What  Spain  is.  —  Rise  and  Fall  of  an  Empire. 

Baracoa  lies  one  hundred  miles  northeast  from 
Santiago,  and  was  the  capital  of  the  island  as  first 
established  by  Velasquez.  Here  Leo  X.  erected  in 
1518  the  first  cathedral  in  Cuba.  The  town  is  situ- 
ated on  the  north  coast,  near  the  eastern  extremity  of 
the  island,  having  a  small  but  deep  harbor,  and  a 
considerable  trade  in  the  shipping  of  sugar  and  fruits 
to  this  country.  The  population  at  present  numbers 
about  six  thousand.  Five  years  after  the  settlement 
of  Baracoa,  the  capital  was  moved  to  Santiago  de 
Cuba,  where  it  remained  until  1589,  when  Havana 
was  formally  declared  to  be  the  capital  of  the  island, 
its  first  Captain-General  being  J uan  de  Tejada.  The 
city  was  captured  and  partially  destroyed  by  a  French 
pirate  in  1638,  and  afterwards  suffered  a  like  catas- 
trophe at  the  hands  of  the  buccaneers  of  combined 
nationality,  embracing  some  disaffected  Spaniards. 
So  late  as  1760  Havana  was  captured  and  held  by 
the  English,  under  the  Duke  of  Albemarle,  but  was 
restored  to  Spain,  after  a  brief  occupancy,  in  1763. 
The  first  grand  impulse  to  the  material  prosperity  of 


WEST  INDIAN  BUCCANEERS. 


89 


the  city,  anomalous  though  it  may  seem,  was  given 
through  its  capture  by  the  British.  It  is  true  that 
the  victors  seized  everything  by  force,  but  they  also 
taught  the  hstless  people  how  to  repair  their  losses, 
and  how  to  multiply  prosperity.  The  port  of  Havana, 
accustomed  heretofore  to  receive  the  visits  of  half  a 
score  of  European  vessels  annually,  suddenly  became 
the  rendezvous  of  a  thousand  ships  in  the  same  period 
of  time,  much  to  the  surprise  of  the  inhabitants. 
Bourbon  in  nature  as  the  Spaniards  were  and  still 
are,  they  could  not  but  profit  by  the  brilliant  example 
of  their  enemies,  and  from  that  time  forwai'd  the  city 
grew  rapidly  in  commercial  importance,  and  has  con- 
tinued to  do  so,  notwithstanding  the  rivalry  of  Ma- 
tanzas,  Santiago,  Cienfuegos,  and  other  ports,  as  well 
as  the  drawbacks  of  civil  war  and  business  stagna- 
tion. 

These  buccaneers  of  the  West  Indies,  to  whom  we 
have  so  often  alluded,  were  composed  mostly  of  En- 
glish, French,  and  Dutch  adventurers,  whose  bitter 
hatred  the  Spaniards  early  incurred.  They  were  for 
a  long  time  their  terror  and  scourge,  being  the  real 
masters  of  the  ocean  in  these  latitudes.  They  feared 
no  enemy  and  spared  none,  while  by  shocking  acts  of 
needless  cruelty  they  proved  themselves  fiends  in  hu- 
man shape.  Among  these  rovers  there  were  often 
found  men  particularly  fitted  for  the  adventurous  ca- 
reer they  had  adopted,  men  who  combined  remarka- 
ble executive  ability  with  a  spirit  of  daring  bravery 
and  a  total  disregard  of  all  laws,  human  and  divine. 
By  a  few  such  leaders  the  bands  of  freebooters  were 
held  in  hand,  and  preserved  their  organization  for 
many  years ;  obedience  to  the  word  of  their  chief,  after 
he  was  once  chosen  as  such,  being  the  one  inviolable 


90 


DUE  SOUTH. 


law  of  their  union.  The  romance  of  the  sea  owes  its 
most  startling  chapters  to  the  career  of  these  pirates. 
Sometimes  their  principal  rendezvous  was  at  the  Isle 
of  Pines  ;  at  others  further  north  among  the  Baha- 
mas, Nassau  being  one  of  their  favorite  resorts. 

In  the  mean  time,  under  numerous  and  often  changed 
Captains-General,  the  island  of  Cuba  increased  in 
population  by  free  emigration  from  Spain,  and  by  the 
constant  importations  of  slaves  from  Africa.  It  may- 
be said  to  have  been  governed  by  a  military  despot- 
ism from  the  very  outset  to  the  present  time  ;  and 
nothing  short  of  such  an  arbitrarj^  rule  could  main- 
tain the  connection  between  the  island  and  so  exact- 
ing a  mother  country,  more  than  three  thousand  miles 
across  the  ocean.  Accordingly  we  find  the  Captain- 
General  invested  with  unlimited  power.  He  is  in  fact 
a  viceroy  appointed  by  the  crown  of  Spain,  and  ac- 
countable only  to  the  reigning  sovereign  for  his  ad- 
ministration of  the  colony.  His  rule  is  absolute.  He 
has  the  power  of  life  and  death  in  his  hands.  He 
can  by  his  arbitrary  will  send  into  exile  any  person 
who  resides  in  the  island  whom  he  considers  inimical 
to  the  interests  of  the  home  government.  Of  the 
exercise  of  this  power  instances  are  constantly  occur- 
ring, as  in  the  case  of  the  editor  of  the  "  Revista 
Economica,"  already  recorded.  He  can  at  will  sus- 
pend the  operation  of  the  laws  and  ordinances,  can 
destroy  or  confiscate  propert}^  and  in  short,  the  island 
may  be  said  to  be  in  a  perpetual  state  of  siege. 

Such  is  the  infirmity  of  human  nature  that  few 
individuals  can  be  safely  trusted  with  despotic  power ; 
accordingly  we  find  no  Captain-General  whose  ad- 
ministration will  bear  the  test  of  rigid  examination. 
Indeed,  the  venality  of  a  majority  of  these  officials 


CUPIDITY  OF  CHIEF  OFFICIAL. 


91 


lias  been  so  gross  as  to  have  passed  into  a  proverb. 
It  is  not  to  be  expected  that  officers  from  Spain  should 
consult  the  true  interests  of  the  Cubans ;  they  are 
not  sent  hither  for  that  purpose,  but  merely  to  look 
after  the  revenue  of  the  crown,  and  to  swell  it  to  the 
very  uttermost.  The  office  of  Governor-General  is  of 
course  a  brilliant  prize,  for  which  there  are  plenty  of 
aspirants  eagerly  struggling,  while  the  means  by  which 
a  candidate  is  most  likely  to  succeed  in  obtaining  the 
appointment  presupposes  a  character  of  an  inferior 
order.  This  official  knows  that  he  cannot  count  on  a 
long  term  of  office,  and  hence  he  makes  no  effort  to 
study  the  interests  or  gain  the  good-will  of  the  people 
over  whom  he  presides.  He  has  a  twofold  object  only 
in  view :  namely,  to  keep  the  revenue  well  up  to  the 
mark,  and  to  enrich  himself  as  speedily  as  possible. 
The  princely  salary  he  receives  —  fifty  thousand  dol- 
lars per  annum,  with  a  palace  and  household  atten- 
dants supplied  —  is  but  a  portion  of  the  income 
which,  by  a  system  of  peculation,  he  is  enabled  to  di- 
vert to  his  private  coffers.  As  a  rule,  the  Captain- 
General  comes  out  to  Cuba  a  poor  man,  and  returns  a 
rich  one,  however  brief  his  term  of  office. 

Occasionally  during  the  lapse  of  years  a  true  and 
patriotic  man  has  filled  this  important  post,  when  the 
remarkable  elements  of  prosperity  contained  within 
the  limits  of  this  peerless  land  were  rapidly  developed 
and  advanced.  Such  an  one  was  Don  Luis  de  las 
Casas,  whose  name  is  cherished  by  all  patriotic  Cu- 
bans, as  also  is  that  of  Don  Francisco  de  Arrango,  an 
accomplished  statesman  and  a  native  of  Havana.  He 
was  educated  in  Spain,  and  designed  to  follow  the  law 
as  a  profession.  This  man,  being  thoroughly  ac- 
quainted with  the  possibilities  of  the  island  and  the 


92 


DUE  SOUTH. 


condition  and  wants  of  his  countrymen,  succeeded  in 
procuring  tlie  amelioration  of  some  of  the  most  fla- 
grant abuses  of  the  colonial  system.  In  his  argument 
for  reform  before  the  home  government,  he  told  them 
that  serious  dissent  permeated  every  class  of  the 
community,  and  was  bid  in  return  to  employ  a  still 
more  stringent  system  of  rule.  To  this  Arrango  re- 
plied that  force  was  not  remedy,  and  that  to  effectu- 
ally reform  the  rebellious  they  must  first  reform  the 
laws.  His  earnest  reason  carried  conviction,  and 
finally  won  concession.  By  his  exertions  the  staple 
productions  of  the  island  were  so  much  increased  that 
the  revenue,  in  place  of  falliiig  short  of  the  expenses 
of  the  government  as  his  enemies  had  predicted,  soon 
yielded  a  large  surplus.  He  early  raised  his  voice 
against  the  iniquitous  slave  trade,  and  suggested  the 
introduction  of  white  labor,  though  he  admitted  that 
the  immediate  and  wholesale  abolition  of  slavery  was 
impracticable.  This  was  the  rock  on  which  he  split, 
as  it  regarded  his  influence  with  the  Spaniards  in 
Cuba,  that  is,  with  the  planters  and  rich  property 
holders.  Slavery  with  them  was  a  sine  qua  non. 
Many  of  them  owned  a  thousand  Africans  each,  and 
the  institution,  as  an  arbitrary  power  as  well  as  the 
means  of  wealth,  was  ever  dear  to  the  Spanish  heart. 
Former  and  subsequent  Captains-General  not  only 
secretly  encouraged  the  clandestine  importation  of 
slaves,  after  issuing  an  edict  prohibiting  it,  but  prof- 
ited pecurjiarily  by  the  business.  It  was  owing  to  his 
exertions  that  the  duty  on  coffee,  spirits,  and  cotton 
was  remitted  for  a  period  of  ten  years,  and  that  ma- 
chinery for  the  sugar  plantations  was  allowed  to  be 
imported  into  Cuba  from  the  United  States  free  of 
all  duty. 


PATRIOTISM  OF  ARRANGO. 


93 


The  patriotic  services  of  Arrango  were  appreciated 
by  the  court  of  Madrid,  althougli  he  was  at  times 
the  inflexible  opponent  of  its  selfish  schemes.  The 
Cross  of  Charles  III.  showed  the  esteem  in  which  he 
was  held  by  tliat  monarch.  With  a  modesty  which 
did  him  honor  he  declined  to  accept  a  title  of  nobility 
which  was  afterwards  tendered  to  him  by  his  king. 
This  patriotic  son  of  Cuba  was  at  heart  a  republican, 
and  declared  that  the  king  could  make  noblemen,  but 
God  only  could  make  gentlemen.  In  1813,  when,  by 
the  adoption  of  the  Constitution  of  1812,  Cuba  be- 
came entitled  to  representation  in  the  general  Cortes, 
—  a  privilege  but  briefly  enjoyed,  —  he  went  to  Ma- 
drid as  a  deputy,  and  there  achieved  the  crowning 
glory  of  his  useful  life :  namely,  the  opening  of  the 
ports  of  the  island  to  foreign  trade.  In  1817  he  re- 
turned to  his  native  land  with  the  rank  of  Counselor 
of  State  and  Financial  Intendant  of  Cubn,  also 
possessing  the  Grand  Cross  of  the  Order  of  Isabella. 
He  died  in  1837,  at  the  age  of  seventy-two,  after  a 
long  and  eminently  useful  life,  bequeathing  large 
sums  of  money  for  various  public  purposes  in  his  na- 
tive isle. 

When  the  invasion  of  Spain,  which  took  place  in 
1808,  produced  the  Constitution  of  1812,  Cuba  was 
considered  entitled,  as  we  have  stated,  to  enjoy  its 
benefits,  and  it  was  so  announced  by  royal  statute ; 
but  political  revolution  at  home  and  a  manifest  res- 
tiveness  upon  the  island  finally  led  in  1836  to  the 
revoking  of  this  royal  statute,  which  had  never  been 
practically  operative,  and  the  old  Constitution  was 
proclaimed. 

Up  to  this  period  of  time  the  various  political 
events  at  home  had  disturbed  but  slightly  the  tran- 


94 


DUE  SOUTH, 


quillity  of  this  rich  province  of  Spain.  The  Cubans, 
altliough  sensible  of  the  progress  of  public  intelli- 
gence and  wealth  under  the  protection  of  a  few  en- 
lightened governors  and  through  the  influence  of 
some  distinguished  and  patriotic  individuals,  still  felt 
that  these  advances  were  slow,  partial,  and  limited. 
The  most  intelligent  realized  that  there  was  no  regu- 
lar system  ;  that  the  public  interests  were  sure  to 
suffer,  confided  to  officials  entrusted  with  unlimited 
power.  They  frequently  saw  themselves  betrayed 
by  a  cupidity  which  impelled  the  authorities  to  en- 
rich themselves  in  every  possible  way  at  the  expense 
of  general  suffering.  Added  to  these  sources  of  dis- 
content was  the  powerful  influence  exerted  by  the 
spectacle  of  the  rapidly  increasing  greatness  of  the 
United  States,  where  a  portion  of  the  Cuban  youths 
were  wont  to  receive  their  education.  No  matter 
in  what  political  faith  these  youths  had  left  home, 
they  were  sure  to  return  republicans. 

There  also  were  the  examples  of  Mexico  and  Span- 
ish South  America,  which  had  recently  conquered 
with  their  blood  their  emancipation  from  m.onarchy. 
Liberal  ideas  were  naturally  diffused  by  Cubans  who 
had  traveled  either  in  Europe  or  North  America, 
there  imbibing  the  spirit  of  modern  civilization.  But 
with  a  fatuity  and  obstinacy  which  has  always  char- 
acterized her,  the  mother  country  resolved  to  ignore 
all  causes  of  discontent,  and  their  significant  influence 
as  manifested  by  the  people  of  the  island.  In  place 
of  yielding  to  the  popular  current  and  introducing  a 
liberal  and  mild  system  of  government,  she  drew  the 
reins  yet  tighter,  curtailing  many  former  privileges. 
Thus  it  was  that  blind  persistence  in  the  fatal  princi- 
ple of  despotic  domination  relaxed  the  natural  bonds 


ATTEMPTS  AT  REVOLUTION, 


95 


uniting  Cuba  and  the  mother  country,  and  infused 
gall  into  the  hearts  of  the  governed.  Obedience  still 
continued,  but  it  was  the  dangerous  obedience  of  ter- 
ror, not  the  secure  and  instinctive  spirit  of  loyalty. 

This  severity  on  the  part  of  the  home  government 
has  naturally  given  rise  to  several  attempts  to  cast  off 
the  Spanish  yoke.  The  first  occurred  in  1823,  when 
Simon  Bolivar  offered  to  aid  the  disaffected  party  by 
throwing  an  invading  force  into  the  island.  Another 
was  made  in  1826,  and  a  third  in  1828.  In  1848  a 
conspiracy  was  formed  at  Cienfuegos  and  Trinidad  to 
establish  Cuban  independence,  under  the  leadership 
of  General  Narciso  Lopez ;  but  finding  that  his  plans 
were  premature,  he  escaped  to  this  country,  and  here 
arranged  a  descent  upon  the  island,  which  he  led  in 
person  :  this  was  in  1850.  General  Lopez,  however, 
was  not  seconded  by  the  timid  natives,  though  they 
had  freely  pledged  themselves  to  do  so,  and  his  expe- 
dition, after  winning  one  decisive  battle  and  several 
important  skirmishes,  was  at  last  overpowered  and 
its  leader  promptly  executed.  General  Lopez  was 
an  adopted  citizen  of  Cuba,  and  was  married  to  one 
of  her  daughters.  He  was  executed  at  the  age  of 
fifty-two. 

The  Lopez  expedition  would  seem  to  have  been  the 
most  serious  and  best  organized  attempt  at  revolution 
in  Cuba  by  invasion,  though  there  have  been  formi- 
dable attempts  since.  From  1868  to  1876  Cuba  may 
be  said  to  have  been  in  a  state  of  chronic  civil  war. 
This  outbreak  was  led  by  Carlos  Manuel  de  Cespedes, 
an  able  lawyer  and  wealthy  planter  of  Bayamo,  in 
the  eastern  department  of  the  island.  He  raised  the 
standard  of  independence  on  his  estate,  Demajagua, 
supported  at  the  outset  by  less  than  fifty  men.  This 


96 


DUE  SOUTH. 


was  in  October,  1868,  and  by  the  middle  of  Novem- 
ber he  had  an  organized  army  of  twelve  thousand 
men ;  poorly  armed,  it  must  be  admitted,  but  united 
in  purpose  and  of  determined  will.  That  portion  of 
the  island  contiguous  to  Santiago,  and  between  that 
city  and  Clenfuegos,  was  for  a  long  period  almost  en- 
tirely in  possession  of  the  patriot  forces.  Here  many 
sanguinary  battles  were  fought  with  varying  fortune, 
at  terrible  sacrifice  of  life,  especially  on  the  part  of 
the  government  troops,  over  one  hundred  thousand  of 
whom,  first  and  last,  are  known  to  have  perished  in 
that  district.  Spain  actually  sent  one  hundred  and 
forty-five  thousand  enlisted  men  to  Cuba  during  the 
eight  years  of  active  warfare.  Of  this  number  those 
who  finally  returned  to  the  European  peninsula  were 
but  a  few  hundreds  !  It  was  publicly  stated  in  the 
Cortes  of  Madrid  that  not  enough  of  that  immense 
force  ever  returned  to  fill  a  single  regiment !  The 
climate  was  far  more  fatal  to  these  soldiers  than  were 
patriot  bullets.  The  warfare  was  conducted  by  the 
native  Cubans  mostly  on  the  guerrilla  plan,  and  was 
ten  times  more  destructive  to  the  imported  soldiers 
than  to  themselves.  Discipline  counted  for  little  or 
nothing  in  contending  with  men  who  fought  single- 
handed  and  from  ambush,  decimating  the  ranks  of  an 
invading  column,  who  in  turn  could  only  fire  at  ran- 
dom. 

Exhaustion  and  promised  concessions,  which  were, 
as  usual  with  the  Spanish  government,  never  fulfilled, 
finally  brought  this  struggle  to  an  end;  but  it  cost 
Spain  many  millions  of  dollars  and  the  lives  of  over 
a  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  men,  saying  nothing  of 
the  destruction  of  an  enormous  amount  of  property 
on  the  island,  belonging  to  loyal  Spaniards.  Miles 


STRONGHOLD  OF  INSURGENTS. 


97 


upon  miles  of  thrifty  plantations,  with  all  their  build- 
ings and  machinery,  were  laid  waste,  and  remain  so 
to  this  day. 

Since  1876  there  have  been  roving  bands  of  insur- 
gents in  existence,  causing  the  authorities  more  or 
less  serious  trouble,  leading  them  at  times  to  make 
serious  attempts  at  their  entire  suppression.  But 
the  mountains  and  half-inaccessible  forests  of  the 
eastern  department  still  serve  to  secrete  many  armed 
and  disaffected  people,  whose  frequent  outbreaks  are 
made  public  by  the  slow  process  of  oral  information. 
The  press  is  forbidden  to  publish  any  news  of  this 
character.  Thus  it  will  be  seen  tiiat,  although  the 
spirit  of  liberty  may  slumber  in  the  island,  it  is  by 
no  means  dead,  nor  is  the  intense  hatred  which  ex- 
ists between  the  home-born  Spaniard  and  the  native 
Cuban  growing  less  from  year  to  year.  Indeed,  the 
insurrection  of  Trinidad  and  Cienfuegos  (1868)  still 
smoulders,  and  any  extreme  political  exigency  would 
be  liable  to  cause  it  to  blaze  forth  with  renewed 
force.  The  region  where  the  insurgents  have  always 
made  their  rendezvous,  and  which  they  have  virtu- 
ally held  for  years,  is  nearest  to  Guantanamo  and 
Santiago.  This  mountainous  district  is  the  resort  of 
all  runaway  slaves,  escaped  criminals,  and  those  des- 
ignated as  insurgents.  These  together  form  at  the 
present  time  a  roving  community  of  several  hundred 
desperate  men.  These  refugees,  divided  into  small 
bands,  make  predatory  raids  upon  travelers  and 
loyal  plantei's,  as  we  have  described,  to  keep  them- 
selves supplied  with  the  necessities  of  life  other  than 
those  afforded  by  the  prolific  hand  of  Nature.  Occa- 
sionally they  are  organized  by  some  fresh  leader, 
some  daring  native,  stimulated  by  a  spirit  of  patriot- 
7 


98 


DUE  SOUTH. 


ism,  and  possessing  some  executive  ability ;  then 
follows  a  systematic  outbreak  of  just  sufficient  im- 
portance to  harass  tlie  government,  and  to  form, 
perhaps,  an  excuse  for  demanding  a  fresh  regiment 
of  victims  from  the  European  peninsula.  Such  a 
guerrilla  contest  engages  the  worst  passions  of  the 
combatants,  and  quarter  is  neither  asked  nor  given 
when  they  come  face  to  face.  The  bloodthirsty  acts 
of  both  sides,  as  related  to  the  author  during  his 
late  visit  to  the  spot,  are  too  horrible  to  record  in 
these  pages.  It  is  not  legitimate  warfare,  but  rather 
wholesale  murder,  which  characterizes  these  occasions, 
and  there  is  no  expedient  of  destruction  not  resorted 
to  by  both  the  refugees  and  the  pursuing  soldiers. 
The  nature  of  the  country  favors  the  revolutionists, 
and  determines  their  mode  of  conflict.  Thus  far, 
when  the  irregular  bands  have  been  strong  enough  to 
meet  these  detachments  of  regulars  sent  into  their 
neighborhood  to  capture  them,  they  have  nearly  al- 
ways beaten  them  gallantly,  and  this  has  served  to 
perpetuate  their  hopes,  desperate  as  is  a  cause  which 
only  outlaws,  escaped  criminals,  and  slaves  dare  to 
fight  for.  These  people  appear  to  be  well  supplied 
with  arms  and  ammunition,  which  it  is  said  are 
smuggled  to  them  from  sympathizers  in  this  country, 
particularly  from  Florida.  Though  their  ranks  are 
supposed  to  embrace  but  small  numbers,  still  they 
form  a  nucleus  at  all  times,  about  which  discontented 
spirits  may  gather.  Thus  it  is  found  necessary  to 
quarter  a  foreign  army  of  thirty  thousand  soldiers 
upon  the  people  at  the  present  time,  while  half  the 
navy  of  Spain  lies  anchored  in  the  ports  of  the 
island. 

One  great  drawback  and  defect  in  the  character 


WANT  OF  SELF-RELIANCE. 


99 


of  the  native  Cubans  is  a  want  of  self-reliance.  The 
remedy  for  the  outrageous  oppression  under  which 
they  have  so  long  struggled  lies  within  themselves  ; 
''for  they  can  conquer  who  believe  they  can."  In 
the  consciousness  of  strength  is  strength,  but  the 
Creole  republicans  have  never  yet  evinced  the  neces- 
sary degree  of  true  manhood  to  challenge  general 
outside  sympathy,  or  to  command  the  respect  of 
other  nationalities.  The  numerous  revolutionary  out- 
breaks upon  the  island  —  so  frequent  in  the  last  half 
century  as  to  be  chronic  —  have  all  been  of  the  most 
insignificant  character,  compared  with  the  impor- 
tance of  the  occasion  and  the  object  in  view.  These 
efforts  have  mostly  been  made  from  without,  almost 
entirely  unsupported  from  within  the  borders  of 
Cuba,  with  the  exception  of  that  of  1868.  It  appears 
incredible  that  an  intelligent  people,  within  so  short 
a  distance  of  our  Southern  coast,  constantly  visited 
by  the  citizens  of  a  free  republic,  and  having  the 
example  of  successful  revolt  set  them  by  the  men 
of  the  same  race,  both  in  the  North  and  the  South, 
weighed  down  by  oppression  almost  without  parallel, 
should  never  have  aimed  an  effectual  blow  at  their 
oppressors.  It  would  seem  that  the  softness  of  the 
unrivaled  climate  of  those  skies,  beneath  which  it  is 
luxury  only  to  exist,  has  unnerved  this  people,  and 
that  the  effeminate  spirit  of  the  original  inhabitants 
had  descended  in  retribution  to  the  posterity  of  their 
conquerors. 

In  closing  these  brief  chapters  relating  to  the  early 
history  of  the  island  of  Cuba,  and  in  bringing  the 
record  up  to  our  own  period,  some  natural  reflections 
suggest  themselves  as  to  the  present  condition  of  the 
mother  country.    We  follow  with  more  than  passing 


100 


DUE  SOUTH, 


interest  the  condition  of  Spain,  whose  history  ie  so 
closely  interwoven  with  our  own.  From  the  dose  of 
the  fifteenth  century  our  paths  have  run  on  in  par- 
allel lines,  but  while  we  have  gone  on  increasing  in 
power  and  wealth,  she  has  sunk  in  the  scale  of  deca- 
dence with  a  rapidity  no  less  surprising  than  has  been 
the  speed  of  our  own  progress.  At  the  commence- 
ment of  the  sixteenth  century  Spain  threatened  to 
become  the  mistress  of  the  world,  as  Rome  had  been 
before  her.  She  may  be  said  to  have  at  that  period 
dominated  Europe.  In  art  she  was  in  the  very  fore- 
most position  :  Murillo,  Velasquez,  Ribera,  and  other 
famous  painters  were  her  honored  sons.  In  litera- 
ture she  was  also  distinguished  :  both  Cervantes  and 
Lope  de  Vega  contributed  to  her  greatness  and  last- 
ing fame.  While,  iti  discoverers  and  conquerors,  she 
sent  forth  Columbus,  Cortez,  and  Pizarro.  The  ban- 
ners of  Castile  and  Aragon  floated  alike  on  the  Pa- 
cific and  the  margin  of  the  Indian  Ocean.  Her  ships 
sailed  in  every  sea,  and  brought  home  freights  of 
fabulous  value  from  all  the  regions  of  the  earth. 
Her  manufacturers  produced  the  richest  silks  and  vel- 
vets ;  her  soil  yielded  corn  and  wine  ;  her  warriors 
were  adventurous  and  brave ;  her  soldiers  inherited 
the  gallantry  of  the  followers  of  Charles  V. ;  her 
cities  were  the  splendid  abodes  of  luxury,  refinement, 
and  elegance.  She  was  the  court  of  Europe,  the 
acknowledged  leader  of  chivalry  and  of  grandeur. 

This  is  the  picture  of  what  Sp^dn  was  at  no  re- 
mote period  of  time,  but  in  her  instance  we  have  an 
example  showing  us  that  states  are  no  more  exempt 
than  individuals  from  the  mutability  of  fate.  So  was 
it  with  Egypt,  Babylon,  Assyria,  and  Rome,  though 
in  their  case  we  look  far  back  into  the  vista  of  his- 
tory to  recall  the  change,  whereas  in  the  instance  of 


DECLINE  OF  THE  SPANISH  EMPIRE.  101 


Spain  we  are  contemporary  witnesses.  From  a  first- 
class  power,  how  rapidly  she  has  sunk  into  compar- 
ative insignificance !  She  has  been  shorn  of  her 
wealthy  colonies,  one  after  another,  in  the  East  and 
in  the  West,  holding  with  feeble  grasp  a  few  incon- 
siderable islands  only  besides  this  gem  of  the  Antil- 
les, the  choicest  jewel  of  her  crown.  Extremely 
poor  and  deeply  indebted,  she  has  managed  for  years 
to  extort  by  means  of  the  most  outrageous  system 
of  taxation  a  large  share  of  her  entire  revenue  from 
the  island  of  Cuba,  her  home  population  having  long 
since  become  exhausted  by  over-burdensome  imposts. 
Her  nobles  of  to-day  are  an  effeminate,  soulless,  and 
imbecile  race,  while  the  common  people,  with  some 
excellent  qualities,  are  yet  ignorant,  cruel,  and  pas- 
sionate. The  whole  country  is  divided  against  itself, 
the  tottering  throne  being  w^ith  difficulty  upheld. 
Even  the  elements  have  of  late  seemed  to  combine 
against  her,  decimating  whole  cities  of  her  southern 
possessions  by  earthquakes,  and  smiting  her  people 
with  pestilence. 

This  simple  statement  of  her  present  situation  is 
patent  to  all  who  read  and  observe.  It  is  not  an 
overdrawn  picture.  In  it  the  moralist  beholds  the 
retributive  justice  of  providence.  As  Spain  in  the 
plenitude  of  her  power  was  ambitious,  cruel,  and  per- 
fidious, so  has  the  measure  which  she  meted  out  to 
others  been  in  return  accorded  to  herself.  As  with 
fire  and  sword  she  swept  the  Aztec  and  the  Incas 
from  Mexico  and  Peru,  so  was  she  at  last  driven 
from  these  genial  countries  by  their  revolted  inhabi- 
tants. The  spoiler  has  been  despoiled,  the  victor  has 
been  vanquished,  and  thus  has  Spain  met  the  just 
fate  clearly  menaced  by  the  Scriptures  to  those  who 
smite  with  the  sword. 


CHAPTER  VL 


Geographical.  —  A  Remarkable  Weed.  —  Turtle-Hunting.  —  Turtle- 
Steaks  iu  Olden  Times.  —  The  Gulf  Stream. — Deep-Sca  Sound- 
ings.—  Mountain  Range  of  Cuba. — Curious  Geological  Facts. — 
Subterranean  Caverns.  —  Wild  Animals.  —  The  Rivers  of  the 
Island.  —  Fine  Harbors. —  Historic  Memories  of  the  Caribbean 
Sea. —  Sentinel  of  the  Gulf. — Importance  of  the  Position. — 
Climate.  —  Hints  for  Invalids.  —  Matanzas.  —  Execution  of  a 
Patriot.  —  Valley  of  Yumuri;  Caves  of  Bellamar;  Puerto  Prin- 
cipe; Cardenas. 

Having  tlms  briefly  glanced  at  the  historical  and 
political  story  of  Cuba,  —  whose  very  name  seems 
bathed  in  sunshine  and  fragrance,  yet  bedewed  with 
human  tears,  —  let  us  now  consider  its  peculiarities 
of  climate,  soil,  and  population,  together  with  its 
geographical  characteristics.  The  form  of  the  island, 
is  quite  irregular,  resembling  the  blade  of  a  Turkish 
scimitar  slightly  curved  back,  or  that  of  a  long  nar- 
row crescent,  presenting  its  convex  side  to  the  north. 
It  stretches  away  in  this  shape  from  east  to  west, 
throwing  its  western  end  into  a  curve,  as  if  to  form  a 
barrier  to  the  outlet  of  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  and  as  if 
at  some  ancient  period  it  had  formed  a  part  of  the 
American  continent ;  severed  on  its  north  side  from 
the  Florida  peninsula  by  the  wearing  of  the  Gulf 
Stream,  and  from  Yucatan,  on  its  southwestern  point, 
by  a  current  setting  into  the  Gulf.  Two  broad  chan- 
nels are  thus  formed,  by  either  of  which  the  Mexican 
Gulf  is  entered. 

These  channels  are  nearly  of  the  same  width,  some- 


GULF-WEED. 


103 


what  exceeding  a  hundred  miles  each,  the  northern 
passage  being  a  few  miles  the  broader.  The  Baha- 
ma Banks  extend  along  its  northern  coast-line  about 
fifty  or  sixty  miles  distant,  where  commences  the 
group  of  many  small  isles  known  as  the  Bahamas,  and 
of  which  we  have  already  treated.  On  her  eastern 
extreme,  near  Cape  Maysi,  Cuba  is  within  about  fifty 
miles  of  the  western  shore  of  Hayti,  from  which  it  is 
separated  by  the  Windward  Passage.  The  southern 
shore  is  washed  by  the  Caribbean  Sea,  which  is  also 
here  and  there  interspersed  with  small  islands  of  little 
importance.  One  hundred  and  fifty  miles  due  south 
lies  the  British  island  of  Jamaica,  with  a  superficial 
area  of  over  four  thousand  square  miles.  Still  further 
to  the  eastward,  on  the  other  side  of  Hayti,  lies  Porto 
Rico  (like  Cuba  a  Spanish  possession),  and  the  two 
groups  of  islands  known  as  the  Leeward  and  Wind- 
ward isles.  These  are  of  various  nationalities,  includ- 
ing English,  French,  and  Dutch,  thus  completing  the 
entire  region  familiarly  known  to  us  as  the  West 
Indies. 

In  approaching  the  coast  from  the  Windward  isles, 
the  observant  traveler  will  notice  the  fields  of  what 
is  called  gulf-weed,  which  floats  upon  the  surface  of 
the  sea.  It  is  a  unique  genus,  found  nowhere  ex- 
cept in  these  tropical  waters,  and  must  not  be  con- 
founded with  the  sea-weed  encountered  by  Atlantic 
steamers  off  the  Banks  of  Newfoundland,  and  about 
the  edges  of  tlie  Gulf  Stream  in  that  region.  This 
singular  and  interesting  weed  propagates  itself  on 
the  waves,  and  there  sustains,  as  on  the  shore  of 
New  Providence,  zoophytes  and  moUusks  which  also 
abound  in  these  latitudes.  The  poetical  theory  re- 
lating to  this  sargasso,  and  possibly  to  the  animals 


104 


DUE  SOUTH. 


that  cling  to  it,  is  that  it  marks  the  site  of  an  Atlan- 
tic continent  sunk  long  ages  since,  and  that,  trans- 
formed from  a  rooting  to  a  floating  plant,  it  wanders 
round  and  round  as  if  in  search  of  the  rocks  upon 
which  it  once  grew.  The  southern  shore  of  Cuba 
presents  much  of  special  interest  to  the  conchologist 
in  the  variety  and  beautj^  of  the  sea-shells  that  abound 
upon  its  beaclies.  The  water  is  of  an  exquisite  color, 
a  brilliant  green,  very  cliangeable,  like  liquid  opal. 
Were  an  artist  truthfully  to  depict  it,  he  would  be 
called  color-mad.  Northern  skies  are  never  reflected 
in  waters  of  such  fanciful  hues.  Some  beautiful  speci- 
mens of  white  corals  are  found  here,  but  they  are  not 
a  characteristic  of  the  coiist. 

On  that  portion  bordering  the  Old  Bahama  Channel, 
and  also  opposite  the  Isle  of  Pines,  which  Columbus 
named  Evangelista,  —  on  this  south  shore,  large  num- 
bers of  turtles  are  taken  annually,  which  produce 
the  best  quality  of  tortoise-shell.  It  is  strange  that 
the  habits  of  these  creatui'es  down  here  in  the  Carib- 
bean Sea  should  so  closely  resemble  those  of  the  tiny 
tortoises  described  by  Thoreau  as  frequenting  Wal- 
den  Pond.  The  female  turtle  digs  the  hole  in  which 
to  deposit  her  eggs  on  the  sandy  beach,  just  above  the 
margin  of  high  tide,  generally  choosing  a  moonlight 
night  for  the  purpose.  The  hole  is  often  so  large 
that  the  turtle  will  require  an  hour  of  industrious 
labor  to  dig  it  to  her  entire  satisfaction.  Observing 
the  strictest  silence,  the  turtle-hunter  steals  upon  the 
animal,  and  with  a  single  motion  turns  it  upon  its 
back,  rendering  it  utterly  helpless,  after  which  it  can 
be  secured  at  will.  Thousands  are  annually  caught 
in  this  manner. 

It  is  a  curious  fact  worth  recalling  to  memory  that 


THE  GULF  STREAM. 


105 


four  hundred  years  ago,  when  Columbus  first  hinded 
upon  the  island,  he  found  that  the  aborigines  kept- 
turtle  corrals  near  the  beach,  amply  supplied  with 
these  animals.  From  them  tbey  procured  eggs,  and 
also  furnished  themselves  with  the  only  meat  which 
it  was  possible  to  obtain,  if  we  except  that  of  the  little 
''voiceless  dog"  which  they  hunted,  and  such  birds  as 
they  could  snare.  Probably  as  many  turtles  were 
taken  by  those  Carib  Indians  in  1492  as  are  caught 
by  the  fishermen  this  year  of  our  Lord,  in  the  same 
waters,  showing  how  inexhaustible  is  the  supply  of 
Neptune's  kingdom.  Modern  epicures  may  not  there- 
fore claim  any  distinction  as  to  the  priority  of  dis- 
covery touching  turtle  soup  and  turtle  steaks,  both  of 
which  were  certainly  indulged  in  by  the  Caribs  in 
ColuQibus'  time,  and  probably  they  were  in  vogue 
many  centuries  previous. 

On^  neither  departs  from  nor  approaches  the  Cu- 
ban shore  without  crossing  that  marvelous  ocean 
river,  the  Gulf  Stream,  with  banks  and  bottom  of 
cold  water,  while  its  body  and  surface  are  warm.  Its 
color,  in  the  region  of  the  gulf  where  it  seems  to  have 
its  rise,  is  indigo  blue,  so  distinct  that  the  eye  can 
follow  its  line  of  demarkation  where  it  joins  the  com- 
mon waters  of  the  sea  in  their  prairie-green.  Its  sur- 
face temperature  on  the  coast  of  the  United  States  is 
from  75°  to  80°  Fahrenheit.  Its  current,  of  a  uni- 
form speed  of  four  to  five  miles  per  hour,  expends 
immense  power  in  its  course,  and  moves  a  body  of 
water  in  the  latitude  of  the  Carolina  coast  fully  two 
hundred  miles  wide.  This  aqueous  body  exceeds  in 
quantity  the  rivers  of  the  Mississippi  and  the  Ama- 
zon multiplied  one  thousand  times.  Its  temperature 
diminishes  very  gradually,  while  it  moves  thousands  of 


106 


DUE  SOUTH. 


leagues,  until  one  branch  loses  itself  in  Arctic  re- 
gions, and  the  other  breaks  on  the  coast  of  Europe. 
It  is  well  known  to  navigators  that  one  branch  of  the 
Gulf  Stream  finds  its  outlet  northward  from  the 
Caribbean  Sea  through  the  Windward  Passage,  and 
that  here  the  current  extends  to  the  depth  of  eight 
hundred  fathoms  ;  the  width,  however,  in  this  section 
is  not  over  ten  miles.  It  will  be  nothing  new  to  tell 
the  reader  that  the  sea,  especially  in  its  proximity  to 
the  continents,  has  a  similar  topographical  confor- 
mation beneath  its  surface.  The  bottom  consists  of 
hills,  mountains,  and  valleys,  like  the  surface  of  the 
earth  upon  which  we  live.  A  practical  illustration 
of  the  fact  is  afforded  in  the  soundings  taken  by  the 
ofiicers  of  our  Coast  Survey  in  the  Caribbean  Sea, 
where  a  valley  was,  found  giving  a  water  depth  of 
three  thousand  fathoms,  twenty-five  miles  south  of 
Cuba.  The  Cayman  islands,  in  that  neighborhood, 
are  the  summit  of  mountains  bordering  this  deep  val- 
ley at  the  bottom  of  the  sea.  It  is  known  to  extend 
over  seven  hundred  miles,  from  between  Cuba  and 
Jamaica  nearly  to  the  head  of  the  bay  of  Honduras, 
with  an  average  breadth  of  eighty  miles.  How  sug- 
gestive the  subject  of  these  submarine  Alps  !  Thus 
the  island  of  Grand  Cayman,  scarcely  twenty  feet 
above  sea  level,  is  the  top  of  a  mountain  twenty 
thousand  five  hundred  and  sixty-eight  feet  above  the 
bottom  of  the  submarine  valley  beside  which  it  rises, 
—  an  altitude  exceeding  that  of  any  mountain  on  the 
North  American  continent.  A  little  more  than  five 
miles,  or  say  twenty-seven  thousand  feet,  is  the  great- 
est depth  yet  sounded  at  sea. 

With  an  extensive  coast-line  particularly  wel] 
adapted  for  the  purpose,  smuggling  is  at  all  times 


PHYSICAL  CHARACTERISTICS  OF  CUBA.  107 


successfully  carried  on  in  Cuba,  stimulated  by  an 
almost  prohibitory  tariff.  It  is  well  understood  that 
many  of  the  most  prosperous  merchants  in  Havana 
are  secretly  engaged  in  this  business.  The  blindness 
of  minor  officials  is  easily  purchased.  The  eastern 
department  of  the  island  is  most  notorious  for  this 
class  of  illegal  trade.  It  was  through  these  agencies 
that  the  revolutionists  were  so  well  supplied  with 
arms,  ammunition,  and  other  necessities  during  the 
eight  years  of  civil  war.  While  we  are  writing  these 
lines,  the  cable  brings  us  news  of  a  fresh  landing  of 
filibusters  "  on  the  shores  in  this  immediate  neigh- 
borhood. 

Cuba  is  the  most  westerly  of  the  West  Indian  isles, 
and  compared  with  the  others  has  nearly  twice  as 
much  superficial  extent  of  territory,  being  about  as 
large  as  England  proper,  without  the  principality  of 
Wales.  Its  greatest  length  from  east  to  west  is  very 
nearly  eight  hundred  miles  ;  its  narrowest  part  is  over 
twenty  miles,  and  its  average  widtli  about  forty  miles. 
The  circumference  of  the  island  is  set  down  at  two 
thousand  miles,  and  it  is  supposed  to  contain  thirty- 
five  thousand  square  miles.  The  face  of  the  interior 
is  undulating,  with  an  average  level  of  three  hun- 
dred feet  above  the  surface  of  the  sea.  The  narrow 
form  of  the  island,  and  the  chain  of  mountains  which 
divides  it  throughout  its  whole  length,  leave  a  lim- 
ited course  for  its  rivers,  and  consequently  most  of 
these  in  the  rainy  season  become  torrents,  and  during 
the  rest  of  the  year  are  nearly  dried  up.  Those'' 
streams  which  sustain  themselves  at  all  seasons  are 
well  stocked  with  fine  fish,  and  afford  to  lovers  of  the 
piscatory  art  admirable  sport.  Near  their  mouths 
some  of  the  rivers,  like  those  of  the  opposite  coast  of 
Florida,  are  frequented  by  crocodiles. 


103 


DUE  SOUTH. 


The  chain  of  mountains  running  through  the  centre 
of  the  island,  more  or  less  broken  in  its  course,  is 
lofty  in  the  east,  but  gradually  diminishes  in  elevation 
towards  the  west,  until  it  becomes  a  series  of  gently 
undulating  hills  of  one  or  two  hundred  feet  above 
sea  level,  ceasing  as  a  connected  range  in  the  vicinity 
of  Matanzas.  On  the  easterly  end  this  range  of  moun- 
tains approaches  the  south  coast  between  Puerto 
Principe  and  Trinidad.  The  country  lying  between 
Cape  Cruz,  Cape  Maysi,  and  the  town  of  Holguin  has 
the  highest  elevations;  the  most  lofty  point,  Tur- 
quino,  lately  measured,  has  a  height  of  ten  thousand 
eight  hundred  feet.  Illustrative  of  the  great  revolu- 
tions which  the  globe  lias  undei'gone  in  its  several  geo- 
logical epochs,  petrified  shells  and  bivalves  are  found 
on  the  summits  of  these  highest  peaks,  surrounded 
by  coral  rocks,  both  of  which  differ  entirely  from 
those  at  present  existing  on  the  shores  of  the  Antilles. 
An  immense  bowlder  was  pointed  out  to  us  on  the 
summit  of  La  Gran  Piedra,  at  an  elevation  of  five 
thousand  feet,  of  totally  different  composition  from  any 
other  rocks  on  the  island.  The  great  mystery  is  how 
such  a  mass  of  solid  stone  could  have  got  there.  Most 
of  these  mountains  are  thickly  wooded,  some  of  them 
to  their  very  tops,  and  appear  to  be  in  a  perpetual 
state  of  verdure.  There  are  mahogany  trees  in  these 
hills  reported  to  be  of  almost  fabulous  dimensions, 
besides  other  trees  of  great  age.  Some  idea  of  the 
excellence  of  the  timber  grown  in  Cuba  may  be  had 
from  the  fact  that  over  one  hundred  Spanish  ships  of 
war  —  some  of  which  were  of  the  largest  size,  mount- 
ing a  hundred  and  twenty  guns  —  have  been  built 
from  native  stock  at  the  port  of  Havana. 

Copper  ore  is  found  in  abundance,  us  well  as  silver 


SUBTERRANEAN  CAVERNS. 


109 


and  iron,  in  the  mountains.  Snow  is  never  known  to 
fall  even  in  these  elevated  districts,  and  of  course  in 
no  other  part  of  the  island.  In  the  interior,  the  ex- 
treme heat  of  the  low-lying  sea-coast  and  cities  is  not 
experienced,  and  the  yellow  fever  is  unknown.  Low, 
level  swampy  land  is  found  only  on  the  southern 
coast,  where  there  are  some  wild  deer,  wild  cats  and 
dogs,  which  are  hunted;  the  former  introduced  into 
Cuba  half  a  century  since,  the  tvi^o  latter  descended 
from  domestic  animals.  Large  tracts  of  undulating 
country  are  without  trees,  affordhig  good  pasturage. 
In  some  of  the  mountains  are  extensive  caves,  not 
unlike  the  caves  of  Bellamar  near  the  city  of  Matan- 
zas,  in  which  are  still  to  be  found  the  bones  of  an 
unknown  race,  while  several  of  these  elevations  are 
so  precipitous  as  to  be  nearly  inaccessible. 

Travelers  who  have  visited  the  Bay  of  Biscay,  on 
the  French  and  Spanish  shore  near  Biarritz,  have  ob- 
served how  the  rocks  have  been  worn  into  caverns, 
arches,  alcoves,  and  honeycombed  formations  by  the 
action  of  the  waters  for  centuries.  Just  so  the  soft 
limestone  strata  beneath  the  surface  of  Cuba,  in  many 
portions  of  the  island,  have  been  hollowed  out,  tun- 
neled, and  formed  into  caves,  by  the  tremendous  down- 
pour and  wash  of  tropical  rains.  So  the  action  of  the 
sea  has  created  a  cave  under  Moro  Castle,  at  the  mouth 
of  the  harbor  of  Havana,  as  well  as  under  that  other 
Moro  which  stands  guard  over  the  entrance  of  Santi- 
ago de  Cuba.  The  existence  of  these  subterranean 
caverns  has  often  led  to  serious  accidents.  In  some 
instances  buildings  which  were  by  chance  erected 
just  over  them  have  suddenly  been  swallowed  up  as 
though  by  an  earthquake. 

Many  of  the  rivers  are  navigable  for  short  distances. 


110 


DUE  SOUTH. 


The  longest  is  the  Cauto,  in  the  eastern  department, 
which,  rising  in  the  Sierra  del  Cobre,  passes  between 
Holguin  and  Jiguani,  and  empties  on  the  south  coast 
a  little  north  of  ilanzanillo.  It  is  navigable  for  half 
its  length,  between  fifty  and  sixty  leagues.  The  river 
Ay  has  falls  in  its  course  two  hundred  feet  high,  and 
a  natural  bridge  spanning  it,  nearly  as  remarkable  as 
that  of  Virginia.  The  Sagua  le  Grande  is  navigable 
for  five  leagues,  and  the  same  may  be  said  of  tlie  river 
Sasa.  The  Agabama,  emptying  on  the  south  coast 
near  Trinidad,  is  also  partially  navigable.  There 
are  two  hundred  and  sixty  rivers  in  all,  independent 
of  rivulets  and  torrents.  So  abundantly  is  the  island 
supplied  with  fresh-water  springs,  especially  on  the 
south  side,  that  the  pure  liquid  filters  through  the 
fissures  of  the  stratified  rock  in  such  quantities  as  to 
form,  by  hydrostatic  pressure,  springs  in  the  sea  it- 
self some  distance  from  tlie  shore.  The  sulphurous 
and  thermal  springs  of  San  Diego  are  the  resort  of 
numerous  invalids  annually,  who  come  hither  from 
Europe  and  America. 

The  coast  and  liarbors  of  Cuba  are  carefully  mnrked 
for  the  purpose  of  navigation  by  eighteen  well-placed 
lighthouses,  visible  from  fifteen  to  twenty  miles  at 
sea,  according  to  the  importance  of  the  surround- 
ing points.  That  which  stands  in  Moro  Castle,  on 
the  south  side  of  the  harbor's  entrance  at  Havana, 
is  eighty  feet  in  height  and  about  a  hundred  and 
fifty  from  the  level  of  the  sea.  It  is  visible  in 
clear  weather  twenty  miles  from  shore.  In  honor  of 
a  former  Governor-General  this  lighthouse  bears  the 
inscription  "  O'Donnell,  1844,"  in  mammoth  letters. 
So  plain  and  safe  is  the  entrance  to  this  harbor,  which 
in  the  narrowest  part  is  some  hundred  yards  wide^ 


FINE  HARBORS, 


111 


that  a  pilot  is  hardly  necessary,  though  foreign  ves- 
sels generally  take  one.  There  is  little  or  no  tide  on 
this  part  of  the  coast,  the  variations  never  exceeding 
two  feet.  No  regular  ebb  and  flow  is  therefore  ob- 
servable, but  when  the  land  breeze  rises  there  is  a 
very  slight  tide-way  setting  out  of  the  harbor.  No 
country  in  the  world  of  the  size  of  this  island  has  so 
many  large  and  fine  harbors.  They  number  twenty- 
nine  on  its  northern  side  and  twenty-eight  on  the 
southern.  The  well-defined  water-line  along  the 
yellow,  rusty  rocks  of  the  coast  shows  the  mark  of 
ages,  and  also  that  there  has  been  no  upheaval  since 
the  land  took  its  present  shape.  Where  there  are  no 
regular  harbors  the  shore  is  indented  with  numerous 
deep  channels  forming  inlets,  safe  only  for  native 
boatmen,  as  the  winding  course  of  the  blue  waters 
covers  myriads  of  sunken  rocks.  On  the  southern 
side,  opposite  the  Isle  of  Pines,  there  are  some  beauti- 
ful reaches  of  beach,  over  which  the  gentle  surf  rolls 
continuously  with  a  murmur  so  soft  as  to  seem  like 
the  whispered  secrets  of  the  sea.  Yet  what  frightful 
historic  memories  brood  over  these  deep  waters  of  the 
Archipelago,  where  for  nearly  two  centuries  floated 
and  fought  the  ships  of  sea-robbeis  of  every  nation- 
ality, and  where  the  cunning  but  guilty  slave-clippers, 
fresh  from  the  coast  of  Africa,  loaded  with  kidnapped 
men  and  women,  made  their  harbor !  With  all  their 
dreamy  beauty,  the  tropics  are  full  of  sadness,  both 
in  their  past  and  present  history. 

The  occasional  hurricanes,  which  prove  so  disastrous 
to  the  Bahamas  and  other  isles  in  the  immediate 
vicinity  of  Cuba,  rarely  extend  their  influence  to  its 
shores,  but  the  bursts  of  fury  which  these  usually 
tranquil  seas  sometimes  indulge  in  are  not  excelled  in 
violence  in  the  worst  typhoon  regions. 


112 


DUE  SOUTH. 


The  nearest  port  of  the  island  to  this  continent  is 
Matiinzas,  lying  due  south  from  Cape  Sable,  Florida, 
a  distance  of  a  hundred  and  thirty  miles.  Havana 
is  located  some  sixty  miles  west  of  Matanzas,  and  it  is 
here  that  the  island  divides  the  entrance  to  the  Gulf 
of  Mexico,  whose  coast-line,  measuring  six  thousand 
miles,  finds  the  outlet  of  its  commerce  along  the  shore 
of  Cuba,  almost  within  range  of  the  guns  in  More 
Castle.  Lying  thus  at  our  very  door  as  it  were,  this 
island  stands  like  a  sentinel,  guarding  the  approaches 
of  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  whose  waters  wash  the  shores 
of  five  of  the  United  States,  and  by  virtue  of  the  same 
position  barring  the  entrance  of  the  great  river  which 
drains  half  the  continent  of  North  America.  Nor 
does  the  importance  of  the  situation  end  here.  Cuba 
keeps  watch  and  ward  over  our  communication  with 
California  by  way  of  the  isthmus.  The  peculiar  for- 
mation of  the  southeastern  shore  of  this  continent,  and 
the  prevalence  of  the  trade-winds,  with  the  oceanic 
current  from  east  to  west,  make  the  ocean  passage 
skirting  the  shore  of  Cuba  the  natural  outlet  for  t!ie 
commerce  also  of  Venezuela,  New  Granada,  Costa 
Eica,  and  Nicaragua.  It  is  not  surprising,  therefore, 
when  we  realize  the  commanding  position  of  the  isl- 
and, that  so  much  of  interest  attaches  to  its  ultimate 
destiny. 

Cuba  seems  formed  to  become  the  very  button  on 
Fortune's  cap.  No  wonder  that  the  Abbe  Raynal 
pronounced  it  to  be  the  boulevard  of  the  New  World, 
or  that  the  Spanish  historian  called  it  the  fairest 
emerald  in  the  crown  of  Ferdinand  and  Isabella. 
Under  any  other  government  in  Christendom  than  that 
of  Spain,  the  island  would  to-day  have  been  one  vast 
smiling  garden,  for  its  natural  advantages  are  abso- 


CLIMATE, 


113 


lutely  unequaled.  To  oppress  and  rob  its  inhabitants 
has  been  the  unvarying  policy  of  the  liome  govern- 
ment from  first  to  last.  The  undisguised  system  has 
been  to  extort  from  them  every  farthing  possible  in 
the  way  of  taxes.  No  legitimate  business  could  sus- 
tain itself  against  the  enormous  exactions  of  the  Span- 
ish rule.  Coffee  and  cotton  planting  have  been  abso- 
lutely driven  out  of  the  island  by  the  taxes  imposed 
upon  their  production.  In  short,  the  mother  country 
has  carried  her  system  of  oppression  and  despotism  in 
Cuba  to  the  utmost  stretch  of  human  audacity. 

Probably  no  place  has  a  finer  or  more  desirable 
climate  than  has  the  main  portion  of  Cuba,  with  the 
clear  atmosphere  of  the  low  latitudes,  no  mist,  the 
sun  seldom  obscured,  and  a  season  of  endless  summer. 
We  do  not  wonder  that  the  Northern  invalid  turns  in- 
stinctively towards  so  inviting  a  clime,  where  Nature 
in  all  her  moods  is  so  regal.  The  appearance  of  the 
sky  at  night  is  far  brighter  and  more  beautiful  than 
at  the  North.  The  atmosphere  does  not  seem  to 
lose  its  transparency  with  the  departure  of  the  day. 
Sunset  is  remarkable  for  its  soft  mellow  beauty,  all 
too  brief  to  a  New  England  eye  accustomed  to  the 
lingering  brilliancy  of  our  twilights.  For  more  than 
half  a  century  the  island  has  been  the  resort  of  inva- 
lids from  colder  climes  in  search  of  health,  especially 
those  laboring  under  pulmonary  affections.  Such 
have  rai'ely  failed  to  realize  more  or  less  benefit  from 
the  mild  and  equable  temperature.  The  climate  so 
uniformly  soft  and  soothing,  the  vegetation  so  thriv- 
ing and  beautiful,  the  fruits  so  delicious  and  abun- 
dant, give  it  a  character  akin  to  fairyland.  Here 
Nature  seems  ever  in  a  tender,  loving  mood,  the  very 
opposite  of  her  cold  temperament  at  the  North. 

8 


114 


DUE  SOUTH. 


The  best  time  to  visit  the  island,  for  those  who 
do  so  ill  search  of  health,  is  from  the  beginning  of 
January  to  the  middle  of  May.  It  is  imprudent  to 
remain  in  the  cities  of  Cuba  later  than  the  latter  pe- 
riod, as  the  fever  season  then  commences.  The  in- 
valid will  find  that  very  many  physical  comforts,  and 
some  things  deemed  imperative  at  home,  must  be 
sacrificed  here  as  quite  unattainable :  such,  for  in- 
stance, as  good  beds,  strict  cleanliness,  good  milk,  and 
sweet  butter.  The  climatic  advantages  must  suffice 
for  such  deprivations.  During  the  greater  portion  of 
the  year  it  is  dry  and  hot,  the  rainy  season  com- 
mencing in  June  and  ending  in  September.  The 
northeast  trade-winds  blow  over  the  island  from' 
March  to  October,  and  though  it  is  especially  impor- 
tant to  avoid  all  draughts  in  the  tropics,  still  one  can 
always  find  a  sufliciently  cool  and  comfortable  tem- 
perature somewhere,  when  the  trade-wind  prevails. 
To  persons  in  the  early  stages  of  consumption  this 
region  holds  forth  great  promise  of  relief ;  the  author 
can  bear  witness  of  remarkable  benefit  having  been 
realized  in  many  instances.  At  the  period  of  the 
year  when  New  England  invalids  most  require  to 
avoid  the  rigors  of  the  prevailing  east  winds,  namely, 
in  February,  March,  April,  and  early  May,  the  island 
of  Cuba  is  in  the  glory  of  high  summer,  and  enjoying 
the  healthiest  period  of  its  annual  returns.  When 
consumption  originates  in  the  island,  —  as  was  also 
found  to  be  the  case  at  Nassau,  — it  runs  its  course 
to  a  fatal  end  with  such  rapidity  that  the  natives 
consider  it  to  be  a  contagious  disease.  Early  in  May 
the  unacclimated  would  do  well  to  leave,  taking  pas- 
sage up  the  Gulf  to  New  Orleans,  or  across  the  Gulf 
Stream,  which  here  runs  thirty-two  miles  in  widths 


CLIMATE, 


115 


to  Key  West,  Florida,  thence  by  boat  to  Tampa  Bay, 
and  by  railroad  to  Sanford,  and  by  the  St.  John's 
River  to  St.  Augustine,  enjoying  a  brief  stay  at  the 
latter  places,  wliere  every  requisite  convenience  can 
be  enjoyed.  Jacksonville  should  not  be  missed,  and 
by  coming  north  thus  slowly  and  pleasantly,  the 
change  of  climate  is  not  realized,  and  June  weather 
will  greet  the  returning  traveler  with  genial  warmth. 

Owing  to  the  proximity  of  the  northwestern  part 
of  Cuba  to  our  own  continent,  the  climate  is  somewhat 
variable,  and  at  a  height  of  five  hundred  feet  above 
the  level  *of  the  sea,  ice  is  sometimes,  though  rarely 
formed  ;  but,  as  has  already  been  said  in  these  notes, 
snow  never  falls  upon  the  island.  At  long  intervals 
Cuba  has  been  visited  by  brief  hailstorms,  and  per- 
sons who  tell  you  this  will  add,  but  we  never  have 
known  it  in  our  day."  In  the  cities  and  near  the 
swamps,  the  yellow  fever,  that  scourge  of  all  hot 
climates,  prevails  from  the  middle  of  June  to  the  last 
of  October ;  but  in  the  interior  of  the  island,  where 
the  visitor  is  at  a  wholesome  distance  from  humidity 
and  stagnant  water,  it  is  no  more  unhealthy  than  our 
own  cities  in  summer.  It  is  doubtful  if  Havana,  even 
in  the  fever  season,  is  any  more  unhealthy  than  New 
Orleans  at  the  same  period  of  the  year.  Fevers  of 
different  degrees  of  malignity  prevail  from  May  to 
November,  and  occasionally  throughout  the  year. 
Among  these  the  yellow  fever  is  the  most  dangerous, 
and  sooner  or  later  all  resident  foreigners  seem  to 
suffer  from  it,  as  a  sort  of  acclimation  ;  once  experi- 
enced, however,  one  is  seldom  attacked  a  second  time. 
In  the  ports  yellow  fever  is  often  induced  by  careless- 
ness and  exposure  ;  excesses  on  the  part  of  foreign 
sailors  are  frequently  the  cause  of  its  fatal  attack 


116 


DUE  SOUTH. 


upon  them.  The  thermometer  is  never  known  to 
rise  so  high  in  Havana  or  Santiago,  tlie  opposite  ex- 
tremes of  the  island,  as  it  does  sometimes  in  New 
York  and  Boston.  The  average  temperature  is  re- 
corded as  being  77°,  maximum  89"^,  minimum  50° 
Fahrenheit.  We  have  been  thus  elaborate  as  regards 
this  matter  because  it  is  of  such  general  interest  to  all 
invalids  who  annually  seek  an  equable  clime. 

The  principal  cities  are  Havana,  with  a  population 
of  nearly  three  hundred  thousand ;  Matanzas,  with 
fifty  thousand ;  Puerto  Principe,  thirty  thousand ; 
Cienfuegos,  twenty-five  thousand  ;  Trinidad,  fourteen 
thousand;  San  Salvador,  ten  thousand;  Manzanillo, 
Cardenas,  Nuevitas,  Sagua  la  Grande,  and  Mariel. 
Among  its  largest  and  finest  harbors  those  of  Havana, 
Santiago  de  Cuba,  Nipe,  and  Nuevitas  are  the  best; 
the  bay  of  Matanzas  is  also  large,  but  shallow.  This 
city  stands  next  to  Havana  in  population,  but  not 
in  commercial  importance.  It  is  said  to  be  healthier 
than  the  capital,  but  it  lacks  those  attractions  of  life 
and  gayety  which  are  essential  even  to  invalids  to 
render  them  contented.  The  streets  are  wide,  and 
many  of  the  Moorish  characteristics  of  Spanish  cities, 
so  common  in  both  this  island  and  the  European  pen- 
insula, are  wanting  here.  It  was  built  much  later 
and  more  under  foreign  direction  than  Havana.  The 
secret  of  the  superior  health  of  Matanzas  over  that 
of  the  capital  is  undoubtedly  because  of  its  better 
drainage  and  general  cleanliness. 

Located  in  one  of  the  most  fertile  portions  of  the 
island,  the  city  extends  up  the  picturesque  and  ver- 
dant hills  by  which  the  bay  is  surrounded,  in  the  form 
of  an  amphitheatre.  The  fortifications  are  of  rather 
a  meagre  character,  and  could  not  withstand  a  well- 


MATANZAS. 


117 


organized  attack  for  half  an  hour.  Modern  improve- 
ments in  the  construction  of  heavy  guns  and  projectiles 
have  rendered  all  the  forts  in  Cuba  of  no  importance 
as  a  means  of  defense  against  a  first-class  invading 
fleet.  The  custom  house  is  the  most  prominent  build- 
ing which  strikes  the  eye  on  approaching  the  city 
by  water ;  though  built  of  stone,  it  is  only  one  story 
in  height,  and  was  erected  at  the  commencement  of 
the  present  century.  On  the  heiglits  above  the  city 
the  inhabitants  have  planted  their  country  seats, 
from  whence  the  view  of  the  widespreading  bay  forms 
a  delightful  picture.  The  climate  is  thought  to  be 
especially  adapted  for  the  cure  of  throat  and  lung 
diseases,  and  the  city  is  annually  resorted  to  by  those 
seeking  relief  from  these  troubles,  as  also  by  those 
afflicted  with  neuralgia  and  rheumatism.  The  first 
land  made  by  southern-bound  steamers  from  Boston 
and  New  York  is  the  Monte  del  Pan,  or  Bread  Moun- 
tain, forming  a  lofty  background  for  the  city.  There 
are  three  large  churches  in  Matanzas,  a  well  appointed 
and  spacious  tlieatre,  a  bull-ring,  and  cock-pits.  Sta- 
tistics show  that  the  custom-house  receipts  of  the  port 
reach  about  two  million  dollars  annually.  There  are 
two  railroads  connecting  the  city  with  Havana,  one 
of  which  runs  also  to  the  interior  southeasterly  to 
Cienfuegos,  Sagua,  and  Villa  Clara,  intersecting  a 
rich  sugar-producing  country,  from  whence  it  brings 
a  large  amount  of  freight  to  the  coast  for  shipment. 
On  these  Cuban  roads  one  rides  in  American-built 
cars,  drawn  by  American  engines,  and  often  run  by 
American  engineers.  Railroads  were  in  use  in  Cuba 
before  they  were  adopted  in  any  other  Spanish-speak- 
ing country,  and  there  are  now  nearly  a  thousand 
miles  in  active  operation  on  the  island. 


118 


DUE  SOUTH. 


Matanzas  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  river 
Yumuri,  and  on  the  south  by  that  of  San  Juan.  The 
town  is  built  upon  the  site  of  a  former  Indian  village, 
known  to  the  early  discoverers  by  the  name  of  Yucayo. 
It  is  upon  the  whole  a  well-built  city,  containing  some 
small  public  squares  and  a  pretty  Plaza  de  Armas, 
like  that  of  Havana,  ornamented  witli  choice  trees 
and  flowers,  with  a  statue  of  Ferdinand  VII.  in  its 
centre.  It  was  in  this  square  that  Gabriel  Concepcioii 
de  la  Valdez,  a  mulatto  poet  and  patriot  of  Cuba,  was 
shot  by  the  soldiers  of  the  line.  He  was  accused  of 
complicity  with  the  slave  insurrection  of  1844,  when 
the  blacks  attempted  to  gain  their  freedom.  At  the 
time  of  his  execution  the  first  volley  fired  by  the 
troops  failed  to  touch  a  vital  spot,  and  the  brave  vic- 
tim, bleeding  from  many  wounds,  still  stood  erect,  fac- 
ing his  executioners.  He  then  pointed  to  his  heart, 
and  said  in  a  calm  clear  voice,  Aim  here  !  "  The 
order  was  at  once  obeyed,  and  the  second  volley  sent 
the  heroic  man  to' that  haven  where  there  is  no  dis- 
tinction as  to  color.  This  martyr,  of  whom  compara- 
tively little  is  known  to  the  public,  possessed  all  the 
true  elements  of  a  poet.  Many  of  his  productions 
have  been  preserved  in  print,  and  some  were  trans- 
lated and  republished  in  England  a  few  years  since. 

The  Plaza  of  Matanzas  is  small,  smaller  even  than 
that  of  Cienfuegos,  but  it  presents  within  its  circum- 
scribed space  a  great  variety  of  tropical  trees  and 
flowers,  over  which  stand,  sentinel-like,  a  few  royal 
palms  with  their  ashen-gray  stems  and  concentric 
rings.  The  star  of  Bethlehem,  fifteen  feet  high, 
was  here  seen  full  of  lovely  scarlet  blossoms ;  the 
southern  jasmine,  yellow  as  gold,  was  in  its  glory ; 
mignonette,  grown  to  a  graceful  tree  of  twenty  feet 


THE  PLAZA. 


119 


in  height,  was  fragrant  and  full  of  blossoms,  close 
beside  the  delicate  vinca,  decked  in  white  and  red. 
Some  broad-leaved  bananas  were  thriving  in  the 
Plaza,  while  creeping  all  over  that  tree  and  shrub 
combined,  the  Spanish  bayonet,  were  pink,  purple, 
and  white  morning-glories,  at  once  so  familiar  and 
suggestive.  Opposite  the  Plaza  are  several  gov- 
ernment offices,  and  two  or  three  very  large,  fine 
club-houses,  remarkable  for  the  excellence  of  their 
appointments  and  the  spaciousness  of  the  public 
rooms.  Club  life  prevails  in  Matanzas,  as  usual  at 
the  expense  of  domestic  life,  just  as  it  does  in  Ha- 
vana, being  very  much  like  London  in  this  respect. 
It  is  forbidden  to  discuss  politics  in  these  clubs, 
the  hours  being  occupied  mostly  over  games  of 
chance,  such  as  cards,  dominoes,  chess,  and  checkers. 
Gambling  is  as  natural  and  national  in  Cuba  as  in 
China.  Many  Chinese  are  seen  about  the  streets 
and  stores  of  Matanzas,  as,  indeed,  all  over  the  island 
—  poor  fellows  who  have  survived  their  apprenticeship 
and  are  now  free.  They  are  peaceful,  do  not  drink 
spirits,  work  from  morning  until  night,  never  meddle 
with  politics,  and  live  on  one  half  they  can  earn,  so  as 
to  save  enough  to  return  to  their  beloved  native  land. 
You  may  persuade  him  to  assent  to  any  form  of 
religion  as  a  temporary  duty,  but  John  is  a  heathen 
at  heart,  and  a  heathen  he  will  die. 

The  famous  afternoon  drive  of  Matanzas  was  for- 
merly the  San  Carlos  Paseo,  It  has  fine  possibilities, 
and  is  lined  and  beautifully  ornamented  with  thrifty 
Indian  laurels.  It  overlooks  the  spacious  harbor  and 
outer  bay,  but  is  now  utterly  neglected  and  aban- 
doned; even  the  roadway  is  green  with  vegetation 
and  gullied  with  deep  hollow^s.    It  is  the  coolest  place 


120 


DUE  SOUTH. 


in  the  city  at  the  evening  hour,  but  the  people  have 
become  so  poor  that  there  are  hardly  a  dozen  private 
vehicles  owned  in  the  city,  and,  consequently,  its 
famous  drive  is  deserted.  Matanzas,  like  all  the 
cities  of  Cuba,  is  under  the  shadow  of  depressed 
business,  the  evidences  of  which  meet  one  on  all 
hands. 

The  two  objects  of  special  interest  to  strangers 
who  visit  Matanzas  are,  first,  the  valley  of  the 
Yumuri,  which  may  be  described  briefly  as  a  narrow 
gorge  four  miles  long,  through  which  flows  the  river 
of  the  same  name.  The  view  of  this  lovely  valley 
will  recall,  to  any  one  who  has  visited  Spain,  the  Vega 
of  Granada.  There  are  several  positions  from  which 
to  obtain  a  good  view  of  the  valley,  but  that  enjoyed 
from  the  Chapel  of  Monserrate,  on  the  hill  just  back 
of  the  tow^n,  is  nearest,  and  was  most  satisfactory  to 
us.  The  view  includes  a  valley,  peaceful,  tropical, 
and  verdant,  embracing  plantations,  groves,  and 
farms,  in  the  midst  of  which  the  river  glides  like  a 
silver  thread  through  the  verdure,  and  empties  into 
the  Bay  of  Matanzas.  The  universal  belief  is  that 
this  vale  w^as  once  a  vast,  deep  lake,  walled  across 
the  present  seaward  opening  of  the  valley,  from 
whence  a  fall  may  have  existed  aa  a  natural  overflow. 
Some  fearful  convulsion  of  nature  rent  this  bowl  and 
precipitated  the  lake  into  the  ocean,  leaving  only  the 
river's  course. 

The  second  object  of  note  which  the  visitor  will 
not  willingly  miss  is  a  sight  of  the  famous  caves  of 
Bellamar,  situated  about  two  leagues  from  the  city 
proper.  It  is  customary  to  make  this  trip  in  a 
volante,  and  it  is  quite  the  thing  to  ride,  at  least  once, 
in  this  unique  vehicle,  the  only  article  ever  invented 


CAVES  OF  BELL  AM  AR. 


121 


in  Cuba.  The  voacl  to  the  Ccives  is  extremely  rough, 
and  this  vehicle  is  best  adai)ted  to  pass  over  the 
irregularities.  If  there  are  only  gentlemen  of  tlie 
party,  go  on  horseback.  On  entering  the  caves  the 
visitor  should  throw  off  any  extra  clothing  that  can 
conveniently  be  left  behind,  as  it  is  very  warm  within, 
and  on  coming  out,  unless  one  has  an  extra  garment 
to  put  on,  too  great  a  change  of  temperature  will  be 
realized.  These  singular  caves  lead  three  hundred 
feet  and  more  beneath  the  surface,  and  present  beau- 
ties to  the  eye  incident  to  all  sueh  subterranean 
formations.  They  were  discovered  accidentally,  a 
few  years  since,  by  some  stone  quai'riers,  who,  on  open- 
ing into  them,  imagined  they  had  broken  the  crust 
of  the  earth.  In  driving  to  the  caves  the  Bay  Street 
road,  through  the  city,  should  be  taken,  which  forms 
one  of  the  finest  thoroughfares  of  any  Cuban  town. 
The  architecture  of  the  dwellings  is  that  of  combined 
Italian,  Grecian,  and  Moorish,  ornamented  with  cohm- 
nades  and  verandas  of  stone  and  iron.  Fine  as  the 
facades  of  these  houses  are,  —  none  above  one  story 
in  height,  —  they  present  a  faded  and  forlorn  aspect, 
a  sort  of  dead-and-alive  appearance,  yet  in  accordance 
with  life  and  business,  not  only  in  Matanzas,  but  all 
over  the  island.  This  one  boulevard  of  Matanzas 
ends  by  the  shore  of  the  bay,  where  the  fine  marine 
view  will  cause  you  to  forget  all  other  impressions 
for  the  moment,  but  you  will  not  tarry  here.  Turn- 
ing eastward  you  soon  strike  the  road  to  the  caves, 
and  such  a  road  —  it  is  like  the  bed  of  a  dry  moun- 
tain torrent. 

Persons  visiting  Matanzas  must  make  up  their 
minds  to  be  content  with  indifferent  hotel  accommo- 
dations.   In  fact  there  are  no  really  good  hotels  in 


122 


DUE  SOUTH. 


Cuba ;  those  which  exist  are  poor  and  expensive. 
On  the  inland  routes  away  from  the  cities  tht-re  are 
none,  and  tlie  humble  hostelries,  or  posadas,  as  they 
are  called,  are  so  indifferent  in  point  of  comforts  as 
not  to  deserve  the  name  of  inns.  As  a  rule,  invalids 
rarely  go  beyond  the  cities  to  remain  over  night. 
Brief  and  pleasant  sojourns  may  be  made  at  Havana, 
Cienfuegos,  Matanzas,  and  Sagua  la  Grande,  from 
whence  excursions  can  be  made  by  rail  or  otherwise 
and  return  on  the  same  day.  Let  us  qualify  these 
remarks,  as  applied  to  the  Hotel  Louvre  at  Matanzas. 
'Jliere  was  a  degree  of  picturesqueness  about  this 
establishment  which  was  not  without  its  attraction, 
and  it  was  certainly  the  most  cleanly  public  house 
in  which  we  found  a  temporary  home  while  on  the 
island.  Its  rooms  surrounded  a  bright  clean  court, 
or  patio,  planted  with  creeping  vines,  palmettos, 
bananas,  and  some  fragrant  flowering  shrubs.  The 
dining-room  is  virtually  out  of  doors,  being  open  on 
all  sides,  and  opposite  the  hotel  is  a  small  plaza  with 
tropical  trees,  backed  by  an  old,  musty  church, 
whose  bell  had  the  true  Spanisli  trick  of  giving 
tongue  at  most  inopportune  moments.  The  rooms 
of  the  Louvre  are  quite  circumscribed  as  to  space, 
and  the  partitions  separating  the  apartments  do  not 
reach  to  the  ceiling,  so  that  privacy,  night  or  day,  is 
out  of  the  question.  The  floors  are  all  tiled  in  white 
marble,  and  the  attendance  is  courteous.  One  does 
not  look  for  a  choice  bill  of  fare  in  Cuba,  and  there- 
fore will  not  be  disappointed  on  that  score.  You  will 
be  charged  Fifth  Avenue  prices,  however,  if  yon  do 
not  get  Fifth  Avenue  accommodations.  If  you  have 
learned  in  your  travels  to  observe  closely,  to  study 
men  as  well  as  localities,  to  enjoy  Nature  in  her  ever- 


PUERTO  PRINCIPE  —  CARDENAS. 


123 


varying  moods,  and  to  delight  in  luxurious  fruits, 
flowers,  and  vegetation,  you  will  find  quite  enough  to 
occupy  and  amuse  the  mind,  and  make  you  forget 
altogether  the  grosser  senses  of  appetite. 

Puerto  Prhicipe  is  the  capital  of  the  central  de- 
partment of  Cuba,  and  is  located  well  inland.  The 
trade  of  the  place,  from  the  want  of  water  carriage, 
is  inconsiderable,  and  bears  no  proportion  to  tlie 
number  of  its  inhabitants,  which  aggregates  nearly 
thirty-one  thousand.  The  product  of  the  neighbor- 
hood, to  find  means  of  export,  must  first  make  its 
way  twelve  and  a  half  leagues  to  Nuevitas,  from 
whence,  in  return,  it  receives  its  foreign  supplies. 
The  two  places  are  now,  however,  connected  by  a 
railroad.  Puerto  Principe  is  about  one  hundred  and 
fifty  leagues  from  Havana.  Its  original  location,  as 
founded  by  Velasquez  in  1514,  was  at  Nuevitas,  but 
the  inhabitants,  when  the  place  was  feeble  in  num- 
bers, were  forced  to  remove  from  the  coast  to  avoid 
the  fierce  incursions  of  the  pirates,  as  did  the  people 
of  Trinidad,  who  removed  from  the  harbor  of  Casilda. 

Cardenas  is  situated  a  hundred  and  twenty  miles 
from  Havana  on  the  north  coast,  and  is  the  youngest 
town  of  note  in  Cuba,  having  been  founded  so  late  as 
1827.  It  has  a  population  of  between  four  and  five 
thousand.  Its  prosperity  is  mostly  owing  to  the 
great  fertility  of  the  land  by  which  it  is  surrounded. 
It  is  called  the  American  city,  because  of  the  large 
number  of  Americans  doing  business  here,  and  also 
because  the  English  language  is  so  universally  spoken 
by  the  people  who  reside  in  the  place.  The  Plaza 
contains  an  excellent  marble  statue  of  Columbus,  and 
is  tastefully  ornamented  with  tropical  verdure.  In 
the  harbor  of  Cardenas  is  seen  one  of  those  curious 


124 


DUE  SOUTH. 


springs  of  fresh  water  which  bubble  np  beneath  (lie 
salt  sea.  The  city  is  the  centre  of  a  sugar-producing 
district,  and  a  considerable  portion  of  the  sugar  crop 
of  the  vicinity  of  Havana  is  also  shipped  from  this 
port  to  America.  It  is  connected  with  both  the 
metropolis  and  Matanzas  by  rail,  and  is  well  worthy 
of  a  visit  by  all  who  can  find  the  necessary  time  for 
doing  so. 

Between  Havana  and  Nuevitas,  along  the  northern 
slope  of  the  island,  are  many  vast  tracts  of  unim- 
proved land  of  the  best  quality.  Much  of  it  is  over- 
grown with  cedar,  ebony,  mahogany,  and  other 
valuable  timber  ;  but  a  large  proportion  is  savanna 
or  prairie,  which  might,  with  little  difficulty,  be  re- 
duced to  cultivation.  Tlie  timber  alone,  which  is 
often  found  in  large  compact  bodies,  would  pay  the 
cost  of  the  land  and  the  expense  of  clearing  it.  Many 
branches  of  agriculture  are  neglected  which  might  be 
made  very  remunerative,  but  it  will  never  be  brought 
about  except  by  foreign  capital  and  tact.  The  na- 
tives have  not  the  requisite  enterprise  and  industry. 
While  these  chapters  are  passing  through  the  press, 
the  home  government  is  discussing  in  the  Cortes  the 
propriety  of  making  a  large  loan  to  the  Cubans  for 
the  purpose  of  bringing  the  lands  above  referred  to 
into  market,  as  well  as  rendering  others  accessible. 
But  it  is  doubtful  if  anything  practical  is  accom- 
plished, unless  foreign  interest  should  be  enlisted. 


CHAPTER  VII. 


City  of  Havana.  —  First  Impressions.  —  The  Harbor.  —  Institutions. 
—  Lack  of  Educational  Facilities.  —  Cuban  Women.  —  Street 
Etiquette.  —  Architecture.  —  Domestic  Arrangements.  —  Barred 
Windows  and  Bullet- Proof  Doors.  — Public  Vehicles.  —  Uncleanli- 
ness  of  the  Streets.  —  Spanish  or  African  !  —  The  Church  Bells.  — 
Ilome-Keeping  Habits  of  Ladies.  —  Their  Patriotism.  —  Personal 
Characteristics.  —  Low  Ebb  of  Social  Life.  —  Priestcraft.  —  Fe- 
male Virtue. —  Domestic  Ties.  —  A  Festive  Population.  —  Cos- 
metics.—  Sea-Bathing. 

Havana  is  a  thoroughly  representative  city,  — 
Cuban  and  nothing  else.  Its  history  embraces  in  no 
small  degree  that  of-  all  the  island,  being  the  centre 
of  its  talent,  wealth,  and  population.  It  has  long 
been  reckoned  the  eighth  commercial  capital  of  the 
world.  Moro  Castle,  with  its  Dahlgren  guns  peeping 
out  through  the  yellow  stones,  and  its  tall  sentinel 
lighthouse,  stands  guard  over  tlie  narrow  entrance  of 
the  harbor ;  the  battery  of  La  Punta  on  tlie  opposite 
shore  answering  to  the  Moro.  There  are  also  the 
long  range  of  cannon  and  barracks  on  the  city  side, 
and  the  massive  fortress  of  the  Cabanas  crowning  the 
hill  behind  the  Moro.  All  these  are  decorated  with 
the  red  and  yellow  flag  of  Spain,  —  the  banner  of 
blood  and  gold.  So  many  and  strong  fortifications 
show  how  important  the  home  government  regard 
the  place. 

The  harbor  or  bay  is  shaped  like  one's  outspread 
hand,  with  the  wrist  for  an  entrance,  and  is  populous 
with  the  ships  of  all  nations.    It  presents  at  all  times 


126 


DUE  SOUTH. 


a  scene  of  great  maritime  activity.  Besides  the  na- 
tional ships  of  other  countries  and  those  of  Spain, 
mail  steamers  from  Europe  and  America  are  coming 
and  going  daily,  also  coasting  steamers  from  the 
eastern  and  southern  shores  of  the  island,  added  to 
regular  lines  for  Mexico  and  the  islands  of  the  Carib- 
bean Sea.  The  large  ferry  steamers  plying  constantly 
between  the  city  and  the  Regla  shore,  the  fleet  of 
little  sailing  boats,  foreign  yachts,  and  rowboats, 
glancing  in  the  burning  sunlight,  create  a  scene  of 
great  maritime  interest. 

The  city  presents  a  large  extent  of  public  buildings, 
cathedrals,  antique  and  venerable  churches.  It  has 
been  declared  in  its  prosperity  to  be  the  richest  place 
for  its  number  of  square  miles  in  the  world,  but  this 
cannot  be  said  of  it  at  the  present  time.  There  is 
nothing  grand  in  its  appearance  as  one  enters  the  har- 
bor and  comes  to  anchor,  though  Baron  Humboldt 
pronounced  it  the  gayest  and  most  picturesque  sight 
in  America.  Its  multitude  of  churches,  domes,  and 
steeples  are  not  architecturally  remarkable,  and  are 
dominated  by  the  colossal  prison  near  the  shore.  This 
immense  quadrangular  edifice  flanks  the  Punta,  and  is 
designed  to  contain  five  thousand  prisoners  at  a  time. 
The  low  hills  which  make  up  the  distant  background 
are  not  sufficiently  high  to  add  much  to  the  general  ef- 
fect. The  few  palm  trees  which  catch  the  eye  here  and 
there  give  an  Oriental  aspect  to  the  scene,  quite  in 
harmony  with  the  atmospheric  t(me  of  intense  sun- 
shine. Unlike  Santiago  or  Matanzas,  neither  the  city 
nor  its  immediate  environs  is  elevated,  so  that  the 
whole  impression  is  that  of  flatness,  requiring  some 
strength  of  background  to  form  a  complete  picture. 
The  martial  appearance  of  the  Moro  and  the  Cabanas, 


THE  HARBOR  — EDUCATION. 


127 


bristling  with  cannon,  is  the  most  vivid  effect  of  the 
scene,  taken  as  a  whole.  It  might  be  a  portion  of 
continental  Spain  broken  away  from  European  moor- 
ings, and  floated  hither  to  find  anchorage  in  the  Ca- 
ribbean Sea.  One  is  also  reminded  of  Malta,  in  the 
farther  Mediterranean,  and  yet  the  city  of  Valetta, 
bright,  sunny,  and  elevated,  is  quite  unlike  Havana, 
though  Fortress  St.  Angelo  overlooks  and  guards  the 
place  as  the  Moro  does  this  tropical  harbor,  and  Cuba 
is  the  Italy  of  America. 

The  waters  of  the  harbor,  admittedly  one  of  the 
finest  in  the  world,  are  most  of  the  time  extremely 
dirty.  Many  years  ago  a  canal  was  commenced  which 
was  designed  to  create  a  flowage  calcidated  to  keep 
the  harbor  clear  of  the  constantly  accumulating  filth, 
but  it  was  never  finished,  and  there  remains  an  evi- 
dence of  Spanish  inefliciency,  while  the  harbor  con- 
tinues to  be  a  vast  cesspool.  It  would  be  supposed 
that  in  a  fever-haunted  region,  great  attention  would 
be  bestowed  upon  the  matter  of  drainage,  but  this  is 
not  the  case  in  Havana,  or  other  cities  of  the  island. 
Most  of  the  effort  made  in  this  direction  is  surface 
drainage,  the  liquid  thus  exposed  quickly  evaporating 
in  the  hot  sunshine,  or  being  partially  absorbed  by 
the  soil  over  which  it  passes. 

Havana  contains  numerous  institutions  of  learning: 
a  Royal  University,  founded  in  1733,  a  medical  and 
law  school,  and  chairs  of  all  the  natural  sciences. 
In  spite  of  their  liberal  purposes  and  capabilities,  how- 
ever, there  is  a  blight  hanging  over  them.  Pupils  en- 
list cautiously  and  reluctantly.  Among  other  schools 
there  is  a  Royal  Seminary  for  girls,  scarcely  more  tlian 
a  name,  a  free  school  of  sculpture  and  painting,  and  a 
mercantile  school,  with  a  few  private  institutions  of 


128 


DUE  sourn. 


learning.  There  is  a  fairly  good  museum  of  natural 
Listor}^,  and  just  outside  the  city  a  botanical  garden. 
Still  the  means  of  education  Jire  very  liinitfd  in  Cuba, 
an  evidence  of  which  is  the  fact  that  so  many  of  her 
j^outh  of  both  sexes  are  sent  to  this  country  for  edu- 
cational purposes.  An  order  was  at  one  time  issued 
by  the  government  prohibiting  this,  but  its  arbitrary 
nature  was  so  very  outrageous,  even  for  a  Spanish 
government,  that  it  was  permitted  to  become  a  dead 
letter.  What  are  called  free  schools,  as  we  use  the 
term,  are  not  known  in  the  island ;  the  facilities  for 
obtaining  even  the  simplest  education  are  very  poor. 
Boys  and  girls,  so  far  as  any  attempt  is  made  to  edu- 
cate them,  are  taught  separately,  and  really  under 
the  eye  of  the  Church.  Priests  and  nuns  are  the 
agents,  the  former  notoriously  making  a  cloak  of  tlieir 
profession  for  vile  and  selfish  purposes.  If  we  speak 
decidedly  upon  this  subject,  yet  we  do  so  with  less 
emphasis  than  do  the  Cubans.  The  girls  are  taught 
embroidery  and  etiquette,  considered  to  be  the  chief 
and  about  the  onlj'  things  necessary  for  them  to  know. 
These  voung:  g\\\s  are  women  at  the  afje  of  thirteen 
or  fourteen,  and  frequently  mothers  of  families  before 
they  are  twenty.  Of  course  they  fade  early.  In  do- 
mestic life  the  husband  is  literally  lord  and  master, 
the  wife,  ostensibly  at  least,  is  all  obedience.  There 
is  no  woman's  rights  association  on  the  island,  nor 
even  a  Dorcas  society.  While  young  and  unmarried, 
the  ladies  are  strict  adherents  to  all  the  convention- 
alities of  Spanish  etiquette,  which  is  of  the  most  ex- 
acting character,  but  after  maiTiage  the  sex  is  perhaps 
as  French  as  the  Parisians,  and  as  gay  as  the  Viennese, 
under  the  stimulus  of  fast  and  fashionable  society. 
The  reason  of  the  edict  issued  by  the  government 


STREETS  OF  ITAVANA. 


129 


forbidding  parents  to  send  their  children  to  this 
country  for  educational  purposes  was  obvious.  The 
young  Cubans  during  their  residence  here  imbibed 
liberal  ideas  as  to  our  republican  form  of  government, 
which  they  freely  promulgated  and  advocated  on  their 
return  to  their  native  island.  Even  those  who  had 
been  educated  in  France  or  England,  and  they  were 
numerous,  readily  sympathized  with  the  pupils  re- 
turned from  America,  and  became  a  dangerous  ele- 
ment. Long  before  the  first  Lopez  expedition,  these 
sons  of  planters  and  rich  merchants  had  formed  them- 
selves into  a  secret  society,  with  the  avowed  purpose  of 
freeing  Cuba  sooner  or  later  from  the  Spanish  yoke. 

The  low-lying,  many-colored  city  of  Havana,  called 
San  Cristobel,  after  the  great  discoverer,  was  originally 
surrounded  by  a  wall,  though  the  population  has 
long  since  extended  its  dwellings  and  business  struc- 
tures far  into  what  was,  half  a  century  since,  the 
suburbs.  A  portion  of  the  old  wall  is  still  extant, 
crumbling  and  decayed,  but  it  has  mostly  disappeared. 
The  narrow  streets  are  paved  or  macadamized,  and 
cross  each  other  at  right  angles,  like  those  of  Phila- 
delphia, but  in  their  dimensions  reminding  one  of 
continental  Toledo,  whose  Moorish  architecture  is 
also  duplicated  here.  There  are  no  sidewalks,  unless 
a  narrow  line  of  flagstones  can  be  so  called,  and  in 
fact  the  people  have  less  use  for  them  where  nearly 
every  one  rides  in  a  victoria,  the  fare  being  but  six- 
teen cents  per  mile.  A  woman  of  respectability  is 
scarcely  ever  seen  walking  in  the  streets,  unless  she 
is  a  foreigner,  or  of  the  lower  class,  such  as  sellers 
of  fruit,  etc.  Those  living  in  close  proximity  to  the 
churches  are  sometimes  seen  proceeding  to  early  mass, 
accompanied  by  a  negress  carrying  a  portable  seat,  or 
9 


130 


DUE  SOUTH, 


a  bit  of  carpet  on  which  to  kneel  upon  the  marble 
floor  of  the  cathedral.  But  even  this  is  exception<iL 
Cuban  etiquette  says  that  a  lady  nuist  not  be  seen 
on  the  streets  except  in  a  vehicle,  and  only  Americans, 
English,  and  other  foreigners  disregard  the  rule. 

The  architecture  of  the  dwelling-houses  is  exceed- 
ingly heavy,  giving  them  the  appearance  of  great 
age.  They  are  built  of  the  porous  stone  so  abun- 
dant upon  the  island,  which,  though  soft  when  first 
worked  into  suitable  blocks,  becomes  as  hard  as  gran- 
ite by  exposure  to  the  atmosphere.  The  fa9ades  of 
the  town  houses  are  nearly  always  covered  with 
stucco.  Their  combination  of  colors,  yellow,  green, 
and  blue,  harmonizes  with  the  glowing  atmosphere  of 
the  tropics.  This  will  strike  the  stranger  at  first  as 
being  very  odd;  there  is  no  system  observed,  the 
tenant  of  each  dwelling'f  olio  wing  his  individual  fancy 
as  to  the  hue  he  will  adopt,  a  dingy  yellow  prevailing. 
Standing  upon  the  Campo  de  Marte  and  looking  in 
any  direction,  these  changing  colors  give  a  pictur- 
esque effect  to  the  range  of  buildings  which  surround 
the  broad  field.  In  this  vicinity  the  structures  are 
nearly  all  of  two  full  stories,  and  many  with  row's  of 
lofty  pillars  supporting  broad  verandas,  including  one 
or  two  palaces,  one  fine  large  club-house,  some  gov- 
ernment offices,  and  the  Telegiafo  Hotel.  These 
varying  colors  are  not  for  fancy  alone,  they  have  a 
raison  d'etre  ;  namely,  to  absorb  the  sharp  rays  of 
the  constant  sunshine.  But  for  some  toning  down  of 
the  glare,  one's  eyes  would  hardly  be  able  to  sustain 
the  power  of  vision.  The  vividness  with  which  each 
individual  building  and  object  stands  out  in  the  clear 
liquid  light  is  one  of  the  first  peculiarities  which  will 
strike  the  stranger. 


ARCHITECTURE. 


131 


The  dwelling-houses  are  universally  so  constructed 
as  to  form  an  open  square  in  the  centre,  which  con- 
stitutes the  only  yard  or  court  that  is  attached.  The 
house  is  divided  into  a  living-room,  a  store-room, 
chambers,  and  stable,  these  all  upon  one  floor,  while 
the  family  vehicle  blocks  up  in  part  the  only  en- 
trance, which  is  used  in  common  by  horses,  ladies, 
slaves,  and  gentlemen  callers.  If  there  is  a  second 
story,  a  broad  flight  of  steps  leads  to  it,  and  there 
are  the  family  chambers  or  sleeping  apartments, 
opening  upon  a  corridor  which  extends  round  the 
court.  Peculiar  as  this  manner  of  building  at  first 
seems,  it  is  well  adapted  to  the  climate,  and  one  soon 
becomes  satisfied  with  it. 

With  such  surroundings  it  is  easy  to  imagine  one's 
self  at  Granada,  in  far-off  Spain,  and  it  seems  almost 
natural  to  look  about  for  the  Alhambra.  An  air  of 
rude  grandeur  reigns  over  these  houses,  the  architec- 
ture being  Gothic  and  Saracenic.  In  the  more  an- 
cient portions  of  the  town  little  picturesque  balconies 
of  iron  or  wood  jut  out  from  the  second-story  win- 
dows, wliere  the  houses  rise  to  the  dignity  of  two 
stories.  From  these  balconies  hang  little  naked  chil- 
dren, like  small  performers  upon  the  trapeze,  until 
the  passer-by  fears  for  their  lives.  The  travel  in  the 
narrow  streets  is  regulated  by  law,  and  so  divided 
that  only  certain  ones  are  used  for  vehicles  going 
north,  and  others  for  those  traveling  south.  Thus, 
vehicles  bound  into  the  city  from  the  Paseo  go  by 
the  way  of  Obispo  Street,  but  must  return  by  O'Riley 
Street,  so  that  no  two  ever  meet  in  these  narrow 
thoroughfares,  —  a  plan  which  might  be  advanta- 
geously adopted  elsewhere. 

The  rooms  of  the  houses  are  lofty  and  the  floors 


132 


DUE  SOUTH, 


stuccoed  or  tiled  in  marble,  while  the  walls  and  ceil- 
ings are  frequently  ornamented  in  fresco,  the  excel- 
lence of  the  workmanship  varying  in  accordance  with 
the  owner's  means.  The  most  striking  peculiarity  of 
the  town-liouse  in  Cuba  is  the  precaution  taken  to  ren- 
der it  safe  against  sudden  attack.  Every  man's  house 
is  literally  his  castle  here,  each  accessible  window 
being  secured  with  stout  iron  bars,  reaching  from  the 
top  to  the  bottom,  while  bullet-proof  doors  bar  the 
entrance,  —  the  whole  seriously  suggestive  of  jails 
and  lunatic  asylums.  No  carpets  are  used  even  in 
the  parlors,  though  a  long  rug  is  sometimes  placed 
between  the  inevitable  double  row  of  rocking-chairs. 
The  best  floors  are  laid  in  white  marble  and  jasper. 
The  great  heat  of  the  climate  renders  even  wooden 
floors  quite  insupportable.  The  visitor  is  apt  to  find 
his  bed  rather  unsatisfactory,  it  being  formed  by 
stretching  a  coarse  canvas  upon  a  framework,  with 
an  upper  and  under  sheet.  Mattresses  are  not  used 
by  the  natives,  who  reject  them  as  being  too  warm 
to  sleep  upon,  but  the  liberality  evinced  in  the  shape 
of  mosquito  netting  is  as  commendable  as  it  is  neces- 
sary. 

The  public  vehicle  called  a  victoria  is  a  sort  of 
four-wheeled  calash,  and  it  has  entirely  superseded 
the  volante  for  city  use.  There  are  thousands  of 
them  about  the  town,  forming  a  collection  of  wretch- 
edly wornout  carriages,  drawn  by  horses  in  a  like  con- 
dition. The  drivers  occupy  an  elevated  seat,  and  are 
composed  equally  of  whites  and  negroes.  The  charge 
for  a  passage  from  point  to  point  within  the  city 
is  forty  cents  in  Cuban  paper  money,  equal  to  six- 
teen cents  of  our  currency  ;  three  times  that  sum  is 
charged  if  engaged  for  the  hour.    The  streets  are  in 


OFFICIAL  PECULAriON,  133 

a  very  bad  condition  and  sadly  need  repairing.  The 
roads  leading  out  to  the  suburbs  in  every  direction 
are  full  of  deep  holes,  and  are  badly  gullied  by  the 
heavy  rains.  The  streets,  even  about  the  paseos,  are 
&o  impregnated  with  filth,  here  and  there,  as  to  be 
sickening  to  the  senses  of  the  passer-by.  Once  in 
three  or  four  weeks  somebody  is  awakened  to  the 
exigency  of  the  situation,  and  a  gang  of  men  is  put 
to  v/ork  to  cleanse  the  principal  thoroughfares,  but 
this  serves  only  a  temporary  purpose.  We  v^ere  told 
that  the  reason  for  this  neglect  was  that  no  one  v/as 
regularly  paid  for  work;  even  the  police  had  not 
received  any  pay  for  seven  months,  and  many  refused 
to  serve  longer.  The  soldiery  had  not  been  paid 
their  small  stipend  for  nearly  a  year,  but  enlisted 
men  sent  out  from  Spain,  forming  the  army,  are  more 
easily  kept  together  and  more  amenable  to  discipline 
than  any  civil  body  of  officials  could  be.  With 
everybody  and  everything  so  enormously  taxed,"  we 
ventured  to  suggest  to  our  informants,  "there  should 
be  no  lack  of  pecuniary  means  wherewith  to  carry  on 
all  departments  of  the  government.  Pray  what  be- 
comes of  all  this  money  ?  "  The  reply  was,  Who 
can  say?  "  with  a  significant  shrug  of  the  shoulders. 
With  all  the  exactions  of  the  officials,  and  with  the 
collection  of  nearly  thirty  millions  of  dollars  annu- 
ally, but  a  moiety  finds  its  way  into  the  national 
treasury.  Peculation  is  reduced  to  a  science,  and  is 
practiced  from  the  highest  to  the  lowest  official  sent 
out  by  the  home  government.  "  Spain  has  squeezed 
the  orange  nearly  dry/'  said  a  distinguished  Cuban 
to  us  in  Matanzas,  "  and  a  collapse  is  inevitable. 
We  are  anxiously  waiting  to  see  it  come ;  anj^  change 
would  be  for  the  better.    We  were  long  threatened 


134 


DUE  SOUTH. 


with  a  war  of  races,  if  we  did  not  sustain  Spanish 
rule  in  the  island.  That  is,  if  we  were  not  loyal  to 
the  Madrid  authorities,  the  slaves  should  be  freed  to 
prey  upon  us.  Blood  would  flow  like  water.  The 
incendiary  torch  would  be  placed  in  the  hands  of  the 
negroes,  and  they  should  be  incited  to  burn,  steal, 
and  ravish !  Cuba  should  be  Spanish  or  African. 
There  was  a  time  when  this  threat  had  great  force, 
and  its  execution  w^as  indeed  to  be  dreaded  ;  but  that 
time  is  past,  and  no  such  fear  now  exists.  The  slaves 
are  being  gradually  freed,  and  are  amalgamating 
with  the  rest  of  the  populace.  The  slow  liberation 
of  the  blacks  has  accustomed  them  to  freedom,  and 
any  organized  outrage  from  that  source  has  ceased 
to  be  feared." 

Why  all  the  bells  in  Havana  should  be  rung  furi- 
ously and  continuously  every  morning  about  day- 
light, one  cannot  exactly  understand.  There  does 
not  seem  to  be  any  concert  of  action  in  this  awful  con- 
spiracy against  sleep  ;  but  the  tumult  thus  brought 
about  would  certainly  seem  to  be  sufficient  to  ''wake 
the  isle  from  its  propriety."  From  every  square  with 
its  church,  and  every  church  with  its  towei-s,  this 
brazen-tongued  clamor  is  relentlessly  poured  forth. 
In  most  Christian*  lands  one  good  bell  is  all-sufficient 
for  a  church  steeple,  but  here  they  have  them  in  the 
plural,  and  all  striving  to  excel  each  other  at  the 
same  moment.  Of  course  no  one  is  able  to  sleep 
amid  such  an  outburst  of  noise,  or  within  the  radius 
of  a  league.  Bells  and  mosquitoes  are  two  of  the 
prevailing  nuisances  of  this  thrice-sunny  city.  Nor 
must  we  forget  to  add  to  these  aggravations  the 
ceaseless,  triumphant  crowing  of  the  game-cocks,  the 
noisiest  and  most  boastful  of  birds,  large  numbers  of 


HOME-KEEPING  LADIES. 


135 


which  are  kept  by  the  citizens  purely  for  gambling 
purposes  in  the  cock-pit.  Besides  these  profes- 
sional"  birds,  every  nook  and  corner  is  filled  witli 
fowls  kept  for  brooding  purposes,  each  bird  family 
with  its  crower. 

We  have  said  that  the  Cuban  ladies  rarely  stir 
abroad  except  in  a  vehicle,  and  whatever  their  domes- 
tic habits  may  be,  they  are  certainly  good  housekeep- 
ers in  this  respect.  While  our  ladies  are  busy  sweep- 
ing the  city  sidewalks  with  their  trailing  dresses, 
these  wisely  leave  that  business  to  the  gangs  of 
criminals  detailed  from  prison  to  fill  that  office,  with 
their  limbs  chained  and  a  heavy  ball  attached  to  pre- 
serve their  equilibrium,  —  though  we  should  qualify 
this  remark  by  saying  that  these  condemned  men, 
once  so  common  upon  the  streets  and  highways,  were 
not  seen  during  our  late  visit  to  Havana.  It  is,  per- 
haps, owing  to  the  home-keeping  habits  of  the  ladies 
that  the  feet  of  the  Cuban  senoritas  are  such  mar- 
vels of  smallness  and  delicacy,  seemingly  made  rather 
for  ornament  than  for  use.  You  catch  a  glimpse  of 
them  as  they  step  into  their  victorias,  and  perceive 
that  they  are  daintily  shod  in  French  slippers,  the 
soles  of  which  are  scarcely  more  substantial  than 
brown  paper.  Their  feet  are  made  for  ornament 
and  for  dancing.  Though  they  possess  a  roundness 
of  form  that  leaves  notliing  to  be  desired  in  symme- 
try of  figure,  still  they  are  light  as  a  sylph,  —  so 
buoyant,  clad  in  muslin  and  lace,  that  it  would  seem 
as  if  a  breeze  might  waft  them  away  like  a  summer 
cloud.  Passionately  fond  of  dancing,  they  tax  the 
endurance  of  the  gentlemen  in  their  worship  of  Terp- 
sichore, stimulated  by  those  Cuban  airs  which  are  at 
once  so  sweet  and  so  brilliant. 


136 


DUE  SOUTH. 


There  is  a  striking  and  endearing  cliarm  about  the 
Cuban  ladies,  tlieir  every  motion  being  replete  with 
a  native  grace.  Every  limb  is  elastic  and  supple. 
Tlieir  voices  are  sweet  and  low,  while  the  subdued 
tone  of  their  complexions  is  relieved  by  the  arch 
vivacity  of  night-black  eyes,  that  alternately  swim  in 
melting  lustre,  and  sparkle  in  expressive  glances.  If 
their  comeliness  matures,  like  the  fruits  of  their  na- 
tive clime,  early  and  rapidly,  it  is  sad  to  know  that* 
it  also  fades  prematur^lj^  One  looks  in  vain  for  that 
serene  loveliness  combined  with  age  which  so  fre- 
quently challenges  our  admiration  at  the  North. 
Their  costume  is  never  ostentatious,  though  often 
costly,  and  sometimes  a  little  too  mixed  or  varie- 
gated when  seen  in  public.  At  home,  however, 
nothing  of  this  sort  is  observed.  There  the  di'ess 
is  usually  composed  of  the  most  delicate  muslin,  the 
finest  linen,  and  richest  silks.  We  must  admit  that 
one  rarely  sees  elsewhere  such  contrasts  in  colors 
npon  the  person  of  the  fair  sex  as  are  at  times 
encountered  upon  the  Paseo.  It  would  drive  a 
Frencli  modiste  wihl  to  see  the  proprieties  so  out- 
raged. It  requires  all  the  proverbial  beauty  of  these 
senoras  and  senoritus  to  carry  off  respectably  such 
combinations  as  scarlet  and  yellow,  blue  and  purple, 
orange  and  green  ;  but  they  do  it  by  sheer  force  of 
their  beautiful  eyes  and  finely  rounded  figures.  It 
must  be  acknowledged  that  the  element  of  native 
refinement  is  too  often  wanting,  and  that  the  whole 
exhibition  of  the  sex  is  just  a  little  prononcee.  They 
have  no  intellectual  resort,  but  lead  a  life  of  decided 
ease  and  pleasure  much  too  closely  bordering  upon 
the  sensuous,  their  forced  idleness  being  in  itself  an 
incentive  to  immorality  and  intrigue.    The  indiffer 


FEMALE  PATRIOTISM, 


137 


ent  work  tliey  perform  is  liglit  and  simple;  a  little 
sewing  and  embroidery,  followed  by  the  siesta,  divides 
the  hours  of  the  day.  Those  who  can  afford  to  keep 
their  yictarias  wait  until  nearly  sunset  for  a  drive, 
and  then  go  to  respond  by  sweet  smiles  to  the  saluta- 
tions of  the  caballeros  on  the  paseos  ;  afterwards  to 
the  Parque  de  Isabella  II.,  to  listen  to  the  military 
band,  and  then,  perhaps,  to  join  in  the  mazy  dance. 
That  these  ladies  are  capable  of  deep  feeling  and 
practical  sympathy  on  such  occasions  as  would  nat- 
urally draw  these  qualities  forth,  we  know  by  expe- 
rience. When  the  patriot  forces  Avere  poorly  armed, 
with  but  scant  material,  and  ammunition  was  short, 
these  fair  patriots  gave  freely  of  their  most  valuable 
jewels  as  a  contribution  to  the  cause  of  libertj' . 

A  sad  instance  illustrative  of  this  fact  was  told  us 
by  a  resident  of  Havana.  The  young  ladies  and 
matrons  of  a  certain  circle  in  the  city,  at  the  com- 
mencement of  the  year  1872,  had  put  their  diamonds 
and  precious  stones  together  to  realize  money  for 
forwarding  supplies  to  the  insurgents  under  Cespe- 
des,  who  was  then  operating  in  the  vicinity  of  Santi- 
ago. The  jewels  were  secretly  intrusted  to  a  brother 
of  one  of  the  ladies,  a  young  man  who  had  just 
reached  the  age  of  twenty-two.  His  part  of  the 
business  was  the  most  difficult  to  perform,  but  he 
finally  succeeded  in  realizing  over  four  thousand  dol- 
lars in  gold  for  the  gems  intrusted  to  him.  Fortu- 
nately the  money  was  at  once  forwarded  to  the 
patriot  leader  through  a  safe  and  reliable  channel. 
Hardly  had  the  business  been  accomplished  to  the 
satisfaction  of  all  concerned  when  the  young  Cuban 
was  secretly  denounced  to  the  Governor-General  as  a 
suspected  person.    The  settings  and  jewels  had  all 


138 


DUE  SOUTH. 


been  disposed  of  so  as  to  be  beyond  recognition,  and 
it  is  not  known  to  this  day  bow  the  brother's  com- 
plicity with  his  sisters  and  their  friends  was  divulged, 
but  presumedly  it  was  through  tlie  Jew  pawnbrokers. 
The  brother  was  arrested  and  thrown  into  Moro 
Castle,  where  he  was  subjected  to  the  closest  exami- 
nation to  find  out  his  accomplices.  Loyal  and  alfec- 
tionate,  he  could  not  be  made  to  speak.  He  was 
finally  offered  his  freedom  and  permission  to  leave  the 
island  if  he  would  divulge  all.  The  government  rea- 
soned that  if  they  could  make  a  witness  of  him  they 
would  succeed  in  serving  their  own  interest  best,  as 
by  sacrificing  one  prisoner  they  might  gain  knowl- 
edge of  many  disaffected  people  whom  they  did  not 
even  suspect  of  disloyalty.  One  of  the  sisters  of  the 
prisoner  determined  to  assume  the  guilt,  and  declare 
that  lier  brother  was  the  unknowing  agent  of  her 
purpose ;  but  when  at  last  satisfied  that  this  would 
not  free  him,  she  reluctantly  gave  up  the  design. 
The  young  Cuban  maintained  his  silence.  No  pub- 
licity was  given  to  the  matter.  He  was  brought 
before  a  military  tribunal  —  so  much  is  known.  The 
sentence  never  publicly  transpired.  Like  most  polit- 
ical prisoners  \^lio  pass  within  the  walls  of  Moro 
Castle,  his  fate  remains  a  secret. 

There  are  two  sides  to  every  picture  ;  even  light 
casts  its  shadow,  and  we  feel  constrained  to  speak 
plainly.  Social  life  in  the  island  is  certainly  at  a  very 
low  ebb,  and  unblushing  licentiousness  prevails.  That 
there  are  many  and  noble  exceptions  only  renders 
the  opposite  fact  the  more  prominent.  This  immo- 
rality is  more  particularly  among  the  home  Spaniards, 
whose  purpose  it  is  to  remain  here  long  enough  to 
gain  a  certain  amount  of  money,  and  then  to  return 


DOMESTIC  TIES. 


139 


to  the  mother  country  to  enjoy  it.  They  look  upon 
all  associations  contracted  here  as  of  a  temporary 
character,  and  the  matter  of  morality  does  not  affect 
them  in  the  least.  Domestic  comforts  are  few,  and, 
as  we  have  intimated,  literature  is  hardly  recognized. 
The  almost  entire  absence  of  books  or  reading  matter 
of  any  sort  is  remarkable.  A  few  daily  and  weekly 
newspapers,  under  rigid  censorship,  supply  all  the 
taste  for  letters.  Married  women  seem  to  sink  far 
below  their  husbands  in  influence.  The  domestic 
affections  are  not  cultivated  ;  in  short,  home  to  the 
average  Cuban  is  only  a  place  to  sleep,  —  not  of 
peaceful  enjoyment.  His  meals  are  rarely  taken  with 
his  family,  but  all  spare  hours  are  absorbed  at  the 
club.  Domestic  infidelity  is  prevalent,  and  female 
virtue  but  little  esteemed.  Priest-craft  and  king-crafb 
have  been  the  curse  of  both  Spain  and  Cuba.  Here, 
as  in  Italy,  the  outrageous  and  thinly-disguised  im- 
morality of  the  priesthood  poisons  many  an  other- 
wise unpolluted  fount,  and  thus  all  classes  are  liable 
to  infection.  Popery  and  slavery  are  both  largely  to 
be  charged  with  the  low  condition  of  morals,  though 
the  influence  of  the  former  has  of  late  years  been 
much  curtailed,  both  in  Spain  and  in  Cuba.  The 
young  women  are  the  slaves  of  local  customs,  as 
already  intimated,  and  cannot  go  abroad  even  to 
church  without  a  duenna,  —  a  fact  which  in  itself 
proves  the  debased  standard  of  morals.  The  men  ap- 
j)ear  to  have  no  religion  at  all,  but  the  women  very 
generally  attend  early  mass  and  go  periodically  to 
confessional.  No  one  seems  to  think  it  strange  for 
a  white  man  to  have  a  colony  of  mulatto  children, 
even  though  he  be  also  the  father  of  a  white  family  ! 
Many  have  only  the  mulatto  family,  and  seem  con- 


140 


DUE  SOUTH. 


tent.  These  are  generally  the  home  Spaniards,  al- 
ready spoken  of,  and  when  their  fortunes  are  secured 
they  recklessly  sever  all  local  ties  and  responsibilities 
and  return  to  Spain.  This  is  no  new  thing,  as  there 
are  many  families  in  Cuba  of  fair  position  socially, 
and  often  of  considerable  wealth,  whose  members  are 
by  the  right  of  classification  quadroons.  Miscegena- 
tion has  greatly  complicated  social  matters,  and  in 
half  a  century,  more  or  less,  it  may  produce  a  dis- 
tinctive class,  who  will  be  better  able  to  assert  and 
sustain  their  rights  than  those  who  have  preceded 
them. 

The  class  of  home  Spaniards  who  have  emigrated 
to  Cuba  has  always  been  of  a  questionable  character. 
The  description  of  them  b-y  Cervantes  in  his  time 
will  apply  in  our  own  day  with  equal  force.  He 
says :  The  island  is  the  refuge  of  the  profligates  of 
Spain,  a  sanctuary  for  homicides,  a  skulking-place  for 
gamblers  and  sharpers,  and  a  receptacle  for  women  of 
free  manners,  —  a  place  of  delusion  to  many,  of  amel- 
ioration to  few." 

One  peculiarity  which  is  sure  to  strike  the  stran- 
ger unpleasantly,  and  to  which  allusion  has  inciden- 
tally been  made,  whetlier  in  public  or  private  houses, 
in  the  stores  or  in  the  streets,  is  that  the  colored  chil- 
dren of  both  sexes,  under  eight  and  nine  years  of  age, 
are  permitted  to  go  about  in  a  state  of  nudity.  In 
tlie  countrj',  among  the  Montero  class,  this  custom 
also  extends  to  the  white  children.  The  colored  men 
who  labor  in  the  streets  and  on  the  wharves  wear 
only  a  short  pair  of  linen  pantaloons,  displaying  a 
muscular  development  which  any  white  man  might 
envy.  The  remarkable  contrast  in  the  powerful 
frames  of  these  dusky  Africans  and  the  puny  Asiatic 


A  FESTIVE  POPULATION, 


141 


coolies  is  extraordinary.  On  tlie  plantations  and 
small  farms  the  slaves  wear  but  one  garment,  just 
sufficient  for  decency.  The  great  heat  when  exposed 
to  the  sun  is  the  reason,  probably,  rather  than  any 
economical  idea. 

The  populace  of  Havana  is  eminently  a  festive  one. 
Men  luxuriate  in  the  cafe,  or  spend  their  eveninors  in 
worse  places.  A  brief  period  of  the  morning  only  is 
given  to  business,  the  rest  of  the  day  and  night  to 
meiting  lassitude,  smoking,  and  luxurious  ease.  Evi- 
dences of  satiety,  languor,  and  dullness,  the  weakened 
capacity  for  enjoyment,  are  sadly  conspicuous,  the  in- 
evitable sequence  of  indolence  and  vice.  The  arts 
and  sciences  seldom  disturb  the  thoughts  of  such  peo- 
ple. Here,  as  in  many  European  cities,  Lazarus  and 
Dives  elbow  each  other,  and  an  Oriental  confusion  of 
quarters  prevails.  The  pretentious  town-house  is 
side  by  side  with  the. humble  quarters  of  the  artisan, 
or  even  the  negro  hut,  about  which  swarm  the  naked 
juveniles  of  color,  a  half-clad,  slatternly  mother  ap- 
pearing now  and  then.  The  father  of  this  brood,  if 
there  be  an  acknowledged  one,  is  probably  at  work 
upon  some  plantation  not  far  away,  Avhile  madame 
takes  in  linen  to  wash,  but  being  possibly  herself  a 
slave,  pays  over  one  half  of  her  earnings  to  some  city 
master.  High  and  low  life  are  ever  present  in  strong 
contrast,  and  in  the  best  of  humor  with  each  other, 
affording  elements  of  the  picturesque,  if  not  of  the 
beautiful.  Neatness  must  be  ignored  where  such  hu- 
man conglomeration  exists,  and  as  we  all  know,  at 
certain  seasons  of  the  year,  like  dear,  delightful,  dirty 
Naples,  Havana  is  the  hot-bed  of  pestilence.  The 
dryness  of  the  atmosphere  transforms  most  of  the 
street  off al  into  fine  powder,  which  salutes  nose,  eyes, 


142 


DUE  SOUTH. 


ears,  and  mouth  under  the  influence  of  the  slight- 
est breeze.  Tliough  there  are  ample  batliing  facili- 
ties in  and  about  the  city,  the  people  of  either  sex 
seem  to  have  a  prejudice  against  their  free  use.  In 
most  hot  climates  the  natives  duly  appreciate  the  ad- 
vantage of  an  abundance  of  water,  and  luxuriate  in 
its  use,  but  it  is  not  so  in  Cuba.  We  were  told  of 
ladies  who  content  themselves  with  only  wiping  neck, 
face,  and  hands  daily  upon  a  towel  saturated  with  isl- 
and rum,  and,  from  what  was  obvious,  it  is  easy  to 
believe  this  to  be  true. 

Sea-bathing  is  a  luxury  which  the  Northern  visitor 
will  be  glad  to  improve,  if  the  natives  are  not,  and 
for  their  information  let  us  state  that  it  may  be  safely- 
enjoyed  here.  Establishments  will  be  found  where 
baths  have  been  cut  in  the  rock  on  the  shore,  west  of 
the  Punta  fort,  along  the  Calle  Ancha  del  Norte. 
Here  water  is  introduced  fresh  from  the  Gulf  Stream, 
sparkling  and  invigorating,  and  characterized  by 
much  more  salt  and  iodine  than  is  found  in  more 
northern  latitudes.  It  is  the  purest  sea-bathing  to 
be  found  in  any  city  that  we  know  of,  refreshing  and 
healthful,  producing  a  sensation  upon  the  surface  of 
the  body  similar  to  that  of  sparkling  soda-Avater  on 
the  palate.  The  island  abounds  in  mineral  springs, 
both  hot  and  cold,  all  more  or  less  similar  in  charac- 
ter, and  belonging  to  the  class  of  sulphur  springs. 
Many  of  these  have  considerable  local  reputation  for 
their  curative  properties. 

In  passing  through  O'Riley,  Obispo,  Obrapia,  or 
any  business  streets  at  about  eleven  o'clock  in  the 
forenoon  and  glancing  into  the  stores,  workshops,  busi- 
ness offices,  and  the  like,  one  is  sure  to  see  the  master 
in  his  shirt-sleeves,  surrounded  by  his  family,  clerks, 


A  WELL-FURNISHED  SITTING-ROOM.  143 


and  all  white  employees,  sitting  in  full  sight  at  break- 
fast, generally  in  the  business  room  itself.  The  mid- 
day siesta,  an  hour  later,  if  not  a  necessity  in  this 
climate,  is  a  universal  custom.  The  shopkeeper,  even 
as  he  sits  on  duty,  drops  his  head  upon  his  arm  and 
sleeps  for  an  hour,  more  or  less.  The  negro  and  his 
master  both  succumb  to  the  same  influence,  catching 
their  forty  winks,  while  the  ladies,  if  not  reclining, 
''lose  themselves"  with  heads  resting  against  the 
backs  of  the  universal  rocking-chairs.  One  interior 
seen  by  the  passer-by  is  as  like  another  as  two  peas. 
A  Cuban's  idea  of  a  well-furnished  sitting-room  is 
fully  met  by  a  dozen  cane-bottom  rocking-chairs,  and 
a  few  poor  chromos  on  the  walls.  These  rocking- 
chairs  are  ranged  in  two  even  lines,  reaching  from  the 
window  to  the  rear  of  the  room,  with  a  narrow  woollen 
mat  between  them  on  the  marble  floor,  each  chair 
being  conspicuously  flanked  by  a  cuspidor.  This 
parlor  arrangement  is  so  nearly  universal  as  to  be 
absolutely  ludicrous. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 


Sabbath  Scenes  in  Havana.  — Thimble-Kiggers  and  Mountebanks.  — 
City  Squares  and  their  Ornamentation.  —  The  Cathedral.  —  Tomb 
of  Columbus.  —  Plaza  de  Armas.  —  Out- Door  Concerts.  —  Habitues 
of  Paseo  de  Isabella.  —  Superbly  Appointed  Cafes.  —  Gambling. 
—  Lottery  Tickets. — Fast  Life.  —  Masquerade  Balis. —  Carnival 
Days.  —  The  Famous  Tacon  Theatre.  —  The  Havana  Casino. — 
Public  Statues.  —  Beauties  of  the  Governor's  Garden.  —  The 
Alameda.  —  The  Old  Bell-Kinger.  —  Military  Mass. 

On  no  other  occasion  is  the  difference  between  the 
manners  of  a  Protestant  and  Catholic  community  so 
strongly  marked  as  on  the  Sabbath.  In  the  former, 
a  sober  seriousness  stamps  the  deportment  of  tlie 
people,  even  when  they  are  not  engaged  in  devotional 
exercises  ;  in  the  latter,  worldly  pleasures  and  religious 
forms  are  pursued,  as  it  were,  at  the  same  time,  or 
follow  each  other  in  incongruous  succession.  We 
would  not  have  the  day  made  tedious,  and  it  can  only 
be  so  to  triflers  ;  to  the  true  Christian  it  will  ever  be 
characterized  by  thoughtfuhiess  and  repose.  The 
Parisian  flies  from  the  church  to  the  railway  station 
to  join  some  picnic  excursion,  or  to  assist  at  the  race- 
course, or  he  passes  with  a  careless  levity  from  St. 
Genevieve  to  the  dance  booths  of  the  Champs  Elysees. 
In  New  Orleans,  the  Creole  who  has  just  bent  his 
knee  before  the  altar  repairs  to  the  theatre  to  p:iss 
the  evening  ;  and  the  Cuban  goes  from  the  absolution 
of  the  priest  to  the  hurly-burly  of  the  bull-ring  or 
the  cock-pit. 

The  influence  of  fifteen  minutes  in  the  church,  if 


SABBATH  SCENES. 


145 


salutary,  would  seem  to  be  quickly  dissipated  by  the 
attraction  of  the  gaming-table  and  the  masked  ball. 
Even  the  Sunday  ceremonial  of  the  Church  is  a  pa- 
geant :  the  splendid  robes  of  the  officiating  priest, 
changed  in  the  course  of  the  service  like  the  costume 
of  actors  in  a  drama  ;  the  music,  to  Protestant  ears 
operatic  and  exciting ;  the  clouds  of  incense  scat- 
tering their  intoxicating  perfumes  ;  the  chanting  in 
a  strange  tongue,  unknown  to  the  majority  of  the 
worshipers,  —  all  tend  to  give  the  Roman  Catholic 
services  a  carnival  character.  Far  be  it  from  us,  how- 
ever, to  charge  these  congregations  with  an  undue 
levity,  or  a  lack  of  sincerity.  Many  a  lovely  Creole 
kneels  upon  the  marble  floor  entirely  estranged  from 
the  brilliant  groups  around  her,  and  apparently  un- 
conscious for  the  time  of  the  admiration  she  excites. 
There  are  many,  no  doubt,  who  look  beyond  the  glit- 
tering symbols  to  the  great  truths  of  the  Being  whom 
they  are  intended  to  typify.  The  impression  made 
by  the  Sabbath  ceremonials  of  the  Church  strikes  us 
as  evanescent,  more  pleasing  to  the  fancy  than  in- 
forming to  the  understanding.  Still,  if  the  Sabbath 
in  Catholic  countries  is  not  wholly  devoted  to  religious 
observances,  neither  are  the  week  days  wholly  ab- 
sorbed by  business  and  by  careless  pleasures.  The 
churches  are  always  open,  silently  but  eloquently  in- 
viting to  devotion,  and  it  is  much  to  be  able  to  step 
aside  at  any  moment  from  the  temptations,  business, 
and  cares  of  life  into  an  atmosphere  of  seclusion  and 
religion.  The  solemn  quiet  of  an  old  cathedral  on  a 
week  day  is  impressive  from  its  very  contrast  to  the 
tumult  outside.  Within  its  venerable  walls  the  light 
seems  chastened,  as  it  falls  through  stained  panes  and 
paints  the  images  of  Christian  saints  and  martyrs  on 

10 


146 


DUE  SOUTH. 


the  pavement  of  the  aisles.  A  half  un\Yilling  rever- 
ence is  apt  to  stimulate  us  on  such  an  occasion, 
however  skeptical  we  may  be. 

The  Sabbath  in  Havana  breaks  upon  the  citizens 
amid  the  ringing  of  bells,  the  firing  of  cannon  from  the 
forts,  the  noise  of  trumpets,  and  the  roll  of  the  drum. 
It  is  no  day  of  physical  rest  here,  and  the  mechanical 
trades  are  uninterrupted.  It  is  the  chosen  period  for 
the  military  reviews,  the  masked  ball,  and  the  bull- 
fight. The  stores  are  open  as  usual,  the  same  cries 
are  heard  on  the  streets,  and  the  lottery  tickets  are 
vended  on  every  corner.  The  individuals  who  devote 
themselves  to  this  business  are  in  numbers  like  an 
army  with  banners.  They  rend  the  air  with  their 
cries,  promising  good  luck  to  all  purchasers,  while 
they  flourish  their  scissors  with  one  hand,  and  thrust 
the  sheet  of  printed  numbers  in  your  face  with  the 
other,  ready  to  cut  any  desired  ticket  or  portion  of  a 
ticket.  The  day  proves  equally  propitious  for  the  om- 
nipresent organ-grinder  and  his  ludicrously-dressed 
little  monkey,  a  la  Napoleon  ;  the  Chinese  peddler  ; 
the  orange  and  banana  dealer;  and  the  universal 
cigarette  purveyer.  Still,  the  roiigli  Montero  from  the 
country,  with  his  long  line  of  loaded  mules  or  ponies, 
respectfully  raises  his  broad  Panama  with  one  hand 
while  he  makes  the  sign  of  the  cross  with  the  other  as 
he  passes  the  church  door.  The  churches  of  Havana 
look  very  old  and  shabby  compared  with  those  of  pe- 
ninsular Spain,  where  the  splendor  of  church  orna- 
mentation reaches  its  acme. 

In  and  about  the  commercial  part  of  the  town,  the 
out-door  gambler  forms  a  conspicuous  feature  of  the 
Sabbath,  seated  upon  a  cloth  spread  upon  the  ground, 
and  armed  w^ith  cards,  dice,  cups,  and  other  instru- 


CITY  SQUARES. 


147 


ments.  With  voluble  tongue  and  expressive  panto- 
mime urging  the  passer-by  to  try  his  luck,  he  meets 
with  varying  success.  Many  who  are  drawn  into  the 
net  are  adroitly  permitted  to  win  a  little,  and  after- 
wards to  lose  much.  Sailors  on  shore  for  a  day's 
liberty  are  profitable  game  for  these  thimble-riggers, 
as  they  are  called  with  us.  Both  Spaniards  and 
Creoles  patronize  them,  and  occasionally  a  negro  tries 
his  luck  with  a  trifle.  In  open  squares,  or  at  the 
intersection  of  several  streets,  one  sometimes  sees  a 
carpet  spread  upon  the  ground,  upon  which  an  athlete 
accompanied  by  a  couple  of  expert  boys,  dressed  in 
high-colored  tights  ornamented  with  spangles,  diverts 
the  throng  by  exhibiting  gymnastics.  At  the  close 
of  the  performance,  a  young  girl  in  a  fancy  dress  and 
with  long,  flowing  hair  passes  among  the  spectators 
and  gathers  a  few  shillings.  Not  far  away  is  observed 
Punch  and  Judy  in  the  height  of  a  successful  quarrel 
to  the  music  of  a  harp  and  a  violin.  The  automatic 
contestants  pound  and  pommel  each  other  after  the 
conventional  fashion. 

The  city  abounds  in  well-arranged  squares,  often 
ornamented  by  the  royal  palm,  always  a  figure  of 
majesty  and  beauty,  with  here  and  there  a  few  orange, 
lime,  and  banana  trees,  mingled  with  the  Indian 
laurel,  which  forms  a  grateful  shade  by  its  dense 
foliage.  The  royal  palm  is  strongly  individualized, 
differing  from  other  trees  of  the  same  family.  It  is 
usually  from  sixty  to  eighty  feet  in  height  at  what 
may  be  called  its  maturity,  and  not  unfrequently 
reaches  a  hundred,  the  tall  trunk  slightly  swelling 
ne:ir  the  middle  and  tapering  at  either  extremity. 
The  upper  portion  is  of  a  fresh  and  shining  green, 
contrasting  with  the  lower  section,  which  is  of  a  light 


148 


DUE  SOUTH. 


slate  color.  It  is  crowned  by  a  tuft  of  brandies  and 
leaves  at  its  apex,  like  a  bunch  of  ostrich  feathers 
drooping  in  all  directions.  It  seems  as  though  the 
palm  could  not  be  out  of  place  in  any  spot.  It  im- 
parts great  beauty  to  the  scenery  in  and  about  Havana. 
When  it  is  found  dotting  a  broad  stretch  of  country 
here  and  there  in  isolated  groups,  or  even  singly,  it  is 
always  the  first  object  to  catch  and  delight  the  eye. 
Jt  is  also  a  marked  and  beautiful  feature  where  it 
forms  a  long  avenue,  lining  the  road  on  either  side 
leading  to  a  sugar  or  coffee  plantation,  but  it  requires 
half  a  century  to  perfect  sach  an  avenue. 

The  Plaza  de  Armas,  fronting  the  Governor's 
palace,  is  a  finely  kept  square,  and  until  the  Parque 
de  Isabella  was  finished,  it  was  the  great  centre  of 
fashion,  and  the  place  of  evening  resort.  At  one 
corner  of  this  Plaza  is  an  insignificant  chapel,  built 
upon  the  spot  where  Columbus  is  said  to  liave  assisted 
at  the  first  mass  celebrated  on  the  island  ;  an  anach- 
ronism easily  exposed  were  it  wortli  the  while.  The 
great  discoverer  never  landed  at  Havana  during  his 
lifetime,  though  his  body  was  brought  hither  for 
burial,  centuries  after  his  death.  There  is  one  fact 
reLiting  to  this  site  in  the  Plaza  de  Armas  fully 
authenticated,  and  which  is  not  without  interest. 
An  enormous  old  ceiba  tree  oi'iglnalh^  stood  here, 
beneath  whose  branches  mass  was  sometimes  per- 
formed. This  remaikable  tree  having  expired  of  old 
age  was  removed  by  order  of  the  Governor-General, 
and  the  chapel  was  erected  on  the  spot  where  its 
widespread  branches  had  cast  their  shadow  for  cen- 
turies. We  did  not  see  the  interior  of  the  chapel,  as 
it  is  opened  but  once  a  year  to  the  public,  —  on  the 
16tli  of  November,  which  is  the  feast  day  of  San  Oris  ■ 


OUT-DOOR  CONCERTS. 


149 


tobal,  when  mass  is  celebrated  in  honor  of  the  great 
discoverer.  It  is  said  to  contain  a  marble  bust  of  Co- 
lumbus, and  two  or  three  large  historical  paintings. 

This  square  is  divided  into  neatly  kept  paths,  and 
planted  with  fragrant  flowers,  conspicuous  among 
which  were  observed  the  white  and  red  camellias, 
while  a  grateful  air  of  coolness  was  diffused  by  the 
playing  ot*  a  fountain  into  a  broad  basin,  ornamented 
by  a  marble  statue  of  Ferdinand  VII.  The  Creoles 
are  passionately  fond  of  music,  and  this  park  used  to 
be  the  headquarters  of  all  out-door  concerts.  Tlieir 
favorite  airs  are  waltzes  and  native  dances,  with  not 
a  little  of  the  Offenbach  spirit  in  them.  The  guitar 
is  the  favorite  domestic  musical  instrument  here,  as  in 
peninsular  Spain,  and  both  sexes  are  as  a  rule  clever 
performers  upon  it.  Evening  music  in  the  open  air 
is  always  attractive,  but  nowhere  is  its  influence  more 
keenly  felt  than  under  the  mellow  effulgence  of  tropi- 
cal nights.  Nowhere  can  we  conceive  of  a  musical 
performance  listened  to  with  more  relish  and  appre- 
ciation than  in  the  Plaza  de  Armas  or  the  Parque  de 
Isabella  in  Havana.  The  latter  place  on  the  occasion 
of  the  concerts  is  the  resort  of  all  classes.  Here 
friends  meet,  flirtations  are  carried  on,  toilets  are  dis- 
played, and  lovers  woo.  Even  the  humble  classes  are 
seen  in  large  numbers  quietly  strolling  on  the  outer 
portions  of  the  Plaza  listening  to  the  fine  perform- 
ances of  the  band,  and  quietly  enjoying  the  music, 
"tamed  and  led  by  this  enchantress  still."  The 
balmy  nature  of  the  climate  permits  the  ladies  to  dis- 
pense witli  shawls  or  wraps  of  any  sort ;  bonnets 
they  very  seldom  wear,  so  that  they  sit  in  their  vehi- 
cles, or  aligliting  a|)propriate  the  chairs  arranged  for 
the  purpose  lining  the  broad  central  path,  and  thus 


150 


DUE  SOUTIL 


appear  in  full  evening  dress,  bare  arms,  and  necks 
supplemented  by  most  elaborate  coiffures.  Even  the 
black  lace  mantilla,  so  commonly  thrown  over  the 
head  and  shoulders  in  the  cities  of  Spain,  is  discarded 
of  an  evening  on  the  Plaza  de  Isabella. 

It  was  very  amusing  to  sit  here  near  the  marble 
statue  of  the  ex-queen  (which  is,  by  the  way,  a  won- 
derful likeness  of  Queen  Victoria),  where  the  band, 
composed  of  sixty  instrumental  performers,  discoursed 
admirable  music,  and  to  observe  young  Cuba  abroad, 
represented  by  boys  and  girls  of  ten  and  twelve  years 
dressed  like  young  ladies  and  gentlemen,  sauntering 
arm  in  arm  through  the  broad  patlis.  Tliese  children 
attend  balls  given  by  grown-up  people,  and  are 
painted  and  bedizened  and  decked  out  like  their 
elders,  —  a  singular  fashion  in  Cuban  cities.  It  is 
true  they  not  infrequently  fall  asleep  on  such  occa- 
sions in  rocking-chairs  and  in  odd  corners,  overcome 
by  fatigue,  as  the  hours  of  festivity  creep  on  towards 
the  morning.  Childhood  is  ignored.  Youth  of  a 
dozen  years  is  introduced  to  the  habits  of  people 
thrice  that  age.  We  were  sadly  told,  by  one  who  is 
himself  a  parent,  that  most  children  in  the  island 
but  twelve  years  of  age  know  the  delicate  relations  of 
the  sexes  as  well  as  they  would  ever  know  them. 
What  else  could  be  expected  in  an  atmosphere  so 
wretchedly  immoral  ?  Small  boys  dressed  in  stove- 
pipe hats  and  swa.llow-tail  coats,  and  little  misses  in 
long  dresses  with  low  necks  look  like  mountebanks. 

Opposite  the  Plaza  de  Isabella,  on  the  Tacon  Thea- 
tre side  of  the  square,  are  situated  the  most  fashion- 
able cafes  and  restaurants  of  the  capital,  where  '"  life  " 
commences  at  nine  o'clock  in  the  evening  and  rages 
fast  and  furious  until  the  small  hours  of  the  morning. 


GAMBLING. 


151 


In  these  resorts,  which  are  one  blaze  of  light,  every 
gas-burner  reflected  by  dozens  of  mirrors,  the  marble 
tables  are  all  occupied  by  vivacious  patrons.  Some 
are  playhig  dominoes,  some  few  are  engaged  at  games 
of  chess,  others  are  busy  over  checkers  or  cards,  and 
all  are  gambling.  Even  the  lookers-on  at  the  games 
freely  stake  their  money  on  the  fortunes  of  the  several 
players.  The  whole  scene  is  one  of  noise  and  confu- 
sion, fifty  tongues  giving  voice  at  the  same  time.  If 
a  Spaniard  or  Creole  loses  a  dollar  he  gesticulates  and 
arg;ues  about  it  as  tliouo:h  thousands  were  involved 
in  the  issue.  These  people  represent  all  classes. 
Some  are  in  their  shirt-sleeves,  some  rouglily  clothed, 
some  in  full  evening  dress ;  Spaniards,  Creoles,  mu- 
latto :^s,  and  occasionally  an  unmistakable  European. 
They  drink  often,  but  not  strong  liquors,  and  one  is 
surprised  to  hear  coffee  so  often  called  for  in  place  of 
wine.  The  games  are  kept  up  until  two  or  three 
o'clock  in  the  morning.  Loitering  about  the  doors 
beggars  always  form  the  shadow  of  the  scene ;  some 
lame,  some  blind,  mostly  negroes  and  coolies  ;  now  and 
then  there  is  seen  among  them  an  intelligent  but  sad 
Avhite  face,  which  looks  rather  than  utters  its  appeal. 
These  are  often  the  recipients  of  the  successful  gam- 
bler's bounty.  Now  and  again  a  lottery-ticket  vender 
comes  in  and  makes  the  circuit  of  the  tables,  always 
disposing  of  more  or  less  chances,  sometimes  selling  a 
whole  ticket,  price  one  doubloon,  or  seventeen  dollars. 
As  we  watch  the  scene  a  daintily  dressed  youth  with 
shining  beaver  lounges  in,  accompanied  by  one  of  the 
demi-monde  gayly  dressed  and  sparkling  with  jew- 
elry which  betrays  her  want  of  modesty.  She  is  of 
the  true  Andalusian  type,  olive  complexion,  coal-black 
hair  with  eyes  to  match,  and  long  dark  lashes ;  pe- 


152 


DUE  SOUTH. 


tite  in  figure  and  youthful,  but  aged  in  experience. 
Bonnetless,  her  luxuriant  hair  is  set  high  upon  her 
head,  held  by  a  square  tortoise-sliell  comb,  and 
carelessly  thrown  off  her  forehead  witli  a  parting  on 
one  side.  Be  sure  some  sad  story  underlies  lier  career. 
She  is  of  just  that  gypsy  cast  that  painters  love  to  de- 
lineate. They  sit  down  at  a  side  table  and  order  ices, 
cake,  and  champagne.  These  are  consumed  amid 
jests  and  laughter,  the  spurious  cluimpagne,  at  a 
fabulous  cost,  is  drunk  merrily,  the  hours  creep  on, 
and  the  couple  retire  to  give  place  to  others,  after 
having  furnished  a  picture  of  the  fast,  false  life  of 
these  brilliant,  but  dissipated  haunts. 

Some  of  these  cafes  are  more  exclusive  than  others, 
where  respectable  ladies  and  gentlemen  can  retire 
after  the  band  has  ceased  its  performance,  and  enjoy 
the  cooling  influence  of  an  ice.  The  Louvre,  just 
opposite  the  Plaza  de  Isabella  and  adjoining  the 
Tacon  Theatre,  is  one  of  such.  These  establishments 
couple  with  their  current  evening  business  that  of 
the  manufacture  of  choice  preserves  for  domestic  use 
and  also  for  export,  the  fruits  of  the  island  supplying 
the  basis  for  nearly  a  hundred  varieties  of  fruit  pre- 
serves, which  find  hu'ge  sales  in  our  Northern  cities 
ar.d  in  Europe. 

In  carnival  week  these  cafes  do  an  immense  busi- 
ness ;  it  is  the  harvest  of  their  year.  People  who  can 
hardly  afford  three  meals  a  dny  pinch  themselves  and 
suffer  much  self-denial  that  they  may  have  monej^  to 
spend  in  carnival  week.  The  public  masquerade 
balls,  which  then  take  place,  allure  all  classes.  The 
celebrations  of  the  occasion  culminate  in  a  grand 
public  masquerade  ball  given  in  the  Tacon  Theatre. 
The  floor  of  the  parquette  is  temporarily  raised  to  a 


TIIK  FAMOUS  TACON  THEATRE.  153 


level  with  the  boxes  and  the  stage,  the  entire  floor  or 
lower  part  of  the  house  being  converted  into  a  grand 
ball-room.  The  boxes  and  galleries  are  thrown  open 
free  to  the  public.  The  music,  furnisljed  bj^  two 
military  bands,  alternating  in  their  performance, 
is  kept  up  until  broad  daylight,  while  the  participants 
come  and  go  as  they  please.  A  little  after  midnight 
an  organization  called  the  comparzas  comes  upon  the 
scene.  It  is  composed  of  men,  boys,  and  women, 
all  masked,  who  have  [  racticed  for  the  occasi(m  some 
emblematic  dance  to  perform  for  their  own  and  the 
public  amusement.  The  other  danceis  give  way  and 
the  new-comers  perform,  in  harlequin  fashion,  their 
allotted  parts.  Towards  morning  a  large  p^iper  globe 
is  suspended  from  the  ceiling  and  lowered  to  within 
a  certain  height  from  the  floor.  Blindfolded  volunteers 
of  both  sexes,  furnished  with  sticks,  are  permitted  to 
walk  towards  and  try  to  hit  it.  Scores  fail,  others 
just  graze  the  globe  of  paper,  all  amid  loud  laughter 
fi'om  the  spectators.  Finally  some  one  hits  the  globe 
full  and  fair,  bringing  down  the  contents  amid  vocif- 
erous applause.  Then  commences  a  general  scramble 
for  the  contents,  consisting  of  bonbons,  toys,  and 
fancy  trinkets. 

The  celebrated  Tacon  Theatre  faces  the  Paseo  de 
Isabella,  and  is  built  on  the  corner  of  San  Rafael 
Street.  It  is  a  capacious  structure,  but  extremely 
plain  and  unimpressive  in  its  exterior  appearance. 
It  has  five  tiers  of  boxes  and  a  spacious  parquette,  the 
latter  furnished  with  separate  arm-chair  seats  for  six 
hundred  persons.  The  entire  seating  capacity  of  the 
house  is  a  trifle  over  three  thousand,  and  the  audito- 
rium is  of  the  horseshoe  shape.  The  lattice- work  fin- 
ish before  the  boxes  is  very  light  and  graceful  in 


154 


DUE  SOUTH, 


effect,  ornamented  with  gilt,  and  so  open  as  to  display 
the  dresses  and  prett}'-  feet  of  the  fair  occupants  to  the 
best  advantage.  The  frescos  are  in  good  style,  and 
the  ornamentation,  without  being  excessive,  is  in 
excellent  and  harmonious  taste.  A  large,  magnifi- 
cent glass  chandelier,  lighted  with  gas,  and  numerous 
smaller  ones  extending  from  the  boxes  give  a  brilliant 
light  to  this  elegant  house,  which  is  one  of  tlie  largest 
theatres  in  the  world.  The  scene  is  a  remarkable 
one  when  tier  upon  tier  is  filled  wnth  gayly  dressed 
ladies,  powdered  and  rouged  as  Cuban  women  are  apt 
to  be,  in  the  most  liberal  manner.  The  parquette  is 
reserved  for  gentlemen,  and  when  the  audience  is  as- 
sembled forms  a  striking  contrast  to  the  rest  of  the 
house,  as  they  always  appear  in  dark  evening  dress, 
and  between  the  acts  put  on  their  tall  black  beaver 
hats.  These  audiences  have  their  own  special  modes 
of  exhibiting  appreciation  or  applause,  when  capti- 
vated by  a  prima  donna's  or  a  danseuse's  efforts  to 
))]ease  them.  At  favorable  moments  during  the  per- 
formance the  artist  is  showered  witli  bouquets  ;  white 
doves  are  set  free  from  the  boxes,  bearing  laudatory 
verses  fastened  to  their  wings  ;  gentlemen  throw  their 
hats  upon  the  stage,  and  sometimes  even  purses 
weighted  with  gold.  Tiny  balloons  are  started  with 
long  streamers  of  colored  ribbon  attached  ;  jewelry 
in  the  shape  of  bracelets  and  rings  is  conveyed  over 
the  footlights;  in  short,  these  Spaniards  are  some- 
times extraordinarily  demonstrative.  A  furore  has 
sometimes  cost  these  caballeros  large  sums  of  money. 
But  we  are  describing  the  past  rather  than  the  im- 
mediate present,  for  the  scarcity  of  pecuniary  means 
has  put  an  end  to  nearly  all  such  extravagances.  The 
Havanese  are  peculiar  in  their  tastes.    While  Miss 


THE  HAVANA  CASINO, 


155 


Adelaide  Phillips  was  more  tlian  once  the  recipient 
of  extravagant  favors  on  the  Tacon  Theatre  stage, 
Jenny  Lind  did  not  pay  her  professional  expenses 
when  she  sang  there. 

The  military  are  always  in  attendance  in  large 
numbers  at  the  theatre,  as  at  all  public  gatherings  in 
Cuba,  their  only  perceptible  use  being  to  stare  the 
ladies  out  of  countenance  and  to  obstruct  the  passage- 
ways. In  front  of  the  main  entrance  to  the  theatre 
is  an  open  area  decorated  with  tropical  plants  and 
trees,  where  a  group  of  the  crimson  hibiscus  was  ob- 
served, presenting  a  gorgeous  effect  of  color.  The 
other  places  of  amusement  in  Havana,  of  a  dramatic 
character,  are  the  Payret  Theatre,  very  large,  seat- 
ing twenty-five  hundred  ;  the  Albisu  Theatre,  and 
the  Circo,  Teatro  de  Jane,  this  latter  combining  a 
theatre  with  a  circus. 

As  a  place  of  amusement  and  instruction  combined 
we  should  be  remiss  not  to  mention  the  Cnsino  of 
Havana.  It  is  carried  on  by  an  organized  society 
formed  on  the  basis  of  a  club  and  has,  we  were  told, 
over  one  hundred  members.  The  Casino  occupies  a 
fine  building,  fronting  Obispo  Street,  and  close  to 
the  parks.  It  supports  a  free  school  for  teaching  the 
English  and  French  languages  and  drawing.  After 
some  fifteen  years  of  successful  existence  the  society 
has  become  one  of  the  institutions  of  the  metropolis. 
The  halls  and  apartments  are  large,  lofty,  and  very 
finely  furnished  with  all  domestic  conveniences  except 
sleeping  accommodations.  Here  dramatic  entertain- 
ments are  frequently  given,  mostly  by  amateurs,  and 
generally  for  charitable  purposes.  The  main  ball- 
room of  the  Casino  is  handsomely  decorated  and  is 
the  scene  of  occasional  masked  balls,  after  the  true 


156 


DUE  SOUTH. 


Madrid  style,  where  many  an  intrigue  Is  consum- 
mated which  does  not  always  end  without  bloodshed. 
It  is  the  favorite  resort  of  all  the  high  officials  of  Ha- 
vana, who  have  within  their  possible  reach  too  few 
social  entertainments  not  to  make  the  most  of  those 
presented  at  the  Casino.  During  tlie  carnival  season 
the  ball-room  of  the  establishment  is  said  to  present, 
in  the  form  of  nightly  masquerade  balls,  scenes  which 
for  gayety  and  picturesqueness  cannot  be  surpassed  in 
Europe. 

Old  Havana  is  certainly  eclipsed  by  the  really 
fine  broad  streets  and  the  palatial  buildings  which 
have  sprung  up  outside  of  her  ancient  limits.  In 
point  of  picturesqueness  the  old  town  has  prece- 
dence. Near  where  the  Indian  Paseo  and  the  Plaza 
de  Isabella  II.  join  each  otiier,  a  portion  of  the  old 
wall  which  once  surrounded  the  city  is  still  to  be 
seen,  witli  its  crumbling  bastions  and  ivj^-grown  de- 
bris. Sufficient  is  left  to  show  that  the  wall  was  a  re- 
markably substantial  one  and  an  efficient  defense 
against  the  modes  of  attack  prevalent  when  it  was 
built.  The  Indian  Paseo  commences  opposite  the 
Campo  de  Marte,  and  is  so  called  from  the  large  mar- 
ble fountain  dedicated  to  that  aboriginal  idea.  This 
elaborate  structure  was  executed  in  Italy  at  large 
expense.  Its  principal  figure  is  an  Indian  maiden, 
allegorical  of  Havana,  supporting  a  shield  bearing  the 
arms  of  the  city.  These  paseos  are  admirably  orna- 
mented on  either  side  by  a  continuous  line  of  laurel 
trees  whose  thick  foliage  gives  admirable  shade.  On 
either  side  of  the  long  central  promenade  the  well- 
paved  streets  are  broad  and  handsome,  being  orna- 
mented with  high  buildings  of  a  domestic  and  public 
character  and  of  good  architectural  effect.    The  Ma- 


THE  GOVERNOR'S  GARDEN, 


157 


tanzas  &  Havana  Railroad  depot  is  situated  just  oppo- 
site one  end  of  the  Campo  de  Marte,  its  freight  yard 
extending  also  along  the  Paseo  for  an  entire  block, 
detracing  much  from  the  fine  effect  of  the  broad 
street.  The  trains  and  noisy  engines  being  thus 
brought  into  the  midst  of  the  dwellings  and  business 
centre  of  the  city  render  it  very  objectionable.  The 
guests  of  the  Telegrafo  Hotel  can  bear  testimony  as 
to  the  nuisance  thus  created,  being  awakened  at  all 
sorts  of  unreasonable  hours  by  the  engine  bell  and 
steam  whistle. 

The  Botanical  Garden  is  situated  about  a  mile 
from  the  city  proper,  adjoining  which  are  the  at- 
tractive grounds  of  the  Governor  General's  country- 
house.  Both  are  open  to  the  public  and  richly  repay 
a  visit.  The  Governor's  grounds  are  shaded  by  a 
great  variety  of  tropical  trees  and  flowers.  Here 
was  seen  what  is  called  the  water  rose,  pink  in  color 
and  nearly  double  the  size  of  our  pond  lily,  recalling 
the  Egyptian  lotus,  to  which  family  it  would  seem 
it  must  belong.  Altogether,  the  place  is  a  wilder- 
ness of  blossoms,  composed  of  exotic  and  native  flow- 
ers. There  is  also  an  interesting  aviary  to  be  seen  here, 
and  a  small  artificial  lake  is  covered  with  curious  web- 
footed  birds  and  brilliant-feathered  ducks.  The  gar- 
dens seem  to  be  neglected,  but  they  are  very  lovely 
in  their  native  luxuriance.  Dead  wood  and  decaying 
leaves  are  always  a  concomitant  of  such  gardens  in 
the  low  latitudes.  If  the  roses  and  heliotropes  are  in 
full  bloom,  some  other  flowering  shrub  alongside  is 
taking  its  rest  and  looks  rusty,  so  that  the  whole  gar- 
den is  never  in  a  glow  of  beauty  at  one  time,  as  is  the 
case  with  us  in  June.  The  noble  alley  of  palms,  the 
great  variety  of  trees,  blossoms,  and  shrubs,  the  music 


158 


DUE  SOUTH. 


of  the  fountains,  and  the  tropical  flavor  permeating 
everything  were  all  in  the  harmony  of  languid  beauty. 
The  coral  tree,  that  lovely  freak  of  vegetation,  was  in 
bloom,  its  small  but  graceful  stem,  seven  or  eight  feet 
in  height,  being  topped  above  the  gracefully  pendent 
leaves  with  a  bit  of  vegetable  coral  of  deepest  red, 
and  in  the  form  of  the  sea  growth  from  which  it  takes 
its  name.  The  star  cactus  was  in  full  flower,  the 
scarlet  buds  starting  out  from  the  flat  surface  of  the 
thick  leaves  after  a  queer  and  original  fashion.  The 
bread-fruit  tree,  with  its  large,  melon-like  product, 
hung  heavy  with  the  nourishing  esculent.  The  Caro- 
lina tree,  with  gorgeous  blossoms  like  military  pom- 
pons, blazed  here  and  there,  overshadowing  the  large, 
pure  white,  and  beautiful  campanile,  with  hanging 
flowers,  like  metallic  bells,  after  which  the  plant  is 
named.  Here  too  w^as  a  great  variety  of  the  scarlet 
hibiscus  and  the  garland  of  night  (galan  de  noclie), 
which  grows  like  a  young  palm  to  eight  or  nine  feet, 
throwing  out  from  the  centre  of  its  drooping  foli- 
age a  cluster  of  brown  blossoms  tipped  with  white, 
shaped  like  a  mammoth  bunch  of  grapes.  It  blooms 
at  night  and  is  fragrant  only  by  moon  and  starlight. 
Cuba  presents  an  inexhaustible  field  for  the  botanist, 
and  in  its  wilder  portions  recalls  the  island  of  Ceylon 
in  the  Indian  Ocean.  As  Ceylon  is  called  the  pearl 
of  India  so  is  Cuba  the  pearl  of  the  Antilles. 

To  reach  the  Governor's  Garden  one  turns  west 
from  the  Campo  de  Marte  and  takes  the  Calzada  de 
la  Reina,  which  followed  about  a  mile  in  a  straight 
line  becomes  the  Paseo  de  Tacon,  really  but  a  contin- 
uation of  the  former  street,  commencing  at  the  statue 
of  Carlos  III.,  a  colossal  monument  placed  in  the  mid- 
dle of  the  broad  driveway.  This  Paseo  forms  the  favo- 


THE  ALAMEDA. 


159 


rite  evening  drive  of  the  citizens,  where  the  ladies  in 
victorias  and  the  gentlemen  either  as  equestrians  or  on 
foot  pass  and  repass  each  other,  gayly  sakiting,  tlie 
ladies  with  a  coquettish  flourish  of  the  fan,  and  the 
gentlemen  with  a  peculiar  wave  of  the  hand.  It  is  in 
fact  the  Champs  Ely  sees  of  Havana,  but  the  road  is 
sadly  out  of  repair  and  as  dusty  as  an  ash-pit. 

The  Alameda  —  every  large  Spanish  city  has  a 
spot  so  designated  —  skirts  the  shore  of  the  harbor 
on  the  city  side,  near  the  south  end  of  Oficios  Street, 
and  is  a  favorite  resort  for  promenaders  at  the  even- 
ing hour.  Here  a  refreshing  coohiess  is  breathed 
from  off  the  sea.  This  Alameda  de  Paula  might  be 
a  continuation  of  the  Neapolitan  Chiaja.  With  char- 
acteristics quite  different,  still  these  shores  constantly 
remind  one  of  the  Mediterranean,  Sorrento,  Amalfi, 
and  Capri,  recalling  the  shadows  which  daily  creep 
up  the  heights  of  San  Elmo  and  disappear  with  the 
setting  sun  behind  the  orange  groves.  Sometimes  it 
would  seem  to  be  the  grand  problem  of  humanity, 
why  the  loveliest  regions  of  the  earth  and  the  softest 
climates  should  be  apportioned  to  the  share  of  slaves 
and  despots. 

The  cathedral  of  Havana,  on  Empedrado  Street, 
is  a  structure  of  much  interest,  its  rude  pillared  front 
of  defaced  and  moss-grown  stone  plainly  telling  of 
the  wear  of  time.  The  two  lofty  towers  are  hung 
with  many  bells,  which  daily  call  with  their  brazen 
tongues  to  matins  and  vespers.  Some  of  these  bells 
are  very  ancient.  The  church  is  not  elaborately  or- 
namented,—  it  rather  strikes  one  with  its  unusual 
plainness.  It  contains  a  few  oil  paintings  of  mode- 
rate merit,  and  also  the  tomb  where  the  ashes  of  Co- 
lumbus so  long  reposed.    All  that  is  visible  of  this 


160 


DUE  SOUTH. 


tomb,  whicli  is  on  the  right  of  the  altar,  is  a  marble 
tablet  six  or  eight  feet  square,  upon  which,  in  high 
relief,  is  a  bust  of  the  great  discoverer.  As  a  work  of 
art,  the  less  said  of  this  effigy  the  better.  Beneath 
the  image  is  an  inscription  sufficiently  bombastic  and 
Spanish  in  tone,  but  therein  we  observed  no  mention 
was  made  of  the  chains  and  imprisonment  with  w^hich 
an  ungrateful  country  rewarded  this  man  whom  his- 
tory so  delights  to  honor.  It  will  be  remembered 
that  Columbus  died  at  Valladolid  in  1606.  In  1513 
his  remains  were  transferred  to  Seville,  preparatory 
to  their  being  sent,  as  desired  in  his  will,  to  St.  Do- 
mingo, to  which  city  they  were  removed  in  1536. 
When  that  island  was  ceded  to  France,  they  were 
brought  with  great  pomp  to  Havana  in  a  nation^tl 
sliip  (January  15,  1796),  and  deposited  in  this  cathe- 
dral in  the  presence  of  all  the  high  authorities  of  the 
island.  These  remains  have  again  been  removed,  and 
are  now  interred  at  Seville,  in  Spain.  The  cathedral, 
aside  from  this  association,  is  really  attractive,  and 
one  lingers  with  quiet  thoughtfulness  among  its  mar- 
ble aisles  and  confessionals.  The  lofty  dome  is  sup- 
ported by  pillars  of  marble  and  the  walls  are  frescoed. 
The  high  altar  is  a  remarkable  composition,  with  pil- 
lars of  porphyry  mingled  with  a  confusion  of  images, 
candlesticks,  and  tinsel.  The  stalls  for  the  priests  ai'e 
handsomely  carved  in  mahogany.  It  was  annoying 
to  see  Gothic  grandeur  and  modern  frippery  so 
mingled  as  was  observable  in  this  church.  When 
mass  is  being  performed  women  attend  in  goodly 
numbers,  but  one  rarely  sees  any  of  the  male  popula- 
tion present,  unless  they  be,  like  the  author,  strangers 
come  hither  from  curiosity  to  see  the  interior  of  this 
Cathedral  de  la  Virgen  Maria  de  la  Concepcion. 


THE  OLD  BELL-RINGER, 


161 


All  persons  who  come  to  Havana  visit  the  cathedral 
because  it  contains  the  tomb  of  Columbus,  but  if 
they  Iiave  traveled  in  Europe  they  have  seen  so  much 
finer  structures  of  this  class,  especially  in  Spain,  that 
this  one  challenges  but  little  attention.  I^et  us,  gen- 
tle reader,  go  up  into  the  lofty  bell  tower,  where  we 
shall  find  the  most  comprehensive  view  possible  of 
the  Cuban  capital.  The  old  bell-ringer,  seated  before 
a  deal  table,  ekes  out  a  scanty  living  by  making  ci- 
gars aw^ay  up  here  in  his  circumscribed  eyrie.  What 
an  original  he  would  have  been  in  the  practiced  hands 
of  Victor  Hugo !  This  hermit  of  the  tower  will  call 
your  attention  to  the  ancient  bells,  which  are  his  sole 
companions  :  one  bears  the  date  of  1664,  with  a  half- 
defaced  Latin  legend ;  another  is  dated  at  London, 
1698.  He  is  a  queer  old  enthusiast  about  these  bells, 
and  will  tell  you  on  what  special  occasions  of  interest 
he  has  caused  them  to  speak  with  metallic  tongue  to 
the  people:  now  as  a  danger  signal;  then  uttering 
sounds  of  triumph  and  announcing  a  victory ;  again, 
tolling  the  notes  of  sorrow  for  the  departed,  or  as 
merry  marriage  bells,  the  heralds  of  joy.  He  will  tell 
you  how  many  years,  man  and  boy,  he  has  summoned 
the  devout  to  matins  and  to  vespers  with  their  res- 
onant voices.  If  you  have  a  fancy  for  such  things, 
and  some  silver  to  spare,  after  leaving  the  bell  tower 
tlie  sacristan  will  show  you  the  rich  vestments,  robes, 
and  laces  for  priestly  wear  belonging  to  the  church, 
not  forgetting  many  saintly  garments  wrought  in  gold 
and  studded  with  precious  stones.  Perhaps  you  will 
think,  as  we  did,  that  such  things  are  but  tinsel  be- 
fore Him  whom  they  are  supposed  to  honor.  Such 
dazzling  paraphernalia  may  attract  the  ignorant  or 
the  thoughtless  —  may  make  followers,  but  not  con- 
11 


162 


DUE  SOUTH. 


verts.  Conviction  is  not  the  child  of  fancy,  but  of 
judgment. 

In  an  anteroom  at  the  left  of  the  altar  there  are 
also  to  be  seen  utensils  of  silver  and  gold,  with  many 
costly  ornaments  for  use  before  the  altar  on  s]3ecial 
church  occasions.  One  of  these  is  a  triumph  of  deli- 
cate workmanship  and  of  the  silversmith's  art.  It  is 
in  the  form  of  a  Gothic  tower  of  very  elaborate  and  ar- 
tistic design,  composed  of  solid  silver,  ornamented 
with  gold  and  precious  stones.  One  regards  this  thor- 
oughly useless  disposal  of  money  with  the  thought 
tliat  the  articles  were  better  sold  and  the  proceeds 
bt^stowed  in  worthy  charity.  It  would  then  fulfill  a 
far  more  Christian  purpose  than  that  of  adding  glitter 
to  church  pomp  and  ceremony. 

To  witness  the  observance  of  Holy  Week,  commen- 
cing with  Palm  Sunday,  in  Havana,  one  would  be 
impressed  with  a  conviction  that  the  people  were  at 
heart  devout  Roman  Catholics.  The  occasion  is  sol- 
emnly observed.  On  Sunday  the  old  cathedral  is 
crowded  h\  people  who  come  to  obtain  branches  of 
lioly  palm  from  the  priests.  The  old  bell-ringer  be- 
comes an  important  agent  of  the  ceremonies,  and  the 
solemn  spirit  of  the  occasion  seems  to  imbue  all 
classes  of  the  Havanese.  On  Holy  Thursday,  just 
before  midday,  the  bells  of  all  the  churches  cease  to 
ring,  and  every  vehicle  in  the  city  disappears  from  the 
streets  as  if  by  magic.  The  garrison  marches  through 
the  principal  thoroughfares  in  silence,  with  measured 
tread  and  arms  reversed.  The  national  flags  upon 
the  shipping,  and  on  all  the  forts  from  Moro  to  the 
Castillo  del  Principe,  are  displayed  at  half  mast 
The  cathedral  and  the  churches  are  draped  in  mourn- 
ing.   On  Friday,  the  eSigy  of  our  Saviour's  body  is 


MILITARY  MASS, 


1G3 


carried  in  solemn  procession,  men  and  priests  march- 
ing with  heads  uncovered,  and  devout  women  of  the 
common  classes,  especially  colored  ones,  kneeling  in 
the  street  as  it  passes.  On  Saturday,  at  ten  o'clock  in 
the  morning,  the  old  bell-ringer  suddenly  starts  a 
merry  peal  from  the  cathedral  tower  —  the  bells  of 
La  Merced,  San  Agustin,  Santa  Clara,  and  Santa 
Cataline  follow  ;  the  town  awakens  to  gayety  as  from 
a  lethargic  sleep.  Whites  and  negroes  rush  through 
the  streets  like  mad  ;  vehicles  of  all  sorts  again  make 
their  appearance,  the  forts  and  national  ships  are 
dressed  in  holiday  flags,  and  the  town  is  shaken  with 
reiterated  salutes  from  a  hundred  cannons. 

Military  mass,  as  performed  within  the  cathedral, 
seemed  more  like  a  theatrical  show  than  a  solemn 
religious  service.  On  the  occasion  referred  to,  the 
congregation  as  usual  was  sparse,  and  consisted  al- 
most exclusively  of  women,  who  seem  to  do  penance 
for  both  sexes  in  Cuba.  The  military  band  wdiich  led 
the  column  of  infantry  marched  in,  playing  a  quick 
operatic  air,  deploying  to  one  side  for  the  soldiery 
to  pass  towards  the  altar.  The  time-keeping  steps 
of  the  soldiery  upon  the  marble  floor  mingled  with 
drum,  fife,  and  organ.  Through  all  this,  one  caught 
now  and  then  the  monotonous  voice  of  a  shaven- 
headed  priest,  reciting  liis  prescribed  part  at  the  al- 
tar, kneeling  and  reading  at  intervals.  The  busy 
censer  boys  in  white  gowns;  the  flaring  candles 
casting  long  shadows  athwa^rt  the  high  altar;  the  files 
of  soldiers  kneeling  and  rising  at  the  tap  of  the  drum  ; 
the  atmosphere  clouded  with  the  fumes  of  burning 
incense,  —  all  combined  to  make  up  a  singularly  dra- 
matic picture.  The  gross  mummery  witnessed  at  the 
temple  of  Buddha  in  Ceylon  differed  only  in  form, 
scarcely  in  degree. 


164 


DUE  SOUTH. 


The  wealth  of  the  churches  of  the  monks  in  the 
island  was  formerly  proverbial,  but  of  late  the  rich 
perquisites  which  the  priests  were  so  long  permitted  to 
extort  from  the  credulous  public  have  been  diverted 
so  as  to  flow  into  the  coffers  of  the  crown.  A  military 
depotism  brooks  no  rival  in  authority.  The  priests 
at  one  time  possessed  large  tracts  of  land  in  Cuba, 
and  their  revenue  therefrom,  especially  when  they 
w^ere  improved  as  sugar  plantations,  was  very  large. 
These  lands  have  all  been  confiscated  by  the  govern- 
ment, and  with  the  loss  of  their  property  the  power  of 
the  monks  has  declined  and  their  numbers  have  also 
diminished.  Still  the  liberty  of  public  worship  is  de- 
nied to  all  save  Roman  Catholics.  Since  the  sup- 
pression of  monastic  institutions,  some  of  the  convents 
have  been  utilized  for  hospitals,  government  store- 
houses, and  other  public  offices  in  Havana.  There 
are  some  manifest  incongruities  that  suggest  them- 
selves as  existing  between  Church  and  state  upon  the 
island.  For  instance,  the  Church  recognizes  the  unity 
of  all  races  and  even  permits  marriage  between  all, 
but  here  steps  in  the  civil  law  of  Cuba  and  prohibits 
marriage  between  white  persons  and  those  having  any 
taint  of  negro  blood.  In  consequence  of  this, — na- 
ture always  asserting  herself  regardless  of  conven- 
tionalities,—  a  quasi  familj^-  arrangement  often  exists 
between  white  men  and  mulatto  or  quadroon  women, 
whereby  the  children  are  recognized  as  legitimate. 
But  should  either  party  come  under  the  discipline  of 
the  Church,  the  relationship  must  terminate.  Again, 
as  is  perfectly  well  known,  many  of  the  priests,  under 
a  thin  disguise,  lead  domestic  lives,  where  a  family  of 
children  exist  under  the  care  of  a  single  mother,  who 
is  debarred  from  the  honest  name  of  wife  by  the  laws 


PRIESTLY  LICENSE. 


165 


of  celibacy  which  are  stringently  held  as  the  inexor- 
able rule  of  the  Church. 

If  the  priesthood  keep  from  cock-fighting  and 
gambling,  says  a  late  writer  on  the  subject,  notwith- 
standing many  other  departures  from  propriety,  they 
are  considered  respectable.  Can  there  be  any  wonder 
that  the  masses  of  men  in  Cuba  recognize  no  religions 
obligations,  since  none  save  Roman  Catholicism  is 
tolerated,  and  that,  through  its  priesthood,  is  so  dis- 
graced ? 


CHAPTER  IX. 


Political  Inquisition. — Fashionable  Streets  of  the  City.  —  Trades- 
men's Signs.  —  Bankrupt  Condition  of  Traders.  —  The  Spanish 
Army.  —  Exiled  Patriots.  —  Arrival  of  Eecruits.  —  The  Garrote. 
—  A  Military  Execution.  —  Cuban  Milk  Dealers. — Exposure  of 
Domestic  Life.  —  Living  in  the  Open  Air.  —  The  Campo  Santo  of 
Havana.  —  A  Funeral  Cortege. — Punishing  Slaves. —  Campo  de 
Marte.  —  Hotel  Telegrafo.  —  Environs  of  the  City.  —  Bishop's  Gar- 
den. —  Consul-General  Williams.  —  Mineral  Springs. 

The  Inquisition,  as  it  regards  the  Church  of  Rome, 
is  suppressed  in  Cuba,  but  the  political  inquisition, 
as  exercised  by  the  government  on  the  island,  is  even 
more  diabolical  than  that  of  the  former  Jesuitical 
organization,  because  it  is  more  secret  in  its  murder- 
ous deeds,  not  one  half  of  the  horrors  of  which  will 
ever  be  publicly  known.  Moro  Castle  is  full  of  po- 
litical prisoners,  wlio  are  thinned  out  by  executions, 
starvation,  and  hardships  generally,  from  day  to  day, 
only  to  make  room  for  fresh  victims.  He  who  enters 
those  grim  portals  leaves  nil  hope  behind.  Political 
trials  there  are  none,  but  of  political  arrests  there  are 
endless  numbers.  The  life  of  every  citizen  is  at  the 
disposal  of  the  Captain-General.  If  a  respectable 
person  is  arrested,  as  one  suspected  of  animosity 
towards  the  government,  he  simply  disappears.  His 
friends  dare  not  press  his  defense,  or  inquire  too 
closely  as  to  his  case,  lest  they,  too,  should  be  incar- 
cerated on  suspicion,  never  again  to  regain  their  lib- 
erty. A  maxim  of  Spanish  law  is  that  every  accused 
person  is  guilty,  until  he  proves  himself  innocent !  As 


TRADESMEN'S  SIGNS. 


167 


a  large  majority  of  the  people,  in  their  hearts,  sym- 
pathize with  the  revolutionists,  and  are  revolutionists 
in  secret,  they  are  liable  to  say  or  to  do  some  trifling 
thing  unwittingly,  upon  which  the  lynx-eyed  officials 
seize  as  evidence  of  guilt,  and  tlieir  arrest  follows. 
What  fearful  stories  the  dungeons  of  Moro  could  re- 
veal had  they  tongue  with  which  to  speak ! 

Obispo  and  O' Riley  streets  are  the  principal  shop- 
ping thoroughfares  of  the  metropolis,  containing 
many  fine  stores  for  the  sale  of  dry  goods,  millinery, 
china,  glassware,  and  jewelry.  Tliese  shops  are 
generally  quite  open  in  front.  Standing  at  the  end, 
and  looking  along  either  of  these  thoroughfares,  one 
gets  a  curious  perspective  view.  The  party-colored 
awnings  often  stretch  entirely  across  the  narrow 
streets,  reminding  one  of  a  similar  effect  in  Canton, 
where  straw  matting  takes  the  place  of  canvas,  form- 
ing a  sort  of  open  marquee.  The  queer  names 
adopted  for  the  stores  never  fail  to  afford  a  theme  of 
amusement;  the  drawling  cries  of  the  fruit-dealers 
and  peripatetic  tradesmen  giving  an  added  interest. 
Tlie  merchant  in  Havana  does  not  designate  his 
establishment  by  placing  his  own  name  upon  his  sign, 
but  adopts  some  fancy  title,  such  as  Diana,  America, 
The  Star,  Virtue,  The  Golden  Lion,  and  so  on,  which 
titles  are  paraded  in  gilt  letters  over  the  door.  The 
Spanish  people  are  always  prodigal  in  names,  making 
the  sun,  moon  and  stars,  gods  and  goddesses,  all  do 
duty  in  designating  their  stores,  villas,  and  planta- 
tions. Nearly  every  town  on  the  island  is  named 
after  some  apostle  or  saint.  The  tradesmen  are  thor- 
ough Jews  in  their  style  of  dealing  with  the  public, 
and  no  one  thinks  of  paying  them  the  price  which 
they  first  demand  for  an  article.    It  is  their  practice 


168 


DUE  SOUTH. 


in  naming  a  price  to  make  allowance  for  reducticvn  ; 
they  expect  to  be  bargained  with,  or  cheapened  at  least 
one  half.  The  ladies  commonly  make  their  purchases 
late  in  the  afternoon  or  evening,  stopping  in  their 
victorias  at  the  doors  of  the  shops,  from  whence  the 
articles  they  desire  are  brought  by  the  shopmen  and 
deftly  displayed  on  the  street.  When  liglited  up  at 
night  the  stores  are  really  brilliant  and  attractive, 
presenting  quite  a  holiday  appearance;  but  customers 
are  sadly  wanting  in  these  days  of  business  depres- 
sion. I  have  been  compelled  to  dismiss  my  sales- 
men and  do  their  work  myself,"  said  a  dry- goods 
merchant  to  us  ;  "  we  dare  not  give  credit,  and  few 
persons  have  cash  to  spare  in  these  times." 

One  of  the  principal  causes  of  the  present  bank- 
rupt condition  of  the  people  of  Cuba  is  the  critical 
period  of  transition  through  which  the  island  is 
passing  from  slave  to  free  labor;  besides  which  there 
is  the  exhaustion  consequent  upon  years  of  civil  war 
and  a  succession  of  bad  crops.  Labor  is  becoming 
dearer  and  sugar  cheaper.  The  Spaniards  are  slow 
to  adopt  labor-saving  machinerj^,  or  new  ideas  of  any 
sort,  and  those  not  ah-eady  supplied  have  neither 
capital  nor  credit  with  which  to  procure  the  new 
machinery  for  sugar-making.  The  enormous  produc- 
tion of  European  beet-sugar  has  cut  off  all  Conti- 
nental demand  for  their  staple,  and  has  in  some 
degree  superseded  its  use  in  America.  Brigandage 
is  on  the  increase,  as  poverty  and  want  of  legitimate 
employment  prevail.  Money,  when  it  can  be  bor- 
rowed at  all,  is  at  a  ruinous  interest.  The  army  of 
office-holders  still  manage  to  extort  considerable  sums 
in  the  aggregate  from  the  people,  under  the  guise  of 
necessary  taxes.    Financial  ruin  stares  all  in  the  face. 


REVERSES  OF  FORTUNE.  169 


It  is  a  sad  thing  to  say,  but  only  too  true,  that  among 
people  heretofore  considered  above  suspicion  in  com- 
mercial transactions  great  dishonesty  prevails,  pe- 
cuniary distress  and  lack  of  credit  driving  men,  once 
in  good  standing,  to  defraud  their  creditors  at  home 
and  abroad.  Estates  and  plantations  are  not  only 
heavily  mortgaged,  but  the  prospective  crops  are  in 
the  same  condition,  in  many  cases.  In  former  pros- 
perous years  the  planters  have  been  lavish  spenders 
of  money,  ever  ready  to  use  their  credit  to  the  full 
extent,  until  their  interest  account  has  consumed 
their  principal.  The  expensive  habits  acquired  under 
the  promptings  of  large  profits  and  a  sure  market  are 
difficult  to  overcome,  and  people  who  never  antici- 
pated the  present  state  of  affairs  are  now  forced  to 
exercise  economy  and  self-denial.  Cuban  planters 
and  their  families,  in  years  past,  came  to  our  most 
fashionable  watering-places  decked  with  jewels  of 
almost  fabulous  value,  and  they  lavished  gold  like 
water ;  most  of  these  individuals  considered  them- 
selves to  be  rich  beyond  the  chances  of  fortune. 
Their  profuse  style  of  living  was  a  source  of  envy; 
their  liberality  to  landlords  and  to  servants  was 
demoralizing,  as  it  regarded  the  tariff  of  hotel  prices 
for  more  steady-going  people.  Thousands  of  human 
beings  were  yielding  their  enforced  labor  to  fill  these 
spendthrifts'  purses,  and  sugar  was  king.  The  pic- 
ture has  its  reverse.  Civil  war  has  supervened,  the 
slaves  are  being  freed,  sugar  is  no  longer  a  bonanza, 
and  the  rich  man  of  yesterday  is  the  bankrupt  of  to- 
day.   Truly  riches  have  wings. 

Spain  keeps  a  large  and  effective  force  of  soldiers 
upon  the  island,  —  an  army  out  of  all  proportion  in 
numbers  to  the  territory  or  people  she-  holds  in 


170 


DUE  SOUTH. 


subjection.  The  present  military  force  must  number 
some  forty  thousand,  rank  and  file,  and  the  civil  de- 
partment fully  equals  the  army  in  number  :  and  all 
are  home  Spaniards.  A  large  portion  of  the  military 
are  kept  in  the  eastern  department  of  the  island, 
which  is  and  has  ever  been  the  locality  where  revo- 
lutionary outbreaks  occur.  Eighty  per  cent,  of  all 
the  soldiers  ever  sent  to  Cuba  have  perished  there ! 
It  is  as  Castelar  once  pronounced  the  island  to  be, 
in  the  Cortes  at  Madrid,  nauiely,  the  Campo  Santo 
of  the  Spanish  army.  Exposure,  a  miserable  com- 
missariat, the  climate,  and  insurgent  bullets  combine 
to  thin  the  ranks  of  the  army  like  a  raging  pestilence. 
We  were  informed  by  a  responsible  party  that  twenty- 
five  per  cent,  of  the  newly-arrived  soldiers  died  in 
their  first  year,  during  what  is  called  their  acclimation. 
Foreigners  who  visit  Cuba  for  business  or  pleasure 
do  so  at  the  most  favorable  season  ;  they  are  not  sub- 
jected to  hardships  nor  exposed  in  malarial  districts. 
The  soldiers,  on  the  contrary,  are  sent  indiscrim- 
inately into  the  fever  districts  at  the  worst  season, 
besides  being  called  upon  to  endure  hardships,  all  the 
time,  which  predispose  them  to  fatal  diseases. 

There  are  known  to  be  organized  juntas  of  revo- 
lutionists at  Key  West,  Florida,  in  Hayti,  and  also 
in  New  York  city,  whose  designs  upon  the  Cuban 
government  keep  the  authorities  on  the  island  in  a 
state  of  chronic  alarm.  A  revolutionary  spirit  is  felt 
to  be  all  the  while  smouldering  in  the  hearts  of  this 
oppressed  people,  and  hence  the  tyrannous  espionage, 
and  the  cruelty  exercised  towards  suspected  persons. 
So  enormous  are  the  expenses,  military  and  civil, 
which  are  required  to  sustain  the  government,  under 
these  circumstances,  that  Cuba  to-day,  notwithstand- 


EXILED  PA TRIOTS  —  RECR UITS, 


171 


ing  the  heavy  taxes  extorted  from  her  populace,  is  an 
annual  expense  to  the  throne.  Formerly  the  snug 
sum  of  seven  or  eight  milUons  of  dollars  was  the 
yearly  contribution  which  the  island  made  to  the 
royal  treasury,  after  paying  local  army,  navy,  and 
civil  expenses.  This  handsome  sum  was  over  and 
above  the  pickings  and  stealings  of  the  venal  officials. 
As  to  the  Cuban  sympathizers  at  Key  West,  Florida, 
a  recent  visit  to  that  port,  just  opposite  to  the  island 
on  the  hither  side  of  the  Gulf  Stream,  showed  us  that 
they  formed  a  large  proportion  of  the  population  of 
that  thrifty  American  town.  On  a  day  which  was 
the  anniversary  of  some  patriotic  occasion  relating  to 
the  island,  hundreds  of  Cuban  flags  (the  single  star  of 
free  Cuba)  were  seen  displayed  upon  the  dwellings 
and  public  places.  There  are  believed  to  be  two 
thousand  Creoles  residing  here,  who  have  either  been 
expelled  from  the  island  for  political  reasons,  or 
who  have  escaped  from  thence  as  suspected  patriots. 
These  people  are  very  generally  engaged  in  the 
manufacture  of  the  well-known  Key  West  cigars. 

The  Spanish  army  is  governed  with  an  iron  hand. 
Military  law  knows  no  mercy,  and  it  is  always  more 
or  less  a  lapse  into  barbarism  where  it  takes  pre- 
cedence. The  ranks  are  filled  by  conscription  in 
Spain,  and  when  the  men  first  arrive  at  Havana  they 
are  the  rawest  recruits  imaginable.  Soldiers  who 
have  been  doing  garrison  duty  are  sent  inland  to  fill 
the  decimated  ranks  of  various  stations,  and  room  is 
thus  made  for  the  recruits,  who  are  at  once  put  to 
work,  enduring  a  course  of  severe  discipline  and  drill. 
They  land  from  the  transports,  many  of  them,  hatless, 
barefooted,  and  in  a  filthy  condition,  with  scarcely  a 
whole  garment  among  a  regiment  of  them.  The 


172 


DUE  SOUTH. 


writer  could  hardly  believe,  on  witnessing  the  scene, 
that  they  were  not  a  set  of  criminals  being  trans- 
ported for  penal  servitude.  Fatigue  dresses  no  doubt 
awaited  them  at  the  barracks,  and  after  a  while  they 
would  be  served  with  a  cheap  uniform,  coarse  shoes, 
and  straw  hats.  They  are  like  sheep  being  driven  to 
the  shambles,  and  are  quite  as  helpless.  Twenty-five 
per  cent,  and  upwards  of  these  recruits  are  usually 
under  the  sod  before  the  close  of  a  twelve-month! 

Sometimes  the  hardship  they  have  to  endure  breeds 
rebellion  among  them,  but  woe  betide  those  who 
commit  any  overt  act,  or  become  leaders  of  any 
organized  attempt  to  obtain  justice.  The  service 
requires  frequent  victims  as  examples  to  enforce  the 
rigid  discipline.  The  punishment  by  the  garrote  is 
a  common  resort.  It  is  a  machine  contrived  to  choke 
the  victim  to  death  without  suspending  him  in  the 
air.  At  the  same  time  it  is  fatal  in  another  way, 
namely,  by  severing  the  spinal  column  just  below 
its  connection  with  the  brain.  The  condemned  man 
is  placed  upon  a  chair  fixed  on  a  platform,  leaning 
his  head  and  neck  back  into  a  sort  of  iron  yoke  or 
frame  prepared  to  receive  it.  Here  an  iron  collar 
is  clasped  about  the  throat.  At  the  appointed  mo- 
ment a  screw  is  suddenly  turned  by  the  executioner, 
stationed  behind  the  condemned,  and  instantaneous 
death  follows.  This  would  seem  to  be  more  merciful 
than  hanging,  whereby  death  is  produced  by  the  lin- 
gering process  of  suffocation,  to  say  nothing  of  the 
many  mishaps  which  so  often  occur  upon  the  gallows. 
This  mode  of  punishment  is  looked  upon  by  the  army 
as  a  disgrace,  and  they  much  prefer  the  legitimate 
death  of  a  soldier,  which  is  to  fall  by  the  bullets  of 
his  comrades  when  condemned  to  die. 


A  MILITARY  EXECUTION. 


173 


The  writer  witnessed  one  of  these  military  execu- 
tions, early  on  a  clear  April  morning,  which  took 
place  in  the  rear  of  the  barracks  near  La  Piinta.  It 
was  a  trying  experience,  and  recalled  to  mind  the 
execution  of  the  mulatto  poet  and  patriot,  Valdez, 
which  had  occurred  a  few  years  before  in  the  Plaza 
at  Matanzas.  It  was  a  sight  to  chill  the  blood  even 
under  a  tropical  sun.  A  soldier  of  the  line  was  to 
be  shot  for  some  act  of  insubordination  against  the 
stringent  rules  of  the  army,  and  that  the  punishment 
might  prove  a  forcible  example  to  his  comrades  the 
battalion  to  which  he  belonged  was  drawn  up  on 
parade  to  witness  the  cruel  scene.  The  immediate 
file  of  twelve  men  to  which  the  victim  had  belonged 
were  supplied  with  muskets  by  their  officer,  and  we 
were  told  that,  according  to  custom,  one  musket  was 
left  without  ball,  so  that  each  one  might  hope  that 
his  was  not  the  hand  to  slay  his  former  comrade.  A 
sense  of  mercy  would  still  lead  them  all  to  aim  faith- 
fully, so  that  lingering  pain  might  be  avoided. 

The  order  was  given  :  the  bright  morning  sun  shone 
like  living  fire  along  the  polished  barrels  of  the  guns, 
as  the  fatal  muzzles  all  ranged  in  point  at  the  body  of 
the  condemned.  Fire  !  "  said  the  commanding  officer. 
A  quick,  rattling  report  followed,  accompanied  by 
a  thin  cloud  of  smoke,  which  was  at  once  dispersed  by 
the  sea  breeze,  showing  the  still  upright  form  of  the 
victim.  Though  wounded  in  many  places,  no  vital 
spot  had  been  touched,  nor  did  he  fall  until  the  sergeant, 
at  a  sign  from  his  officer,  advanced  with  a  reserved 
musket,  and  quickly  blew  out  his  brains  !  His  body 
was  removed.  The  troops  were  formed  into  column, 
the  band  struck  up  a  lively  air,  and  thus  was  a  human 
being  launched  into  eternity. 


174 


DUE  SOUTH. 


Few  current  matters  strike  the  stranger  as  being 
more  peculiar  than  the  Cuban  milkman's  mode  of 
supplying  the  required  aliment  to  his  town  customers. 
He  has  no  cart  bearing  shhnng  cans,  they  in  turn 
filled  with  milk,  or  with  what  purports  to  be  milk ; 
his  mode  is  direct,  and  admits  of  no  question  as  to 
purity.  Driving  his  sober  kine  from  door  to  door, 
he  deliberately  milks  then  and  there  just  the  quantity 
required  by  eacli  customer,  delivers  it,  and  drives  on 
to  the  next.  The  patient  animal  becomes  as  famil- 
iar with  the  residences  of  her  master's  customers  as 
he  is  himself,  and  stops  unbidden,  at  regular  intervals, 
before  the  proper  doors,  often  followed  by  a  pretty 
little  calf,  which  amuses  itself  by  gazing  enviously 
at  the  process,  being  prevented  from  interfering  by 
a  leather  muzzle.  Sometimes  the  flow  of  milk  is 
checked  by  an  effort  of  the  animal  herself,  when  she 
seems  to  realize  that  the  calf  is  not  getting  its  share 
of  nourishment.  The  driver  then  promptly  brings  the 
calf  to  the  mother's  side,  and  removes  the  muzzle  long 
enough  to  give  the  little  one  a  brief  chance.  The 
cow  freely  yields  her  milk  while  the  calf  is  close  to 
her,  and  the  milkman,  muzzling  the  calf,  adroitly 
milks  into  his  measure.  The  same  mode  is  adopted 
in  India  and  the  south  of  Spain.  There  are  at  least 
two  good  reasons  for  delivering  milk  in  hot  climates 
after  this  fashion.  First,  there  can  be  no  adulteration 
of  the  article ;  and  second,  it  is  sure  to  be  fresh  and 
sweet.  This  last  is  a  special  desideratum  in  a  climate 
w4iere  ice  is  an  expensive  luxury,  and  the  difficulty  of 
keeping  milk  from  becoming  acid  is  very  great.  The 
effect  upon  the  cow  is  by  no  means  salutary,  causing 
the  animal  to  produce  much  less  in  quantity  than 
when  milked  clean  at  regularly  fixed  hours,  as  with 


EXPOSURE  OF  DOMESTIC  LIFE. 


175 


us.  Goats  are  often  driven  about  for  the  same  pur- 
pose and  used  in  the  same  manner.  It  was  a  surprise 
not  to  see  more  of  these  animals  in  Cuba,  a  country 
especially  adapted  to  them.  Cows  thrive  best  upon 
grass,  of  which  there  is  comparatively  little  in  the 
tropics,  —  vegetation  runs  to  larger  development ;  but 
goats  eat  anything  green,  and  do  well  nearly  any- 
where. It  is  a  singular  fact  that  sheep  transported 
to  this  climate  cease  gradually  to  produce  wool.  After 
three  or  four  generations  they  grow  only  a  simple 
covering,  more  like  hair  than  wool,  and  resemble 
goats  rather  than  sheep. 

Glass  is  scarcely  known  in  Cuban  windows ;  the 
glazier  has  yet  to  make  his  debut  in  Havana.  The 
most  pretentious  as  well  as  the  humblest  of  the  town- 
houses  have  the  broad,  high,  projecting  window,  reach- 
ing from  floor  to  ceiling,  secured  only  by  heavy  hori- 
zontal iron  bars,  prison-like  in  effect,  through  which, 
as  one  passes  along  the  narrow  streets,  it  is  nearly 
impossible  to  avoid  glancing  in  upon  domestic  scenes 
that  frequently  exhibit  the  female  portion  of  the  fam- 
ily en  deshabille.  Sometimes  a  loose  lace  curtain 
intervenes,  but  even  this  is  unusual,  the  freest  circu- 
lation of  fresh  air  being  quite  necessary.  The  eye 
penetrates  the  whole  interior  of  domestic  life,  as  at 
Yokohama  or  Tokio.  Indeed,  the  manners  of  the 
female  occupants  seem  to  court  this  attention  from 
without,  coming  freely  as  they  do  to  the  windows  to 
chat  with  passers-by.  Once  inside  of  these  dwelling- 
houses  there  are  no  doors,  curtains  alone  shutting  off 
the  communication  between  chambers,  sitting-rooms, 
and  corridors.  These  curtains,  when  not  looped  up, 
are  sufficient  to  keep  out  persons  of  the  household 
or  strangers,  it  being  the  custom  always  to  speak,  in 


176 


DUE  SOUTH. 


place  of  knocking,  before  passing  a  curtain  ;  but  the 
little  naked  negro  children,  male  and  female,  creep 
under  these  curtains  without  restraint,  while  parrots, 
pigeons,  and  fowls  generally  make  common  use  of 
all  nooks  and  corners  of  the  house.  Doors  might 
keep  these  out  of  one's  room,  but  curtains  do  not. 
The  division  walls  between  the  apartments  in  private 
houses,  like  those  in  the  hotels,  often  reach  but  two 
thirds  of  the  way  up  to  the  walls,  thus  affording  free 
circulation  of  air,  but  rendering  privacy  impossible. 
One  reason  why  the  Cubans  all  possess  such  broad 
expanded  chests  is  doubtless  owing  to  the  fact  that 
their  lungs  find  free  action  at  all  times.  They  live, 
as  it  were,  in  the  open  air.  The  effect  of  this  upon 
strangers  is  seen  and  felt,  producing  a  sense  of  physi- 
cal exhilaration,  fine  spirits,  and  a  good  appetite.  It 
would  be  impossible  to  live  in  a  dwelling-house  built 
in  our  close,  secure  style,  if  it  were  placed  in  the  city 
of  Havana.  The  laundress  takes  possession  of  the 
roof  of  the  house  during  the  day,  but  it  is  the  place 
of  social  gathering  at  night,  when  the  family  and 
their  guests  enjoy  the  sea-breeze  which  sweeps  in 
from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  On  a  clear,  bright  moon- 
light night  the  effect  is  very  striking  as  one  looks 
across  the  house-tops,  nearly  all  being  upon  a  level. 
Many  cheerful  circles  are  gathered  here  and  there, 
some  dancing  to  the  notes  of  a  guitar,  some  singing, 
and  others  engaged  in  quiet  games.  Merry  peals  of 
laughter  come  from  one  direction  and  another,  telling 
of  light  and  thoughtless  hearts  among  the  family 
groups.  Occasionally  there  is  borne  along  the  range 
of  roofs  the  swelling  but  distant  strains  of  the  mili- 
tary band  playing  in  the  Plaza  de  Isabella,  while  the 
moon  looks  calmly  down  from  a  sky  whose  intensely 
blue  vault  is  only  broken  by  stars. 


A  FUNERAL  CORTEGE. 


177 


The  cemetery,  or  Campo  Santo,  of  Havana  is  situ- 
ated about  three  miles  outside  of  the  city.  A  high 
wall  incloses  the  grounds,  in  which  oven-like  niches 
are  prepared  for  the  reception  of  the  coflfins  contain^ 
ing  the  bodies  of  the  wealthy  residents,  while  the 
poor  are  thrown  into  shallow  graves,  often  several 
bodies  togetlier  in  a  long  trench,  negroes  and  whites, 
without  a  coffin  of  any  sort.  Upon  them  is  thrown 
quicklime  to  promote  rapid  decomposition.  The 
cremation  which  forms  the  mode  of  disposing  of  the 
bodies  of  the  deceased  as  practiced  in  India  is  far 
less  objectionable. 

The  funeral  cortege  is  unique  in  Havana.  The 
hearse,  drawn  by  four  black  horses,  is  gilded  and 
decked  like  a  car  of  Juggernaut,  and  driven  by  a 
flunkey  in  a  cocked  hat  covered  with  gold  braid,  a 
scarlet  coat  alive  with  brass  buttons  and  gilt  orna- 
ments, and  top  boots  which,  as  he  sits,  reach  half-way 
to  his  chin.  This  individual  flourishes  a  whip  like  a 
fishing-pole,  and  is  evidently  very  proud  of  his  posi- 
tion. Beside  the  hearse  walk  six  hired  mourners  on 
either  side,  dressed  in  black,  with  cocked  hats  and 
swallow-tail  coats.  Fifteen  or  twenty  victorias  fol- 
low, containing  only  male  mourners.  The  driver  in 
scarlet,  the  tvv^elve  swallow-tails  in  black,  and  the 
occupants  of  the  victorias  each  and  all  are  smoking 
cigars  as  though  their  lives  depended  upon  the  suc- 
cessful operation.  And  so  the  cortege  files  into  the 
Campo  Santo. 

Not  far  from  La  Punta  there  is  a  structure,  pro- 
tected from  the  public  gaze  by  a  high  wall,  where  the 
slaves  of  either  sex  belonging  to  the  citizens  of  Ha- 
vana are  brought  for  punishment.  Within  are  a  se- 
ries of  whipping-posts,  to  which  these  poor  creatures 
12 


178 


DUE  SOUTH. 


are  bound  before  applying  the  lash  to  their  bare  bod- 
ies. The  sight  of  this  fiendish  procedure  is  cut  off 
from  the  public,  but  more  than  one  person  has  told 
us  of  having  heard  the  agonizing  cries  of  the  victims. 
And  yet  there  are  people  who  will  tell  us  these  poor 
creatures  are  far  better  off  than  when  in  their  native 
country.  One  slave-owner  said  it  was  necessary  to 
make  an  example  of  some  member  of  all  large  house- 
holds of  slaves  each  month,  in  order  to  keep  them 
under  discipline  !  Another  said,  "  I  never  whip  my 
slaves  ;  it  may  be  necessary  upon  a  plantation,  but 
not  in  domestic  circles  in  town.  When  they  have  in- 
curred my  displeasure,  they  are  deprived  of  some 
small  creature  comfort,  or  denied  certain  liberties, 
wliich  punishment  seems  to  answer  every  object."  So 
it  will  be  seen  that  all  slave-holders  are  not  cruel. 
Some  seem  as  judicious  and  reasonable  as  is  possible 
under  the  miserable  system  of  slaver}^ 

Opposite  the  Indian  Paseo,  General  Tacon,  during 
his  governorship  of  the  island,  constructed  a  broad 
camp-ground  for  military  parades  in  what  is  now 
becoming  the  heart  of  the  city,  though  outside  the 
limits  of  the  old  city  walls.  He  called  it  the  Campo 
de  Marte,  and  surrounded  the  whole  space,  ten  acres, 
more  or  less,  with  a  high  ornamental  iron  fence.  It 
is  in  form  a  perfect  square,  and  on  each  of  the  four 
sides  was  placed  a  broad,  pretentious  gateway,  flanked 
by  heavy  square  pillars.  That  on  the  west  side  he 
named  Puerta  de  Colon  ;  on  the  north,  Puerta  de 
Cortes;  on  the  south,  Puerta  de  Pizarro;  and  on  the 
east  side,  facing  the  city,  he  gave  the  gate  the  name 
of  Puerta  de  Tacon.  His  administration  has  been 
more  praised  and  more  censured  than  that  of  any  of 
his  predecessors  since  the  days  of  Velasquez.  This 


HOTEL  TELEGRAFO. 


179 


Campo  de  Marte,  which,  as  stated,  was  originally  in- 
tended for  military  purposes  generally,  is  now  con- 
verted into  a  public  park,  laid  out  with  spacious 
walks,  fountains,  handsome  trees,  and  carriage-ways. 
The  gates  have  been  removed,  and  the  whole  place 
thrown  open  as  a  thoroughfare  and  pleasure-ground. 

Speaking  of  this  open  square  brings  us  to  the  sub- 
ject of  hotels  in  Havana,  nnd  as  we  have  so  often 
been  questioned  upon  this  subject,  doubtless  a  few 
words  upon  the  matter  will  interest  the  general  read- 
er. We  made  our  temporary  home  for  nearly  a  month 
at  the  Hotel  Telegrafo,  but  why  it  is  so  called  we  do 
not  know.  It  is  considered  to  be  one  of  the  best  in 
the  city,  and  is  centrally  situated,  being  opposite  to 
the  Campo  de  Marte.  There  was  a  chief  clerk  who 
spoke  English,  and  another  who  spoke  French,  and 
two  guides  who  possessed  the  same  facilities.  The 
price  of  board  was  from  four  to  five  dollars  per  day, 
including  meals  and  service.  The  rooms  were  very 
small,  table  fair,  plenty  of  fruits  and  preserves,  but 
the  meats  were  poor.  Fish  was  always  fresh  and  good 
in  Havana.  Coffee  and  tea  were  poor.  If  one  desires 
to  procure  good  coffee,  as  a  rule,  look  for  it  anywhere 
rather  than  in  countries  where  it  is  grown.  Clean- 
liness was  not  considered  as  being  an  indispensable 
virtue  in  the  Telegrafo.  Drainage  received  but  little 
attention,  and  the  domestic  offices  of  the  house  were 
seriously  offensive.  The  yellow  fever  does  not  pre- 
vail in  Havana  except  in  summer,  say  from  May 
to  October ;  but  according  to  recognized  sanitary 
rules  it  should  rage  there  every  month  in  the  year. 
The  hotels  in  peninsular  Spain  are  dirty  enough  to 
disgust  any  one,  but  those  of  Havana  are  a  degree 
worse  in  this  respect.    Any  of  our  readers  who  have 


180 


DUE  SOUTH, 


chanced  in  their  travels  npon  the  Fonda  de  Rafaela, 
for  instance,  at  Burgos,  in  Spain,  will  understand  us 
fully.  It  was  of  no  use  to  remove  elsewhere  ;  after 
examining  the  other  hotels  it  was  thought  best  to  re- 
main at  the  Telegrafo,  on  the  principle  adopted  by 
the  Irishman,  who,  though  not  inclined  to  believe  in 
Purgatory,  yet  accepted  this  item  of  faith  lest  he 
should  go  further  and  fare  worse.  There  is  the  San 
Carlos  Hotel,  near  the  wharves,  which  is  more  of 
a  family  than  a  travelers'  resort ;  the  Hotel  Pasaje, 
in  Prado  Street,  quite  central ;  Hotel  Europe,  in 
La  Plaza  de  San  Francisco ;  and  Hotels  Central  and 
Ingleterra :  the  last  two  are  opposite  the  Plaza  de 
Isabella,  and  are  in  the  midst  of  noise  and  gayety. 
Arrangements  can  be  made  at  any  of  these  houses 
for  board  by  the  day,  or  on  the  European  plan ;  all 
have  restaurants. 

There  are  some  very  attractive  summer  resorts  in 
the  environs  of  the  city,  one  of  the  nearest  and  pret- 
tiest of  which  is  El  Cerro  (the  hill),  one  league  from 
town.  It  has  a  number  of  remarkably  pleasant 
country-seats,  some  of  which  have  extensive  gardens, 
rivaling  that  of  the  Captain- General  in  extent.  But 
to  reach  Cerro  one  has  to  drive  over  a  road  which  is 
in  such  want  of  repair  as  to  be  dangerous,  gullied  by 
the  rains,  and  exhibiting  holes  two  feet  deep,  liable 
to  break  the  horses'  legs  and  the  wheels  of  the  vehi- 
cles. Here  is  a  road,  close  to  Havana,  with  stones 
weighing  hundreds  of  pounds  on  the  surface,  in  the 
very  wheel-tracks.  Handsome  hedges  of  the  wild 
pine,  the  aloe,  and  the  Spanish  bayonet  line  the  road, 
where  an  occasional  royal  palm,  the  emblem  of  maj- 
esty, stands  alone,  adding  grandeur  to  all  the  sur- 
roundings.   If  you  drive  out  to  Cerro,  put  on  a  linen 


ENVIRONS  OF  THE  CITY, 


181 


duster;  otherwise  you  will  be  likely  to  come  back 
looking  like  a  miller's  apprentice.  Not  far  beyond 
Cerro  there  lies  some  beautiful  country,  reached  by 
the  same  miserable  road.  Puentes  Grandes.  a  small 
village  n(^ar  the  falls  of  the  Almendares  River,  is  but 
two  miles  further  north  than  Cerro,  and  adjoining 
this  place,  a  couple  of  miles  further,  is  a  small,  pic- 
turesque village  called  Ceiba,  from  the  abundance 
of  that  species  of  tree  which  once  flourished  there. 
These  two  places  have  some  interesting  country  resi- 
dences, where  the  wealthiest  citizens  of  Havana  spend 
their  summers.  The  village  of  Quemados  is  also 
in  this  immediate  neigliborhood,  about  a  couple  of 
leagues  from  town ;  here  is  situated  the  Havana  Hip- 
podrome, where  horse-races  take  place  in  the  winter 
season.  We  must  not  forget  to  mention  Vedado,  on 
the  seashore,  whither  the  Havanese  drive  oftenest 
on  Sundays ;  it  is  also  connected  wath  the  city  by 
steam-cars  and  omnibus.  There  are  some  fine  villas 
here,  and  it  is  quite  a  Cuban  watering-place,  affording 
excellent  bathing  facilities.  Vedado  has  wide  streets, 
and,  after  the  city,. seems  to  be  remarkably  clean  and 
neat. 

The  Bishop's  Garden,  so  called  because  some  half 
century  since  it  was  the  residence  of  the  Bishop  of 
Havana,  is  about  four  miles  from  the  city,  on  the 
line  of  the  Marianao  railroad.  It  must  have  been  a 
delightful  place  when  in  its  prime  and  properly  cared 
for  ;  even  now,  in  its  ruins,  it  is  extremely  interesting. 
There  are  a  score,  more  or  less,  of  broken,  moss-grown 
statues,  stone  balustrades,  and  stone  capitals  lying 
among  the  luxuriant  vegetation,  indicating  what  was 
once  here.  Its  alleys  of  palms,  over  two  hundred 
years  in  age,  the  thrifty  almond-trees,  and  the  gaudy- 


182 


DUE  SOUTH. 


colored  pmons,  with  tbeir  honeysuckle-like  bloom, 
delight  the  eye.  The  flamboyant  absolutely  blazed 
in  its  gorgeous  flowers,  like  ruddy  flames,  all  over  the 
grounds.  The  remarkable  fan-palm  spread  out  its 
branches  like  a  peacock's  tail,  screening  vistas  here 
and  there.  Through  these  grounds  flows  a  small 
swift  stream,  which  has  its  rise  in  the  mountains 
some  miles  inland,  its  bright  and  sparkling  waters 
imparting  an  added  beauty  to  the  place.  By  simple 
irrigating  means  this  stream  is  made  to  fertilize  a 
considerable  tract  of  hmd  used  as  vegetable  gardens, 
lying  between  Tulipan  and  Havana.  The  Bishop's 
Garden  still  contains  large  stone  basins  for  swimming 
purposes,  cascades,  fountains,  and  miniature  lakes, 
all  rendered  possible  by  means  of  this  small,  clear, 
deep  river.  The  neglected  place  is  sadly  suggestive 
of  decay,  with  its  moss-covered  paths,  tangled  under- 
growth, and  untrimmed  foliage.  Nothing,  however, 
can  mar  the  glory  of  the  grand  immemorial  palms. 

The  town  of  Tulipan,.  in  which  is  the  Bishop's 
Garden,  is  formed  of  neat  and  pleasant  residences  of 
citizens  desiring  to  escape  the  bustle  and  closeness  of 
the  city.  The  houses  are  half  European  or  American 
in  their  architecture,  modified  to  suit  the  climate. 
Here  the  American  Consul-General  has  a  delightfully 
chosen  home,  surrounded  by  pleasant  shade,  and 
cbjiracterized  by  loftj^,  cool  apartments  ;  with  bright, 
snowy  marble  floors,  plenty  of  space,  and  perfect 
ventilation.  Mr.  Williams  is  a  gentleman  unusually 
well  fitted  for  the  responsible  position  he  fills,  having 
been  a  resident  of  Cuba  for  many  years,  and  speak- 
ing the  language  like  a  native.  In  his  intensely 
patriotic  sentiments  he  is  a  typical  American.  It  is 
not  out  of  place  for  us  to  acknowledge  here  our  in- 


MINERAL  SPRINGS. 


183 


debtedness  to  him  for  much  important  information 
relating  to  the  island. 

The  most  celebrated  mineral  springs  in  Caba  are 
to  be  found  at  San  Diego,  where  there  are  hot 
sulphur  waters,  springs  bubbling  ceaselessly  from  the 
earth,  and  for  which  great  virtues  are  claimed. 
The  springs  are  situated  west  of  Havana,  between 
thirty  and  forty  leagues,  at  the  base  of  the  southern 
slope  of  the  mountains.  These  waters  are  freely 
drank,  as  well  as  bathed  in,  and  are  highly  charged 
with  sulphureted  hydrogen,  and  contain  sulphate  of 
lime  and  carbonate  of  magnesia.  There  are  some 
diseases  of  women  for  which  the  San  Diego  waters 
are  considered  to  be  a  specific,  and  remarkable  cures 
are  authenticated.  Rheumatism  and  skin  diseases 
are  specially  treated  by  the  local  physician.  There 
is  a  very  fair  hotel  at  San  Diego,  located  near  the 
baths,  and  many  Americans  speak  warmly  in  praise 
of  the  place  as  a  health  resort. 

Next  to  the  springs  of  San  Diego,  those  of  Ma- 
druga  are  notable,  situated  between  Matanzas  and 
Havana,  and  whi(  h  can  be  reached  by  rail.  The 
character  of  these  springs  is  very  similar  to  those  of 
San  Diego,  though  of  lower  temperature.  They  are 
used  both  for  bathing  and  for  drinking.  Madruga  is 
more  easily  accessible  from  the  metropolis  than  is 
San  Diego.  There  is  also  a  good  physician  resident 
in  the  village. 


CHAPTER  X. 


The  Fish-Market  of  Havana.  •—  The  Dying  Dolphin.  —  Tax  upon  the 
Trade.  —  Extraordinary  Monopoly.  —  Harbor  Boats.  —  A  Story 
about  Marti,  the  Ex-Smuggler.  —  King  of  the  Isle  of  Pines.  —  The 
Offered  Reward.  —  Sentinels  in  the  Plaza  de  Armas.  —  The  Gov- 
ernor General  and  the  Intruder.  —  "  I  am  Captain  Marti ! —  The 
Betrayal.  —  The  Ex-Smuggler  as  Pilot.  —  The  Pardon  and  the 
Reward.  —  Tacon's  Stewardship  and  Official  Career.  —  Monopoly 
of  Theatricals.  — A  Negro  Festival. 

The  fish-market  of  Havana  doubtless  affords  the 
best  variety  and  quality  of  this  article  to  be  found 
in  any  city  of  the  world,  not  even  excepting  Madras 
and  Bombay,  where  the  Indian  Ocean  and  the  Bay  of 
Bengal  enter  into  rivalry  with  each  other  as  to  their 
products.  The  scientist  Poey  gives  a  list  of  six  hun- 
dred species  of  fishes  indigenous  to  the  shores  of 
Cuba.  The  supply  of  the  city  is  not  only  procured 
from  the  neighboring  waters,  but  fishermen  come 
regularly  a  distance  of  over  a  hundred  miles  to  the 
ports  of  the  island,  from  Florida  and  Yucatan,  with 
their  small  cutters  well  loaded.  It  was  through  the 
means  afforded  by  these  fishing  crafts  that  commu- 
nication was  kept  up  between  the  Cuban  patriots  at 
Key  West  and  their  friends  on  the  island,  and  no 
doubt  smuggling  was  also  carried  on  by  them,  until 
they  came  under  the  strict  surveillance  of  the  reve- 
nue officers. 

The  long  marble  counter  of  the  Marti  fish-market, 
at  the  end  of  Mercaderes  Street,  affords  a  display  of 
the  finny  tribe  which  we  have  never  seen  equaled 


THE  DYING  DOLPHIN, 


185 


elsewhere.  Every  hue  and  combination  of  iris  col- 
ors is  represented,  while  the  variety  and  oddity  of 
shapes  is  ludicrous.  Even  fishing  on  the  coast  and 
the  sale  of  the  article  are  virtually  government  monop- 
olies ;  indeed,  everything  is  taxed  and  double  taxed 
in  Cuba;  the  air  one  breathes  would  be,  could  it  be 
measured.  Fish  are  brought  into  this  market,  as  at 
many  other  tropical  ports,  alive,  being  preserved  in 
wells  of  salt  water  which  also  act  as  ballast  for  the 
fishing  vessels.  One  morning,  among  others  brought 
to  the  Marti  market  a  dolphin  was  observed,  but  as 
it  is  not  a  fish  much  used  for  the  table  why  it  came 
hither  was  not  so  clear  to  us.  Being  curious  as  to 
the  accuracy  of  the  poetical  simile  of  changing  colors 
which  characterize  its  dying  hours,  the  just  landed 
dolphin  was  closely  watched.  The  varying  and  mul- 
tiform hues  were  clearly  exhibited  by  the  expiring 
fish.  First  its  skin  presented  a  golden  shade,  as  if 
reflecting  the  sun,  this  changing  gradually  into  a 
light  purple.  Presently  the  body  became  silvery 
white,  followed  slowly  by  alternating  hues  of  pearl 
and  yellow,  and  finally  death  left  it  of  a  dull,  lustre- 
less gray. 

The  market  is  about  two  hundred  feet  long,  with 
one  broad  marble  table  extending  from  end  to  end. 
The  roof  is  supported  by  a  series  of  arches  resting 
upon  pillars.  One  side  is  entirely  open  to  the  street, 
thus  insuring  good  ventilation.  It  is  not  far  from 
the  cathedral,  and  in  the  vicinity  of  the  shore,  but  is 
in  some  measure  superseded  by  the  large  central  Mer- 
cado  de  Tacon  in  the  Calzada  de  la  Reina,  one  block 
from  the  Campo  de  Marte.  In  this  latter  market 
we  saw  shark's  flesh  sold  for  food  and  freely  bought 
by  the  negroes  and  Chinese  coolies. 


186 


DUE  SOUTH. 


The  monopoly  granted  in  Tacon's  time  to  the  fa- 
mous smuggler  whose  name  the  fish-market  on  Mer- 
caderes  Street  still  bears  has  reverted  to  the  govern- 
ment, which  requires  every  fisherman,  like  every 
cab  driver,  to  pay  a  heavy  tax  for  the  privilege  of 
following  his  calling.  The  boatman  who  pulls  an 
oar  in  the  harbor  for  hire  is  obliged  to  pay  the 
government  for  the  simple  privilege.  A  waiter  in  a 
popular  magazine  lately  compared  these  harbor  boats 
of  Havana  to  Venetian  gondolas,  but  even  poetical 
license  will  not  admit  of  this.  They  do,  however, 
almost  precisely  resemble  the  thousand  and  one  boats 
which  besprinkle  the  Pearl  River  at  Canton,  being  of 
the  same  shape,  and  covered  in  the  stern  by  a  simi- 
lar arched  frame  and  canvas,  the  Chinese  substitut- 
ing for  this  latter  the  universal  matting.  The  Ha- 
vana boatmen  have  so  long  suffered  from  the  extortion 
of  the  Spanish  officials  that  they  have  learned  the 
trick  of  it,  and  practice  the  same  upon  travelers  who 
make  no  bargain  with  them  before  entering  their 
tiny  vessels. 

The  fish  monopoly  referred  to  was  established 
under  the  governorship  of  Tacon,  and  is  of  peculiar 
origin.  We  cannot  do  better,  perhaps,  by  way  of 
illustrating  his  arbitrary  rule,  than  to  relate  for  the 
reader's  benefit  the  story  of  its  inauguration  and  en- 
forcement. 

One  of  the  most  successful  rogues  whose  history 
is  connected  with  that  of  modern  Cuba  was  one  Marti, 
who  during  his  life  was  a  prominent  individual  upon 
a  limited  stage  of  action.  He  first  became  known  as 
a  notorious  and  successful  smuggler  on  the  coast  of 
the  island,  a  daring  and  reckless  leader  of  desperate 
men.    At  one  time  he  bore  the  pretentious  title  of 


KING  OF  THE  ISLE  OF  PINES, 


187 


King  of  the  Isle  of  Pines,  where  he  maintahied  a 
fortified  position,  more  secure  in  its  inaccessibility 
than  for  any  other  reason.  From  hence  Marti  dis- 
patched his  small  fleet  of  cutters  to  operate  between 
Kej^  West  and  the  southern  coast  of  Cuba,  sometimes 
extending  his  trips  to  Charleston,  Savannah,  and 
even  to  New  Orleans.  With  the  duty  at  ten  dollars 
a  barrel  on  American  flour  legitimately  imported 
into  the  island,  it  was  a  paying  business  to  smuggle 
even  that  prosaic  but  necessary  article  from  one  coun- 
try to  the  other,  and  to  transport  it  inland  for  con- 
sumption. By  this  business  Marti  is  said  to  have 
amassed  a  large  amount  of  money.  He  is  described 
as  having  been  a  tall,  dark  man  of  mixed  descent, 
Spanish,  Creole,  and  mulatto.  His  great  physical 
strength  and  brute  courage  are  supposed  to  have 
given  him  precedence  among  his  associates,  added  to 
which  he  possessed  a  large  share  of  native  shrewd- 
ness, cunning,  and  business  tact.  His  masquerading 
capacity,  if  we  may  believe  the  current  stories  told  of 
]iim,  was  very  remarkable,  enabling  him  to  assume 
almost  any  disguise  and  to  effectually  carry  it  out,  so 
as  to  go  safely  among  his  enemies  or  the  government 
officials  and  gain  whatever  intelligence  he  desired. 
Little  authentic  information  cmu  be  had  of  such  a 
man,  and  one  depends  upon  common  report  only  in 
making  up  a  sketch  of  his  career ;  but  he  is  known  to 
have  been  one  of  the  last  of  the  Caribbean  rovers, 
finally  turning  his  attention  to  smuggling  as  being 
both  the  safer  and  more  profitable  occupation.  The 
southern  coast  of  Cuba  is  so  formed  ns  to  be  pecul- 
iarly adapted  to  the  business  of  the  contrabandists, 
who  even  to-day  carry  on  this  adventurous  game  wiili 
more  or  less  impunity,  being  stimulated  by  the  ex- 


188 


DUE  SOUTH. 


cesslve  and  unreasonable  excise  duties  imposed  upon 
the  necessities  of  life. 

When  Tacon  first  arrived  in  the  colony  lie  found 
the  revenue  laws  in  a  very  lax  condition.  Smug- 
gling was  connived  at  by  the  venal  authorities,  and 
the  laws,  which  were  so  stringent  in  the  letter,  were 
practically  null  and  void.  It  is  said  that  Marti  could 
land  a  contraband  cargo,  at  that  time,  on  the  Regla 
side  of  Havana  harbor  in  broad  davli^xht  without  fear 
of  niolestation.  The  internal  affairs  of  the  island  were 
also  in  a  most  confused  condition ;  assassinations  even 
in  the  streets  of  Havana  were  frequent,  and  brigan- 
dage was  carried  on  in  the  near  environs  of  the  city. 
The  Governor  seemed  actuated  by  a  determination  to 
reform  these  outrages,  and  set  himself  seriously  about 
the  business.  He  found  that  the  Spanish  vessels  of 
the  navy  sent  hither  to  sustain  the  laws  lay  idly  in 
port,  the  ofl&cers  passing  their  time  in  search  of 
amusement  on  shore,  or  in  giving  balls  and  dances  on 
board  their  ships.  Tacon  saw  that  one  of  the  very 
first  moves  essential  to  be  made  was  to  suppress  the 
wholesale  system  of  smuggling  upon  the  coast.  The 
lieretofore  idle  navy  became  infused  with  life  and  was 
promptly  detailed  upon  this  service,  coasting  night 
and  day  along  the  shore  from  Cape  Antonio  to  the 
Point  of  Maysi,  but  to  little  or  no  good  effect,  A  few 
captures  were  made,  but  the  result  was  only  to  cause  a 
greater  degree  of  caution  on  the  part  of  the  contra- 
bandists. In  vain  were  all  the  measures  taken  by  the 
oflScials.  The  smuggling  was  as  successful  as  ever, 
and  the  law  was  completely  defied.  At  last,  finding 
that  his  expeditions  against  the  outlaws  failed,  partly 
from  their  adroitness  and  bravery  and  partly  from 
want  of  pilots  capable  of  guiding  attacking  parties 


THE  SMUGGLERS. 


189 


among  the  shoals  frequented  by  the  smugglers,  a 
large  and  tempting  reward  in  gold  was  offered  to  any 
one  of  them  who  would  desert  his  comrades  and  act  as 
pilot  to  the  King's  ships.  At  the  same  time  a  double 
reward  was  offered  for  the  person  of  Marti,  dead  or 
alive,  as  be  was  known  to  be  the  leader  of  the  desper- 
ate men  who  so  successfully  defied  the  authorities. 
These  offers  were  fully  promulgated,  and  care  was 
taken  that  tliose  who  were  most  interested  should  be 
made  aware  of  their  purport.  But  the  hoped-for  re- 
sult did  not  ensue.  There  was  either  too  much  honor 
among  the  guilty  characters  to  whom  the  bribe  was 
offered  to  permit  them  to  betray  each  other,  or  they 
feared  the  condign  punishment  which  was  the  portion 
of  all  traitors  among  them.  The  goyernment  had 
done  its  best,  but  had  failed  to  accomplish  its  object. 

It  was  a  dark,  cloudy  night  in  Havana,  some  three 
or  four  months  subsequent  to  the  offering  of  the  re- 
wards to  which  we  have  referred.  Two  sentinels 
were  pacing  back  and  forth  before  the  main  entrance 
of  the  Governor's  palace  which  forms  one  side  of  the 
area  inclosing  the  Plaza  de  Armas.  The  military 
band  had  performed  as  usual  that  evening  in  the 
Plaza  and  had  retired.  The  public,  after  enjoying  the 
music,  had  partaken  of  their  ices  and  favorite  drinks 
at  La  Domenica's  and  found  their  way  to  their  homes. 
The  square  was  now  very  quiet,  the  stillness  only 
broken  by  the  music  of  the  fountain  mingled  with  the 
tread  of  the  two  sentinels.  The  stars  looked  calmly 
down  from  between  the  rifts  of  hanging  clouds  which 
crowded  one  another  onward  as  though  bound  to  some 
important  rendezvous,  where  they  were  to  per- 
form their  part  in  a  pending  storm.  A  little  before 
midnight  a  tall  figure,  wrapped  in  a  half  military 


190 


DUE  SOUTH. 


cloak,  might  have  been  observed  watching  the  two 
guards  from  behind  the  marble  statue  of  Ferdinand. 
After  observing  that  they  paced  their  apportioned 
walk,  meeting  each  other  face  to  face,  and  then  sepa- 
rated, leaving  a  brief  moment  when  the  eyes  of  both 
were  turned  away  from  the  entrance  they  were  placed 
to  ofuard,  the  strano^er  seemed  to  calculate  the  chances 
of  passing  them  without  being  discovered.  It  was  an 
exceedingly  delicate  manoeuvre,  requiring  great  care 
and  dexterity.  Watching  for  the  favorable  moment 
tlie  purpose  was,  however,  accomplished;  the  tall  man 
in  the  cloak  at  a  bound  passed  within  the  portal  and 
quickly  secreted  himself  in  the  shadows  of  the  inner 
court.    The  sentinels  paced  on  undisturbed. 

The  individual  who  had  thus  stealthily  effected  an 
entrance  within  the  gates  of  the  palace  now  sought 
the  broad  marble  steps  which  led  to  the  Governor's 
business  suite  of  rooms,  with  a  confidence  that 
evinced  a  perfect  knowledge  of  the  place.  A  second 
sentinel  was  to  be  passed  at  the  head  of  the  stairs, 
but,  assuming  an  air  of  authority,  the  stranger  gave  a 
formal  military  salute  and  passed  quickly  forward  as 
though  there  was  not  the  least  question  as  to  his  right 
to  do  so.  The  drowsy  guard  promptly  presented 
arms,  doubtless  mistaking  him  for  some  regular  offi- 
cer of  the  Governor's  staff.  The  stranger  boldly  en- 
tered the  Governor's  reception-room  and  closed  the 
door  behind  him.  In  a  large  chair  sat  the  comman- 
der-in-chief before  a  broad  table,  engaged  in  writing, 
but  he  was  quite  alone.  An  expression  of  undis- 
guised satisfaction  passed  across  the  weather-beaten 
countenance  of  the  new-comer  at  this  state  of  affairs, 
as  he  coolly  cast  off  his  cloak,  tossed  it  carelessly  over 
his  arm,  and  proceeded  to  wipe  the  perspiration  from 


THE  MIDNIGHT  VISITOR, 


191 


his  face.  The  Governor,  looking  np  with  surprise  and 
fixing  his  keen  eyes  upon  the  intruder,  asked  peremp- 
torily :  — 

Who  enters  here  unannounced  and  at  this  hour  ?  " 

"  One  who  has  important  information  to  impart  to 
the  government,"  was  the  quiet  reply. 

But  why  seek  this  manner  of  audience  ?  " 

"  For  reasons,  Excellency,  that  will  soon  appear." 

"  How  did  you  pass  the  guard  unchallenged  ?  " 

"  Do  not  mind  that  for  the  present,  Excellency." 

"  But  I  do  mind  it  very  seriously." 
It  can  be  explained  by  and  by." 

"Very  well,"  said  the  Governor,  ''speak  quickly 
then.    What  is  your  business  here  ?  " 

Excellency,  you  have  publicly  offered  a  handsome 
reward  for  any  information  concerning  the  contraban- 
dists," continued  the  stranger.    ''  Is  it  not  so  ?  " 

''Ha!"  said  the  Governor,  "is  that  your  errand 
here?  What  have  you  to  say  about  those  outlaws? 
Speak,  speak  quickly." 

"  Excellency,  I  must  do  so  with  caution,"  said  the 
stranger,  "  otherwise  I  may  condemn  myself  by  what 
I  have  to  communicate." 

"  Not  so,"  interrupted  Tacon,  "  the  offer  "  — 

"  I  know.  Excellency,  a  free  pardon  is  promised  to 
him  who  shall  turn  state's  evidence,  but  there  may  be 
circumstances  "  — 

"  The  offer  is  unconditional,  as  it  regards  pardon." 

"  True,  but  "— 

"  I  say  you  have  naught  to  fear,"  continued  Tacon  ; 
"  the  offered  rew^ard  involves  unconditional  pardon  to 
the  informant." 

"  You  offer  an  additional  reward,  Excellency,  for 
the  discovery  of  the  leader  of  the  contrabandists,  Cap- 
tain Marti." 


192 


DUE  SOUTH. 


''Ayr 

"  It  is  a  full  revelation  I  have  come  hither  to 
make." 

''Speak,  then." 

"  First,  Excellency,  will  you  give  me  your  knightly 
word  that  you  will  grant  a  free  pardon  to  me,  a 
personal  pardon,  if  I  reveal  all  that  you  require  ?  " 

"I  pledge  you  my  word  of  honor,"  replied  the 
Governor. 

"No  matter  how  heinous  in  the  eyes  of  the  law 
my  offenses  may  have  been,  still  you  will  pardon  me 
under  the  King's  seal  ?  " 

"Why  all  this  reiteration?"  asked  Tacon  impa- 
tiently. 

"  Excellency,  it  is  necessary,"  was  the  reply. 

"  I  will  do  so,  if  you  reveal  truly  and  to  any  good 
purpose,"  answered  the  Governor,  weigliing  care- 
fully in  his  mind  the  purpose  of  all  this  precaution. 

"Even  if  I  were  a  leader  among  these  men?" 

The  Governor  hesitated  but  for  a  single  moment, 
while  he  gave  the  man  before  him  a  searching  glance, 
then  said :  — 

"Even  then,  be  joii  whom  you  may,  if  you  are 
able  and  willing  to  pilot  our  ships  and  reveal  the 
rendezvous  of  Marti  and  his  followers,  you  shall  be 
rewarded  and  pardoned  according  to  the  published 
card." 

"  Excellency,  I  think  that  I  know  your  character 
well  enough  to  fully  trust  these  words,  else  I  should 
not  have  ventured  here." 

"  Speak,  then,  and  without  further  delay.  My  time 
is  precious,"  continued  the  Governor  with  manifest 
impatience,  and  half  rising  from  his  seat. 

"  It  is  well.    I  will  speak  without  further  parley 


CAPTAIN  MARTI. 


193 


The  man  for  whom  yoii  have  offered  the  largest  re- 
ward—  ay,  dead  or  alive  —  is  before  you  !  " 
And  you  are  "  — 
"Captain  Marti!" 

Tacon  had  not  expected  this,  but  supposed  himself 
talking  to  some  lieutenant  of  the  famous  outlaw,  and 
though  no  coward  he  instinctively  cast  his  eyes  t(ir 
wards  a  brace  of  pistols  that  lay  within  reach  of  his 
,right  hand.  This  was  but  for  a  moment;  yet  the 
motion  was  not  unobserved  by  his  visitor,  who,  step- 
ping forward,  drew  a  couple  of  similar  weapons  from 
his  own  person  and  laid  them  quietly  on  the  table, 
saying :  — 

I  have  no  further  use  for  these  :  it  is  to  be  diplo- 
macy for  the  future,  not  fighting." 

"  That  is  well,"  responded  the  Governor  ;  and  after 
a  few  moments  of  thought  he  continued:  ''I  shall 
keep  my  promise,  be  assured  of  that,  provided  you 
faithfully  perform  your  part,  notwithstanding  the 
law  demands  your  immediate  punishment.  For  good 
reasons,  as  well  as  to  secure  your  faithfulness,  you 
must  remain  under  guard,"  he  added. 

"  I  have  anticipated  that,  and  am  prepared,"  was 
the  reply. 

We  understand  each  other  then." 

Saying  which  he  rang  a  small  silver  bell  by  his 
side,  and  issued  a  verbal  order  to  the  attendant  who 
responded.  In  a  few  moments  after,  the  officer  of 
the  watch  entered,  and  Marti  was  placed  in  confine- 
ment, with  directions  to  render  him  as  comfortable  as 
possible  under  the  circumstances.  His  name  was 
withheld  from  the  officers. 

Left  alone,  the  Governor  mused  for  a  few  moments 
thoughtfully  over  the  scene  which  we  have  described, 

13 


194 


DUE  SOUT/I. 


then,  summoning  the  officer  of  the  guard,  demande(3 
that  the  three  sentinels  on  duty  should  be  relieved 
and  brought  at  once  before  him.  What  transpired 
between  them  was  not  made  public,  but  it  Avas  known 
on  the  following  day  that  they  had  been  condemned 
to  the  chain-gang  for  a  whole  month.  Military  law 
is  rigid. 

On  the  subsequent  day,  one  of  the  light-draught 
corvettes  which  lay  under  the  guns  of  Moro  Castle 
suddenly  became  the  scene  of  the  utmost  activity, 
and  before  noon  had  weighed  anchor  and  w^as  stand- 
ing out  of  the  harbor.  Captain  Marti  was  on  board 
acting  as  pilot,  and  faithfully  did  he  guide  the  gov- 
ernment ship  in  tlie  discharge  of  her  errand  among 
the  bays  and  shoals  of  the  southern  coast.  For  more 
than  a  month  he  was  engaged  in  this  piloting  to  all 
the  secret  haunts  and  storage  places  of  the  contra- 
bandists, but  it  was  observed  that  very  few  stores 
were  found  in  them  !  On  this  famous  expedition  one 
or  two  small  vessels  were  taken  and  destroyed  in  the 
bays  of  the  Isle  of  Pines,  but  not  one  of  the  smug- 
glers was  captured.  Information  of  the  approach  of 
the  would-be  captors  was  always  mysteriously  con- 
veyed to  them,  and  w^hen  a  rendezvous  was  reached 
the  occupants,  it  was  found,  had  fled  a  few  hours 
previously!  The  amount  of  property  secured  was 
very  small,  but  still  the  organization  which  had  so 
long  and  so  successfully  defied  the  government  was 
broken  up,  and  the  smugglers'  place  of  rendezvous 
became  known.  Marti  returned  with  the  ship  to 
claim  his  rev/ard.  Tacon  was  well  satisfied  with  the 
result  and  with  the  manner  in  which  the  ex-smuggler 
had  fulfilled  his  agreement.  The  officials  did  not 
look  ver}*  deeply  into  the  business,  and  they  believed 


MARTFS  PROPOSITION. 


195 


that  Marti  had  really  betrayed  his  former  comrades. 
The  Governor-General  summoned  him  to  his  presence 
and  said  to  Marti :  — 

As  you  have  faithfully  performed  your  part  of 
our  agreement,  I  am  prepared  to  fulfill  mine.  In  this 
package  you  will  find  a  free  and  unconditional  pardon 
for  all  your  past  offenses  against  the  law.  Mark  the 
^Yovd  past  offenses,"  reiterated  the  Governor.  ''Any 
new  disloyalty  on  your  part  shall  be  as  promptly  and 
rigorously  treated  as  though  these  late  services  had 
never  been  rendered.  And  here  is  an  order  upon  the 
treasury  for  the  sum  "  — 

''  Excellency,  excuse  me,"  said  the  pardoned  smug- 
gler, stepping  back,  and  holding  up  his  hand  in  sig- 
nificance of  declining  the  reward. 

"  What  does  this  mean  ?  "  asked  Tacon. 

"  Permit  me  to  explain.  Excellency." 

"  What,  more  conditions  ?  "  asked  the  Governor. 

"  The  pardon.  Excellency,  I  gladly  receive,"  con- 
tinued Marti.  ''  As  to  the  sum  of  money  you  propose 
to  give  me,  let  me  make  you  a  proposal." 

''  Speak  out.  Let  us  know  what  it  is." 
The  treasury  is  poor,"  said  the  ex-smuggler,  ''  I 
am  rich.  Retain  the  money,  and  in  place  of  it  guar- 
antee me  alone  the  right  to  fish  on  the  coast  of  Cuba, 
and  declare  the  business  of  supplying  the  people  with 
fish  contraband,  except  to  me  and  my  agents.  This 
will  amply  compensate  me,  and  I  will  erect  a  public 
market  at  my  own  expense,  which  shall  be  an  orna- 
ment to  the  city,  and  which  at  the  expiration  of 
twenty-five  years  shall  revert  to  the  government." 

"So  singular  a  proposition  requires  to  be  consid- 
ered," said  the  Governor. 

''In  the  mean  time  I  will  await  your  commands," 
said  Mai  ti,  preparing  to  leave. 


196 


DUE  SOUTH, 


"  Stay,"  said  tlie  Governor.  ''I  like  your  proposal, 
and  shall  probably  accede  to  it ;  but  I  will  take  a 
day  to  give  it  careful  thought." 

As  Tacon  said,  he  was  pleased  with  the  idea  from 
the  outset.  He  saw  that  he  was  dealing  with  a  thor- 
ough man  of  business.  He  remembered  that  he 
sliould  always  have  the  man  under  his  control,  and 
so  the  proposal  was  finally  accepted  and  confirmed. 

The  ci-devant  smuggler  at  once  assumed  all  the 
rights  which  this  extraordinary  grant  gave  to  him. 
Seeking  his  former  comrades,  they  were  all  employed 
by  Marti  on  profitable  terms  as  fishermen,  and  real- 
ized an  immunity  from  danger  not  to  be  expected  in 
their  old  business.  Having  in  his  roving  life  learned 
where  to  seek  fish  in  the  largest  quantities,  he  fur- 
nished the  city  bountifully  with  the  article,  and 
reaped  a  large  annual  profit,  un  til  the  period  expired 
for  which  the  monopoly  was  granted,  and  the  market 
reverted  to  the  government. 

Marti,  in  the  mean  time,  possessing  great  wealth, 
looked  about  him  to  see  in  what  enterprise  he  could 
best  invest  it.  The  idea  struck  him  that  if  he  could 
obtain  some  such  agreement  relating  to  theatricals  in 
Havana  as  he  had  enjoyed  in  connection  with  the 
fishery  on  the  coast,  he  could  make  a  profitable 
business  of  it.  He  was  granted  the  privilege  he 
sought,  provided  he  should  build  one  of  tlie  largest 
and  best  appointed  theatres  in  the  world  on  the 
Paseo,  and  name  it  the  Tacon  Theatre.  This  agree- 
ment he  fulfilled.  The  detailed  conditions  of  this 
monopoly  were  never  made  public. 

Many  romantic  stories  are  told  relating  to  Captain 
Marti,  but  these  are  the  only  ones  bearing  upon  the 
subject  of  our  present  work  which  are  believed  to  be 
authentic. 


T AGON'S  ClIAFUCTER. 


197 


Of  all  tlie  Governors-General  who  have  occupied 
tliat  position  in  Cuba,  none  are  better  known  at  home 
or  abroad  than  Tacon,  though  he  filled  the  post  but 
four  years,  having  been  appointed  in  1834,  and  re- 
turning to  Spain  in  1838.  His  reputation  at  Havana 
is  of  a  somewhat  doubtful  character,  for  although  he 
followed  out  with  energy  the  various  improvements 
suggested  by  Arranjo,  yet  his  modes  of  procedure  were 
often  so  violent  that  he  was  au  object  of  terror  to  the 
people  generally  rather  than  one  of  gratitude.  It 
must  be  admitted  that  he  vastly  improved  the  ap- 
pearance of  the  capital  and  its  vicinity,  built  a  new 
prison,  rebuilt  the  Governor's  palace,  constructed 
several  new  roads  in  the  environs,  including  the 
Paseo  bearing  his  name,  and  opened  a  large  parade- 
ground  just  outside  the  old  city  walls,  thus  laying  the 
foundation  of  the  new  city  which  has  sprung  up  in 
the  formerly  desolate  neighborhood  of  the  Campo  de 
Marte.  Tacon  also  practically  suppressed  the  public 
gaming-houses,  but  this  radical  effort  to  check  an  in- 
herent vice  only  resulted  in  transferring  the  gambling- 
tables  of  the  private  houses  devoted  to  the  purpose 
into  the  public  restaurants,  which  was  not  much  of 
an  improvement. 

In  one  important  matter  he  was  more  successful ; 
namely,  in  instituting  a  system  of  police,  and  render- 
ing the  streets  of  Havana,  which  were  formerly 
infested  with  robbers,  as  secure  as  those  of  most  of 
our  American  cities.  But  his  reforms  w^ere  all  con- 
summated with  a  rude,  arbitrary  arm,  and  in  a 
military  fashion.  Life  or  property  were  counted  by 
him  of  little  value,  if  either  required  to  be  sacrificed 
for  his  purpose.  Many  people  fell  before  his  relent- 
less orders.    There  was  undoubtedly  much  of  right 


198 


DUE  SOUTH, 


mingled  with  his  wrongs,  but  if  he  left  lasting  monu- 
ments of  energy  and  skill  behind  him,  he  also  left 
many  tombs  filled  by  his  victims.  Notwithstanding 
all,  there  seemed  to  be  throughout  his  notable  career 
a  sort  of  romantic  spirit  of  justice  —  wild  justice  — 
prompting  him.  Some  of  the  stories  still  current  re- 
lating to  him  go  far  to  show  this  to  have  been  the 
case,  w^hile  others  exhibit  the  possibilities  of  arbitrary 
power,  as  exercised  in  the  contract  with  Captain 
Marti. 

On  January  6th,  the  day  of  Epiphany,  the  negroes 
of  Havana,  as  well  as  in  the  otlier  cities  of  the  island, 
make  a  grand  public  demonstration;  indeed,  the  occa- 
sion may  be  said  to  be  given  up  to  them  as  a  holiday 
for  their  race.  They  march  about  the  principal  streets 
in  bands,  each  with  its  leader  got  up  like  a  tambour 
major,  and  accompanied  by  rude  African  drum  notes 
and  songs.  They  are  dressed  in  the  most  fantastic 
and  barbarous  disguises,  some  wearing  cow's  horns, 
others  masks  representing  the  heads  of  wild  beasts, 
and  some  are  seen  prancing  on  dummy  horses.  All 
wear  the  most  gorgeous  colors,  and  go  from  point  to 
point  on  the  plazas  and  paseos,  asking  for  donations 
from  every  one  they  meet.  It  is  customary  to  respond 
to  these  demands  in  a  moderate  way,  and  the  greatest 
reasonable  latitude  is  given  to  the  blacks  on  the 
occasion;  reminding  one  of  a  well-manned  ship  at 
sea  in  a  dead  calm,  before  the  days  of  steam,  when 
all  hands  were  piped  to  mischief.  But  what  it  all 
means  except  improving  a  special  occasion  for  whole- 
sale noise,  grotesque  parading,  and  organized  begging, 
it  will  puzzle  the  stranger  to  make  out.  Among  the 
colored  performers  there  is  but  a  small  proportion 
of  native  Africans,  that  is,  negroes  actually  imported 


ISLE  OF  PINES. 


199 


into  Cuba  ;  most  of  them  are  direct  descendants,  how- 
ever, from  parents  who  were  brought  from  the  slave 
coast,  but  it  must  be  remembered  that  none  have  been 
imported  for  about  thirty  yeais. 

The  Isle  of  Pines,  which  has  been  more  tlian  once 
al hided  to  in  these  notes,  is  situated  less  than  forty 
miles  south  of  Cuba,  being  under  the  jurisdiction  of 
tlie  Governor-General  of  Havana.  It  is  forty-four 
miles  long  and  nenrly  as  wide,  having  an  area  of  be- 
tween twelve  and  thirteen  hundred  square  miles.  It 
is  supposed  that  there  are  about  two  thousand  in- 
habitants, though  Spanish  statistics  are  not  to  be 
relied  upon.  Like  Cuba,  it  has  a  mountain  range 
traversing  the  middle  for  its  whole  length,  but  the 
highest  portion  does  nob  reach  quite  two  thousand 
feet.  The  island  has  several  rivers  and  is  well  watered 
by  springs.  The  climate  is  pronounced  to  be  even 
more  salubrious  tlian  that  of  Cuba,  while  the  soil  is 
marvelously  fertile.  An  English  physician,  who, 
with  a  patient,  passed  a  winter  at  Nueva  Gerona, 
which  has  a  population  of  only  a  hundred  souls,  says 
the  climate  is  remarkably  bland  and  equable,  es- 
pecially adapted  for  pulmonary  invalids.  The  coast 
is  deeply  indented  by  bays,  some  of  which  afford  good 
anchorage,  though  the  island  is  surrounded  by  in- 
numerable rocky  islets  or  keys.  The  Isle  of  Pines  is 
very  nearly  in  the  same  condition  in  which  Columbus 
found  it  in  1494,  containing  a  large  amount  of  precious 
woods,  and  some  valuable  mines  of  silver,  iron,  sulphui', 
quicksilver,  and  quarries  of  beautifully  variegated 
marble.  It  is  reached  by  special  steamers  from 
Havana,  not  oftener  than  once  a  month* 


CHAPTER  XL 


The  Havana  Lottery.  —  Its  Influence.  —  Hospitality  of  the  Cuhans. 

—  About  Bonnets.  —  The  Creole  Lady's  Eace.  —  Love  of  Elowers. 

—  An  Atmospheric  Narcotic.  —  The  Treacherous  Indian  Fig. — 
Plow  the  Cocoanut  is  propagated.  —  Cost  of  Living-  in  Cuba.  — 
Spurious  Liquors.  —  A  Pleasant  Health  liesort.  —  The  Cock-Pit. 

—  Game-Birds.  —  Their  Management.  —  A  Cuban  Cock-Fight. — 
Garden  of  the  World.  —  About  Birds.  —  Stewed  Owl !  —  Slaughter 
of  the  Innocents.  —  The  Various  Fruits. 

There  is  a  regularly  organized  lottery  in  Havana, 
to  which  the  government  lends  its  name,  and  which 
has  semi-monthiy  drawings.  These  drawings  are  made 
in  public,  and  great  care  is  taken  to  impress  the  peo- 
])le  with  the  idea  of  their  entire  fairness.  The  author- 
ities realize  over  a  million  dollars  annually  by  the 
tax  which  is  paid  into  the  treasury  on  these  most 
questionable  enterprises.  The  lottery  is  patronized 
by  high  and  low,  the  best  mercantile  houses  devoting 
a  regular  sum  monthly  to  the  purchase  of  tickets  on 
behalf  of  their  firms.  One  individual  of  this  class 
told  the  writer  that  no  drawing  had  taken  place 
within  the  last  ten  years  at  Havana  in  which  the 
firm  of  which  he  was  a  member  had  not  been  inter- 
ested to  the  extent  of  at  least  one  doubloon,  that  is, 
one  whole  ticket.  Tlie  mode  usually  is,  however,  to 
purchase  several  fractional  parts  of  tickets,  so  as  to 
multiply  the  chances.  On  being  asked  what  was  the 
result  of  the  ten  years  of  speculation  in  this  line,  the 
reply  was  that  the  books  of  the  firm  w^ould  show,  as 
it  was  entered  therein  like  any  other  line  of  purchases. 


ROYAL  HAVANA  LOTTERY. 


201 


Curious  to  find  an  authentic  instance  as  an  example, 
the  matter  was  followed  up  until  the  result  was  found. 
It  seemed  that  tliis  house  had  averaged  about  four 
hundred  dollars  per  annum  expended  for  lottery- 
tickets,  that  is,  four  thousand  dollars  in  the  last  ten 
years.  On  the  credit  side  they  had  received  in  prizes 
about  nineteen  hundred  dollars,  making  a  loss  of 
twenty-one  hundred  dollars.  But  then,"  remarked 
our  informant,  we  may  get  a  big  prize  one  of  these 
days,  —  who  knows  ?  " 

The  lottery  here  proves  to  be  as  great  a  curse  as  it 
does  in  Italy,  where  its  demoralizing  effects  are  more 
apparent.  The  poorer  classes,  even  including  the 
slaves  and  free  negroes,  are  regular  purchasers,  and 
occasionally  a  prize  is  realized  among  them,  which 
stimulates  to  increased  ventures.  A  few  years  since, 
some  slaves  upon  a  plantation  near  Alquizar  pur- 
chased a  single  ticket,  clubbing  together  in  order  to 
raise  the  money.  These  Africans  drew  a  prize  of  forty 
thousand  dollars,  which  sum  was  honestly  paid  to 
them,  and  tliej^  purcliased  their  freedom  at  once,  divid- 
ing a  very  pretty  amount  for  each  as  a  capital  to 
begin  business  on  liis  own  account. 

^'  And  pray  what  became  of  those  liberated  men  ?  " 
we  asked  of  our  informant.  "  Singular  to  say  I  can 
tell  you,"  he  answered.  Others  felt  the  same  interest 
you  express,  and  they  have  been  followed  in  their 
subsequent  career.  There  were  sixteen  of  the  party, 
who  realized  equal  portions  of  the  prize.  They  were 
valuable  slaves,  and  paid  an  average  of  fifteen  hun- 
dred dollars  each  for  their  free  papers.  This  left 
them  a  thousand  dollars  each.  Two  returned  to 
Africa.  Four  joined  the  insurgents  at  Santiago,  in 
1870,  and  were  probably  shot.  The  remainder  drank 


202 


DUE  SOUTH. 


themselves  to  death  in  Havana,  or  died  by  fevers  in- 
duced through  intemperate  habits."  ''  Did  you  ever 
know  a  man,  white  or  black,  who  drew  a  prize  of  any 
large  amount,  who  was  not  the  worse  for  it  after  a 
short  time?"  we  asked.  Perhaps  not,"  was  his 
honest  reply.  A  miserable  creature  came  into  the 
vestibule  of  the  Telegrafo  Hotel  one  day  begging. 
After  he  had  departed  we  were  told  that  a  few  years 
ago  he  was  possessed  of  a  fortune.  Why  is  he  in 
this  condition  ?  "  we  asked.  He  was  engaged  in  a 
good  business,"  said  our  informant,  ^'drew  a  large 
prize  in  the  lottery,  sold  out  his  establishment,  and 
gave  himself  up  to  pleasure,  gambbng,  and  drink. 
That  is  all  that  is  left  of  him  now.  He  has  just 
come  out  of  the  hospital,  where  he  was  treated  for 
paralysis." 

Honestly  conducted  as  these  lotteries  are  generally 
believed  to  be,  their  very  stability  and  the  just  pay- 
ment of  prizes  but  makes  them  the  more  baleful  and 
dangerous  in  their  influence  upon  the  public.  As  car- 
ried on  in  Havana,  the  lottery  business  is  the  most 
wholesale  mode  of  gambling  ever  witnessed.  Though 
some  poor  man  may  become  comparatively  wealthy 
through  their  means,  once  in  twenty  years,  yet  in  the 
mean  time  thousands  are  impoverished  in  their  mad 
ze;d  to  purch  ise  tickets  though  it  cost  them  the  last 
dollar  they  possess.  The  government  thus  fosters  a 
taste  for  gambling  and  supplies  the  ready  means, 
while  any  one  at  all  acquainted  with  the  Spanish 
character  must  know  that  the  populace  need  no 
prompting  in  a  vice  to  which  they  seem  to  take  intu- 
itivel}^  No  people,  unless  it  be  the  Chinese,  are  so 
addicted  to  all  games  of  chance  upon  which  money 
can  be  staked. 


HOSPITALITY. 


203 


Spaniards,  and  especially  Cuban  Spaniards,  receive 
credit  for  being  extremely  hospitable,  and  to  a  cer- 
tain extent  this  is  true  ;  but  one  soon  learns  to  regard 
the  extriivagant  manifestations  which  so  often  char- 
acterize their  domestic  etiquette  as  rather  empty  and 
heartless.  Let  a  stranger  enter  the  house  of  a  Cuban 
for  the  first  time,  especially  if  he  be  a  foreigner,  and 
the  host  or  hostess  of  the  mansion  at  once  places  all 
things  they  possess  at  his  service,  yet  no  one  thinks 
for  a  single  moment  of  interpreting  this  offer  liter- 
ally. The  family  vehicle  is  at  your  order,  or  the 
loan  of  a  saddle  horse,  and  in  such  small  kindnesses 
they  are  always  generous  ;  but  when  they  beg  you  to 
accept  a  ring,  a  book,  or  a  valuable  toy,  because  you 
have  been  liberal  in  your  praise  of  the  article,  you 
are  by  no  means  to  do  so.  Another  trait  of  character 
which  suggests  itself  in  this  connection  is  the  univer- 
sal habit  of  profuse  compliment  common  among  Cu- 
ban ladies.  Flattery  is  a  base  coin  at  best,  but  it  is 
current  here.  The  ladies  listen  to  these  compliments 
as  a  matter  of  course  from  their  own  countrymen  or 
such  Frenchmen  as  have  settled  among  them,  but  if 
an  American  takes  occasion  to  express  his  honest 
admiration  to  a  Creole,  her  delight  is  at  once  mani- 
fest. Both  the  French,  and  Spanish  are  extremely 
gallant  to  the  gentler  sex,  but  it  requires  no  argu- 
ment to  show  that  woman  under  either  nationality  is 
far  less  esteemed  and  honored  than  she  is  with  us  in 
America. 

The  bonnet,  which  forms  so  important  a  part  of 
a  lady's  costume  in  Europe  and  America,  is  rarely 
worn  by  the  Creoles,  and  strangers  who  appear  on  the 
streets  of  Havana  with  the  latest  fashion  of  this  ever 
varying  article  are  regarded  with  curiosity,  though  so 


204 


DUE  SOUTH. 


many  American  and  English  ladies  visit  the  island 
annually.  In  place  of  a  bonnet,  when  any  covering 
is  considered  desirable  for  the  head,  the  Cuban  ladies 
generally  wear  a  long  black  veil,  richly  wrought,  and 
gathered  at  the  back  of  the  head  upon  the  clustered 
braid  of  hair,  which  is  always  black  and  luxuriant. 
More  frequently,  however,  even  this  appendage  is  not 
seen,  and  they  drive  in  the  Paseo  or  through  the 
streets  with  their  heads  entirely  uncovered,  save  by 
the  sheltering  hood  of  the  victoria.  When  neces- 
sity calls  them  abroad  in  the  early  or  middle  hours 
of  the  day,  there  is  generally  a  canvas  screen  but- 
toned to  the  dasher  and  extended  to  the  top  of  the 
calash,  to  shut  out  the  too  ardent  rays  of  the  sun. 
Full  dress,  on  all  state  occasions,  is  black,  but  white  is 
universally  worn  by  the  ladies  in  domestic  life,  form- 
ing a  rich  contrast  to  the  olive  complexions  of  the 
women.  Sometimes  in  the  Paseo,  when  enjoying  the 
evening  drive,  these  fair  creatures  indulge  in  strange 
contrasts  of  colors  in  dress.  They  also  freely  make 
use  of  a  cosmetic  called  cascarilla,  made  from  egg- 
shells finely  powdered  and  mixed  with  the  white  of 
the  egg.  This  forms  an  adhesive  paste,  with  which 
they  at  times  enamel  themselves,  so  that  faces  and 
necks  that  are  naturally  dark  resemble  those  of  per- 
sons who  are  white  as  pearls. 

There  is  one  indispensable  article,  without  which  a 
Cuban  lady  would  feel  herself  absolutely  lost.  The 
fan  is  a  positive  necessity  to  her,  and  she  learns  its 
coquettish  and  graceful  use  from  childhood.  Formed 
of  various  rich  materials,  it  glitters  in  her  tiny  hand 
like  a  gaudy  butterfly,  now  half,  now  wholly  shading 
her  radiant  face,  which  quickly  peeps  out  again  from 
behind  its  shelter,  like  the  moon  from  out  a  passing 


NATURE'S  PRODIGALITY. 


205 


cloud.  This  little  article,  always  costly,  sometimes 
very  expensive,  in  her  hand  seems  in  its  eloquence  of 
motion  almost  to  speak.  She  has  a  witchiug  flirt 
with  it  that  expresses  scorn  ;  a  graceful  wave  of  com- 
placence ;  an  abrupt  closing  of  it  that  indicates  vexa- 
tion or  anger  ;  a  gradual  and  cautious  opening  of  its 
folds  that  signifies  reluctant  forgiveness ;  in  short,  the 
language  of  the  fan  in  the  hand  of  a  Cuban  lady  is  a 
w^onderfully  adroit  and  expressive  pantomime  that 
requires  no  interpreter,  for,  like  the  Chinese  written 
language,  it  cannot  be  spoken. 

It  may  be  the  prodigality  of  nature  in  respect  to 
Flora's  kingdom  which  has  retarded  the  development 
of  a  love  for  flowers  among  the  people  of  the  island. 
Doubtless  if  Mareclial  Mel  roses.  Jacqueminots,  jon- 
quils, and  lilies  of  the  valley  were  as  abundant  with 
us  in  every  field  as  clover,  dandelions,  and  butter- 
cups, we  should  hardly  regard  them  with  so  much  de- 
light as  we  do.  It  is  not  common  to  see  flowers  under 
cultivation  as  they  are  at  the  North.  They  spring  up 
too  readily  in  a  wild  state  from  the  fertile  soil.  One 
cannot  pass  over  half  a  league  on  an  inland  road  with- 
out his  senses  being  regaled  and  delighted  by  the 
natural  floral  fragrance,  heliotrope,  honeysuckle,  sweet 
pea,  and  orange  blossoms  predominating.  The  jas- 
mine and  Cape  rose,  though  less  fragrant,  are  delight- 
ful to  the  eye,  and  cluster  everyw^here  among  the 
hedges,  groves,  and  coffee  estates.  Tliere  is  a  blos- 
soming shrub,  the  native  name  of  which  we  do  not 
remember,  but  which  is  remarkable  for  its  multitu- 
dinous crimson  flowers,  so  seductive  to  the  humming- 
birds tliat  they  hover  about  it  all  day  long,  burying 
themselves  in  its  blossoms  until  petal  and  wing  seem 
one.    At  first  upright,  a  uttle  later  the  gorgeous 


20G 


DUE  SOUTH, 


bells  droop  downward  and  fall  to  the  ground  un with- 
ered, being  poetically  called  Cupid's  tears.  Flowers 
abound  here  which  are  only  known  to  us  in  our  hot- 
houses, whose  brilliant  colors,  like  those  of  the  cac- 
tus, scarlet,  yellow,  and  blue,  are  quite  in  harmony 
with  the  surroundings,  where  everything  is  aglow. 
There  was  pointed,  out  to  us  a  specimen  of  the  frangi- 
panni,  a  tall  and  nearly  leafless  plant  bearing  a  milk- 
white  flower,  and  resembling  the  tuberose  in  fra- 
grance, but  in  form  much  like  our  Cherokee  rose. 
This  plant,  it  will  be  remembered,  was  so  abundant 
and  so  pleasant  to  the  senses  as  to  attract  the  atten- 
tion of  the  early  explorers  who  accompanied  Colum- 
bus across  the  sea. 

There  seems  to  be  at  times  a  strange  narcotic  influ- 
ence in  the  atmosphere  of  the  island,  realized  more 
especially  inland,  where  the  visitor  is  partially  re- 
moved from  the  winds  which  commonly  blow  from 
the  Gulf  in  the  after  j)art  of  the  day.  So  potent  has 
the  writer  felt  this  influence  that  at  first  it  was  sup- 
posed to  be  the  effect  of  some  powerful  and  medicinal 
plant  abounding  in  the  neighborhood ;  but  on  inquiry 
it  was  found  that  this  delightful  sense  of  ease  and 
indolent  luxuriousness  was  not  an  unusual  experience, 
particularly  among  strangers,  and  was  solely  attribu- 
table to  the  narcotic  of  the  soft  climate.  By  gently 
yielding  to  tliis  influence  one  seemed  to  dream  while 
aw:d^e,  and  though  tlie  sense  of  hearing  is  diminished, 
that  of  the  olfactories  appears  to  be  increased,  and 
pleasant  odors  float  on  every  passing  breeze.  One 
feels  at  peace  with  all  human  nature,  and  a  sense  of 
voluptuous  ease  overspreads  the  body.  Others  have 
experienced  and  remarked  upon  this  sensation  of  idle 
happiness.    The  only  unpleasant  realizing  sense  dur* 


INDIAN  FIG-'COCOANUT. 


207 


ing  the  enjoyment  of  this  condition  is  the  fear  that 
some  human  voice,  or  some  chance  noioe,  loud  and 
abrupt,  may  arouse  the  dreamer  from  his  trance. 

Specimens  of  the  Indian  fig,  as  it  is  called  here, 
will  be  sure  to  attract  the  visitor's  eye  on  his  inland 
excursions.  It  clasps,  entwines,  and  finally,  serpent- 
like, kills  the  loftiest  forest  monarchs,  and  taking 
their  place,  firmly  roots  itself  and  becomes  a  stately 
tree,  fattening  upon  its  ill-gotten  possession.  Its  un- 
fading leaf  of  vivid  green  is  beautiful  to  look  upon, 
in  spite  of  its  known  and  treacherous  character.  In 
many  respects  it  typifies  the  Spanish  discoverers  of 
this  beautiful  isle,  who  gradually  possessed  themselves 
of  its  glorious  heritage  by  the  destruction  of  its  le- 
gitimate owners. 

The  manner  in  which  that  prolific  tree,  the  cocoa- 
nut  palm,  is  propagated  was  a  curious  and  interesting 
study  for  a  leisure  hour,  the  germination  having  been 
with  us  heretofore  an  unsolved  riddle.  Within  the 
hard  shell  of  the  nut,  among  the  mass  of  rich  creamy 
substance,  near  the  large  end,  is  a  small  white  lump 
like  the  stalk  of  a  young  mushroom,  called  the 
ovule.  This  little  finger-like  germ  of  the  future  tree 
gradually  forces  itself  through  one  of  the  three  eyes 
always  to  be  found  on  the  cocoanut.  What  giant 
power  is  concealed  within  that  tiny  ovule,  apparently 
so  soft  and  insignificant !  Having  pierced  its  way 
through  the  first  shell,  it  then  gradually  rends  the 
outer  coat  of  fibrous  covering  and  curves  upward  to- 
wards the  light.  Into  the  inner  shell  which  it  has 
vacated,  it  throws  little  fibrous  threads  which  slowly 
absorb  the  albumen,  and  thus  sustain  its  new  life  as 
it  rapidly  develops.  First  a  few  leaves  grow  upward, 
which  from  the  very  outset  begin  to  assume  the  pin- 


208 


DUE  SOUTH. 


nate  form  of  the  cocoanut  leaf,  while,  stretching  earth- 
ward, a  myriad  of  little  threads  of  roots  bury  them- 
selves in  the  ground.  Though  the  tree  will  grow  to 
a  height  of  sixty  feet  or  more,  these  roots  will  never 
individually  exceed  the  size  of  the  fingers  on  one's 
hand.  In  five  or  six  years  the  tree  will  produce  its 
first  cluster  of  cocoanuts,  and  for  several  years  will 
go  on  increasing  in  fruitfulness  and  yielding  a  bounti- 
ful crop  for  fifty  or  sixty  years.  It  was  a  constant 
wonder  how  these  cocoanut  trees  could  sustain  an  up- 
right position  with  such  a  weight  of  ripening  fruit 
clustered  beneath  the  shade  of  their  tufted  tops. 

As  regards  the  cost  of  living  in  the  island,  it  may 
be  said  to  average  higher  to  the  stranger  than  in  the 
United  States.  At  the  city  hotels  and  large  board- 
ing houses  the  charge  is  modified  from  four  or  five 
dollars  per  day  ;  if  a  special  bargain  is  made  for  a 
considerable  period,  it  is  customary  to  give  a  reduc- 
tion on  transient  rates  of  ten  or  fifteen  per  cent. 
Among  the  small  towns  in  the  interior,  at  the  houses 
of  entertainment,  which  are  wretchedly  poor  as  a  rule, 
the  charges  are  exorbitant,  and  strangers  are  looked' 
upon  as  fair  game.  This,  however,  is  no  more  so 
than  in  continental  Europe,  where,  though  the  ac- 
commodations are  better,  the  general  treatment  is  the 
same.  The  luscious  and  healthful  fruits  of  the  coun- 
try form  a  large  share  of  the  provisions  of  the  table 
in  Cuba,  and  are  always  freely  provided.  A  fair 
quality  of  claret  wine,  imported  from  Spain,  is  also 
regularly  placed  before  the  guest  free  of  cliarge,  it 
being  the  ordinary  drink  of  the  people;  but  beware 
of  calling  for  other  wines,  and  particularly  cham- 
pagne, unless  you  are  prepared  to  be  swindled  by  the 
price  charged  in  your  bill.    Of  course  you  get  only 


GUINES, 


209 


imitation  champagne,  —  that  is  to  be  expected  ;  you 
do  the  same  nearly  everywhere.  There  is  not  enough 
pure  champagne  manufactured  in  Europe  to  supply 
the  Paris  and  London  markets  alone.  The  mode  of 
cooking  is  very  similar  to  the  French,  plus  the  uni- 
versal garlic,  which,  like  tobacco,  appears  to  be  a 
prime  necessity  to  the  average  Spanish  appetite.  One 
does  not  visit  Cuba,  however,  with  the  expectation  of 
finding  all  the  niceties  of  the  table  which  are  ordi- 
nary comforts  at  home,  and  therefore  he  is  quite  con- 
tent to  enjoy  the  delightful  fruits  of  the  country,  the 
novel  scenery,  the  curious  vegetation,  and  the  capti- 
vating climate,  which  cannot  fail  to  compensate  for 
many  small  annoyances. 

One  of  the  most  pleasant  and  healthful  resorts  for 
a  temporary  home  on  the  island  is  probably  the 
small  but  thrifty  town  of  Guines,  situated  about 
forty-five  miles  from  Havana,  with  which  it  is  con- 
nected by  rail ;  indeed,  this  was  the  first  railroad  con- 
structed in  Cuba,  that  between  Matanzas  and  Havana 
being  the  second.  Both  were  mainly  the  result  of 
American  enterprise  and  capital.  There  are  now  a 
little  over  nine  hundred  miles  of  railroad  in  opera- 
tion, and  more  is  urgently  demanded  to  open  internal 
communication  with  important  sections.  The  water 
communication  along  the  southern  and  northern 
coasts  is  mostly  depended  upon,  and  a  very  well  or- 
ganized system  is  sustained  by  three  or  four  lines  of 
domestic  steamers.  The  immediate  locality  of  Guines 
is  thought  to  be  one  of  the  most  salubrious  and  best 
for  invalids  on  the  western  division  of  the  island,  and 
is  largely  resorted  to  by  Americans.  It  has  generally 
more  of  the  comforts  considered  necessary  for  persons 
in  delicate  health  than  can  readily  be  obtained  in 
14 


210 


DUE  SOUTH, 


Havana,  and  one  has  here  the  quiet  and  retu^ement 
which  it  is  impossible  to  JBnd  in  the  metropolis. 

Here  will  be  seen,  as  in  all  towns  large  or  small  in 
Cuba,  a  curious  place  of  amusement  of  circular  form, 
called  a  "  pit,"  where  the  natives  indulge  their  na- 
tional passion  for  cock-fighting  and  gambling  com- 
bined. It  is  astonishing  how  pugnacious  and  fierce 
these  birds  become  by  careful  training;  the  instinct 
must  be  in  them  or  it  could  not  be  so  developed. 
When  brought  together  and  opposed  to  each  other  in 
battle,  one  must  die,  and  often  both  do  so,  for  they 
will  fight  as  long  as  they  can  stand  on  their  feet.  The 
pit  is  always  crowded,  and  the  amount  of  money 
which  changes  hands  daily  in  this  cruel  mode  of  gam- 
bling is  very  considerable.  Women  not  infrequently 
attend  these  contests,  but  only  those  of  the  pariah 
class,  certain  back  seats  being  reserved  for  them, 
while  here  and  there  may  be  seen  a  shovel-hatted 
priest,  as  eager  in  tlie  result  as  the  professionals 
themselves.  The  cock-pit  is  a  circular  building,  thirty 
or  forty  feet  in  diameter,  resembling  on  the  outside 
a  huge  haystack.  The  size,  however,  is  regulated  ac- 
cording to  the  population  of  the  immediate  neighbor- 
hood. The  seats  are  raised  in  a  circle,  one  above  an- 
other, about  a  central  ring  in  which  the  contest  takes 
place.  The  ground  is  covered  with  sawdust  or  tan. 
Tlie  birds  are  of  a  native  game  breed,  and  are  sub- 
ject from  chickenhood  to  a  peculiar  course  of  treat- 
ment. The  English  game-cock  is  prized  here  only 
for  crossing  with  the  native  breed.  He  cannot  equal 
the  Spanish  bird  in  the  necessary  qualities  of  pluck 
and  endurance. 

The  food  of  the  game-cock  when  in  training  is 
regulated  wdth  great  care,  carefully  weighed,  and  a 


TRAINING  GAME  BIRDS. 


211 


certain  number  of  ounces  is  given  to  liim  three  times 
a  day,  so  that  the  bird,  like  a  race-liorse,  is  never 
permitted  to  grow  fat,  but  is  kept  in  what  is  called 
fighting  condition.  Some  days  before  a  contest  they 
are  fed  with  a  few  ounces  of  raw  meat  once  during 
the  twenty-four  hours,  which,  being  kept  always  a 
little  hungrj^,  they  devour  with  avidity.  Greater 
care  as  to  diet  and  exercise  could  not  be  taken  by 
pugilists  training  for  a  confiict.  The  feathers  of 
these  fighting-cocks  are  closely  cropped  in  a  jaunty 
style ;  the  neck  and  head,  to  the  length  of  three 
inches,  is  completely  plucked  of  all  feathers,  the  comb 
being  trimmed  close  to  the  crown.  The  flesh  which 
is  thus  left  bare  i  >  daily  rubbed  with  rum  until  it  be- 
comes hardened  and  calloused.  Brief  encounters  are 
permitted  among  them  under  proper  restrictions, 
when  they  are  young.  No  fear  is  felt  that  they  will 
seriously  injure  each  other,  until  they  are  old  enough 
to  have  the  sharp  steel  gaffs  affixed  upon  the  spurs 
with  which  nature  has  supplied  them.  Then,  like 
men  armed  with  sword  and  dagger,  they  attack  each 
other  with  fatal  earnestness,  making  the  blood  flow 
at  every  stroke.  It  is  singular  that  the  birds  are  so 
determined  upon  the  fight  that  no  amount  of  loud 
cries,  or  challenges  between  the  betters,  or  jeers  by 
the  excited  audience,  disturbs  them  in  the  least. 

The  author  witnessed  one  of  these  exhibitions  at 
Guines.  The  fighting-ring  of  the  cock-pit  was  some 
twelve  feet  in  diameter,  the  seating  capacity  being 
arranged  for  about  a  hundred  persons  or  more,  and 
each  bench  was  fully  occupied.  The  two  birds  pitted 
against  each  other  were  carefully  weighed,  and  the 
result  was  announced  to  the  audience.  They  were 
then  passed  in  review,  held  in  the  hands  of  their  re- 


212 


DUE  SOUTH, 


spective  owners,  and  betting  at  once  commenced  as 
to  which  would  win  the  yictory.  In  the  mean  time 
the  two  birds  seemed  quietly  awaiting  their  time,  and 
by  the  knowing  way  in  which  both  surveyed  the 
surroundings  and  the  assembled  people,  they  really 
appeared  as  it  they  understood  the  business  in  hand. 
There  was  no  struggling  on  their  part  to  get  out  of 
the  hands  of  those  who  held  them.  Presently  they 
were  passed  into  the  care  of  the  umpires,  two  of 
whom  officiated,  and  who  then  affixed  the  steel  gatfs 
to  the  spurs  of  the  contestants.  The  two  birds 
were  then  placed  on  the  ground  inside  of  the  ring, 
opposite  each  other.  No  sooner  did  they  feel  them- 
selves fairly  on  their  feet  than  both  crowed  trium- 
phantly, eying  each  other  with  fell  intent. 

Then  commenced  a  series  of  bird-tactics,  each  par- 
tially advancing  and  pretending  to  retreat  as  if  to 
draw  on  his  antagonist,  pecking  the  while  at  imagi- 
nary kernels  of  corn  on  the  ground.  In  the  mean  time 
the  audience  almost  held  its  breath  in  anticipation 
of  the  cunningly  deferred  onset.  Presently  the  two 
birds,  as  if  by  one  impulse,  rushed  towards  each  other, 
and  a  simultaneous  attack  took  place.  The  contest, 
when  the  birds  are  armed  with  steel  gaffs,  rarely 
lasts  more  than  eight  or  ten  minutes  before  one  or 
both  are  so  injured  as  to  end  the  fight.  The  money 
staked  upon  the  fight  is  won  by  those  backing  the 
bird  which  survives,  or  is  longest  in  dying.  When 
the  artificial  spurs  are  not  used,  and  tlie  birds  fight 
in  their  natural  state,  the  battle  sometimes  lasts  for 
an  hour,  but  is  always  fatal  in  the  end  to  one  or 
the  other,  or  both.  Ej^es  are  pecked  out,  wings  and 
legs  broken,  necks  pierced  again  and  again ;  still 
they  fight  on  until  death  ensues.    During  the  fight 


GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD, 


213 


the  excitement  is  intense,  and  a  babel  of  voices 
reigns  within  the  structure,  the  betting  being  loud, 
rapid,  and  high.  Thus  in  a  small  way  the  cock-fight 
is  as  cruel  and  as  demoralizing  as  that  other  national 
game,  the  terrible  bull-fight,  indigenous  to  Spain  and 
her  colonies. 

Cuba  has  justly  been  called  the  garden  of  the 
world,  perpetual  summer  smiling  upon  its  shores,  and 
its  natural  wealth  and  possibilities  baffling  even  the 
imagination.  The  waters  which  surround  it,  as  we 
have  seen,  abound  with  a  variety  of  fishes,  whose 
bright  colors,  emulating  the  tints  of  precious  stones 
and  the  prismatic  hues  of  the  rainbow,  astonish  and 
delight  the  eye  of  the  stranger.  Stately  and  peculiar 
tiees  enliven  the  picturesque  landscape.  Throughout 
the  woods  and  groves  flit  a  variety  of  birds,  whose 
dazzling  colors  defy  the  palette  of  the  artist.  Here 
the  loquacious  parrot  utters  his  harsh  natural  notes ; 
there  the  red  flamingo  watches  by  the  shore  of  the 
lagoon,  the  waters  dyed  by  the  reflection  of  his  scar- 
let plumage.  It  would  require  a  volume  to  describe 
the  vegetable  and  animal  kingdom  of  Cuba,  but 
among  the  most  familiar  birds  are  the  golden  robin, 
the  bluebird,  the  catbird,  the  Spanish  woodpecker, 
the  gaudj^-plumed  paroquet,  and  the  pedoreva,  with 
its  red  throat  and  breast  and  its  pea-green  head  and 
body.  There  is  also  a  great  variety  of  wild  pigeons, 
blue,  gray,  and  white  ;  the  English  lady-bird,  with  a 
blue  head,  scarlet  breast,  and  green  and  white  back ; 
the  indigo-bird,  the  golden-winged  woodpecker,  the 
ibis,  and  many  smaller  species,  like  the  humming- 
bird. Of  this  latter  family  there  are  said  to  be  sixty 
different  varieties,  each  sufficiently  individualized  in 
size  and  other  peculiarities  to  be  easily  identified  by 


214 


DUE  SOUTH. 


ornithologists.  Some  of  these  birds  are  actually  no 
larger  in  body  than  butterflies,  and  with  not  so  large 
a  spread  of  wing.  A  humming-bird's  nest,  composed 
of  cotton  interlaced  with  horse-hair,  was  shown  the 
author  at  Buena  Esperanza,  a  plantation  near  Guines. 
It  was  about  twice  the  size  of  a  lady's  thimble,  and 
contained  two  eggs,  no  larger  than  common  peas. 
The  nest  was  a  marvel  of  perfection,  the  cotton  being 
bound  cunningly  and  securely  together  by  the  long 
horse-hau's,  of  which  there  were  not  more  than  three 
or  four.  Human  fingers  could  not  have  done  it  so 
deftly.  Probably  the  bird  that  built  the  nest  and 
laid  the  eggs  did  not  weigh,  all  fledged,  over  half  an 
ounce  !  Parrots  settle  on  the  sour  orange  trees  when 
the  fruit  is  ripe,  and  fifty  may  be  secured  by  a  net  at 
a  time.  The  Creoles  stew  and  eat  them  as  we  do 
pigeons  ;  the  flesh  is  tough,  and  as  there  are  plenty 
of  fine  water-fowl  and  marsh  birds  about  the  lagoons 
as  easily  procured,  one  is  at  a  loss  to  account  for  the 
taste  that  leads  to  eating  parrots.  The  brown  pelican 
is  seen  in  great  numbers  sailing  lazily  over  the  water 
and  dipping  for  fish. 

Strange  is  the  ubiquity  of  the  crows  ;  one  sees  them 
in  middle  India,  China,  and  Japan.  They  ravage  our 
New  England  cornfields,  and  in  Ceylon,  — equatorial 
Ceylon,  —  they  absolutely  swarm.  When  one,  there- 
fore, finds  them  saucy,  noisy,  thieving,  even  in 
Cuba,  it  is  not  surprising  that  the  fact  should  be  re- 
marked upon,  though  here  the  species  differs  some- 
what from  those  referred  to,  being  known  as  the 
Jack-crow  or  turkey-buzzard.  In  the  far  East,  like 
the  vulture,  the  crow  is  considered  a  natural  scavenger 
or  remover  of  carrion,  and  the  same  excuse  is  made  for 
him  in  Cuba  and  Florida.    But  is  he  not  more  of  a 


Wi:ST  INDIAN  BIRDS. 


215 


freebooter  and  feathered  bandit, — in  short,  a  prowl- 
ing thief  generally  ?  Nature  has  few  birds  or  animals 
upon  her  varied  list  with  which  we  would  find  fault, 
but  the  crow,  — well,  having  nothing  to  say  in  its  fa- 
vor, let  us  drop  the  subject.  Parrots,  paroquets,  tiny 
indigo  birds,  pedorevas,  and  robins,  — yes,  these  are  all 
in  harmony  with  mingled  fragrance  and  sunshine,  but 
the  coal-black  crow,  with  his  bad  habits  and  hoarse 
bird-profanity,  bah  !  When  these  West  Indian  islands 
were  first  settled  by  Spanish  emigrants,  they  were  the 
home  of  myriads  of  birds  of  every  tropical  variety, 
but  to-day  the  feathered  beauties  and  merry  song- 
sters have  been  entirely  driven  away  from  some  of  the 
smaller  islands,  and  decimated  on  others,  by  the  de- 
mand for  bird's  wings  with  which  to  deck  ladies'  bon- 
nets in  Europe  and  America.  Sportsmen  have  found 
it  profitable  to  visit  the  tropics  solely  for  the  purpose 
of  shooting  these  rainbow-colored  creatures  for  orna- 
ments. Aside  from  the  loss  to  general  interest  and 
beauty  in  nature  caused  by  this  wholesale  destruc- 
tion of  the  feathered  tribe,  another  and  quite  serious 
result  has  been  the  consequence.  A  plague  of  vermin 
has  followed  the  withdrawal  of  these  little  insect- 
killers.  It  is  so  natural  to  look  for  them  amid  such 
luxuriant  vegetation  that  they  become  conspicuous  by 
their  absence.  Now  and  again,  however,  the  ears  are 
gratefully  saluted  by  the  trilling  and  sustained  notes  of 
some  hidden  songster,  whose  music  is  entirely  in  tune 
with  the  surrounding  loveliness,  but  truly  delightful 
song-birds  have  ever  been  rare  in  the  low  latitudes, 
where  there  is  more  of  color  than  song. 

Those  agriculturists  who  possess  sufficient  means 
confine  themselves  solely  to  the  raising  of  sugar,  coffee, 
and  tobacco,  the  former  principidly  employing  capi- 


216 


DUE  SOUTH. 


tal.  Indian  corn,  wliicli  the  first  settlers  found  indig- 
enous here,  is  quite  neglected,  and  when  raised  at  all 
it  is  used  before  ripening,  almost  universally,  as  green 
fodder  ;  very  little  is  ripened  and  gathered  as  grain. 
It  is  found  that  horses  and  cattle  can  be  kept  in  good 
condition  and  strength,  while  performing  the  usual 
labor  required  of  them,  by  feeding  them  on  a  liberal 
allowance  of  cornstalks,  given  in  the  green  state,  be- 
fore the  corn  has  begun  to  form  on  the  cob.  The  Cu- 
bans will  tell  you  that  the  nourishing  principle  wliich 
forms  the  grain  is  in  the  stalk  and  leaves,  and  if  fed 
in  that  state  before  ripening  further,  the  animals  ob- 
tain all  the  sustaining  properties  which  they  require. 
The  climate  is  particularly  adapted  to  the  raising  of 
oranges,  but  there  is  very  little  attention  given  to 
propagating  this  universally  popular  fruit,  more  espe- 
cially since  the  increased  production  which  has  taken 
place  on  the  other  side  of  the  Gulf  Stream  in  Florida. 
Three  years  after  the  seed  of  this  fruit  is  deposited  in 
suitable  soil  in  Cuba  the  tree  becomes  ten  or  twelve 
feet  in  height,  and  in  the  fourth  year  rarely  produces 
less  than  a  hundred  oranges,  while  at  ten  years  of 
age  it  commonlj^  bears  three  and  four  thousand,  thus 
proving,  with  proper  care,  extremely  profitable.  It 
AvilL  be  remembered  that  it  is  the  longest  lived  of  suc- 
culent fruit  trees.  There  are  specimens  still  extant 
in  Cuba  known  to  be  one  hundred  years  old.  The 
oranges  produced  in  Florida  are  of  equally  good  qual- 
ity, and  bring  a  better  price  in  the  market,  but  the 
crop  is  subject  to  more  contingencies  and  liability  to 
loss  than  in  Cuba.  The  frost  not  infrequently  ruins 
a  whole  season's  yield  in  the  peninsula  in  one  or  two 
severe  nights,  while  frost  is  never  experienced  upon 
the  island. 


FERTILITY  OF  CUBA. 


217 


It  seems  unreasonable  that  when  the  generous, 
fruitful  soil  of  Cuba  is  capable  of  producing  two  or 
three  crops  of  vegetables  annually,  tbe  agricultural 
wealth  of  the  island  should  be  so  poorly  developed. 
Thousands  upon  thousands  of  acres  of  fertile  soil  are 
still  in  their  virgin  condition.  It  is  capable  of  sup- 
porting a  population  of  almost  any  density, —  cer- 
tainly from  eight  to  ten  millions  of  people  might  find 
goodly  homes  here,  and  yet  the  largest  estimate  at  the 
present  time  gives  only  a  million  and  a  half  of  inhab- 
itants. When  one  treads  the  fertile  soil  and  beholds 
the  clustering  fruits  in  such  abundance,  the  citron, 
the  star-apple,  the  perfumed  pineapple,  the  luscious 
banana,  and  other  fruits  for  which  our  language  has  no 
name,  not  forgetting  the  various  noble  woods  which 
caused  Columbus  to  exclaim  with  pleasure,  and  to 
mention  the  palm  and  the  pine  growing  together, 
characteristic  types  of  Arctic  and  equatorial  vegeta- 
tion, we  are  struck  with  the  thought  of  how  much 
Providence  and  how  little  man  has  done  for  this  Eden 
of  the  Gulf.  We  long  to  see  it  peopled  by  men 
who  can  appreciate  the  gifts  of  nature,  men  who  are 
willing  to  do  their  part  in  recognition  of  her  fruitful- 
ness  and  who  will  second  her  spontaneous  bounty. 

Nowhere  on  the  face  of  the  globe  would  well-di- 
rected, intelligent  labor  meet  with  a  richer  reward, 
nowhere  would  repose  from  labor  be  so  sweet.  The 
hour  of  rest  here  sinks  upon  the  face  of  nature  with 
a  peculiar  charm  ;  the  night  breeze,  in  never-failing 
regularit}^  comes  with  its  gentle  wing  to  fan  the  weary 
frame,  and  no  danger  lurks  in  its  breath.  It  has  free 
scope  through  the  unglazed  windows,  and  blowing 
fresh  from  the  broad  surface  of  the  Mexican  Gulf,  it 
bears  a  goodly  tonic  to  the  system.    Beautifully  blue 


218 


DUE  SOUTH. 


are  the  heavens  and  festally  bright  the  stars  of  a  trop- 
ical night,  where  familiar  constellations  greet  us  with 
brighter  radiance  and  new  ones  charm  the  eye  with 
their  novelty.  Preeminent  in  brilliancy  among  them 
is  the  Southern  Cross,  a  galaxy  of  stars  that  never 
greets  us  in  the  North.  At  midnight  its  glitter- 
ing framework  stands  erect.  That  solemn  hour  past 
the  Cross  declines.  How  glorious  the  nights  where 
such   a  heavenly  sentinel   indicates  the  watches ! 

How  often  have  we  heard  our  guides  exclaim  in  the 
savannas  of  Venezuela,"  says  Humboldt,  or  in  the 
deserts  extending  from  Lima  to  Truxillo,  ^  Midnight 
is  past,  the  Cross  begins  to  bend.'  "  Cuba  is  indeed  a 
land  of  enchantment,  where  nature  is  beautiful  and 
bountiful,  and  where  mere  existence  is  a  luxury,  but 
it  requires  the  infusion  of  a  sterner,  a  more  self-reli- 
ant, self-denying  and  enterprising  race  to  test  its 
capabilities  and  to  astonish  the  world  with  its  produc- 
tiveness. 


CHAPTER  XI. 


Traveling  by  Volante.  —  Want  of  Inland  Communication.  —  Ameri- 
cans Profitable  Customers.  —  The  Cruel  National  Game.  —  The 
Plaza  de  Toros.  —  Description  of  a  Bull-Fight.  —  The  Infection  of 
Cruelty.  —  The  Romans  and  Spaniards  Compared.  —  Cry  of  tho 
Spanish  Mob  :  "  Bread  and  Bulls  ! "  —  Women  at  the  Fight.  —  The 
Nobility  of  the  Island.  —  The  Monteros.  —  Ignorance  of  the  Com- 
mon People. —  Scenes  in  the  Central  Market,  Havana. —  Odd 
Ideas  of  Cuban  Beggars.  — An  Original  Style  of  Dude.  —  A  Men- 
dicant Prince. 

The  volante,  the  national  vehicle  of  Cuba,  and 
until  latterly  the  only  one  in  common  use  upon  the 
island,  has  been  several  times  spoken  of.  It  has 
been  superseded,  especially  in  Havana,  just  as  steam 
launches  are  crowding  out  the  gondolas  on  the  canals 
of  Venice.  Our  present  notes  would  be  quite  incom- 
plete without  a  description  of  this  unique  vehicle. 
It  is  difficult  without  experience  to  form  an  idea  of 
its  extraordinary  ease  of  motion,  or  its  appropriate- 
ness to  the  peculiarities  of  the  country  roads,  where 
only  it  is  now  in  use.  At  first  sight,  with  its  shafts 
sixteen  feet  long,  and  wheels  six  ya.rds  in  circum- 
ference, one  would  think  that  it  must  be  very  disa- 
greeable to  ride  in ;  but  the  reverse  is  the  fact,  and 
when  seated  the  motion  is  most  agreeable,  like  being 
rocked  in  a  cloud.  It  makes  nothing  of  the  deep 
ruts  and  inequalities  upon  the  execrable  roads,  but 
sways  gently  its  low-hung,  chaise-like  body,  and 
dashes  over  and  through  every  impediment  with  the 
utmost  facility.    Strange  as  it  may  seem,  it  is  very 


220 


DUE  SOUTH. 


light  upon  the  horse,  which  the  postilion  also  be- 
strides. When  traveling  any  distance,  a  second 
horse  is  added  on  the  left,  abreast  of  the  first,  and 
attached  to  the  yolante  by  an  added  whifHetree  and 
traces.  When  there  are  two  horses  the  postilion 
rides  the  one  to  the  left,  thus  leaving  the  shaft-horse 
free  of  other  weight  than  the  vehicle. 

If  the  roads  are  very  rough,  which  is  their  chronic 
condition,  and  there  is  more  than  usual  weight  to 
carry,  a  third  horse  is  often  added,  and  he  is  placed 
abreast  with  the  others,  to  the  riglit  of  the  shaft 
horse,  being  guided  by  a  bridle  rein  in  the  hands  of 
the  calisero,  as  he  is  called.  Heretofore  the  wealthy 
people  took  great  pride  in  these  volantes,  a  purely 
Cuban  idea,  and  they  were  ornamented  for  city  use 
at  great  expense  with  silver  trimmings,  and  some- 
times even  in  gold.  A  volante  equipped  in  this  style, 
with  the  gayly-dressed  negro  postilion,  his  scarlet 
jacket  elaborately  trimmed  with  gold  or  silver  braid, 
his  high  jack-boots  with  big  silver  buckles  at  the 
knees,  and  huge  spurs  upon  his  heels,  was  quite  a 
dashing  affair,  more  especially  if  a  couple  of  black- 
eyed  Creole  ladies  constituted  the  freight. 

Were  it  not  for  the  few  railroads  and  steamboat 
routes  which  are  maintained,  communication  between 
the  several  parts  of  the  island  would  be  almost  im- 
possible. During  the  rainy  season  especially,  inland 
travel  is  impracticable  for  wheels.  China  or  Central 
Africa  is  equally  well  off  in  this  respect.  Nearly  all 
transportation,  except  it  be  on  the  line  of  the  rail- 
roads, is  accomplished  on  mule-back,  or  on  the  little 
Cuban  horses.  The  fact  is,  road  making  is  yet  to  be 
introduced  into  the  island.  Even  the  wonderful 
volante  can  only  make  its  way  in  the  environs  of 


INTERNAL  COMMUNICATION. 


221 


cities.  Most  of  the  so-called  roads  resemble  the  bed 
of  a  mountain  torrent,  and  would  liardly  pass  for  a 
eow-patli  in  America.  Nothing  more  clearly  shows 
the  undeveloped  condition  of  the  island  than  this 
Tibsence  of  means  for  internal  communication.  Tn 
Havana  and  its  immediate  environs  the  omnibus  and 
tramway  afford  facilities  which  are  liberally  patron- 
ized, though  when  the  latter  was  first  introduced  it 
was  considered  such  an  innovation  that  it  was  most 
bitterly  opposed  by  the  citizens.  Like  the  railroads, 
the  tramway  was  the  result  of  foreign  enterprise, 
and  has  doubled  the  value  of  property  in  any  direc- 
tion within  a  couple  of  leagues  of  the  city  proper. 

One  of  the  most  petty  and  most  annoying  experi- 
ences to  which  the  traveler  is  subjected  is  the  arbi- 
trary tax  of  time  and  money  put  upon  him  by  the 
small  officials,  of  every  rank,  in  the  employment  of 
the  government.  By  this  system  of  small  taxes 
upon  travelers,  a  considerable  revenue  is  realized. 
Where  this  is  known,  it  keeps  visitors  away  from 
Cuba,  which  is  just  what  the  Spaniards  pretend  to 
desire,  though  it  was  found  that  the  Creoles  did  not 
indorse  any  such  idea.  Ameiicans  leave  half  a  mil- 
lion dollars  and  more  annually  in  Havana  alone,  an 
estimate  made  for  us  by  competent  authority.  Pass- 
poits  are  imperatively  necessary  upon  landing,  and 
if  the  visitor  desires  to  travel  outside  of  the  port  at 
which  he  arrives  a  fresh  permit  is  necessary,  for 
which  a  fee  is  charged.  In  vain  do  you  show  your 
passport,  indorsed  by  the  Spanish  consul  at  the  port 
from  which  you  embarked  in  America.  The  official 
shrugs  his  shoulders,  and  says  it  is  the  law.  Besides, 
you  are  watched  and  your  movements  recorded  at 
police  headquarters;  though  in  this  respect  Berlin 


222 


DUE  SOUTH. 


is  quite  as  uncomfortable  for  strangers  as  is  the  city 
of  Havana.  Despots  must  hedge  themselves  about 
in  every  conceivable  way.  Be  careful  about  the  con- 
tents of  your  letters  sent  from  or  received  in  Cuba. 
These  are  sometimes  delivered  to  their  address,  and 
sometimes  they  are  not.  Your  correspondence  may 
be  considered  of  interest  to  other  parties  as  well  as 
to  yourself,  in  which  case  an  indefinite  delay  may 
occur  in  the  receipt  thereof. 

Of  all  the  games  and  sports  of  the  Spaniards,  that 
of  the  bull-fight  is  the  most  cruel,  and  without  one 
redeeming  featui-e  to  excuse  its  indulgence.  During 
the  winter  season,  weekly  exhibitions  are  given  at 
Havana  on  each  recurring  Sunday  afternoon,  the  same 
day  that  is  chosen  for  the  brutal  sport  in  Madrid  and 
other  Spanish  peninsular  cities.  The  arena  devoted 
to  this  purpose  will  seat  about  ten  thousand  persons. 
The  ground  upon  wdiich  the  fight  takes  place  occupies 
about  an  acre,  and  is  situated  on  the  Regla  side  of 
the  harbor,  in  the  Plaza  de  Toros.  The  seats  are 
raised  one  above  another,  in  a  complete  circle,  at  a 
secure  height  from  the  dangerous  struggle.  Some- 
times, in  his  furious  onslaughts,  the  bull  throws  him- 
self completely  over  the  stout  boards  which  separate 
him  from  the  spectators,  w^hen  a  wild  stampede 
occurs. 

On  the  occasion  of  the  fight  witnessed  by  the 
author,  after  a  shrill  flourish  of  trumpets  a  large  bull 
was  let  loose  from  apartments  beneath  the  seats,  the 
door  of  which  opened  into  the  arena.  The  poor 
creature  came  from  utter  darkness,  where  he  had 
been  kept  for  many  hours,  into  a  blaze  of  bright  sun- 
light, which  confused  him  for  a  moment,  and  he 
pawed  the  ground  excitedly,  while  he  rolled  his  big 


THE  BULL  FIGHT. 


223 


fierce  eyeballs  as  though  he  suspected  some  trick  had 
been  played  upon  him.  Presently,  having  become 
accustomed  to  the  light,  he  glared  from  one  side  to 
the  other  as  if  to  take  in  the  situation,  and  see  who 
it  was  that  dared  to  oppose  him. 

In  the  ring,  distributed  here  and  there,  were  some 
half  a  dozen  professional  fighters  on  foot,  called  ban- 
derilleros  and  chulos,  besides  which  there  were  two 
on  horseback,  known  as  picadors.  The  former  held 
scarlet  flags  in  their  hands,  with  which  to  confuse 
and  tease  the  bull ;  the  latter  Avere  armed  with  a  long 
pole  each,  at  the  end  of  which  was  a  sharp  piece 
of  steel  capable  of  wounding  the  bull,  but  not  deeply 
or  dangerously.  These  fighters  were  a  hardened  set 
of  villains,  if  the  human  countenance  can  be  relied 
upon  as  showing  forth  the  inner  man.  They  rushed 
towards  the  animal  and  flaunted  their  flags  before 
his  eyes,  striving  to  excite  and  draw  him  on  to  attack 
them.  They  seemed  reckless,  but  very  expert,  agile, 
and  wary.  Every  effort  was  made  to  worry  and  tor- 
ment the  bull  to  a  state  of  frenzy.  Barbs  were 
thrust  into  his  neck  and  back  by  the  banderilleros, 
with  small  rockets  attached.  These  exploded  into 
his  very  flesh,  which  they  burned  and  tore.  Thrusts 
from  the  horsemen's  spears  also  gave  liarsh,  if  not 
dangerous  wounds,  so  that  the  animal  bled  freely 
at  many  points. 

When  the  infuriated  beast  made  a  rush  at  one  of 
his  tormentors,  they  adroitly  sprang  on  one  side,  or, 
if  too  closely  pressed,  these  practiced  athletes  with  a 
handspring  leaped  over  the  high  board  fence.  Which- 
ever way  he  turned  the  bull  met  a  fresh  enemy  and 
another  device  of  torment,  until  at  last  the  poor 
creature  was  frantically  mad.    The  fight  then  became 


224 


DUE  SOUTH. 


more  earnest,  the  bull  rushing  first  at  one  and  tlien 
another  of  his  enemies,  but  the  practiced  figliters  were 
too  wary  for  him  ;  he  coukl  not  change  position  so 
quickly  as  they  could.  Finally,  the  bull  turned  his 
attention  to  the  horses  and  made  madly  first  at  the 
one  which  was  nearest,  and  though  he  received  a 
tearing  wound  along  his  spine  from  the  horseman's 
spear,  he  ripped  the  horse's  bowels  open  with  his 
horns  and  threw  him  upon  the  ground,  with  his  rider 
under  him.  The  men  on  foot  rushed  to  the  rescue 
and  drew  off  the  bull  by  fresh  attacks  and  by  flaunt- 
ing the  flags  before  his  eyes.  In  the  mean  time,  the 
rider  was  got  out  from  beneath  the  horse,  which  lay  dy- 
ing. The  bull,  finding  that  he  could  revt^nge  himself 
on  the  horses,  transferred  his  attention  to  the  other 
and  threw  him  to  the  ground  with  his  rider,  but 
received  another  long  wound  upon  his  own  back. 
Leaving  the  two  horses  lying  nearly  dead,  the  bull 
again  turned  upon  the  banderilleros,  rushing  with  such 
hendlong  speed  at  them  that  he  buried  his  sharp 
horns  several  inches  in  the  timbers  of  the  fence.  It 
was  even  a  struggle  for  him  to  extract  them.  The 
purpose  is  not  to  give  the  bull  any  fatal  wounds,  but 
to  worry  and  torment  him  to  the  last  degree  of  en- 
durance. This  struggle  was  kept  up  for  twenty 
minutes  or  more,  when  the  poor  creature,  bleeding 
from  a  hundred  wounds,  seemed  nearly  exhausted. 
Then,  at  a  sign  from  the  director,  there  was  a  grand 
flourish  of  trumpets,  and  the  matador,  a  skillful 
swordsman  and  the  hero  of  the  occasion,  entered 
the  ring  to  close  with  the  bull,  singly.  The  other 
fighters  withdrew  and  the  matador  advanced  with  a 
scarlet  flag  in  one  hand  and  his  naked  sword  in  the 
other.     The  bull  stood  at  bay,  too  much  worn  by 


A  MURDEROUS  DRAMA. 


225 


the  fight  and  loss  of  blood  to  voluntarily  attack  this 
single  enemy.  The  matador  advanced  and  lured  him 
to  an  attack  by  flaunting  his  flag.  A  few  feeble 
rushes  were  made  by  the  bleeding  animal,  until,  in  a 
last  effort  to  drive  his  horns  into  this  new  enemy,  he 
staggered  lieavily  forward.  This  time  the  matador 
did  not  leap  to  one  side,  but  received  the  bull  upon 
the  point  of  his  Toledo  blade,  which  was  aimed  at  a 
spot  just  back  of  the  horns,  where  the  brain  meets  the 
spinal  column.  As  the  bull  comes  on  with  his  head 
bent  down  to  the  charge,  this  spot  is  exposed,  and 
forms  a  fair  target  for  a  practiced  hand.  The  effect 
was  electrical.  The  bull  stnggered,  reeled  from  side 
to  side  for  an  instant,  and  then  fell  dead.  Four  bulls 
were  destroyed  in  a  like  manner  that  afternoon,  and, 
in  their  gallant  fight  for  their  lives,  they  killed  seven 
horses,  trampling  their  riders  in  two  instances  almost 
fatally,  though  they  are  protected  by  a  sort  of  leather 
armor  on  their  limbs  and  body.  During  the  fight 
with  the  second  bull,  which  was  an  extremely  fierce 
and  powerful  creature,  a  young  girl  of  eighteen 
dressed  in  male  attire,  who  was  trained  to  the  brutal 
business,  took  an  active  part  in  the  arena  with  the 
banderilleros.  One  remarkable  feat  which  she  per- 
formed was  that  of  leaping  by  means  of  a  pole 
completely  over  the  bull  when  he  was  charging  at 
her.  At  Madrid,  where  the  author  witnessed  a  sim- 
ilar exhibition,  the  intr-oduction  of  a  young  girl 
among  the  fighters  was  omitted,  but  otherwise  the 
performance  was  nearly  identical.  At  the  close  of 
each  act  of  the  murderous  drama,  six  horses  gayly 
caparisoned  with  bells  and  plumes  dashed  into  the 
arena  led  by  attendants,  and  chains  being  attached  to 
the  bodies  of  the  dead  animals,  they  were  drawn  out 

15 


226 


DUE  SOUTH, 


at  great  speed  through  a  gate  opened  for  the  purpose, 
amid  another  flourish  of  trumpets  and  the  shouts  of 
the  excited  multitude. 

The  worst  of  all  this  is  that  the  influence  of  such 
outrageous  cruelty  is  lasting.  It  infects  the  beholders 
with  a  like  spirit.  In  fact,  it  is  contagious.  We  all 
know  how  hard  the  English  people  became  in  the 
time  of  Henry  VIII.  and  Bloody  Mary. 

In  this  struggle  of  the  bull  ring  there  is  no  gal- 
lantry or  true  bravery  displayed  on  the  part  of  the 
professional  fighters.  They  run  but  little  personal 
risk,  practiced  as  they  are,  sheltered  and  protected 
by  artificial  means  and  armed  with  keen  weapons, 
whereas  the  bull  has  only  his  horns  to  protect  him- 
self from  his  many  tormentors.  There  is  no  possible 
escape  for  him  ;  his  fate  is  sealed  from  the  moment 
he  enters  the  ring.  All  the  true  bravery  exhibited 
is  on  his  part ;  he  is  always  the  attacking  party, 
and  were  the  exhibition  to  be  attempted  in  an  open 
field,  even  armed  as  they  are,  he  would  drive  every 
one  of  his  enemies  out  of  sight.  The  much-lauded 
matador  does  not  take  his  position  in  front  of  the 
animal  until  it  is  very  nearly  exhausted  by  loss  of 
blood  and  long-continued,  furious  fighting.  In  our 
estimation,  he  encounters  far  less  risk  than  does  the 
humblest  of  the  banderilleros  or  chulos,  who  torment 
the  bull  face  to  face  in  the  fullness  of  his  physical 
strength  and  courage.  Still,  instances  are  not  want- 
ing wherein  these  matadors  have  been  seriously 
wounded  and  even  killed  by  a  frantic  and  dying  bull, 
who  has  roused  himself  for  a  last  final  struggle. 

Whatever  colonial  modification  the  Spanish  char- 
acter may  have  apparently  undergone  in  Cuba,  the 
Creole  is  Castilian  still  in  his  love  for  the  cruel  sports 


A  NATIONAL  INSTITUTION 


227 


of  the  arena.  Great  is  the  similitude  also  between 
the  modern  Spaniard  and  the  ancient  Roman  in  this 
respect.  As  the  Spanish  hmguage  more  closely 
resembles  Latin  than  does  the  Italian,  so  do  the 
Spanish  people  show  more  of  Roman  blood  than  the 
natives  of  Italy  themselves.  Partem  et  circenses 
(bread  and  circuses !)  was  the  cry  of  the  old  Roman 
populace,  and  to  gratify  their  wishes  millions  of 
sesterces  were  lavished,  and  hecatombs  of  human 
victims  slain  in  the  splendid  amphitheatres  erected 
by  the  masters  of  the  world  in  all  the  cities  subject 
to  their  sway.  And  so  pan  y  toros  (bread  and  bulls  !) 
is  the  imperious  demand  of  the  Spaniards,  to  which 
the  government  is  forced  to  respond.  The  parallel 
may  be  pursued  still  further.  The  proudest  ladies  of 
Rome,  maids  and  matrons,  gazed  with  liveliest  interest 
upon  the  dying  gladiators  who  hewed  each  other  in 
pieces,  or  on  the  Christians  who  perished  in  conflict 
with  the  wild  beasts,  half  starved  to  give  them  bat- 
tle. So  the  seiioras  and  seiioritas  of  Madrid,  Seville, 
Malaga,  and  Havana  enjoy,  with  keen  delight,  the 
terrible  spectacle  of  bulls  slaughtered  by  picadors 
and  matadors,  and  gallant  horses  ripped  up  and  dis- 
emboweled by  the  horns  of  their  brute  adversaries. 
It  is  true  that  the  ameliorating  spirit  of  Christianity 
is  evinced  in  the  changes  which  the  arena  has  under- 
gone. Human  lives  are  no  longer  designedly  sacrificed 
wholesale  in  the  bloody  contests,  yet  the  bull-fight  is 
sufficiently  barbarous  and- atrocious.  It  is  a  national 
institution,  indicative  of  national  character. 

To  look  upon  the  serenity  of  Cuban  ladies,  driving, 
in  the  Paseo  or  listening  to  the  nightly  music  in  the 
Plaza  de  Isabella,  one  could  not  possibly  imagine 
them  to  be  lacking  in  tenderness,  or  that  there  was 


228 


DUE  SOUTH. 


in  them  sufficient  hardihood  to  witness  such  exhibi- 
tions as  we  have  described,  and  yet  one  third  of  the 
audience  on  the  occasion  spoken  of  was  composed  of 
the  gentler  sex.  They  are  abnost  universally  hand- 
some, being  rather  below  the  average  height  of  the  sex 
with  us,  but  possessing  an  erect  and  dignified  carriage. 
Their  form,  always  rounded  to  a  delicate  fulhiess,  is 
quite  perfection  in  point  of  model.  Their  dark  liair 
and  olive  complexions  are  well  matched,  —  the  latter 
without  a  particle  of  natural  carmine.  The  eyes  are 
a  match  for  the  hair,  being  large  and  beautifully 
expressive,  with  a  most  irresistible  dash  of  languor 
in  them,  —  but  not  the  languor  of  illness.  It  is  really 
difficult  to  conceive  of  an  ugly  woman  with  such  eyes 
as  they  all  possess  in  Cuba,  —  the  Moorish,  Anda- 
lusian  eye.  The  Cuban  women  have  also  been  justly 
famed  for  their  graceful  carriage,  and  it  is  indeed  the 
poetry  of  motion,  singular  as  it  may  appear,  when  it 
is  remembered  that  for  them  to  walk  abroad  is  such 
a  rarity.  It  is  not  the  simple  progressive  motion 
alone,  but  also  the  harmonious  play  of  features,  the 
coquettish  undulation  of  the  face,  the  exquisite  dis- 
position of  costume,  and  the  modulation  of  voice,  that 
engage  the  beholder  and  lend  a  happy  charm  to 
every  attitude  and  every  step. 

The  gentlemen  as  a  rule  are  good-looking,  though 
they  are  much  smaller,  lighter,  and  more  agile  than 
the  average  American.  The  lazy  life  they  so  uni- 
versally lead  tends  to  make  them  less  manly  than  a 
more  active  one  would  do.  It  seems  to  be  a  rule 
among  them  never  to  do  for  themselves  that  which  a 
slave  can  do  for  them.  This  is  demonstrated  in  the 
style  of  the  volante,  where  the  small  horse  is  made 
not  only  to  draw  the  vehicle,  but  also  to  carry  a  large 


SPANISH  TITLES. 


229 


negro  on  his  back  as  driver.  Now,  if  reins  were  used, 
there  would  be  no  occasion  for  the  postilion  at  all,  but 
a  Spaniard  or  Creole  would  think  it  demeaning  to 
drive  his  own  vehicle.  With  abundance  of  leisure, 
and  the  ever  present  influences  of  their  genial  clime, 
where  the  heart's  blood  leaps  more  swiftly  to  the 
promptings  of  the  imagination  and  where  the  female 
form  earliest  attains  its  maturity,  the  West  Indians 
seem  peculiarly  adapted  for  romance  and  for  love. 
The  consequent  adventures  constantly  occurring 
among  them  often  culminate  in  startling  tragedies, 
and  afford  plots  in  which  a  French  feuilletonist  would 
revel. 

The  nobility  of  Cuba,  so  called,  is  composed  of 
rather  homespun  material,  to  say  the  least  of  it. 
There  may  be  some  fifty  individuals  dubbed  with  the 
title  of  marquis,  and  as  many  more  with  that  of  count, 
most  of  whom  have  acquired  their  wealth  and  position 
by  carrying  on  extensive  sugar  plantations.  These 
are  sneeringly  designated  by  the  humble  classes  as 
sugar  noblemen,  and  not  inappropriately  so,  as  nearly 
all  of  these  aristocratic  gentlemen  have  purchased 
their  titles  outright  for  money.  Not  the  least  consid- 
eration is  exercised  by  the  Spanish  throne  as  to  the 
fitness  of  these  ambitious  individuals  for  honoi-ary 
distinction.  It  is  a  mere  question  of  money,  and  if 
this  be  forthcoming  the  title  follows  as  a  natural 
sequence.  Twenty-five  thousand  dollars  will  pur- 
chase any  title.  Such  things  are  done  in  other  lands, 
but  not  quite  so  openly.  And  yet  the  tone  of  Cuban 
society  in  its  higher  circles  is  found  to  be  rather 
aristocratic  and  exclusive.  The  native  of  Old  Spain 
does  not  endeavor  to  conceal  his  contempt  for  foreign- 
ers of  all  classes,  and  as  to  the  Creoles,  he  simply 


230 


DUE  SOUTH. 


scorns  to  meet  tliem  on  social  grounds,  shielding  his 
inferiority  of  intelligence  under  a  cloak  of  hauteur, 
assuming  the  wings  of  the  eagle,  but  possessing  only 
the  eyes  of  the  owl.  Thus  the  Castiiians  and  Creoles 
are  ever  at  antagonism,  both  socially  and  politically. 
The  bitterness  of  feeling  existing  between  them  can 
hardly  be  exaggerated.  The  sugar  planter,  the  coffee 
planter,  the  merchant,  and  the  liberal  professions 
stand  in  the  order  in  which  we  have  named  them,  as 
regards  tlieir  relative  degree  of  social  importance,  but 
wealth,  in  fact,  has  the  same  charm  liere  as  elsewhere 
in  Christendom,  and  the  millionaire  has  the  entree  to 
all  classes. 

The  ]Monteros  or  yeomanry  of  the  island  inhabit 
the  less  cultivated  and  cheaper  portions  of  the  soil, 
entering  the  cities  only  to  dispose  of  their  surplus 
proiluce.  and  acting  as  the  marketmen  of  the  popu- 
lous districts.  When  they  stir  abroad,  in  nearly  all 
parts  of  the  island,  they  are  armed  with  a  sword,  and 
in  the  eastern  sections  about  Santiago,  or  even  Cien- 
fuegos.  they  also  carry  pistols  in  the  holsters  of  their 
saddles.  Formerly  this  was  indispensable  for  self- 
protection,  but  at  this  time  weapons  are  more  rarely 
worn.  Still  the  arming  of  the  Jlonteros  has  always 
been  encouraged  by  the  authorities,  as  they  form  a 
sort  of  militia  at  all  times  available  against  negro 
insurrection,  a  calamity  in  fear  of  which  such  com- 
munities must  always  live.  The  Montero  is  rarely  a 
slaveholder,  but  is  frequently  engaged  on  the  sugar 
plantations  during  the  busy  season  as  an  overseer, 
and,  to  his  discredit  be  it  said,  he  generally  proves 
to  be  a  hard  taskmaster,  entertaining  an  intuitive  dis- 
like to  the  negroes. 

An  evidence  of  the  contagious  character  of  cruelty 


THE  MONTEROS. 


281 


was  given  in  a  circumstance  coming  under  the  au- 
thor's observation  on  a  certain  plantation  at  Alqui- 
zar,  where  a  manifest  piece  of  severity  led  him  to  ap- 
peal to  the  proprietor  in  behalf  of  a  female  slave. 
The  request  for  mercy  was  promptly  granted,  and 
the  acting  overseer,  himself  a  mulatto,  was  quietly 
reprimanded  for  his  cruelty.  You  will  find,"  said 
.  our  host,  that  colored  men  always  make  the  hardest 
masters  when  placed  over  their  own  race,  but  they 
have  heretofore  been  much  employed  on  the  island 
in  this  capacity,  because  a  sense  of  pride  makes  them 
faithful  to  the  proprietor's  interest.  That  man  is 
himself  a  slave,"  he  added,  pointing  to  the  sub-over- 
seer, who  still  stood  among  the  negroes,  whip  in 
hand. 

Tlie  Montero  sometimes  hires  a  free  colored  man 
to  help  him  in  the  planting  season  on  his  little  patch 
of  vegetable  garden,  in  such  work  as  a  Yankee  would 
do  for  himself,  but  these  small  farmers  trust  mostly 
to  the  exuberant  fertility  of  the  soil,  and  spare  them- 
selves all  manual  labor,  save  that  of  gathering  the 
produce  and  taking  it  to  market.  They  form,  never- 
theless, a  very  important  and  interesting  class  of  the 
population.  They  marry  very  young,  the  girls  at 
thirteen  and  fifteen,  the  young  men  from  sixteen  to 
eighteen,  and  almost  invariably  rear  large  families. 
Pineapples  and  children  are  a  remarkably  sure  crop 
in  the  tropics.  The  increase  among  them  during  the 
last  half  centurj^  has  been  very  large,  much  more  in 
proportion  than  in  any  other  class  of  the  community, 
and  they  seem  to  be  approaching  a  degree  of  impor- 
tance, at  least  numerically,  which  will  render  them 
eventually  like  the  American  farmers,  the  bone  and 
sinew  of  the  land.    There  is  room  enough  for  them 


232 


DUE  SOUTH. 


and  to  spare,  for  hardly  more  than  one  tenth  of  the 
Lxnd  is  under  actual  cultivation,  a  vast  portion  being 
still  covered  by  virgin  forests  and  uncleared  savannas. 
The  great  and*  glaring  misfortune  —  next  to  that  of 
living  under  a  government  permitting  neither  civil 
nor  religious  liberty,  wiiere  church  and  state  are  alike 
debased  as  the  tools  of  despotism,  —  is  their  want  of 
educational  facilities.  Books  and  schools  they  have 
none.  Barbarism  itself  is  scarcely  less  cultured.  We 
were  told  that  the  people  had  of  late  been  somewhat 
aroused  from  this  condition  of  lethargy  concerning 
education,  and  some  effort  has  recently  been  made 
among  the  more  intelligent  to  affoi'd  their  children 
opportunities  for  instruction.  But  at  the  present 
writing,  the  Egyptian  fellah  is  not  more  ignorant 
than  the  rural  population  of  Cuba,  who  as  a  mass 
possess  all  the  indolence  and  few  of  the  virtues  of 
the  aborigines. 

There  is  one  highly  creditable  characteristic  evinced 
by  the  Monteros  as  a  class,  and  that  is  their  temper- 
ate habits  in  regard  to  indulgence  in  stimulating 
drinks.  As  a  beverage  they  do  not  use  ardent  spirits, 
and  seem  to  have  no  taste  or  desire  for  the  article, 
though  they  drink  the  ordinary  claret  —  rarely  any- 
thing stronger.  This  applies  to  the  country  people, 
not  to  the  residents  of  the  cities.  The  latter  quickly 
contract  the  habit  of  gin  drinking,  as  already  described. 
There  is  one  prominent  vice  to  which  the  Monteros 
are  indisputably  addicted  ;  namely,  that  of  gambling. 
It  seems  to  be  a  natural  as  well  as  a  national  trait, 
tho  appliances  for  which  are  so  constantly  at  hand  in 
the  form  of  lottery  tickets  and  the  cock-pits  that  they 
can  hardly  escape  the  baleful  influences.  There  are 
some  who  possess  sufficient  strength  of  character  and 


THE  PUBLIC  MARKET. 


233 


intelligence  to  avoid  it  altogether,  but  with  the  ma- 
jority it  is  the  regular  resort  for  each  leisure  hour. 
One  of  their  own  statesmen,  Castelar,  told  the  Span- 
iards, not  long  since,  that  gambling  was  the  tax  laid 
upon  fools. 

Perhaps  tlie  best  place  at  which  to  study  the  appear- 
ance and  character  of  the  Monteros  is  at  the  Central 
Market,  where  they  come  daily  by  hundreds  from 
the  country  in  the  early  morning  to  sell  their  prod- 
uce, accompanied  by  long  lines  of  mules  or  horses 
with  well-laden  pannier^.  It  is  a  motley  crowd  that 
one  meets  there,  where  purchasers  and  salesmen 
mingle  promiscuously.  From  six  to  nine  o'clock, 
A.  M.,  it  is  the  busiest  place  in  all  Havana.  Negroes 
and  mulattoes,  Creoles  and  Spaniards,  Chinamen  and 
Monteros,  men  and  women,  beggars,  purchasers,  and 
slaves,  all  come  to  the  market  on  the  Calzada  de  la 
Reina.  Here  the  display  of  fruits  and  vegetables  is 
something  marvelous,  both  in  variety  and  in  pictur- 
esqueness  of  arrangement.  This  locality  is  th^  natu- 
ral resort  of  the  mendicants,  who  pick  up  a  trifle  in 
the  way  of  provisions  from  one  and  another,  as  people 
who  do  not  feel  disposed  to  bestow  money  will  often 
give  food  to  the  indigent.  This  market  was  the  only 
place  in  the  city  where  it  was  possible  to  purchase 
flowers,  but  liere  one  or  two  humble  dealers  came  at 
early  morn  to  dispose  of  such  buds  and  blossoms  as 
they  found  in  demand.  A  blind  Chinese  coolie  was 
found  sitting  on  the  sidewalk  every  morning,  at  the 
corner  of  the  Calzada  de  la  Reina,  just  opposite  the 
market,  and  he  elicited  a  trifle  from  us  wow  and  again. 
One  morning  a  couple  of  roses  and  a  sprig  of  lemon 
verbena  were  added  to  his  small  gratuity.  The  effect 
upon  that  sightless  countenance  was  electrical  and 


234 


DUE  SOUTH. 


the  poor  mendicant,  having  only  pantomime  with 
which  to  express  his  delight,  seemed  half  frantic. 
The  money  fell  to  the  ground,  but  the  flowers  were 
pressed  passionately  to  his  breast. 

Did  it  remind  him,  we  thought,  of  perfumes  which 
had  once  delighted  his  youthful  senses  in  far-off  Asia, 
before  he  had  been  decoyed  to  a  foreign  land  and 
into  semi-slavery,  to  be  deprived  of  health,  liberty, 
sight,  hope,  everything  ? 

The  Cuban  beggars  have  a  dash  of  originality  in 
their  ideas  as  to  the  successful  prosecution  of  their 
calling  ;  we  mean  those  native  and  to  the  manor 
born."  Some  of  them  possess  two  and  even  three 
cadaverous  dogs,  taught  to  follow  closely  at  their 
heels,  as  they  wander  about,  and  having  the  same 
shriveled-up,  half-starved  aspect  as  their  masters. 
One  beggar,  who  was  quite  a  cripple,  had  his  daily 
seat  in  a  sort  of  wheelbarrow,  at  the  corner  of  Paseo 
Street,  opposite  the  Plaza  de  Isabella.  This  man 
was  always  accompanied  by  a  parrot  of  gaudy  plu- 
mage, perched  familiarly  on  his  shoulder.  Now  and 
then  the  cripple  put  some  favorite  bird-food  between 
his  own  lips,  which  the  parrot  extracted  and  appro- 
priated with  such  promptness  as  to  indicate  a  good 
appetite.  Another  solicitor  of  alms,  quite  old  and 
bent,  had  an  amusing  companion  in  a  little  gray 
squirrel,  with  a  collar  and  string  attached,  the  animal 
being  as  mischievous  as  a  monkey,  now  and  then 
hiding  in  one  of  the  mendicant's  several  pockets, 
sometimes  coming  forth  to  crack  and  eat  a  nut  upon 
his  owner's  shoulder.  A  blind  beggar,  of  Creole 
nationality,  sat  all  day  long  in  the  hot  sun,  on  the 
Alameda  de  Paula  near  the  Hotel  San  Carlos,  whose 
companion  was  a  chimpanzee  monkey.     The  little 


A  SINGULAR  CHARACTER, 


235 


lialf-liuman  creature  held  out  its  hand  with  a  piteous 
expression  to  every  passer-by,  and  deposited  whatever 
he  received  in  his  master's  pocket.  These  pets  serve 
to  attract  attention,  if  not  commiseration,  and  we 
observed  that  the  men  did  not  beg  in  vain. 

The  acme  of  originahty,  however,  was  certainly 
reached  in  the  case  of  a  remarkable  Creole  beggar 
whose  regular  post  is  on  the  west  corner  of  the  Cen- 
tral Market.  This  man  is  perhaps  thirty-five  or  forty 
years  of  age,  and  possesses  a  fine  head,  a  handsome 
face,  and  piercing  black  eyes.  He  is  of  small  body, 
and  his  lower  limbs  are  so  withered  as  to  be  entirely 
useless ;  so  he  sits  with  them  curled  up  in  a  low,  broad 
basket,  in  which  he  is  daily  brought  to  the  spot,  lo- 
comotion in  his  case  being  out  of  the  question.  He 
wears  the  cleanest  of  linen,  and  his  faultless  cuffs 
and  ruflled  shirt-bosom  are  decked  with  solid  gold 
studs.  He  is  bareheaded,  but  his  thick  black  hair  is 
carefully  dressed,  and  parted  with  mathematical  pre- 
cision in  the  middle.  He  wears  neither  coat  nor  vest, 
but  his  lower  garments  are  neatly  adapted  to  his 
deformity,  and  are  of  broadcloth.  This  man  does  not 
utter  a  word,  but  extends  his  hand  pleasantly,  with 
an  appealing  look  from  his  handsome  eyes,  which 
often  elicits  a  silver  real  from  the  passer-by.  We 
acknowledge  to  having  been  thus  influenced  more 
than  once,  in  our  morning  walks,  by  a  sympathy 
which  it  would  be  difficult  to  analyze.  We  had  seen 
a  colored  dude  selling  canes  at  Nassau,  but  a  dude 
mendicant,  and  a  cripple  at  that,  was  a  physical 
anomaly. 


CHAPTER  XII. 


Introduction  of  Sugar- Cane.  —  Sugar  Plantations.  —  Mode  of  Manu- 
facture.—  Slaves  on  the  Plantations. — African  Amusements. — 
The  Grinding  Season.  — The  Coffee  Plantations.  —  A  Floral  Par- 
adise.—  Kefugees  from  St.  Domingo.  —  Interesting  Experiments 
with  a  Mimovsa.  —  Three  Staple  Productions  of  Cuba.  —  liaising 
Coffee  and  Tobacco. —  Best  Soils  for  the  Tobacco.  —  Agricultural 
Possibilities.  —  The  Cuban  Fire-Fly.  — A  Much-Dreaded  Insect.  — 
The  Ceiba  Tree.  —  About  Horses  and  Oxen. 

The  first  sugar  plantation  established  in  Cuba  was 
in  1595,  nearly  three  Imiidred  years  since.  These 
plantations  are  the  least  attractive  in  external  appear- 
ance, but  the  most  profitable  pecuniarily,  of  all  agri- 
cultural investments  in  the  tropics,  though  at  the 
present  writing  there  is  a  depression  in  prices  of 
sugar  which  has  brought  about  a  serious  complica- 
tion of  affairs.  The  markets  of  the  world  have 
become  glutted  with  the  article,  owing  to  the  enor- 
mous over-production  in  Europe  from  the  beet.  The 
plantations  devoted  to  the  raising  of  the  sugar-cane 
in  Cuba  spread  out  their  extensive  fields,  covered 
with  the  corn-like  stalks,  without  any  relief  to  the 
eye,  though  here  and  there  the  graceful  feathery 
branches  of  the  palm  are  seen.  The  fields  are 
divided  off  into  squares  of  three  or  four  acres  each, 
between  which  a  roadway  is  left  for  ox-teams  to  pass 
for  gathering  purposes.  On  some  of  the  largest 
estates  tramways  have  been  laid,  reaching  from  the 
several  sections  of  the  plantation  to  the  doors  of  the 
grinding-mill.    A  mule,  by  this  means,  is  enabled  to 


SUGAR  PLANTATIONS. 


237 


draw  as  large  a  load  as  a  pair  of  oxen  on  plain 
ground,  and  with  much  more  ease  and  promptness. 

About  the  houses  of  the  owner  and  the  overseer, 
graceful  fruit  trees,  such  as  bananas  and  cocoanuts, 
with  some  flowering  and  fragrant  plants,  are  grouped, 
forming  inviting  shade  and  producing  a  picturesque 
effect.  Not  far  away,  the  low  cabins  of  the  bUicks 
are  half  hidden  by  plantain  and  mango  trees,  sur- 
rounded by  cultivated  patches  devoted  to  yams, 
sweet  potatoes,  and  the  like.  Some  of  the  small 
gardens  planted  by  these  dusky  Africans  showed 
judgment  and  taste  in  their  management.  Chickens 
and  pigs,  which  were  the  private  property  of  the 
negroes,  were  cooped  up  just  behind  the  cabins. 
Many  of  these  plantations  employ  from  four  to  five 
hundred  blacks,  and  in  some  instances  the  num- 
ber will  reach  seven  hundred  on  extensive  estates, 
though  the  tendency  of  the  new  and  improved  ma- 
chinery is  to  constantly  reduce  the  number  of  hands 
required,  and  to  increase  the  degree  of  intelligence 
necessary  in  those  employed.  Added  to  these  em- 
ployees there  must  also  be  many  head  of  cattle,  — 
oxen,  horses,  and  mules.  The  annual  running  expen- 
diture of  one  of  these  large  estates  will  reach  two 
Imndred  thousand  dollars,  more  or  less,  for  which 
outlay  there  is  realized,  under  favorable  circumstan- 
ces, a  million  five  hundred  thousand  pounds  of  sugar, 
worth,  in  good  seasons,  five  cents  per  pound  at  the 
nearest  shipping  point. 

There  are  a  few  of  the  small  estates  which  still  era- 
ploy  ox-power  for  grinding  the  cane,  but  American 
steam-engines  have  almost  entirely  taken  the  place  of 
animal  power  ;  indeed,  as  we  have  shown,  it  will  no 
longer  pay  to  produce  sugar  by  the  primitive  proc- 


238 


DUE  SOUTH. 


esses.  Tliis  creates  a  constant  demand  for  engineers 
and  machinists,  for  whom  the  Cubans  depend  upon 
this  country.  We  were  told  that  there  were  not  less 
than  two  hundred  Bostonians  at  the  present  time  thus 
engaged  on  Cuban  estates.  A  Spaniard  or  Creole 
would  as  soon  attempt  to  fl}^  like  a  bird  as  to  learn 
how  to  run  a  steam-engine  or  regulate  a  line  of  shaft- 
ing. It  requires  more  intelligence  and  meclianical 
skill,  as  a  rule,  than  the  most  faithful  slaves  possess. 
A  careful  calculation  shows  that  in  return  for  the 
services  of  this  small  band  of  employees  taken  from 
our  shores,  this  country  takes  eighty  per  cent,  of  all 
the  sugar  produced  upon  the  island !  Twelve  per 
cent,  is  consumed  by  peninsular  Spain,  thus  leaving 
but  eight  per  cent,  of  this  product  for  distribution 
elsewhere. 

During  the  grinding  season,  which  begins  about 
the  first  of  December  and  ends  in  April,  a  large, 
well-managed  sugar  plantation  in  Cuba  is  a  scene 
of  the  utmost  activity  and  most  unremitting  labor. 
Time  is  doubly  precious  during  the  harvesting  period, 
for  when  the  cane  is  ripe  there  should  be  no  delay  in 
expressing  the  juice.  If  left  too  long  in  the  field  it  be- 
comes crystallized,  deteriorating  both  in  its  quality 
and  in  the  amount  of  juice  which  is  obtained.  The 
oxen  employed  often  die  before  the  season  is  at  an 
end,  from  overwork  beneath  a  torrid  sun.  The 
slaves  are  allowed  but  four  or  five  hours  sleep  out  of 
the  twenty-four,  and  being  worked  by  watches  during 
the  night,  the  mill  does  not  lie  idle  for  an  hour  after 
it  is  started  until  the  grinding  season  is  closed.  If 
the  slaves  are  thus  driven  during  this  period,  through- 
out the  rest  of  the  year  their  task  is  comparatively 
light,  and  they  may  sleep  ten  hours  out  of  the  twenty. 


PLANTATION  AMUSEMENTS. 


239 


four,  if  they  choose.  According  to  the  Spanish  slave 
code,  —  always  more  or  less  of  a  dead  letter,  —  the 
blacks  can  be  kept  at  work  in  Cuba  only  from  sun- 
rise to  sunset,  with  an  interval  of  two  hours  for  re- 
pose and  food  in  the  middle  of  the  day.  But  this  is 
not  regarded  in  the  sugar  harvest  season,  which  period, 
after  all,  the  slaves  do  not  seem  so  much  to  dread, 
for  then  they  are  granted  more  privileges  and  are  bet- 
ter fed,  given  more  variety  of  food  and  many  other 
little  luxuries  which  they  are  known  to  prize. 

On  Sunday  afternoons  and  evenings  outmost  of  the 
plantations  the  slaves  are  given  their  time,  and  are 
permitted,  even  in  the  harvest  season,  to  amuse  them- 
selves after  their  own  chosen  fashion.  On  such  oc- 
casions the  privilege  is  often  improved  by  the  blacks 
to  indulge  in  native  African  dances,  crude  and  rude 
enough,  but  very  amusing  to  witness.  The  music 
for  the  dancers  is  supplied  by  a  houie-made  drum, 
and  by  that  alone,  the  negro  who  plays  it  being  to 
the  lookers-on  quite  as  much  of  a  curiosity  as  those 
who  perform  the  grotesque  dances.  This  humble 
musician  writhes,  wriggles,  twists  himself  like  a  cork- 
screw, and  all  the  while  beats  time,  accompanying 
his  notes  with  cries  and  howls,  reminding  one  of  the 
Apa^che  Indian  when  engaged  in  a  war  dance.  It  is 
astonishing  to  witness  to  what  a  degree  of  excitement 
this  negro  drummer  will  work  himself  up,  often  fairly 
frothing  at  the  mouth.  A  buxom  wench  and  her  mate 
step  forward  and  perform  a  wild,  sensuous  combina- 
tion of  movements,  a  sort  of  negro  can-can,  like  those 
dancing  girls  one  sees  in  India,  striving  to  express 
sentiments  of  love,  jealousy,  and  passion  by  their 
pantomime,  though  these  negroes  are  far  less  refined 
in  their  gestures.    When  these  two  are  exhausted. 


240 


DUE  SOUTH. 


others  take  their  place,  with  very  similar  movements. 
The  same  drummer  labors  ail  the  wliile,  perspiring 
copioiisl}^  and  seeming  to  get  his  full  share  of  sat- 
isfaction out  of  the  queer  performance.  This  is 
ahnost  their  only  amusement,  though  the  Chinese 
coolies  who  have  been  distributed  upon  the  planta- 
tions have  taught  the  negroes  some  of  their  queer 
games,  one,  particularly,  resembling  dominoes.  The 
author  saw  a  set  of  dominoes  made  out  of  native  ebony 
wood  by  an  African  slave,  which  w^ere  of  finer  finish 
than  machinery  turns  out,  delicately  inlaid  with  ivory 
from  alligators'  teeth,  indicating  the  points  up(m  each 
piece.  We  were  told  that  the  only  tool  the  maker 
had  with  which  to  execute  his  delicate  task  was  a 
rude  jack-knife.  We  have  said  that  the  negroes  find 
in  the  singular  dance  referred  to  their  one  amuse- 
ment, but  they  sometimes  engage  among  themselves 
in  a  game  of  ball,  after  a  fashion  all  their  own, 
which  it  would  drive  a  Yankee  base-ball  player  frantic 
to  attempt  to  analyze. 

The  sugar-cane  yields  but  one  crop  in  a  year. 
There  are  several  varieties,  but  the  Otaheitan  seems 
to  be  the  most  generally  cultivated.  Between  the 
time  when  enough  of  the  cane  is  ripe  to  warrant  the 
getting-up  of  steam  at  the  grinding-mill  and  the 
time  when  the  heat  and  the  rain  spoil  its  qualities, 
all  the  sugar  for  the  season  must  be  made ;  hence  the 
necessity  for  great  industry  on  the  large  estates.  In 
Louisiana  the  grinding  season  lasts  but  about  eight 
weeks.  In  Cuba  it  continues  four  months.  In  analyz- 
ing the  sugar  produced  on  the  island  and  comparing 
it  with  that  of  the  mainland,  —  the  growth  of  Louisi- 
ana,—  chemists  could  find  no  difference  as  to  the 
quality  of  the  true  saccharine  principle  contained  in 


PLANTER-PRIESTS. 


241 


each.  The  Cuban  sugar,  compared  with  beet-sugar, 
however,  is  said  to  yield  of  saccharine  matter  one 
quarter  more  in  any  given  quantity. 

In  society  the  sugar  phmter  holds  a  higher  rank 
than  the  coffee  planter,  as  we  have  already  intimated ; 
merely  in  the  scale  of  wealth,  however,  for  it  requires 
five  times  the  capital  to  carry  on  a  sugar  estate  that 
would  serve  for  a  coffee  estate.  Some  of  the  large 
sugar  plantations  have  been  owned  and  carried  on  by 
Jesuit  priests  —  we  were  about  to  write  ex-Jesuit 
priests,  but  that  would  not  be  quite  correct,  for  once 
a  member  of  this  order  one  is  bound  to  it  for  all 
time.  The  priest  or  acknowledged  member  of  the 
organization  may  be  forced  for  prudential  reasons  to 
temporarily  change  his  occupation,  but  he  cannot 
sever  himself  from  the  responsibilities  which  he  has 
once  voluntarily  assumed.  There  was  a  time  when 
much  of  the  landed  and  fertile  property  of  the  isl- 
and was  controlled  by  the  Church,  —  in  fact  owned 
by  it,  tiiough  often  by  very  questionable  titles.  The 
original  owners,  under  cunning  pressure,  perhaps  on 
a  threatened  death-bed,  were  induced  to  will  all  to 
the  Church ;  or  as  an  act  of  deep  penance  for  some 
crime  divulged  at  the  confessional,  they  yielded  up 
all.  To  preserve  this  property  and  possibly  to  cause 
it  to  produce  an  income  for  the  Church,  certain  priests 
became  active  planters.  Extreme  ecclesiastic  rule,  as 
has  been  said,  is  greatly  modified  in  Spain  and  her 
colonies,  the  natural  reaction  of  the  hateful  days  of 
the  Inquisition. 

As  the  sugar  plantation  surpasses  the  coffee  in 
wealth,  so  the  coffee  estate  surpasses  the  sugar  in 
every  natural  beauty  and  attractiveness.  A  coffee 
plantation,  well  and  properly  laid  out,  is  one  of  the 

16 


242 


DUE  SOUTH. 


most  beautiful  gardens  that  can  well  be  conceived  of, 
in  its  variety  and  loveliness  baffling  description.  An 
estate  devoted  to  this  purpose  usually  covers  a  hun- 
dred acres,  more  or  less,  planted  in  regular  squares  of 
one  acre  or  thereabouts,  intersected  by  broad  alleys 
lined  with  palms,  mangoes,  bananas,  oranges,  and 
other  fruits ;  as  the  coffee,  unlike  the  sugar  cane,  re- 
quires partial  protection  from  the  ardor  of  the  sun. 
Mingled  with  the  trees  are  lemons,  limes,  pomegran- 
ates. Cape  jasmines,  and  a  species  of  wild  heliotrope, 
fragrant  as  the  morning.  Occasionally  in  the  wide 
reach  of  the  estate  there  is  seen  a  solitary,  broad- 
spreading  ceiba,  in  hermit-like  isolation  from  other 
trees,  but  shading  a  fragrant  undergrowth.  Conceive 
of  this  beautiful  arrangement,  and  then  of  the  whole 
when  in  flower ;  the  coffee,  with  its  milk-white  blos- 
soms, so  abundant  that  it  seems  as  though  a  pure 
white  cloud  of  snow  had  fallen  there,  and  left  the  rest 
of  the  vegetation  fresh  and  gieen.  Interspersed  in 
these  fragrant  alleys  dividing  the  coffee  plants  is  the 
red  of  the  Mexican  rose,  the  flowering  pomegranate, 
the  j^ellow^  jasmine,  and  the  large,  gaudy  flow^er  of  the 
penon,  shrouding  its  parent  stem  in  a  cloak  of  scarlet. 
Here  too  are  seen  clusters  of  the  graceful  yellow 
flag,  and  many  wild  flow^ers,  unknown  by  name,  en- 
twining their  tender  stems  about  the  base  of  the 
fruit  trees.  In  short,  a  coffee  plantation  is  a  perfect 
floral  paradise,  full  of  fragrance  and  repose. 

The  writer's  experience  was  mainly  gained  at  and 
about  the  estate  of  the  late  Dr.  Finley,  a  Scotch 
ph3'sician  long  resident  upon  the  island.  He  had 
named  his  plantation  after  the  custom  with  a  fancy 
title,  and  called  it  Buena  Esperanza.  Here  was  seen 
the  mignonette  tree  twenty  feet  high,  full  of  pale 


REFUGEES  FROM  SAN  DOMINGO. 


243 


yellow  and  green  blossoms,  as  fragrant  as  is  its  little 
namesake,  which  we  pet  in  our  conservatories.  There 
were  also  fuchsias,  blue,  red,  yellow,  and  green,  this 
last  hue  quite  new  to  us.  The  night-blooming  cereus 
was  m  rank  abundance,  together  with  the  flor  de  pa- 
scua,  or  Easter  flower,  so  lovely  in  its  cream-colored, 
wax-like  blossom.  The  Indian  poui,  with  its  saffron- 
colored  flowers,  was  strikingly  conspicuous,  and  there 
too  was  that  pleasant  little  favorite,  the  damask  rose. 
It  seemed  as  if  all  out-doors  was  an  exotic  garden, 
full  of  marvelous  beauty.  What  daily  miracles  na- 
ture is  performing  under  our  only  half-observant 
eyes  !  Behold,  where  the  paths  intersect  each  other, 
a  beautiful  convolvulus  has  entwined  itself  about  that 
dead  and  decaying  tree,  clothing  the  gray  old  trunk 
with  pale  but  lovely  flowers  ;  just  as  we  deck  our  hu- 
man dead  for  the  grave. 

It  was  the  revolution  in  San  Domingo  which  gave 
the  first  great  stimulus  to  the  culture  of  the  coffee 
plant  in  Cuba,  an  enterprise  which  has  gradually 
faded  out  in  the  last  decade,  though  not  absolutely 
obliterated.  The  refugees  from  the  o])posite  shore 
sought  shelter  wherever  they  could  find  it  among  the 
nearest  islands  of  the  Archipelago,  and  large  numbers 
made  their  new  homes  in  the  eastern  department  of 
Cuba,  near  the  cities  of  Trinidad  and  Santiago.  Here 
they  turned  lands  which  had  been  idle  for  three  and 
four  centuries  into  smiling  gardens,  and  the  produc- 
tion of  the  favorite  berry  became  very  profitable  for  a 
series  of  years,  many  cargoes  being  shipped  annually 
to  this  country  from  the  two  ports  just  named.  The 
production  of  sugar,  however,  has  always  maintained 
precedence,  dividing  the  honor  to-day  only  with  to- 
bacco in  the  manufactured  state.     Coffee  does  not 


2U 


DUE  SOUTH. 


figure  to  any  extent  in  the  statistics  of  exports.  Ex- 
orbitant taxation  and  the  cruel  ravages  of  civil  war, 
in  the  coffee  districts  especially,  are  largely  the  cause 
of  the  loss  of  an  important  and  profitable  industry. 

Some  amusing  experiments  with  a  mimosa  or  sensi- 
tive plant  served  to  fill  a  leisure  hour  at  Buena  Espe- 
ranza,  under  our  host's  intelligent  direction.  It  grew 
wild  and  luxuriantly  within  a  few  feet  of  the  broad 
piazza  of  the  country-house.  Close  by  it  was  a  morn- 
inrr-grlorv,  which  was  in  remarkable  fullness  and  fresh- 
ness  of  bloom,  its  gay  profuseness  of  purple,  pink, 
and  variegated  white  making  it  indeed  the  glory  of 
the  morning.  It  was  a  surprise  to  find  the  mimosa 
of  such  similar  habits  with  its  neighbor,  the  morning- 
glory,  regularly  folding  iLs  leaves  and  going  to  sleep 
when  the  shades  of  evening  deepened,  but  awaking 
bright  and  early  with  the  first  breath  of  the  morn. 
So  sensitive  is  this  most  curious  plant,  so  full  of 
nerves,  as  our  host  expressed  it,  that  it  would  not 
only  shrink  instantly,  like  unveiled  modesty,  at  the 
touch  of  one's  hand,  but  even  at  the  near  approach  of 
some  special  organisms,  ere  they  had  extended  a  hand 
towards  it.  Five  persons  tried  the  experiment  before 
the  sixth  illustrated  the  fact  that  touch  was  not  abso- 
lutely necessary  to  cause  the  leaves  to  shrivel  up  or 
shrink  through  seeming  fear.  Our  host  even  inti- 
mated that  when  the  mimosa  liad  become  familiar 
with  a  congenial  person  its  timidity  would  vanish,  and 
it  could  be  handled  gently  by  that  individual  without 
outraging  its  sensibility.  Of  this,  however,  we  saw 
no  positive  evidence.  If  Mr.  Darwin  had  supple- 
mented his  chapters  on  the  monkey  by  a  paper  relat- 
ing to  the  mimosa,  he  might  possibly  have  enabled 
us  to  find  a  mutual  confirmation  in  them  of  some 
fine-spun  theory. 


THREE  STAPLE  PRODUCTIONS.  245 


The  three  great  staple  productions  of  Cuba  are 
sugar,  the  sweetener ;  coffee,  the  tonic  ;  and  tobacco, 
the  narcotic  of  half  the  world.  The  first  of  these,  as 
we  have  shown,  is  the  greatest  source  of  wealth,  hav- 
ing also  the  preference  as  to  purity  and  excellence  over 
any  other  saccharine  production.  Its  manufacture 
also  yields  molasses,  which  forms  an  important  arti- 
cle of  export,  besides  which  a  spirituous  liquor,  called 
aguardiente,  is  distilled  in  considerable  quantities 
from  the  molasses.  The  cane,  which  grows  to  about 
the  size  of  a  large  walking-stick,  or  well-developed 
cornstalk,  is  cut  off  near  the  ground  and  conveyed  in 
the  green  state,  though  it  is  called  ripe,  to  the  mill, 
where  it  is  crushed  to  a  complete  pulp  between  stones 
or  iron  rollers.  After  the  juice  is  thus  extracted  the 
material  left  is  spread  out  in  tlie  sun  to  dry,  and  is 
after  being  thus cured  "  used  for  fuel  beneath  the 
steam-boilers,  which  afford  both  power  to  the  engine 
and  the  means  of  boiling  the  juice.  Lime-water  is 
employed  to  neutralize  any  free  acid  as  well  as  to 
separate  the  vegetable  matter.  The  granulation  and 
crystallization  are  effected  in  large  flat  pans,  or  now 
more  commonly  by  centrifugal  machines,  rotating  at 
great  speed.  It  is  then  crushed  and  packed  either  in 
hogsheads  or  in  boxes  for  exportation  ;  canvas  bags 
are  also  being  largely  employed,  as  they  are  easier  to 
pack  on  board  ship,  and  also  to  handle  generally.  A 
plantation  is  renewed  when  deemed  necessary,  by 
laying  the  green  canes  horizontally  in  the  ground, 
wlien  new  and  vigorous  shoots  spring  up  from  every 
joint,  showing  the  great  fertility  of  the  soil. 

Coffee  was  introduced  by  the  French  into  Marti- 
nique in  1727,  but  it  did  not  make  its  appearance  in 
Cuba  until  forty  years  later,  or,  to  be  exact,  in  1769. 


246 


DUE  SOUTH, 


The  decadence  of  this  branch  of  agriculture  is  due 
not  only  to  the  causes  we  have  already  named,  but 
also  to  the  inferior  mode  of  cultivation  adopted  on  the 
island.  It  was  predicted  some  years  before  it  com- 
menced, and  when  the  crash  came  the  markets  of 
the  world  were  also  found  to  be  greatly  overstocked 
with  the  article.  While  some  planters  introduced 
improved  methods  and  economy  in  the  conduct  of 
their  estates,  others  abandoned  the  business  alto- 
gether, and  turned  their  fields  either  into  sugar-rais- 
ing, fruits  or  tobacco.  Precisely  the  same  trouble 
was  experienced  in  the  island  of  Ceylon,  which  was 
at  one  time  a  great  coffee-raising  centre,  but  now  its 
planters  are  many  of  them  abandoning  the  business, 
while  others  adopt  new  seed  and  new  methods  of 
culture.  In  Cuba  it  was  found  that  the  plants  had 
been  grown  too  closely  together  and  subjected  to  too 
close  pruning,  while  the  product,  which  was  gathered 
by  hand,  yielded  a  mixture  of  ripe  and  unripe  berries. 
In  the  countries  where  coffee  originated,  a  very  differ- 
ent method  of  harvesting  is  adopted.  The  Arabs 
plant  the  coffee-shrubs  much  farther  apart,  allow  them 
to  grow  to  considerable  height,  and  gather  the  crop 
by  shaking  the  tree,  a  method  which  secures  only  the 
ripe  berries.  After  a  few  weeks,  or  even  days,  the 
field  is  gone  over  a  second  time,  when  the  green 
berries  have  become  fit  to  gather,  and  readily  fall  to 
the  ground. 

A  coffee  estate  well  managed,  that  is,  combined 
with  the  rearing  of  fruits  and  vegetables  intermingled, 
thus  affording  the  required  shade  for  the  main  crop, 
proves  fairly  profitable  in  Cuba  to-day,  and  were  this 
industry  not  hampered  and  handicapped  by  excessive' 
taxes,  it  would  attract  many  new  planters.  The 


COFFEE  ESTATES. 


247 


coffee  ripens  from  August  to  December,  the  nuts 
then  becoming  about  the  size  of  our  cherries.  The 
coffee-berry  is  the  seed  of  the  fruit,  two  of  which  are 
contained  in  each  kernel,  having  their  flat  surfaces 
together,  surrounded  by  a  soft  pulp.  The  ripe  ber- 
ries are  dried  by  exposure  to  the  sun's  rays,  then 
bruised  in  a  mill,  by  which  means  the  seeds  are 
separated  from  the  berry.  They  are  then  screened 
to  cleanse  them,  after  which  they  are  bagged,  and  the 
coffee  is  ready  for  market.  Some  plantei's  take  great 
care  to  sort  their  crop  by  hand,  in  which  operation 
the  negro  women  become  very  expert.  By  dividing 
the  berries  into  first  and  second  qualities  as  to  size 
and  cleanliness,  a  better  aggregated  price  is  realized 
for  the  entire  harvest.  Not  only  are  the  coffee  es- 
tates much  more  pleasing  to  the  eye  than  the  sugar 
plantations,  but  they  are  also  much  more  in  harmony 
with  the  feelings  of  the  philanthropist.  There  is  here 
no  such  exigency  in  getting  in  the  harvest,  leading 
to  the  overwork  of  the  slaves,  as  on  a  sugar  estate  in 
the  grinding  season.  Indeed,  w^e  were  assured  that 
it  was  quite  possible  to  carry  on  a  coffee  estate  with 
white  labor.  When,  heretofore,  a  negro  has  been 
brought  to  the  block  in  Havana,  or  any  other  Cu- 
ban city,  the  price  realized  for  him  has  always  been 
materially  affected  by  the  question  whether  he  had 
been  employed  on  a  sugar  estate  in  the  grinding 
season.  If  he  had  been  thus  employed  it  was  con- 
sidered that  his  life  has  been  unduly  shortened,  and 
he  sold  accordingly  at  a  lower  price.  At  the  present 
time  few  negroes  are  bought  or  sold,  as  their  market 
value  has  become  merely  nominaL  There  is  no  good 
reason  why  white  labor  is  not  suited  to .  the  coffee 
and  tobacco  estates.    When  the  field  labor  upon  the 


248 


DUE  SOUTH. 


sugar  estates  is  almost  wholly  performed  by  machin- 
ery, that  is,  the  cane  cut  by  a  reaper,  there  will  be  so 
much  less  exposure  to  the  sun  that  white  hands, 
under  proper  management,  can  perform  it. 

Tobacco,  indigenous  to  both  Cuba  and  the  United 
States,  is  a  great  source  of  revenue  upon  the  island. 
Its  cultivation  involves  considerable  labor  and  ex- 
pense, as  the  soil  must  be  carefully  chosen  and  pre- 
pared, and  the  crop  is  an  exhaustive  one  to  the  land  ; 
but  the  cultivation  does  not  require  machinery,  like 
sugar-cane,  nor  quite  so  much  care  as  does  the  grow- 
ing coffee.  It  is  valued  in  accordance  with  the  lo- 
cality from  which  it  comes,  some  sections  being 
especially  adapted  to  its  production.  That  of  the 
greatest  market  value,  and  used  in  the  manufacture 
of  the  highest-cost  cigars,  is  grown  in  the  most  west-  ./ 
erly  division  of  the  island,  known  as  the  Vuelta  de 
Abajo  (Lower  Valley).  The  whole  western  portion 
of  Cuba  is  not  by  any  means  suitable  to  the  pro- 
duction of  tobacco.  The  region  of  the  best  tobacco 
is  comprised  within  a  small  parallelogram  of  very 
limited  extent.  Beyond  this,  up  to  the  meridian  of 
Havana,  the  tobacco  is  of  fine  color,  but  of  inferior 
aroma.  From  Consolacion  to  San  Christoval  tlie 
tobacco  is  very  "hot," — to  use  a  local  phrase, — 
harsh,  and  strong,  and  from  San  Christoval  to  Gua- 
najny  the  quality  is  inferior  up  to  Holguin  y  Cuba, 
where  better  tobacco  is  produced.  The  fertile  valley 
of  Los  truines  produces  poor  smoking-tobacco,  but  an 
article  excellent  for  the  manufacture  of  snuff.  On 
the  banks  of  the  Rio  San  Sebastian,  are  also  some 
estates  which  produce  the  very  best  quality  of  tobacco. 
Thus  it  will  be  seen  that  certain  properties  of  soil 
operate  more  directly  in  producing  a  fine  grade  of 


AGRICULTURAL  POSSIBILITIES.  249 


tobacco  than  any  slight  variation  of  climate.  Pos- 
sibly a  chemical  analysis  of  the  soil  of  the  Vuelta  do 
Abajo  would  enable  the  intelligent  cultivator  to  sup- 
ply to  other  lands  the  ingredients  wanted  to  make 
them  produce  equally  good  tobacco.  A  fairly  mar- 
ketable article,  however,  is  grown  in  nearly  any  part 
of  the  island.  Its  cultivation  is  thought  to  produce 
a  full  ten  per  cent,  upon  the  capital  invested,  the 
annual  crop  of  Cuba  being  estimated  in  value  at 
about  twenty-three  million  dollars.  The  number  of 
tobacco  planters  is  said  to  be  about  fifteen  thousand, 
large  and  small.  On  many  tobacco  farms  the  labor 
is  nearly  all  performed  by  white  hands.  Some 
coolies  and  some  negroes  are  also  employed  even  on 
small  estates. 

When  it  is  remembered  that  so  small  a  portion  of 
the  land  is  under  cultivation,  and  yet  that  Cuba  ex- 
ports annually  a  hundred  million  dollars  worth  of 
sugar  and  molasses,  besides  coffee,  tobacco,  fruits, 
and  precious  woods,  it  will  be  realized  what  might  be 
accomplished,  under  a  liberal  system  of  government, 
upon  this  gem  of  the  Caribbean  Sea.  Cacao,  rice, 
plantains,  indigo,  and  cotton,  besides  Indian  corn 
and  many  nutritious  vegetables,  might  be  profitably 
cultivated  to  a  much  larger  degree  than  is  now  done. 
It  is  a  curious  and  remarkable  fact,  suggesting  a 
striking  moral,  that  with  the  inexhaustible  fertility 
of  the  soil,  with  an  endless  summer  that  gives  the 
laborer  two  and  even  three  crops  a  year,  agriculture 
generally  yields  in  Cuba  a  lower  percentage  of  profit 
than  in  our  stern  Northern  latitudes,  where  the  farmer 
has  to  wrench,  as  it  were,  the  half-reluctant  crop 
from  the  ground.  It  must  be  remembered  that  in 
Cuba  there  are  numerous  fruits  and  vegetables  not 


250 


DUE  SOUTH. 


enumerated  in  these  pages,  which  do  not  enter  into 
commerce,  and  which  spring  spontaneously  from  the 
fertile  soil.  In  the  possession  of  a  thrifty  population 
the  island  would  be  made  to  blossom  like  a  rose,  but 
as  it  now  is,  it  forms  only  a  garden  growing  wild, 
cultivated  here  and  there  in  patches.  None  of  the 
fine  natural  fruits  have  ever  been  iuiproved  by  careful 
culture  and  the  intelligent  selection  of  kinds,  so  that 
in  many  respects  they  will  not  compare  in  perfection 
with  our  average  strawberries,  plums,  pears,  and 
peaches.  Their  unfulfilled  possibilities  remain  to  be 
developed  by  intelligent  treatment. 

The  plantain,  which  may  be  said  to  be  the  bread  of 
the  common  people,  requires  to  be  planted  but  once. 
The  stem  bears  freely,  like  the  banana  of  the  same 
family,  at  the  end  of  eight  months,  and  then  wither- 
ing to  the  ground  renews  itself  again  from  the  roots. 
Sweet  potatoes  once  planted  require  care  only  to  pre- 
vent their  too  great  luxuriance,  and  for  this  purpose 
a  plough  is  passed  through  them  before  the  wet  sea- 
son, and  as  many  of  the  vines  as  can  be  freely  plucked 
up  are  removed  from  the  field.  The  sugar-cane,  on 
virgin  soil,  will  last  and  prove  productive  for  twenty 
years.  The  coffee  shrub  or  tree  will  bear  luxuriantly 
for  forty^  or  fifty  years.  The  eocoanut  palm  is  pecul- 
iar to  all  tropical  climates,  and  in  Cuba,  as  in  the 
Malacca  Straits  and  India,  bears  an  important  share 
in  sustaining  the  life  of  the  people,  supplying  milk, 
shade,  and  material  for  a  hundred  domestic  uses.  It 
grows  in  luxuriant  thriftiness  all  over  the  island,  in 
high  and  low  land,  in  forests,  and  down  to  the  very 
shore  washed  by  the  Gulf  Stream.  It  is  always 
graceful  and  picturesque,  imparting  an  oriental  as- 
pect to  everything  which  surrounds  it.     It  is  esti. 


THE  CUBAN  FIREFLY. 


251 


mated  that  over  ten  million  acres  of  native  forests, 
covered  by  valuable  wood,  still  remain  untouched  by 
the  woodman's  axe,  especially  on  and  about  the  moun- 
tain range,  which  extends  nearly  the  entire  length  of 
the  island,  like  the  vertebra  of  an  immense  whale. 

About  the  coffee  phmtations,  and  indeed  through- 
out the  rural  portions  of  the  country,  there  is  a 
curious  little  insect  called  a  cocuyo,  answering  in  its 
general  characteristics  and  nature  to  our  firefly,  though 
it  is  quadruple  its  size,  and  far  the  most  brilliant 
insect  of  its  kind  known  to  naturalists.  They  float 
in  phosphorescent  clouds  over  the  vegetation,  emitting 
a  lurid  halo,  like  fairy  torch-bearers  to  elfin  crews. 
One  at  first  sight  is  apt  to  compare  them  to  a  shower 
of  stars.  They  come  in  multitudes  immediately  after 
the  wet  season  sets  in,  prevailing  more  or  less,  how- 
ever, all  the  year  round.  Their  advent  is  always 
hailed  with  delight  by  the  slave  children,  as  well  as 
by  children  of  a  larger  growth.  They  are  caught  by 
the  slaves  in  any  desired  numbers  and  confined  in 
tiny  cages  of  wicker,  giving  them  sufficient  light  in 
their  cabins  at  night  for  ordinary  purposes,  and  form- 
ing the  only  artificial  light  permitted  them.  We 
have  seen  a  string  of  the  little  cages  containing  the 
glittering  insects  hung  in  a  slave-cabin  in  festoons, 
like  colored  lamps  in  fancy-goods  stores  in  America. 
The  effect  of  the  evanescent  light  thus  produced  is 
very  peculiar,  but  the  number  of  insects  employed 
insures  a  sufficiently  steady  effect  for  ordinary  pur- 
poses. These  little  creatures  are  brought  into  Havana 
by  young  Creole  children  and  by  women,  for  sale  to 
the  ladies,  who  sometimes  in  the  evenings  wear  a 
small  cage  hung  to  the  wrist  containing  a  few  of  the 
cocuyos,  and  the  light  thus  produced  is  nearly  equal 


252 


DUE  SOUTH. 


to  a  small  candle.  Some  ladies  wear  a  belt  of  them 
at  niglit,  ingeniously  fastened  about  the  waist,  others 
a  necklace,  and  the  effect  is  highly  amusing.  In  the 
ballroom  they  are  worn  in  the  flounces  of  ladies' 
dresses,  v/here  they  glisten  yery  much  like  diamonds 
and  other  precious  stones.  Strange  to  say,  there  is 
a  natural  hook  near  the  head  of  tlie  firefly,  by  which 
it  can  be  attached  to  the  dress  without  apparent 
injury  to  it.  The  town  ladies  keep  little  cages  of 
these  insects  as  pets,  feeding  them  on  sugar,  of  which 
they  appear  to  be  immoderately  fond.  On  the  plan- 
tations, when  a  fresh  supply  is  desired,  one  has  only 
to  wait  until  evening,  w^hen  hundreds  can  be  secured 
with  a  thread  net  at  the  end  of  a  pole.  By  holding 
a  cocuyo  up  in  the  out-door  air  for  a  few  moments, 
large  numbers  are  at  once  attracted  to  the  spot.  In 
size  they  are  about  an  inch  long,  and  a  little  over  an 
eighth  of  an  inch  in  breadth. 

There  is  an  inddious  and  much,  dreaded  insect 
with  which  the  planters  have  to  contend  on  the 
sugar  and  coffee  plantations,  but  which  is  not  met 
with  in  the  cities ;  namely,  the  red  ant,  a  much  more 
formidable  foe  than  any  one  not  acquainted  with  its 
ravages  would  believe.  These  little  creatures  pos- 
sess a  power  altogether  out  of  proportion  to  their  in- 
si!2:nificant  size,  eatins;  into  the  heart  of  the  hardest 

O  'CD 

wood,  neither  cedar,  iron-wood,  nor  even  lignum-vitaG 
being  proof  against  them.  They  are  not  seen  at  the 
surface,  as  they  never  touch  the  outer  shell  of  the 
wood  whose  heart  they  are  consuming.  A  beam  or 
rafter  wdiich  has  been  attacked  by  them  looks  as 
good  as  when  new,  to  the  casual  observer,  until  it  is 
sounded  and  found  to  be  hollow,  a  mere  shell  in  fact. 
Even  in  passing  from  one  piece  of  timber  to  another, 


THE  CEIBA  TREE, 


253 


the  red  ant  does  so  by  covered  ways,  and  is  tlius  least 
seen  when  most  busy.  The  timbers  of  an  entire  roof 
have  been  found  hollowed  out  and  deprived  entirely 
of  their  supporting  strength  witliout  the  presence  of 
the  insect  enemy  being  even  suspected  until  chance 
betrayed  the  useless  character  of  the  supports.  For 
some  unknown  reason,  upright  timbers  are  rarely  at- 
tacked by  them,  but  those  in  a  reclining  or  horizontal 
position  are  their  choice.  These  destructive  red  ants 
are  nearly  always  to  be  found  in  tropical  countries,  as 
in  India,  Batavia,  and  Sumatra,  where  they  build 
mounds  in  the  jungle  half  the  size  of  the  natives' 
cabins.  They  may  be  seen  marching  like  an  invad- 
ing army  in  columns  containing  myriads  across  the 
fields  of  southern  India. 

The  interior  landscape,  more  particularly  of  the 
middle  district  of  the  island,  is  here  and  there  orna- 
mented by  fine  specimens  of  the  ceiba,  or  silk- cotton 
tree,  which  is  often  seen  a  hundred  feet  in  height, 
witli  stout  and  widespread  branches,  giving  the  idea 
of  great  firmness  and  stability.  It  sends  up  a  mas- 
sive sinewy  trunk  for  some  fifty  feet,  when  it  divides 
into  branches  covered  with  a  dense  canopy  of  leaves, 
expanded  like  an  umbrella,  and  forming  a  perfect 
shade  against  the  power  of  the  torrid  sun.  The 
ceiba  is  slow  of  growth,  but  attains  to  great  age,  spe- 
cimens thriving  when  Columbus  first  landed  here 
being,  as  we  were  assured,  still  extant.  Next  to  the 
r.oyal  palm,  it  is  the  most  remarkable  of  all  the  trees 
which  loom  up  beneath  the  brilliant  purple  skies  of 
Cuba.  The  negroes  have  a  superstition  that  the  ceiba 
is  a  magic  tree  haunted  by  spirits,  a  singular  notion 
also  shared  by  the  colored  people  of  Nassau,  though 
these  two  islands  are  so  many  hundreds  of  miles  apart 


254 


DUE  SOUTH. 


and  have  never  liacl  any  natural  connection.  There 
is  certainly  something  weird  in  the  loneliness  and 
solitary  grandeur  of  the  tree.  Next  to  the  palm  and 
ceiba  in  beauty  and  picturesqueness  of  effect  is  the 
tamarind  tree,  with  its  deep  green  and  delicate  foli- 
age, presenting  a  singular  and  curious  aspect  when 
thickly  looped  on  every  branch  with  hanging  choco- 
late-colored pods. 

Under  the  noonday  sun,  sitting  in  the  deep  shade 
of  some  lofty  ceiba,  one  may  watch  with  curious  eyes 
the  myriads  of  many-hued,  broad-winged  butterflies, 
mingling  orange,  crimson,  and  steel-blue  in  dazzling 
combinations,  as  they  flit  through  the  ambient  atmo- 
sphere with  a  background  of  shining,  evergreen  foli- 
age, the  hum  of  insects  and  the  carol  of  birds  form 
ing  a  soft  lullaby  inviting  sleep.  Naturalists  tell  us 
that  no  less  than  three  hundred  distinct  species  of 
butterflies  are  found  in  Cuba,  ranging  in  size  from  a 
common  house-fly  to  a  humming-bird.  The  day  dies 
with  a  suddenness  almost  startling,  so  that  one  passes 
from  sunshine  to  starlight  as  if  by  magic.  Then  tlie 
cocuyo  takes  up  the  activity  of  insect  life,  flashing  its 
miniature  torches  over  the  plantations,  and  peeping 
out  from  among  the  dense  foliage,  while  the  stars 
sing  their  evening  hymn  of  silent  praise. 

The  Cubans  have  a  peculiar  mode  of  harnessing 
their  oxen,  similar  to  that  seen  in  tlie  far  East  and 
also  in  some  parts  of  Europe,  as  at  San  Sebastian,  on 
the  Bay  of  Biscay.  A  stout  wooden  bar  is  placed  at 
the  root  of  the  horns,  and  so  securely  bound  to  them 
with  thongs  that  the  animal  draws,  or  rather  pushes, 
by  the  head  and  frontlet,  without  chafing.  The 
Cuban  oxen  have  a  hole  pierced  in  their  nostrils, 
through  which  a  metallic  ring  is  secured,  and  to  this 


ABOUT  OXEN  AND  HORSES, 


255 


a  rope  is  attached,  serving  as  reins  with  which  to 
guide  the  aniiiiah  This  mode  of  harnessing  certainly 
seems  to  enable  the  oxen  to  bring  more  strength  to 
bear  upon  the  purpose  for  whicli  they  are  employed 
than  when  the  yoke  is  placed,  as  is  the  case  with  us, 
about  the  throat  and  shoulders.  The  greatest  power 
of  horned  animals  undoubtedly  lies  in  the  head  and 
neck,  and  the  question  arises  whether  in  placing  the 
yoke  on  the  neck  and  breast  we  do  not  get  it  out  of 
reach  of  the  exercise  of  that  strength,  and  cause  the 
animal  to  draw  the  load  behind  him  by  the  mere 
force  of  his  bodily  weight  and  impetus.  The  West 
Indian  animal  is  small,  and  often  of  the  cream-col- 
ored breed,  mild-eyed  and  docile,  of  which  one  sees 
such  choice  specimens  in  Italy  and  especially  on  the 
plains  of  Lombardy. 

Not  quite  satisfied  with  the  conclusion  first  arrived 
at,  we  gave  this  subject  of  the  harnessing  of  oxen  a 
second  consideration,  and  in  carefully  watching  the 
operation  of  the  frontlet-bar  we  detected  at  least  one 
very  cruel  and  objectionable  feature  in  this  mode  of 
harnessing.  The  animals  are  necessarily  so  bound  to 
the  bar  that  to  move  their  heads  one  way  or  the 
other  is  a  simple  impossibility,  while  our  mode  of 
yoking  oxen  leaves  them  very  much  at  liberty  in  tlie 
use  of  their  heads,  thus  enabling  them  to  shake  off 
flies  and  other  biting  insects  which  may  tease  them, 
whereas  the  eyes  of  a  Cuban  ox  are  often  seen  in- 
fested with  flies  which  he  cannot  get  rid  of  while  in 
harness,  however  he  may  be  beset  by  them.  This 
alone,  in  a  climate  where  biting  insects  swarm  all  the 
year  round,  is  a  most  serious  objection  to  the  frontlet- 
bar  as  compared  Avith  the  yoke. 

The  Cuban  horse  deserves  more  than  a  mere  men- 


25G 


DUE  SOUTH. 


tion  in  this  connection.  He  is  a  remarkably  yaluable 
animal,  especially  adapted  to  the  climate  and  to  the 
service  required  of  him.  Though  small  and  delicate 
of  limb  he  can  carry  a  great  weight,  and  his  gait  is 
not  unlike  that  of  our  pacing  horses,  though  with 
much  less  lateral  motion,  and  is  remarkably  easy  for 
the  rider,  certainly  forming  the  easiest  gait  combined 
with  rapidity  of  motion  possessed  by  any  breed. 
He  has  great  power  of  endurance,  is  a  small  eater, 
requiring  no  grain  as  a  general  thing,  but  is  satisfied 
with  the  green  leaves  and  stalks  ot"  the  corn,  upon 
which  he  keeps  in  good  condition  and  flesh.  He  is  a 
docile  little  creature,  easily  taught  and  easily  taken 
care  of.  The  Cuban  horse  knows  no  shelter  except 
the  heavens  above  him,  for  there  are  no  barns  in 
Cuba  ;  but  he  will  no  more  wander  away  from  bis 
master's  door,  where  he  stands  at  nearly  all  hours  of 
the  day  with  the  saddle  on  his  back,  than  would  a 
favorite  dog.  The  Montero  inlierits  all  the  love  of 
his  Moorish  ancestors  for  the  horse,  and  never  stirs 
abroad  except  upon  his  back.  He  considers  himself 
established  for  life  when  he  possesses  a  good  horse,  a 
sharp  Toledo  blade,  and  a  pair  of  silver  spurs.  Being 
from  childhood  accustomed  to  the  saddle,  it  is  natural 
for  him  to  be  a  good  rider,  and  there  are  none  better 
even  in  Arabia.  He  is  apt  to  tell  big  stories  about 
his  little  horse,  intimating  its  descent  direct  from  the 
Kochlani,  or  King  Solomon's  breed,  and  to  endow  it 
with  marvelous  qualities  of  speed  and  endurance. 
The  Montero  is  never  heard  to  boast  of  his  wife,  his 
children,  or  any  other  possession,  but  he  does  "  blow  " 
for  his  horse. 

One  of  this  class  stood  beside  his  pony  one  warm 
afternoon  opposite  the  Hotel  Telegrafo,  where  a  few 


COLOSSAL  DECORATION. 


257 


of  the  guests  were  seated  under  the  broad  yeranda. 
The  sleek,  well-formed  animal  elicited  some  compli- 
mentary remarks,  which  gratified  the  owner,  who 
spoke  English  after  the  style  of  his  people.  He  in- 
dulged in  praises  of  the  horse,  especially  as  to  the 
ease  and  steadiness  of  his  gait,  and  offered  a  bet  that 
he  could  ride  round  the  outside  of  the  Campo  de 
Marte  on  him  and  return  to  the  spot  where  he  stood, 
at  ordinary  speed,  carrying  a  full  glass  of  water  with- 
out spilling  a  tablespoonful  of  the  liquid  ;  such  is 
the  ease  of  motion  of  these  animals  trained  to  what  is 
called  the  paso  gualtrapeo.  Four  corners  were  to  be 
turned  by  the  Cuban,  as  well  as  lialf  a  mile  of  dis- 
tance accomplished.  The  small  bet  suggested  was 
readily  taken,  and  the  full  tumbler  of  water  brought 
out  of  the  house.  The  Cuban  mounted  his  pouy  aud 
rode  round  the  park  with  the  speed  of  a  bird,  easily 
winning  his  bet. 

The  visitor,  as  he  proceeds  inland,  will  frequently 
observe  on  the  fronts  of  the  dwellings  attempts  at  rep- 
resentations in  colors  of  birds  and  various  animals, 
resembling  anything  rather  than  what  they  are  ap- 
parently designed  to  depict.  The  most  striking  char- 
acteristics are  the  gaudy  coloring  and  the  remark- 
able size.  Pigeons  present  the  colossal  appearance  of 
ostriches,  and  dogs  are  exceedingly  elephantine  in 
their  proportions.  Space  would  not  be  adequate  to 
picture  horses  and  cattle.  Especially  in  the  suburbs 
of  the  cities  this  fancy  may  be  observed,  where  at- 
tempts at  portraying  domestic  scenes  present  some 
original  ideas  as  to  grouping.  If  such  ludicrous  ob- 
jects were  to  be  met  with  anywhere  else  but  in  Cuba 
they  would  be  called  caricatures.  Here  they  are  re- 
garded with  the  utmost  complacency,  and  innocently 

17 


268 


DUE  SOUTH. 


considered  to  be  artistic  and  ornamental.  Noticing 
sometiiing  of  the  same  sort  in  Vevay,  Switzerland, 
not  long  since,  the  author  found  on  inquiry  that  it 
was  the  incipient  art  effort  of  a  Spanish  Creole,  who 
had  wandered  thither  from  the  island. 

The  policy  of  the  home  government  has  been  to 
suppress,  so  far  as  possible,  all  knowledge  of  matters 
in  general  relating  to  Cuba;  especially  to  prevent  the 
making  public  of  any  statistical  information  regard- 
ing the  internal  resources,  all  accounts  o£  its  current 
growth,  prosperity,  or  otherwise.  Rigidly-enforced 
rules  accomplished  this  seclusiveness  for  many  years, 
until  commercial  relations  with  the  "outside  barba- 
rians "  rendered  this  no  longer  possible.  No  official 
chart  of  Havana,  its  harbor,  or  that  of  any  other 
Cuban  city  has  ever  been  made  public.  Spain  has 
seemed  to  desire  to  draw  a  curtain  before  this  tropical 
jewel,  lest  its  dazzling  brightness  should  tempt  the 
cupidity  of  some  other  nation.  Notwithstanding  this, 
our  war  department  at  Washington  contains  complete 
drawings  of  every  important  fortification,  and  charts 
of  every  important  harbor  in  Cuba.  Since  1867  wo 
have  been  connected  with  Cuba  by  submarine  cable, 
and  through  her  with  Jamaica  since  1870.  The  lo- 
cal government  exercises,  however,  strict  surveillance 
over  telegraphic  communications. 

The  politictil  condition  of  Cuba  is  what  might  be 
expected  of  a  Castilian  colony,  ruled  and  governed  by 
such  a  policy  as  prevails  here.  Like  the  home  gov- 
ernment, she  presents  a  remarkable  instance  of  the 
standstill  policy,  and  from  one  of  the  most  powerful 
and  wealthy  kingdoms  of  Europe,  Spain  has  sunk  to 
the  position  of  the  humblest  and  poorest.  Other  na- 
tions have  labored  and  succeeded  in  the  race  of  prog- 


TEE  HIDALGO  SPIRIT, 


259 


ress,  while  her  adherence  to  ancient  institutions  and 
her  dignified  contempt  for  ''modern  innovations" 
have  become  a  species  of  retrogression,  which  has 
placed  her  far  below  all  her  sister  governments.  The 
true  Hidalgo  spirit,  which  wraps  itself  up  in  an  an- 
tique garb  and  shrugs  its  shoulders  at  the  advance  of 
other  nations,  still  rules  over  the  realm  of  Ferdinand 
and  Isabella,  while  its  high-roads  swarm  with  gypsies 
and  banditti,  as  tokens  of  decaying  power. 


CHAPTER  XIII. 


Consumption  of  Tobacco.  —  The  Delicious  Fruits  of  the  Tropics.-^ 
Individual  Characteristics  of  Cuban  Pruits. — The  Royal  Palm. 

—  The  Mulberry  Tree.  — Silk  Culture.  —  The  Island  once  cov- 
ered by  Eorests.  —  No  Poisonous  llcptiles.  —  The  Cuban  Blood- 
hound. —  Hotbed  of  African  Slavery.  —Spain's  Disregard  of  Sol- 
emn Treaties.  —  The  Coolie  System  of  Slavery.  —  Ah-Lee  draws  a 
Prize.  —  Native  African  Races.  —  Negroes  buying  their  Freedom. 

—  Laws  favoring  the  Slaves.  —  Example  of  St.  Domingo.  —  Gen- 
eral Emancipation. 

The  consumption  of  tobacco  in  the  form  of  cigars 
is  almost  incredibly  large  in  Cuba,  and  for  the  city  of 
Havana  alone  it  has  been  estimated  to  amount  to  an 
aggregate  cost  of  five  million  dollars  per  annum. 
Every  man,  woman,  and  child  appears  to  be  addicted 
to  the  habit.  It  strikes  a  Northerner  as  rather  odd 
for  a  lady  to  sit  smoking  her  cigarette  in  her  par- 
lor, but  this  is  not  at  all  rare.  The  men  of  all  de- 
grees smoke  everywhere,  in  the  dwelling-house,  in  the 
street,  in  the  theatre,  in  the  cafes,  and  in  the  counting- 
room  ;  eating,  drinking,  nnd  truly  it  would  also  seem, 
sleeping,  they  smoke,  smoke,  smoke.  At  the  tables 
d'hSte  of  the  hotels  it  is  not  unusual  to  see  a  Cuban 
take  a  few  whiffs  of  a  cigarette  between  the  several 
courses,  and  lights  are  burning  close  at  hand  to  enable 
him  to  do  so.  If  a  party  of  gentlemen  are  invited  to 
dine  together,  the  host  so  orders  that  a  packet  of  the 
finest  cigarettes  is  frequently  passed  to  his  guests, 
with  a  lighted  taper,  in  the  course  of  the  meal,  and  at 
its  close  some  favorite  brand  of  the  more  substantial 


CONSUMPTION  OF  TOBACCO.  261 


cigar  is  furnished  to  all.  Thus,  tobacco  is  consumed 
on  every  occasion,  in  the  council-chamber,  the  court, 
at  funerals,  in  the  domestic  circles,  at  feasts,  and  on 
the  out-door  drive.  The  slave  and  his  master,  the 
maid  and  her  mistress,  boy  and  man,  all,  all  smoke. 
It  seems  odd  that  one  does  not  scent  Havana  far  out 
at  sea  before  the  land  is  sighted. 

We  vi^ere  told  that  gentlemen  who  have  the  means 
to  procure  them  smoke  on  an  average  what  is  equiva- 
lent to  a  dozen  cigars  per  day,  and  those  of  the  other 
sex  addicted  to  the  habit  consume  half  that  quantity. 
Of  late  the  larger  proportion,  however,  takes  the  form 
of  cigarettes,  which  are  far  more  subtle  in  effect  when 
used  to  excess.  The  consequence  of  this  large  home 
consumption,  in  addition  to  the  export  of  the  article, 
is  that  a  very  numerous  class  of  the  population  is 
engaged  in  the  manufacture,  and  little  stores  devoted 
solely  to  this  business  are  plentifully  sprinkled  all 
about  the  metropolis.  The  imperial  factory  of  La 
Honradez,  already  described,  occupies  a  whole  city 
square,  and  is  one  of  its  curiosities,  producing  from 
three  to  four  million  cigarettes  per  diem.  This 
house  enjoys  special  governmental  protection,  and 
makes  its  annual  contribution  to  the  royal  liouse- 
hold  of  Madrid  of  the  best  of  its  manufactured  goods. 
A  snutf-taker  is  rarely  to  be  met  with,  and  few,  if 
any,  chew  the  weed,  if  we  except  the  stevedores  and 
foreign  sailors  to  be  seen  about  the  shore  and  shipping. 
Havana  has  no  wharves,  properly  speaking  ;  vessels 
are  loaded  and  discharged  by  means  of  lighters  or 
scows.  The  negroes  become  past:ionately  fond  of  the 
pipe,  inhaling  into  their  lungs  the  rich,  powerful  nar- 
cotic and  driving  it  out  again  at  their  nostrils  in  slow, 
heavy  clouds,  half  dozing  over  the  dreamy  effect. 


262 


DUE  SOUTH, 


The  postilion  who  waits  for  a  fare  upon  the  street 
passes  half  his  time  in  this  way,  dreaming  over  his 
pipe  of  pure  Havana,  or  renewing  constantly  his  cig- 
arette. The  price  of  manufactured  tobacco  in  Cuba 
is  about  one  half  that  which  we  pay  for  the  same  arti- 
cle in  America,  either  at  wholesale  or  retail,  as  ship- 
ping expenses,  export  duty,  and  import  duty  must  be 
added  to  the  price  charged  to  the  consumer. 

In  discussing  this  habit  one  naturally  looks  back 
about  four  hundred  years,  recalling  the  amazement  of 
the  Spanish  discoverers,  when  they  first  landed  here, 
at  seeinof  the  Indians  smoking^  a  native  weed  which 
was  called  tobacco.  The  practice  was,  at  that  time, 
entirely  unknown  in  Europe,  though  now  indulged  in 
as  a  luxury  by  nearly  half  the  population  of  the  globe. 

We  have  only  a  partial  idea  at  the  North  of  the 
true  character  of  tropical  fruits,  since  only  a  small 
portion  of  them  are  of  such  a  nature  as  to  admit  of 
exportation,  and  such  as  are  forwarded  to  us  must  be 
gathered  in  an  unripe  condition  in  order  to  survive 
a  short  sea-voyage.  The  orange  which  we  eat  in 
Boston  or  New  York,  therefore,  is  a  very  different- 
flavored  fruit  from  the  same  when  partaken  of  in 
Havana  or  Florida.  The  former  has  been  picked 
green  and  ripened  on  shipboard,  as  a  general  thing; 
the  latter  was  perhaps  on  the  tree  an  hour  before 
you  ate  it,  ripened  under  its  native  skies  and  upon 
its  parent  stem.  So  of  the  banana,  one  of  the  most 
delightful  and  nutritious  of  all  West  Indian  fruits, 
which  grows  everywhere  in  Cuba  with  prodigal  pro- 
f useness,  —  though  we  are  told  that  as  regards  this 
fruit  it  is  claimed  that,  like  some  varieties  of  our 
pear,  it  ripens  as  well  off  the  tree  iis  on  it ;  and  the 
same  is  the  case  with  some  other  fleshy  fruits.  After 


THE  BANANA, 


263 


the  banana  has  attained  its  fall  growth,  the  final  pro- 
cess of  ripening  commences,  as  it  were,  within  itself; 
that  is  to  say,  the  fruit  ceases  to  depend  upon  the 
tree  for  sustenance  or  farther  development.  The  pulp 
becomes  gradually  sweetened  and  softened,  chiefly  by 
the  change  of  the  starch  into  more  or  less  of  soluble 
sugar.  When  the  bananas  are  shipped  to  our  North- 
ern markets  they  are  as  green  as  the  leaves  of  the 
trees  on  which  they  grew.  Most  of  us  have  seen 
cartloads  of  them  in  this  condition  landing  at  our 
city  wharves.  Placed  in  an  even  temperature  and  in 
darkness  they  wiU  lipen  and  become  as  yellow  as 
gold  in  a  very  few  days. 

The  banana  and  plantain  differ  from  each  other 
much  as  an  apple  and  a  potato  differ  ;  the  latter  should 
always  be  cooked  before  eating,  but  the  former  may 
be  either  eaten  raw  or  cooked,  according  to  the  taste. 
The  bannna  is  gathered  at  three  different  stages  of 
its  growth.  At  a  quarter  of  its  maturity  it  is  rather 
milky,  and  contains  much  starch.  Roasted  in  ashes, 
or  boiled  in  water,  it  forms  a  very  nourishing  food, 
and  is  a  good  substitute  for  bread!  If  eaten  at  three 
fourths  of  its  growth  it  is  less  nourishing,  but  contains 
more  sugar.  Lastly,  when  perfectly  ripe,  it  develops 
an  acrid  principle,  both  wholesome  and  palatable. 
The  fig  banana  is  a  favorite  species,  and  forms  a  uni- 
versal dessert  in  the  ripe  state  with  the  Creoles.  A 
frequent  reference  is  made  to  it  in  these  notes  because 
of  its  importance.  The  enormous  productiveness  of 
the  plant  and  its  nutritious  character  assure  to  the 
humble  classes  an  abundant  subsistence.  People  may 
go  freely  into  the  wild  lands  and  find  edible  bananas 
at  any  time,  without  money  and  without  price.  In 
the  cities  the  charge  for  them  is  so  moderate  that  a 


264 


DUE  SOUTH. 


person  must  be  poor  indeed  who  cannot  afford  a  lib- 
eral quantity  of  them  daily. 

Some  of  the  other  fruits  are  the  mango,  pomegran- 
ate, pineapple,  zapota,  tamarind,  citron,  fig,  cocoa, 
lemon,  rose-apple,  and  breadfruit.  Japan,  India,  and 
Ceylon  afford  nothing  more  fascinating  or  strange 
in  their  vegetable  kingdoms  than  this  favored  isle. 
The  fruits  are  simply  wonderful  in  variety  and  per- 
fection. One  eats  eggs,  custard,  and  butter  off  the 
trees.  Though  all  these  fruits  are  universally  eaten, 
the  orange  seems  to  be  the  Creole's  favorite,  and  if 
he  be  a  person  of  even  ordinary  means,  he  seldom 
rises  in  the  morning  until  he  has  drunk  his  cup  of 
coffee  and  eaten  a  couple  of  oranges,  brought  fresh 
and  prepared  for  him  by  a  servant.  The  practice  is 
one  into  which  the  visitor  falls  very  pleasantly',  and 
finds  it  no  less  refreshing  than  agreeable.  It  seems 
to  rain  oranges  in  Havana.  They  are  scarcely  less 
cheap  than  the  luscious  banana. 

The  rose-apple  grows  on  one  of  the  most  symmet- 
rical trees  in  Cuba,  with  strong,  oval,  glossy  leaves. 
The  blossoms  are  large,  white,  and  of  pleasant  odor, 
followed  by  a  round  fruit  about  as  large  as  a  well- 
developed  California  peach,  with  a  smooth  skin, 
cream-colored  within  and  without.  The  pulp  is  as 
firm  as  a  ripe  seckel  pear,  and  the  taste  is  so  strong 
of  otto-of-rose  that  more  than  one  at  a  time  palls 
upon  the  palate.  It  is  much  used  among  the  Cubans 
as  an  agreeable  flavoring  for  soups  and  puddings.  Of 
the  fruit  trees  the  lemon  is  perhaps  the  most  attrac- 
tive to  the  eye  ;  for  though  small  and  dwarfish,  yet 
it  presents  the  flowers,  small  given  lemons,  and  the 
ripe  yellow  fruit  all  together,  reminding  one  of  the 
Eastern  alma.  The  green  leaves  when  young  are 
nearly  as  fragrant  as  the  lemon  verbena. 


FRUIT  TREES. 


265 


The  mammee  is  a  curious  fruit  growing  on  lofty, 
umbrageous  trees,  appearing  as  musk-melons  would 
look  if  seen  hanging  in  elm-trees.  Large  and  high- 
flavored,  the  fruit  is  solid  in  texture  like  the  Ameri- 
can quince.  The  flavor  of  the  mammee  resembles 
our  peach,  though  not  quite  so  delicate.  Its  color 
when  ripe  is  a  light  yellow. 

The  mango  is  nearly  as  abundant  and  prolific  as 
the  banana,  and  yet  it  came  originally  from  the  far 
East.  It  grows  upon  a  very  handsome  tree,  the 
leaves  being  long,  lanceolate,  polished,  and  hanging 
in  dense  masses  of  dark-green  foliage.  In  size  it  is 
like  a  full-grown  New  England  apple  tree.  The 
mango  is  about  thrice  the  size  of  an  egg  plum,  and 
when  ripe  is  yellow  in  color,  and  grows  in  long  pen- 
dant bunches.  When  this  fruit  is  at  its  best  it  is 
very  juicy,  and  may  be  sucked  away  like  a  grape. 
The  negroes  are  immoderatel}^  fond  of  it,  and  when 
permitted  to  do  so  are  apt  to  make  themselves  ill  by 
their  greediness. 

The  cocoa-nut  tree  grows  to  the  height  of  fifty 
feet  and  more,  differing  from  the  royal  palm  by  its 
drooping  nature.  At  its  summit  is  a  waving  tuft  of 
dark  green,  glossy,  pinnate  leaves,  from  ten  to  fifteen 
feet  in  length,  like  mammoth  plumes,  immediately  un- 
der which  are  suspended  the  nuts  in  heavy  bunches, 
often  weighing  three  hundred  pounds.  When  the 
nut  has  attained  nearly  its  full  size,  it  is  said  to  be  in 
the  milk,  and  it  then  furnishes  a  delightful,  cooling, 
and  healthful  beverage.  In  taste  it  is  sweetish,  and 
its  effect  is  that  of  a  slight  diuretic. 

The  sapotilla  is  a  noble  fruit  tree,  with  feathery, 
glossy  leaves.  The  blossoms  are  white  and  bell- 
shaped,  with  an  agreeable  perfume  like  an  apple- 


266 


DUE  SOUTH. 


blossom.  The  fruit  is  round,  about  the  size  of  a 
peach,  the  skin  being  rough  and  dark  like  a  russet 
apple  or  a  potato,  but  when  fully  ripe  it  is  delicious, 
and  melts  away  in  the  mouth  like  a  custard. 

The  pineapple,  that  king  of  fruits,  though  in  itself 
presenting  such  a  fine  appearance,  is  the  plainest  of 
all  in  its  humble  manner  of  growtli.  It  is  found  wild 
in  Cuba,  and  there  are  several  varieties  cultivated, 
none  quite  equal,  it  seemed  to  us,  to  those  found  in 
Singapore  and  other  equatorial  islands.  Its  style  of 
growth  is  the  same  in  either  hemisphere.  It  grows 
singly  upon  its  low  stem,  reaching  to  a  height  of 
eighteen  or  twenty  inches  above  the  ground.  A 
single  fruit-stem  pushes  up  from  the  earth,  blossoms, 
and  in  about  eighteen  months  from  the  planting  it 
matures  a  single  apple,  weighing  three  or  four  pounds 
and  upwards  ;  and  what  a  royal  fruit  it  is  !  A  field 
well  covered  with  the  yellow,  ripening  apples  is  a 
very  beautiful  sight.  Though  the  plant  produces  but 
one  apple. at  a  time,  it  will  continue  to  yield  an  an- 
nual crop  for  three  or  four  years,  if  cultivated.  It  is 
raised  from  slips,  planted  much  as  our  farmers  set 
out  young  cabbages  or  lettuce. 

The  custard-apple  grows  wild,  but  is  also  culti- 
vated and  thereby  much  improved.  Its  color  exter- 
nally is  green,  and  it  has  a  tough  skin,  is  of  a  subacid 
flavor,  and  as  full  of  little  flat  black  seeds  as  a  shad  is 
of  bones.  It  is  much  used  in  Cuba  for  flavoring 
purposes,  and  is  soft  and  juic}%  each  specimen  weigh- 
ing from  a  pound  to  a  pound  and  a  half.  The  st:ir- 
apple  is  so  called  because  when  cut  through  trans- 
versely its  centre  presents  the  figure  of  a  star.  Even 
when  quite  ripe  the  interior  is  green  in  color.  Its 
flavor  is  exquisite,  like  strawberries  and  cream,  and 


FRUIT  TREES. 


267 


it  is  eaten  with  a  spoon,  the  outside  skin  forming  as 
it  were  a  shell  or  cup. 

The  guava  tree  is  small  and  resembles  our  young 
cherry  trees.  The  fruit  is  about  the  size  of  the  lime, 
which  it  much  resembles.  It  is  made  little  use  of  in 
its  natural  condition,  but  is  in  universal  demand  as 
a  preserve  ;  the  jelly  made  from  it  is  famous  all  over 
the  world.  When  it  is  freshly  cut,  one  will  scent  a 
whole  room  for  hours  with  its  distinctive  flavor. 

The  pomegranate,  a  general  favorite  in  the  torrid 
zone,  flourishes  in  Cuba,  but  is  seen  in  much  greater 
perfection  in  Africa.  It  is  doubtful  if  it  is  indigenous 
here,  though  it  is  now  found  in  such  abundance,  and 
as  much  depended  upon  for  a  food  supply  as  apples 
are  with  us.  Doubtless  the  reader  has  seen  the  busli 
in  bearing  in  our  hothouses,  the  fruit  when  cut  being 
full  of  red  seeds  glistening  like  rubies. 

The  tamarind  is  a  universal  and  thrifty  tree  in  the 
island,  lofty  and  umbrageous,  a  quick  grower  and  yet 
long-lived.  The  fruit  is  contained  in  a  pod,  —  like  a 
full,  ripe  pea-pod,  —  covering  mahogany-colored  seeds. 
The  palp  when  ripe  and  fresh  is  as  soft  as  marma- 
lade, and  quite  palatable  ;  its  flavor  is  sugared  acid. 
Steeped  in  water  it  forms  a  delightful  and  cooling 
beverage,  much  used  as  a  drink  in  the  tropics. 

The  orange,  lime,  lemon,  and  citroi)  are  too  well 
known  to  require  detailed  description.  The  wild  or 
bitter  orange  is  much  used  for  hedges :  its  deep  green 
glossy  foliage  and  its  fragrant  blossoms  and  its  gold- 
en fruit  make  such  hedges  strikingly  effective.  The 
rind  of  the  bitter  orange  is  used  to  make  a  sweet- 
meat with  which  we  are  a,ll  familiar. 

More  than  once  the  Moorish  garden  of  the  Alcazar, 
at  Seville,  and  the  garden  of  Hesperides,  at  Cannes, 


268 


DUE  SOUTH, 


were  recalled  in  hours  of  delightful  wanderings  among 
the  orange  groves  of  Cuba.  Yet  these  latter  are  neg- 
lected, or  at  least  not  generously  cultivated,  no  such 
care  being  given  to  them  as  is  bestowed  upon  the  or- 
ange orchards  of  Florida;  but  the  glowing  sun  and  ar- 
dent breath  of  the  tropics  ask  little  aid  from  the  hand 
of  man  in  perfecting  their  products.  The  fruits  and 
flowers  of  the  American  Archipehigo  —  ''air-woven 
children  of  light" — are  not  only  lavishly  prolific, 
but  perfect  of  their  kind.  No  wonder  that  scientists 
and  botanists  become  poetical  in  their  descriptions  of 
these  regions. 

The  royal  palm,  so  often  alluded  to,  grows  to  the 
height  of  seventy  feet,  more  or  less.  It  is  singular 
that  it  should  have  no  substance  in  the  interior  of  its 
trunk,  though  the  outside  to  the  thickness  of  a  couple 
of  inches  makes  the  finest  of  boards,  and  when  sea- 
soned is  so  hard  as  to  turn  a  board-nail  at  a  single 
stroke  of  the  hammer.  It  is  remarkable  also  that  a 
palm  tree  which  grows  so  high  has  such  tiny,  thread- 
like roots,  which,  however,  are  innumerable.  The  top 
of  the  palm  yields  a  vegetable  which  is  used  as  food 
and  when  boiled  is  nutritious  and  palatable,  resem- 
bling our  cauliflower.  Though  there  are  many  species 
of  palm  in  Cuba,  one  seldom  sees  the  fan-palm,  which 
forms  such  a  distinctive  feature  in  equatorial  regions 
as  at  Penang  and  Singapore. 

Humboldt  thought  that  the  entire  island  was  once 
a  forest  of  palms,  mingled  with  lime  and  orange  trees. 
The  mulberry  tree,  if  not  indigenous,  was  found  here 
at  so  early  a  period  that  it  is  a  matter  of  doubt  as  to 
its  having  been  imported  from  other  lands.  It  grows 
to  great  perfection,  and  has  led  to  several  attempts  in 
the  direction  of  silk-raising,  the  silkworm  also  prov- 


ABSENCE  OF  POISONOUS  REPTILES.  269 


ing  more  prolific  even  than  in  Japan.  Some  of  the 
fine,  hard  fancy  woods  of  Cuba  weie  employed  in  the 
finish  of  apartments  in  the  Escurial  palace  near  Ma- 
drid. Ebony,  rosewood,  fustic,  hincewood,  mahogany, 
and  other  choice  woods  are  very  abundant,  especially 
the  mahogany,  which  grows  to  enormous  size.  The 
exportation  of  them  has  only  taken  place  where  these 
woods  were  best  located  for  river  transportation  to 
harbors  on  the  coast.  The  interior  of  the  island  is 
so  inaccessible  that  it  has  hardly  been  explored. 
There  are  fertile  valleys  there  of  two  hundred  miles 
in  length  and  thirty  in  width,  with  an  avernge  temper- 
ature of  75°,  a  maximum  of  88"^,  and  a  minimum  of 
52°,  thus  affording  a  most  perfect  and  healthful  cli- 
mate, favorable  to  human  and  to  vegetable  life,  and  it 
should  be  remembered  that  malarial  diseases  or  yel- 
low fever  are  unknown  in  the  districts  removed  from 
the  coast,  and  no  one  ever  heard  of  sunstroke  in 
Cuba. 

It  is  somewhat  remarkable  that  there  sliould  be  no 
poisonous  animals  or  reptiles  in  the  island,  but  so  w^e 
were  creditably  informed.  Snakes  of  various  species 
abound,  but  are  considered  entirely  harmless,  though 
they  are  sometimes  destructive  to  domestic  fowls. 
During  a  pleasant  trip  between  San  Antonio  and  Al- 
quizar  in  a  volante  with  a  hospitable  planter  of  that 
region,  this  subject  happened  to  be  under  discussion, 
when  we  saw  in  the  roadway  a  snake  six  or  eight  feet 
long,  and  as  large  round  as  the  middle  of  one's  arm. 
On  pointing  it  out  to  our  friend,  he  merely  told  us 
its  species,  and  declared  that  a  child  might  sleep  with 
it  unharmed.  In  the  mean  time  it  was  a  relief  to  see 
the  innocent  creature  hasten  to  secrete  itself  in  a  lime 
hedge  close  at  hand.    Lizards,  tarantulas,  and  cha- 


270 


DUE  SOUTH. 


meleons  are  frequently  seen,  but  are  considered  to  be 
harmless.  One  often  awakes  in  the  morning  to  see 
lizards  upon  his  chamber  wall,  searching  for  flies  and 
insects,  upon  which  the}^  feed. 

The  Cuban  bloodhound,  of  which  we  hear  so  much, 
is  not  a  native  of  the  island,  but  belongs  to  an  im- 
ported breed,  resembling  the  English  mastiff,  though 
with  larger  head  and  limbs.  He  is  by  nature  a  fierce, 
bloodthirsty  animal,  but  the  particular  qualities  which 
fit  him  for  tracing  the  runaway  slaves  are  almost  en- 
tirely acquired  by  careful  training.  This  is  accom- 
plished by  experts  in  the  business,  who  are  some- 
times Monteros,  and  sometimes  French  overseers  of 
plantations  who  are  out  of  work  or  regular  engage- 
ment. Each  estate  keeps  some  of  these  dogs  as  a 
preca.utionary  measure,  but  they  are  seldom  called 
into  use  of  late,  for  so  certain  is  the  slave  that  he  will 
be  instantly  followed  as  soon  as  missed,  and  inevi- 
tably traced  by  the  hounds,  that  he  rarely  attempts 
to  escape  from  his  master  unless  under  some  pecul- 
iarly aggravating  cause.  It  may  even  be  doubted 
whether  a  slave  would  be  pursued  to-day  v^^ere  he  to 
attempt  to  escape,  because  slavery  is  so  very  near  its 
last  gasp.  In  one  respect  this  is  an  advantage  to  the 
negroes,  since  the  master,  feeling  this  indifference, 
grants  the  blacks  more  freedom  of  action.  So  per- 
fect of  scent  is  the  Cuban  bloodhound  that  the  mas- 
ter has  only  to  obtain  a  bit  of  clothing  left  behind  by 
the  runaway  and  give  it  to  the  hound  to  smell.  The 
dog  will  then  follow  the  slave  through  a  whole  popu- 
lation of  his  class,  and  with  his  nose  to  the  ground 
lead  straight  to  his  hiding-place. 

For  three  centuries  Cuba  has  been  the  hotbed  of 
African  slaver3\    Few,  if  any,  have  been  imported 


HOTBED  OF  AFRICAN  SLAVERY.  271 


during  the  last  thirty  years,  that  is  to  say  since  1855, 
during  which  year  some  cargoes  were  successfully 
run.  In  1816,  the  Spanish  government,  in  a  solemn 
treaty,  declared  its  conviction  of  the  injustice  of  the 
slave  trade.  On  the  23d  of  September,  1817,  in 
consideration  of  four  hundred  thousand  pounds  ster- 
ling paid  as  an  equivalent  by  Great  Britian,  Spain 
ratified  a  treaty  proclaiming  that  the  slave  trade  sliould 
cease  throughout  all  the  dominions  of  that  country 
on  the  30th  day  of  May,  1820,  and  tliat  it  should  not 
afterwards  be  lawful  for  any  Spanish  subject  to  pur- 
chase slaves.  It  was  further  declared  by  the  home 
government  that  all  blacks  brought  from  Africa  sub- 
sequent to  that  date  should  be  at  once  set  free,  and 
the  vessel  on  which  tliey  were  transported  should  bo 
confiscated,  while  the  captain,  crew,  and  others  con- 
cerned should  be  punished  with  ten  years'  penal  servi- 
tude. Yet,  as  all  the  world  knows,  tliis  was  nothing 
more  than  a  dead  letter  so  far  as  Cuba  was  concerned, 
and  so  late  as  1815,  statistics  show  an  arrival  of  im- 
ported slaves  from  Africa  of  fifteen  thousand  negroes 
annually,  for  the  previous  twenty  years.  Tacon, 
Governor-General  from  June,  1834,  until  April,  1838, 
like  his  predecessors  and  successors  made  no  secret 
of  receiving  seventeen  dollars  per  liead,  — that  is  one 
doubloon,  —  on  every  slave  landed.  Other  officials 
spent  their  fees  on  themselves  or  hoarded  them  for  a 
fortune  to  be  enjoyed  on  returning  home  to  Spain, 
but  Tacon  expended  his  in  beautifying  Havana  and 
its  environs.  That  the  home  government  secretly 
fostered  the  slave  trade,  notwithstanding  the  solemn 
treaty  entered  into  with  Great  Britain,  no  one  pre- 
tends to  deny. 

The  coolie  S3'stem,  which  was  latterly  substituted 


272 


DUE  SOUTH, 


for  that  of  the  importation  of  Africans,  was  com- 
menced in  1847,  bat  it  was  only  slavery  under  an- 
other form,  being  in  point  of  humanity  even  more 
objectionable.  Fully  seventy  per  cent,  of  the  Chinese 
coolies  died  during  the  eight  years  they  were  bound 
by  their  contract  to  serve  their  masters !  Even  after 
that  period  was  completed,  unjust  laws  and  schemes 
were  adopted  to  retain  their  services  whenever  the 
planters  desired  it ;  but  the  truth  is,  the  planters, 
after  a  thorough  experience,  were  generally  glad  to 
get  rid  of  the  Mongolians.  All  of  them  were  decoyed 
from  home  under  false  pretenses  and  large  promises, 
and  only  arrived  in  Cuba  to  find  themselves  virtually 
slaves.  But  there  was  no  hel|)  for  them.  They  were 
thousands  of  miles  from  China,  in  a  land  of  whose 
Lmguage  they  knew  nothing,  and  so  they  were  obliged 
to  submit.  If  after  their  term  of  service  expired 
they  succeeded  in  reaching  Havana,  or  other  Cuban 
cities,  and  by  becoming  fruit  peddlers  or  engaging 
in  any  other  occupation  tried  to  earn  sufficient  money 
to  carry  them  back  to  their  native  land,  they  still 
were  brutally  treated  by  all  parties,  and  were  ever  at 
the  mercy  of  the  venal  police.  On  the  plantations 
they  received  perhnps  a  little  more  consideration 
than  the  blacks,  simply  because  they  were  less  trac- 
table and  more  dangerous  on  account  of  their  greater 
degree  of  intelligence  and  keener  sense  of  the  wrong 
done  them.  The  planter,  always  short  of  laborers, 
lias  heretofore  been  willing  to  pay  the  shipping- 
agencies  four  hundred  dollars  for  a  newly-arrived  coo- 
lie, whose  services  he  thus  secured  for  eight  years, 
the  coolies  at  the  expiration  of  the  period  to  receive 
a  mere  nominal  sum,  out  of  which  they  have  mostly 
been  cheated  by  some  means  or  other.    The  whole 


AII-^LEE  DBA  WS  A  PRIZE. 


273 


business  of  coolie  importation  is  vile  beyond  measure, 
and  must  have  included  in  its  aggregate  over  three 
hundred  thousLind  Chinese.  There  are  still  believed 
to  be  some  sixty  thousand  left  upon  the  island,  most 
of  whom  remain  because  they  have  no  means  of  re- 
turning: to  their  native  land.  Half  of  these  subsist 
by  begging.  Broken  in  health  and  spirits,  they  await 
the  coming  of  that  final  liberator  who  is  the  last 
friend  of  suffering  humanity. 

The  Chinese  are  best  adapted  to  the  work  of  the 
cigar  factories,  where  they  excel  in  the  occupation 
of  cigar  and  cigarette  making,  and  many  hundreds 
are  thus  employed  in  Havana.  But  they  are  totally 
unfit  for  plantation  labor,  under  the  hardships  of 
which  their  feeble  frames  succumb.  They  prove 
themselves  very  good  servants  in  the  cities,  being 
very  quick  to  learn,  and  ready  to  adapt  themselves 
to  any  light  occupation.  A  Chinaman  is  sly,  cun- 
ning, and,  to  a  certain  degree,  enterprising;  but  he 
must  be  trusted  cautiously.  As  a  house-servant,  foot- 
man, cook,  or  waiter  he  is  admirable.  Here,  in  this 
to  him  foreign  land,  he  cannot  suppress  his  instinct 
for  gambling ;  it  seems  to  be  born  in  him,  and  he 
will  often  lose  in  an  hour  the  hard  accumulation  of 
months,  or  even  years.  As  to  the  lottery,  he  is 
always  the  purchaser  of  portions  of  tickets  at  every 
drawing,  and  occasionally  becomes  a  winner.  A 
thrifty  Chinaman,  for  there  are  some  such  even  in 
Havana,  bearing  the  characteristic  name  of  Ah-Lee, 
connected  with  a  bric:ibrac  store  on  the  Calzada  de 
la  Reina,  held  a  lucky  number  in  the  lottery  drawn 
during  our  brief  stay  at  the  Hotel  Telegrafo.  When 
the  prizes  were  announced,  lie  found  tliat  he  was  en- 
titled to  five  hundred  dollars.  The  agents  tried  to 
18 


274 


DUE  SOUTH. 


pay  All-Lee  in  Cuban  currency,  but  be  was  too  smart 
for  them,  and  showed  them  their  own  announcement 
promising  to  cash  all  prizes,  with  the  usual  discount, 
in  gold.  So  Ah-Lee  got  his  prize  finally  in  gold. 
We  were  told  by  one  whose  experience  was  exten- 
sive, and  whose  testimony  was  worthy  of  respecfc, 
that  the  coolies  would  lie  and  steal  with  such  appar- 
ent innocence  as  to  deceive  the  most  wary,  and  that 
as  regards  their  moral  nature  it  seemed  to  be  totally 
undeveloped.  For  our  own  part  vfe  still  sympathize 
with  John.  He  has  been  so  outrageously  cheated 
and  abused  from  the  liour  when  he  stepped  on  board 
the  transport  ship  which  brought  him  from  China  up 
to  the  present  time  that  he  has  learned  the  trick  of 
it.  If  he  is  not  strong  enough  to  demand  his  rights, 
we  certainly  hope  that  he  may  have  sufficient  cunning 
to  obtain  them  by  outwitting  his  adversaries. 

In  their  slave  condition  the  Chinese  coolies  and 
the  negroes  were  at  times  so  affected  by  a  spirit  of 
superstition  as  to  cause  them  to  commit  suicide,  the 
latter  actuated,  as  it  seemed,  by  a  feeling  of  despair, 
the  former  through  a  vindictive  spirit  towards  their 
masters.  Both  were  also  nioved  by  a  superstitious 
conviction  that  their  spirits  would  at  once  be  returned 
to  their  native  land,  to  inhabit  a  sort  of  spirit  para- 
dise or  intermediate  state  between  earth  and  lieaven. 
It  is  very  strange  that  so  peculiar  and  so  similar  a 
belief  should  be  indigenous  in  the  minds  of  such 
distinctive  races.  At  the  period  when  the  free  im- 
portation from  Africa  was  carried  on,  the  most  diffi- 
cult thing  the  planters  had  to  contend  with  was  a 
proneness  to  suicide  on  the  part  of  those  slaves  who 
were  newly  imported,  and  who  entertained  this  same 
remarkable  idea. 


NATIVE  AFRICAN  RACES. 


275 


Though  we  abhor  the  entire  system  of  Cuban 
labor,  yet  it  cannot  be  denied  that  the  slaves,  so  far 
as  material  comfort  goes,  are  better  lodged,  fed,  and 
cared  for  than  four  fifths  of  the  population  of  Ire- 
land and  India,  and,  furthermore,  this  comparison 
will  hold  good  as  regards  a  large  portion  of  conti- 
nental Europe.  A  well-fed,  well-kept  negro  is  twice 
as  valuable,  twice  as  serviceable  to  his  master  as  a 
neglected  one,  and  no  one  knows  this  better  than  the 
master  who  governs  his  slaves  on  purely  mercenary 
grounds,  and  is  yet  very  careful  to  supply  liberally 
their  pliysical  wants.  These  slaves  are  descended 
from  various  African  tribes,  whose  characteristics  are 
so  marked  as  to  be  easily  discernible  even  by  strangers. 
The  Congoes  are  small  in  stature,  but  very  agile  and 
good  workers,  and  in  past  years  they  have  been  a  fa- 
vorite tribe.  The  Fantees  are  a  larger  race  of  negroes, 
hard  to  manage,  and  possessing  a  revengt^ful  nature. 
Those  from  the  Gold  Coast  are  still  more  powerful  in 
body,  but  are  good-natured  and  well-liked  by  planters. 
The  Ebros  are  less  black  than  those  already  named, 
almost  mulatto  in  complexion,  and  make  favorite  house 
servants.  The  Ashantees  are  of  another  prominent 
tribe,  and  are  also  popular  as  plantation  hands,  but 
not  numerous. 

The  tattooed  faces,  bodies,  and  limbs  of  a  large 
portion  of  the  slaves,  especially  of  the  hands  upon  the 
plantations,  shows  their  African  nativity,  while  the 
smooth  skin  and  generally  greater  degree  of  intelli- 
gence of  others  show  them  to  have  been  born  in 
slavery  upon  the  island.  These  latter  are  mostly 
sought  for  service  in  the  cities.  They  are  remark- 
ably liealthy  when  not  overworked,  and  form  the 
most  vigorous  part  of  the  population.    When  an  epi- 


276 


DUE  SOUTH. 


deinic  breaks  out  among  the  blacks,  it  seoms  to  curry 
them  off  by  wholesale,  proving  much  more  fatal  than 
among  the  whites.  Cholera,  small-pox,  and  pneu- 
monia sometimes  sweep  them  off  at  a  fearful  rate. 
It  is  a  curious  fact  that  if  a  negro  is  really  ill,  he 
requires  just  twice  as  much  medicine  to  affect  him  as 
a  white  person. 

There  are  said  to  be  three  hundred  thousand  free 
negroes  on  the  island,  of  whom  comparatively  few 
are  found  inland  upon  the  plantations;  they  are  all 
inclined  to  congregate  in  the  cities  and  large  towns, 
where,  truth  compels  us  to  say,  they  prove  to  be  an 
idle  and  vicious  class,  and  as  a  body  useless  both  to 
themselves  and  to  the  public.  There  are  believed  to 
be  at  present  in  Cuba  ab{)ut  one  hundred  and  forty 
thousand  male  and  about  sixty  thousand  female 
slaves.  To  carry  on  the  great  industry  of  the  island 
as  systematized  by  the  planters,  this  number  of  hands 
is  entirely  inadequate.  It  is  sometimes  asked  how 
there  came  to  be  so  many  free  negroes  in  the  island. 
It  should  be  clearly  understood  that  the  laws  which 
govern  Cuba  are  made  by  the  home  government,  not 
by  tlie  planters  or  natives  of  Cuba,  and  that  indi- 
rectly these  laws  have  long  favored  emancipation  of 
the  blacks.  For  many  years  any  slave  has  enjoyed 
the  right  to  go  to  a  magistrate  and  have  himself 
appraised,  and  upon  paying  the  price  thus  set  upon 
himself  he  can  receive  his  free  papers.  The  valua- 
tion is  made  by  three  persons,  of  whom  the  master 
appoints  one,  and  the  magistrate  two.  The  slave 
may  pay  by  installments  of  fifty  dollars  at  a  time, 
but  he  owes  his  full  service  to  his  master  until  the 
last  and  entire  payment  is  made.  If  the  valuation  be 
twelve  hundred  dollars,  after  the  slave  has  paid  one 


A  LAW  IGNORED. 


277 


hundred  he  owns  one  twelfth  of  himself,  and  the 
master  eleven  twelfths,  and  so  on.  Until  all  is  paid, 
however,  the  master's  dominion  over  the  slave  is 
complete.  There  has  also  long  been  another  pecul- 
iar law  in  operation.  A  slave  may  on  the  same 
valuation  compel  his  master  to  transfer  him  to  any 
person  who  will  pay  the  money  in  full,  and  this  has 
often  been  done  where  slave  and  master  disagree. 
This  law,  as  will  be  seen,  must  have  operated  as  it 
was  designed  to  do,  as  a  check  upon  masters,  and  as 
an  inducement  for  them  to  remove  special  causes  of 
complaint  and  dissatisfaction.  It  has  also  enabled 
slaveholders  of  the  better  class,  in  the  case  of  ill- 
usage  of  blacks,  to  relieve  them  by  paying  down  their 
appraised  value  and  appropriating  their  services  to 
themselves.  All  this  relates  to  the  past  rather  than 
the  present,  since,  as  we  have  explained,  the  relation- 
ship of  slave  and  master  is  now  so  nearly  at  an  end 
as  to  render  such  arrangements  inoperative. 

There  was  a  law  promulgated  in  1870,  — the  out- 
growth of  the  revolution  of  1868,  which  dethroned 
Isabella  II., —  declaring  every  slave  in  Cuba  to  be 
free  after  reaching  the  age  of  sixty,  and  also  freeing 
the  children  of  all  slaves  born  subsequent  to  that 
year.  But  that  law  has  been  ignored  altogether,  and 
was  not  permitted  even  to  be  announced  officially 
upon  the  island.  In  the  first  place,  few  hard  worked 
slaves  survive  to  the  age  of  sixty;  and  in  the  second 
place,  the  children  have  no  one  to  look  after  or  to 
enforce  their  rights.  Spain  never  yet  kept  troth 
with  her  subjects,  or  with  anybody  else,  and  the 
passage  of  the  law  referred  to  was  simply  a  piece 
of  political  finesse,  designed  for  the  eye  of  tlie  Euro- 
pean states,  and  more  particularly  to  soothe  England, 


278 


DUE  SOUTH. 


which  country  had  lately  showed  considerable  feeling 
and  restlessness  touching  the  disregard  of  all  treaties 
between  herself  and  Spain. 

The  slaves  who  still  remain  upon  the  plantations 
appear  in  all  outward  circumstances  to  be  thought- 
less and  comparatively  content;  their  light  and  cheer- 
ful nature  seems  to  lift  them  above  the  influence  of 
brutal  treatment  when  it  is  encountered.  That  they 
have  been  called  upon  to  suffer  much  by  being  over- 
tasked and  cruelly  punished  in  the  past,  there  is  no 
doubt  whatever,  but  it  may  be  safely  stated  that 
their  condition  has  been  greatly  improved  of  late. 
The  owners  are  obliged  by  law  to  instruct  the  slaves 
in  the  Catholic  faith,  but  this  has  never  been  heeded 
to  any  extent  by  the  planters,  though  all  the  chil- 
dren are  baptized  in  infancy.  The  law  relative  to 
the  treatment  of  the  negroes  also  prescribes  a  cer- 
tain quantity  and  quality  of  food  to  be  regularly 
furnished  to  them,  but  the  masters  are  generally  lib- 
eral in  this  respect,  and  exceed  the  requirements  of 
the  law,  as  their  mercenary  interest  is  obviously  in 
that  direction.  The  masters  know  by  experience  that 
slaves  will  not  work  well  unless  well  fed.  With  no 
education  or  culture  whatever,  their  intelligence  re- 
mains at  the  lowest  ebb.  With  plenty  of  food  and 
sleep,"  said  an  owner  to  us,  they  are  as  easily  man- 
aged as  any  other  domestic  animals." 

Until  latterly  the  slaves  have  been  carefully  watched 
at  night,  but  nearly  all  these  precautions  against 
their  escaping  from  servitude  seem  to  have  been 
dropped.  They  are  no  longer  locked  up  in  corral, 
their  special  night  quarters.  Of  course  they  are  kept 
within  certain  bounds,  but  the  rigorous  surveillance 
under  which  they  have  always  lived  is  no  longer  in 


DISPARITY  BETWEEN  THE  SEXES,  279 


force.  The  two  sexes  are  nominally  separated,  but 
as  there  is  no  strict  recognition  of  the  maiital  re- 
lation, and  free  intercommunication  between  thetn 
really  exists,  the  state  of  morality  rnay  be  imagined. 
It  has  always  been  customary  for  mothers  to  receive 
certain  consideration  and  partial  relief  from  hard 
labor  during  a  reasonable  period  prior  to  and  sub- 
sequent to  their  confinement,  with  encouraging  gifts 
from  the  masters,  which  has  caused  them  generally 
to  covet  the  condition  of  maternity.  Still  the  propor- 
tion of  female  slaves  on  the  plantations  has  always 
been  so  small,  compared  with  that  of  the  other  sex, 
that  not  nearly  so  many  children  are  born  as  would 
be  supposed.  Female  slaves  have  generally  been 
sent  to  town  service,  even  when  boi-n  on  the  plan- 
tations. 

It  has  always  been  clearly  understood  that  the 
births  on  the  part  of  the  negroes  in  Cuba  have  not 
nearly  kept  pace  with  the  number  of  deaths  among 
them,  even  under  apparently  favorable  circumstances. 
One  has  not  far  to  look  for  the  reason  of  this.  Pro- 
miscuous intercourse  is  undoubtedly  the  predisposing 
cause,  which  is  always  an  outgrowth  of  a  largely  un- 
equal division  of  the  sexes.  On  the  plantations  the 
male  negroes  outnumber  the  females  ten  to  one.  In 
the  cities  the  males  are  as  five  to  one.  When  the 
slave  trade  was  carried  on  between  Africa  and  the 
island,  the  plan  was  to  bring  over  males  only,  but  it 
was  hardly  practicable  to  adhere  strictly  to  the  rule, 
so  women  were  not  declined  when  a  cargo  was  being 
made  up  and  nearly  completed.  Thus  a  disparity 
was  inaugurated  which  has  continued  to  the  present 
day,  with  only  a  slight  equalizing  tendency. 

The  present  plan  of  fieeing  the  slaves  recommends 


280 


DUE  SOUTH. 


itself  to  all  persons  who  fully  understand  the  position, 
and  if  it  be  honestly  carried  out  will  soon  obliterate 
the  crime  of  enforced  labor  upon  the  island.  A  sud- 
den freeing  of  the  blacks,  that  is,  all  at  once,  would 
have  been  attended  with  much  risk  to  all  parties, 
although  justice  and  humanity  demand  tlieii-  libera- 
tion. France  tried  the  experiment  in  St.  Domingo, 
and  the  result  was  a  terrible  state  of  anarchy.  Not 
only  did  she  lose  possession  of  the  island,  but  the 
people  settled  down  by  degrees  into  all  the  horrors 
of  African  savagery,  even  to  cannibalism.  England 
followed,  and  generously  paid  the  British  planters  of 
Jamaica  for  all  their  slaves,  giving  the  latter  uncon- 
ditional freedom.  Of  course  this  ruined  the  island 
commercially,  but  it  was  strict  justice,  nevertheless. 
Extreme  measures  are  open  to  objection  even  in  be- 
half of  justice.  It  was  hoped  that  the  freed  negroes 
of  Jamaica  would  become  thrifty  and  industrious, 
earning  fair  wages,  and  that  crops  would  still  be 
remunerative,  but  it  was  not  so.  The  negro  of  the 
tropics  will  only  work  when  he  is  compelled,  and  in 
the  West  Indies  he  has  scarcely  more  to  do,  as  it 
regards  sustaining  life,  than  to  pluck  of  the  wild 
fruits  and  to  eat.  The  sugar  plantations  of  Jamaica 
have  simply  ceased  to  exist. 

Everj^  reasonable  Cuban  has  long  realized  that 
the  freedom  of  the  blacks  was  but  a  question  of  time, 
and  that  it  must  soon  be  brought  about,  but  how 
this  could  be  accomplished  without  rendering  them 
liable  to  the  terrible  consequences  which  befell  St. 
Domingo  was  a  serious  problem.  The  commercial 
wreck  of  Jamaica  had  less  terror  for  them  as  an 
example,  since  of  late  their  own  condition  could  in 
that  respect  hardly  be  worse.    Therefore,  the  man- 


GENERAL  EMANCIPATION. 


281 


umitting  of  one  slave  in  every  four  annually,  so 
organized  that  all  shall  be  free  on  January  1,  1888, 
is  considered  with  great  favor  by  the  people  gener- 
ally^, except  the  most  radical  of  old  Spaniards.  All 
are  thus  prepared  for  the  change,  which  is  so  grad- 
ually brought  about  as  to  cause  no  great  shock.  It 
is  not  unreasonable  to  believe  that  the  instantane- 
ous freeing  of  all  the  slaves  would  have  led  to  mu- 
tual destruction  of  whites  and  blacks  all  over  the 
island. 


CHAPTER  XIY. 


Slave  Trade  with  Africa.  —  Where  the  Slavers  made  their  Landing. 

—  An  Early  Morning  Ride.  —  Shives  marching  to  Daily  Labor.  — 
Fragrance  of  the  Early  Day. —  Mist  upon  the  Waters.  —  A  Slave 
Ship.  —  A  Beautiful  but  Guilty  Brigantine.  —  A  French  Cruiser.  — 
Cunning  Seamanship.  — A  Wild  Goose  Chase.  —  A  Cuban  Posada. 

—  Visit  to  a  Coffee  Estate.  —  Landing  a  Slave  Cargo.  —  A  Sight 
to  challenge  Sympathy  and  Lidignalion.  —  Half-Starved  Victims. 

—  Destruction  of  the  Slave  Ship. 

The  author's  first  visit  to  the  island  of  Cuba  was 
during  the  year  1845,  at  a  period  when  the  slave 
traffic  was  vigorously,  though  surreptitiously  carried 
on  between  Africa  and  the  island.  The  trade  was 
continued  so  late  as  1853,  and  occasional  cargoes  were 
brought  over  even  later,  slavers  having  been  captured 
on  the  south  coast  two  years  subsequent  to  the  last 
named  date.  The  slave  vessels  generally  sought  a 
landing  on  the  south  side,  both  as  being  nearest  and 
safest  for  them,  but  when  they  were  hard  pressed 
they  made  a  port  wherever  it  could  be  most  easily 
reached.  A  favorite  point  at  the  time  of  which  we 
speak,  was  in  the  Bay  of  Broa,  on  the  south  coast, 
nearly  opposite  to  the  Isle  of  Pines.  It  was  here  in 
1845  that  the  author  witnessed  a  scene  which  forms 
the  theme  of  the  following  chapter.  A  superior 
knowledge  of  all  the  hidden  bays  and  inlets  of  the 
south  side  gave  the  contrabandists  great  advantages 
over  any  pursuing  vessel,  and  their  lighter  draught  of 
water  enabled  them  to  navigate  their  small  crafts 
where  it  was  impossible  for  a  heavy  ship  to  follow. 


A  GANG  OF  SLAVES, 


283 


We  were  on  a  brief  visit  to  tlie  coffee  estate  of  Don 
Herero,  near  Gaines,  and  having  expressed  a  desire 
to  visit  the  southern  coast,  our  host  proposed  that  we 
should  do  so  together  on  the  following  day.  We 
were  to  start  on  horseback  quite  early  in  the  morn- 
ing, so  as  to  accomplish  the  distance  before  the  heat 
of  the  sun  should  become  oppressive. 

The  early  day  is  almost  as  beautiful  as  the  even- 
ings of  this  region,  a  fact  to  which  we  were  fully 
awakened  at  an  early  hour,  after  a  refreshing  night's 
sleep.  Don  Herero  was  already  awaiting  us  on  the 
broad  piazza,  which  we  reached  in  time  to  see  the 
slaves,  directed  by  an  overseer,  file  past  the  house  to- 
wards the  field.  A  couple  of  hours  before  sunrise,'* 
said  our  host,  ''is  the  best  time  for  them  to  work,  and 
we  add  these  two  hours  to  their  noon  rest,  so  that  it 
divides  the  labor  to  better  advantage  and  avoids  the 
midday  heat,"  There  were  perhaps  seventy  or  eighty 
of  this  gang  of  slaves,  one  fifth  only  being  women. 
Don  Herero  went  among  them  and  exchanged  some 
pleasant  words,  mostly  with  the  women,  one  of  whom, 
evidently  in  a  delicate  situation,  he  singled  out  and 
led  aside,  directing  her  to  return  to  the  huts.  It 
seemed  that  she  had  prepared  to  go  to  the  field,  but 
he  did  not  approve  of  it,  and  she  acquiesced  good  na- 
turedly.  It  was  observed  also  that  he  gave  her  a 
piece  of  money  with  a  pleasant  word,  bidding  her  to 
purchase  some  coveted  piece  of  finery,  —  probably  a 
gaudy  "  bandana,"  of  whose  bright  colors  the  negro 
women  are  very  fond,  binding  them  turban-fashion 
about  their  curly  heads.  Another  passion  among 
the  Cuban  negresses  is  a  desire  for  large  hoop  ear- 
rings. Silver,  or  even  brass  will  answer,  if  gold  can- 
not be  obtained. 


284 


DUE  SOUTH, 


As  we  rode  off  that  delicious  morning  towards  our 
destination,  mounted  upon  a  couple  of  bright  little 
eas3^-going  Cuban  ponies,  with  their  manes  and  tails 
roached  (that  is,  trimmed  closely,  after  a  South  Amer- 
ican fashion),  the  cool,  fresh  air  was  as  stimulating  * 
as  wine.  At  first  we  passed  down  the  long  avenue  of 
pahns  which  formed  the  entrance  of  the  plantation, 
and  which  completely  embowered  the  road,  like  the 
grand  old  oaks  one  sometimes  sees  lining  the  ave- 
nues to  rural  English  estates.  The  delicious  fragrance 
of  the  morning  atmosphere,  still  moist  with  dew,  the 
richness  of  the  foliage,,  and  the  abundance  of  fruit 
and  flowers  were  charming  beyond  description.  We 
glided  along  at  an  easy  gait  over  the  roads,  which 
in  this  thickly  populated  district  were  smooth  and 
admirably  kept,  lined  on  either  side  by  hedges  of 
the  flowering  aloe,  intermingled  with  many  sweet- 
scented  shrubs,  all  trimmed  with  mathematical  pre- 
cision. But  the  gayest  and  prettiest  hedges  were 
composed  of  the  bitter  orange,  all  aglow  with  small 
j^ellow  fruit,  hanging  in  almost  artificial  regularity 
and  abundance.  This  immediate  district  was  at  that 
time  in  possession  of  wealthy  owners,  who  vied  with 
each  other  in  rendering  their  surroundino;s  attractive 
to  the  eye.  Now"  and  again  we  met  little  gangs  of 
trusted  slaves,  who  had  been  sent  out  on  special  er- 
rands, all  of  whom  recognized  Don  Herero,  and  made 
liim  a  respectful  obeisance,  which  he  very  carefully 
returned.  There  is  a  strict  degree  of  etiquette  sus- 
tained in  regard  to  these  small  matters  between  the 
slaves  and  whites,  which  goes  far  in  maintaining  re- 
spect and  discipline. 

A  ride  of  a  couple  of  leagues  or  more  brought  us 
finally  to  a  gentle  rise  of  ground,  which  opened  to  our 


MIST  UPON  THE  WATERS. 


285 


view  the  ocean,  and  a  line  of  coast  extending  for 
many  miles  east  and  west.  It  was  still  quite  early, 
and  a  morning  mist  hung  over  the  qaiet  Caribbean 
Sea,  which  stretches  away  southward  towards  the  Isle 
of  Pines  and  the  more  distant  isle  of  Jamaica.  A 
gentle  breeze  began  at  that  moment  to  disperse  the 
mist  and  gradually  in  conjunction  with  the  sun  to 
lift  the  veil  from  the  face  of  the  v/aters.  For  a  con- 
siderable time,  however,  only  a  circumscribed  view 
was  to  be  had,  but  Don  Herero  observed  that  the  mist 
was  quite  unusual ;  indeed,  that  he  had  seen  such  a 
phenomenon  but  once  or  twice  before  on  Cuban 
shores.  He  assured  us  that  with  the  exercise  of  a 
little  patience  we  should  soon  be  rewarded  by  a  clear 
and  extensive  view.  So  dismounting  and  lighting  our 
cigars  we  leaned  upon  the  saddles  of  the  horses  and 
watched  the  wreaths  of  the  mist  bank  gradually 
dissolving.  To  the  eastward  there  jutted  out  a  prom- 
ontory with  a  considerable  elevation,  behind  which 
the  sun  began  to  show  his  florid  countenance.  Pres- 
ently the  indistinct  outline  of  a  graceful  tracery  of 
spars  and  cordage  greeted  the  eye  through  the  misty 
gauze,  growing  steadily  more  and  more  distinct  and 
gradually  descending  towards  the  sea  level,  until  at 
last  there  lay  before  us  in  full  view,  with  a  look  of 
treacherous  tranquillity,  the  dark,  low  hull  of  a  brigan- 
tine. 

A  slaver  !  "  was  the  mutual  and  simultaneous  ex- 
clamation which  burst  from  our  lips  as  Ave  gazed 
intently  on  the  small  but  symmetrical  vessel. 

Don  Herero  looked  particularly  intelligent,  but 
said  nothing.  There  could  be  no  doubt  as  to  the 
trade  which  engaged  such  a  clipper  craft.  No  legiti- 
mate commerce  was  suggested  by  her  appearance,  no 


286 


DUE  SOUTH. 


honest  trade  demanded  such  manifest  sncrlfice  of 
carrying  capacity.  It  was  very  natural  that  her 
guilty  character  should  add  interest  to  her  appearance 
and  cause  us  to  examine  her  very  minutely.  A  short 
distance  from  where  we  stood  there  w^as  gathered  a 
group  of  a  dozen  or  more  persons,  wdio  silently  re- 
garded the  brigantine,  but  they  evinced  no  surprise 
at  her  appearance  there  so  close  to  the  shore.  She 
was  of  a  most  graceful  model,  perfect  in  every  line, 
with  bows  almost  as  sharp  as  a  knife.  The  rig  was 
also  quite  unusual  and  entirely  new  to  us.  Her  deck 
was  flush  fore  and  aft.  Not  so  much  as  an  inch  of 
rise  was  allowed  for  a  quarter-deck,  a  style  which 
gave  large  stowage  capacity  below  deck,  the  level  of 
which  came  up  to  within  a  couple  of  feet  of  the  cap- 
pings  of  the  bulwarks.  As  we  have  before  intimated, 
it  required  no  interpreter  to  indicate  what  business 
the  brigantine  was  engaged  in.  A  single  glance  at 
her,  lying  in  so  unfrequented  a  place,  was  enough. 
The  rakish  craft  was  of  Baltimore  build,  of  about  two 
hundred  tons  measurement,  and,  like  many  another 
vessel  turned  out  by  the  Maryland  builders,  was  de- 
signed to  make  successfully  the  famous  middle  pas- 
sage to  or  from  the  coast  of  Cuba,  loaded  with  kid- 
napped negroes  from  the  shores  of  Africa.  The  two 
requisites  of  these  clippers  were  great  speed  and  large 
stowage  capacity  for  a  human  freight. 

At  first  it  appeared  as  though  Don  Herero  had 
purposely  brought  us  here  to  witness  the  scene,  but 
this  he  insisted  was  not  the  case,  declaring  that  the 
presence  of  the  slaver  was  a  surprise  to  him.  Be 
that  as  it  may,  it  was  clear  that  a  cargo  of  negroes 
was  about  to  be  landed,  and  certain  rapid  signals 
had  been  exchanged  by  flags  from  a  neighboring  hut 


A  SLAVE  SHIP. 


287 


ever  since  the  mist  lifted.  Repulsive  as  the  idea  was 
to  a  Northerner,  still  it  would  do  no  good  to  avoid 
the  sight,  and  so  we  resolved  to  witness  the  disem- 
barkation. Our  friend,  though  a  slaveholder,  was  so 
more  by  force  of  circumstances  than  through  his  own 
choice  ;  he  did  not  defend  the  institution  at  all.  His 
solemn  convictions  were  entirely  against  slavery,  and 
he  more  than  once  said  he  heartily  wished  that  some 
means  might  be  devised  which  should  gradually  and 
effectually  relieve  the  planters  from  the  entire  sys- 
tem and  its  many  troubles.  Don  Herero  now  lies  in 
one  of  the  tombs  in  the  Campo  Santo,  near  Havana, 
but  were  he  living  he  would  doubtless  rejoice  at  the 
present  manner  of  solving  a  question  which  was  so 
involved  in  perplexity  during  the  last  of  his  days. 

While  we  were  exchanging  some  reuiarks  upon  the 
subject,  our  attention  was  suddenly  drawn  towards 
another  striking  object  upon  the  waters  of  the  bay. 

Nearly  a  league  beyond  the  slaver,  looming  up 
above  the  mist,  we  could  now  make  out  three  top- 
masts, clearly  defined,  the  stately  set  of  Avhich,  with 
tlieir  firm  and  substantial  rig,  betrayed  the  fact  that 
there  floated  beneath  them  the  hull  of  a  French  or 
an  English  man-of-war,  such  as  was  commissioned  at 
that  time  to  cruise  in  these  waters  for  the  purpose  of 
intercepting  and  capturing  the  vessels  engaged  in  the 
African  slave  trade. 

A  cruiser  has  scented  the  brigantine,"  said  Don 
Herero. 

''It  certainly  appears  so,"  we  affirmed. 

"  Unless  there  be  sharp  eyes  on  board  the  little 
craft,  the  cruiser  will  be  down  upon  her  before  her 
people  even  suspect  their  danger." 

''  The  brigantine  can  hardly  escape,  at  any  rate," 
we  suggested. 


288 


DUE  SOUTH. 


Don't  be  too  sure,"  said  Don  Herero. 

It  was  impossible  for  our  friend  to  suppress  the 
nervous  anxiety  which  so  manifestly  actuated  him  as 
he  viewed  the  new  phase  of  affairs. 

"  Look  I  Look  I  **  he  exclaimed. 

While  he  spoke,  a  drapery  of  snow-white  canvas 
fell  like  magic  from  the  spars  of  the  slaver,  ready  to 
catch  the  first  breath  of  the  breeze  which  the  stran- 
ger was  bringing  down  with  him,  though  the  larger 
vessel  was  still  partially  wrapped  in  a  thin  bank  or 
cloud  of  fog.  A  couple  of  long  sweeps  were  rigged 
out  of  either  bow  of  tlie  brigantine,  and  her  prow, 
which  just  before  was  heading  shoreward,  was  swung 
to  seaward,  while  her  canvas  was  trimmed  to  catch 
the  first  breath  of  the  on-coming  breeze. 

This  looks  like  business,"  said  Don  Herero  with 
emphasis,  at  the  same  time  shading  his  eyes  with 
both  hands  to  get  a  better  view  of  the  situation. 

Can  you  define  the  new-comer's  nationality  ?  " 
we  asked. 

"  Not  yet." 

"  See  !  she  is  now  in  full  siglit." 

"French  I  "  exclaimed  Don  Herero,  as  the  tri-col- 
ors  were  clearly  visible  hanging  from  her  peak. 

What  will  the  cruiser  do  with  the  brigantine  ?  " 
we  asked. 

"  First  catch  your  hare,"  said  our  friend. 

Our  host  then  explained  that  the  slaver  had  evi- 
dently intended  to  land  her  cargo  under  cover  of  the 
night,  but  had  been  prevented  by  the  mist  from  com- 
ing to  anchor  in  time.  Fog,  being  so  seldom  known 
on  this  coast,  had  not  entered  into  their  calculations. 
She  had  most  likely  felt  her  way  towards  the  shore 
by  soundings,  and  was  waiting  for  full  daylight  when 
we  discovered  her. 


A  FRENCH  CRUISER. 


289 


While  this  explanation  was  being  made,  the  brig- 
antine  had  ah-eady  got  steerage  way  upon  her,  aided 
by  the  steady  application  of  the  sweeps,  and  her 
sharp  bow  was  headed  off  shore.  Nothing  on  the 
sea,  unless  it  were  a  steamer,  could  hold  speed  with 
these  fly-aways,  which  were  built  for  just  such  emer- 
gencies as  the  present.  The  gradually  freshening 
breeze  had  now  dispersed  the  mist,  and  the  two  ves- 
sels were  clearly  in  view  from  the  shore  and  to  each 
other.  The  remarkable  interest  of  the  scene  increased 
with  each  moment.  Don  Herero,  with  all  the  excita- 
bility of  his  nationality,  could  hardly  contain  himself 
as  he  walked  rapidly  back  and  forth,  always  keeping 
his  eyes  towards  the  sea. 

The  cruiser  had  come  down  under  an  easy  spread 
of  canvas,  wearing  a  jib,  three  topsails,  fore,  main,  and 
mizzen,  and  her  spanker.  It  did  not  appear  as  if  she 
had  any  previous  intimation  of  the  presence  of  the 
slaver,  but  rather  that  she  was  on  the  watch  for  just 
such  a  quarry  as  chance  had  placed  within  reach  of 
her  guns.  The  moment  she  discovered  the  brigantine, 
and  at  a  signal  which  we  could  not  hear  upon  the 
land,  a  hundred  dark  objects  peopled  her  shrouds  and 
spars,  and  sail  after  sail  of  heavy  duck  was  rapidly 
dropped  and  sheeted  home,  until  the  mountain  of 
canvas  began  to  force  the  large  hull  through  the  water 
with  increasing  speed. 

In  the  mean  time  the  lesser  craft  had  been  by  no 
means  idle.  In  addition  to  the  regular  square  and 
fore  and  aft  sails  of  a  brigantine,  she  had  a  mizzen- 
mast  stepped  well  aft  not  more  than  four  feet  from 
her  taffrail,  upon  which  she  had  hoisted  a  spanker 
and  gaff-topsail,  thus  completing  a  most  graceful  and 
effective  rig,  and  spreading  a  vast  amount  of  canvas 

19 


290 


DUE  SOUTH. 


for  a  vessel  of  her  moderate  tonnage.  It  was  quite 
impossible  to  take  one's  eyes  off  the  two  vessels.  It 
was  a  race  for  life  with  the  slaver,  whose  people 
worked  with  good  effect  at  the  sweeps  and  in  trim- 
ming their  sails  to  make  the  most  out  of  the  light 
but  favorable  wind  that  was  filling  them.  The  larger 
vessel  would  liave  made  better  headway  in  a  stiff 
breeze  or  half  a  gale  of  wind,  but  the  present  moder- 
ate breeze  favored  the  guilty  little  brigantine,  which 
was  every  moment  forging  ahead  and  increasing  the 
distance  between  herself  and  her  enemy. 

Do  you  see  that  commotion  on  the  cruiser's  bow  ?  " 
asked  our  friend  eagerly. 

"  Some  men  are  gathered  on  the  starboard  bow," 
was  our  answer. 

"  Ay,  and  now  she  runs  out  a  gun  I  " 

That  was  plain  enough  to  see.  The  cruiser  trained 
a  bow-chaser  to  bear  on  the  slaver,  and  the  boom  of 
the  gun  came  sluggishly  over  the  sea  a  few  sec- 
onds after  the  puff  of  smoke  was  seen.  A  quick  eye 
could  see  the  dash  of  the  shot  just  astern  of  the  brig- 
antine, where  it  must  have  cast  the  spray  over  her 
quarter-deck.  After  a  moment's  delay,  as  if  to  get 
the  true  range,  a  second,  third,  and  fourth  shot  fol- 
lowed, each  ricochetting  through  and  over  the  slight 
waves  either  to  starboard  or  port  of  the  slaver,  without 
any  apparent  effect.  The  brigantine,  still  employing 
her  sweeps,  and  with  canvas  well  trimmed,  took  no 
notice  of  the  shots. 

Every  time  the  gun  was  discharged  on  board  the 
cruiser,  it  became  necessary  to  fall  oft  her  course  just 
a  point  or  two  in  order  to  get  a  proper  aim,  and  her 
captain  was  quick  to  see  the  disadvantage  of  this,  as  _ 
he  was  only  assisting  the  slaver  to  widen  the  distance 


A  WILD  GOOSE  CHASE. 


291 


between  tliem.  It  would  seem  to  the  uninitiated  to 
be  the  e.isiest  thing  possible  to  cripple  the  brigantine 
by  a  few  well  directed  sliots,  but  when  sailing  in  the 
wake  of  an  enemy  this  is  by  no  means  so  easily  done. 
Besides,  the  distance  between  the  two  vessels,  which 
was  considerable,  was  momentarily  increasing.  Not- 
withstanding that  the  broad  spread  of  canvas  on  board 
the  slaver  made  her  a  conspicuous  mark,  still,  so  far 
as  could  be  seen  or  judged  of  by  her  movements,  she 
remained  untouched  by  half  a  dozen  shots,  more  or 
less,  which  the  cruiser  sent  after  her  as  she  slipped 
away  from  her  big  adversary.  We  could  even  see 
that  the  sweeps  were  now  taken  in,  showing  that  the 
master  of  the  slaver  considered  the  game  to  be  in  his 
own  hands. 

The  brigantine  steers  due  south,"  said  our  friend, 
rubbing  his  hands  together  eagerly.  "  She  will  lead 
the  Frenchman  a  wild  goose  chase  among  the  Cay- 
man Isles,  where  he  will  be  most  likely  to  run  aground 
with  his  heavy  draught  of  water.  The  sea  round- 
about  for  leagues  is  underlaid  by  treacherous  coral 
reefs.    We  shall  see,  we  shall  see,"  he  reiterated. 

But  they  must  certainly  have  a  good  pilot  on 
board  the  cruiser,"  we  ventured  to  say. 

''Undoubtedly,"  replied  Don  Herero,  ''but  the 
brigantine  is  built  with  a  centre-board,  thus  having, 
as  it  were,  a  portable  keel,  and  can  sail  anywhere 
that  a  man  could  swim,  while  the  cruiser,  with  all  her 
armament,  must  draw  nearly  three  fathoms.  A  ship 
will  sometimes  follow  a  chase  into  dangerous  water." 

"True,"  we  responded,  "the  brigantine's  safety 
lies  in  seeking  shoal  water." 

"  You  are  right,  and  that  will  be  her  game." 

In  half  an  hour  both  vessels  were  hull  down  in  the 


292 


DUE  SOUTH, 


offing,  and  were  soon  invisible  from  our  point  of  view. 
Tiie  eiirly  ride  and  subsequent  excitement  liad  devel- 
oped in  us  a  healthy  appetite,  and  we  were  strongly 
reminded  of  the  fact  that  we  had  not  breakfasted. 
We  were  near  the  little  hamlet  of  Lenore,  where 
there  was  a  small  inn,  which  we  had  passed  on  the  way, 
and  towards  which  we  now  turned  our  horses'  heads. 
A  breakfast  of  boiled  eggs,  fried  plantains,  and  cof- 
fee was  prepared  for  us  and  well  served,  much  to  our 
surprise,  supplemented  by  a  large  dish  of  various 
fruits,  ripe  and  delicious.  Don  Herero  had  left  us  for 
a  few  moments  while  the  breakfast  was  preparing, 
and  it  must  have  been  owing  to  his  intelligent  instruc- 
tions that  we  were  so  nicely  served,  for,  as  a  rule, 
country  posadas  in  Cuba  are  places  to  be  avoided,  be- 
ing neither  cleanly  nor  comfortable.  For  strangers 
they  are  not  entirely  safe,  as  they  are  frequented  by 
a  very  rough  class  of  people.  These  idlers  do  not 
indulge  in  spirituous  liquors  to  excess,  partaking  only 
of  the  hght  Cataline  w^ine  in  universal  use  both  in 
Spain  and  her  colonies.  Intemperance  is  little  seen 
outside  the  large  cities,  but  gambling  and  quarreling 
are  ever  rampant  among  the  class  who  frequent  these 
posadas.  In  the  present  instance  there  were  a  dozen 
and  more  individuals  in  the  Lenore  inn  who  were 
more  or  less  connected  with  the  expected  arrival  of 
the  slave  brigantine,  and  tlie  disappointment  caused 
by  the  arrival  upon  the  scene  of  the  French  cruiser 
had  put  them  all  in  a  very  bad  humor.  Angry  words 
were  being  exchanged  among  them  in  the  large  re- 
ception apartment,  and  Don  Herero  suggested  that 
we  should  finish  our  cigars  under  an  inviting  shade 
in  the  rear  of  the  posada. 

At  our  host's  suggestion  a  neighboring  coffee  plan- 


THE  CLOSING  ACT. 


293 


tation  was  visited,  and  its  floral  and  vegetable  beauties 
thoroughly  enjoyed.  It  was  in  the  very  height  of 
fragrance  and  promise,  the  broad  expanse  of  the 
plantation,  as  far  as  the  eye  could  extend,  being  in 
full  bloom.  Some  hours  were  agreeably  passed  in 
examining  the  estate,  the  slaves'  quarters,  and  the 
domestic  arrangements,  and  also  in  partaking  of  the 
hospitalities  of  the  generous  owner,  after  which  we 
rode  back  to  Lenore. 

''We  must  not  miss  the  closing  act  of  our  little 
drama,"  said  Don  Herero,  significantly. 
The  closing  act?  "  we  inquired. 

''Certainly.  You  do  not  suppose  we  have  yet  done 
with  the  brigantine  ?  " 

"  Oh,  the  brigantine.  Will  she  dare  to  return,  now 
the  cruiser  has  discovered  her?" 

"  Of  course  she  will,  after  dropping  her  pursuer. 
Strange  that  these  French  cruisers  do  not  understand 
these  things  better ;  but  so  it  is." 

And  Don  Herero  explained  that  the  French  cruisers 
watched  the  southern  coasts  of  the  island,  while  the 
English  cruised  on  the  northern  shore,  attempted  to 
blockade  it,  and  also  cruised  farther  seaward,  on  the 
line  between  Africa  and  Cuba.  A  couple  of  Ameri- 
can men-of-war,  engaged  in  the  same  purpose  of 
suppressing  the  slave  trade,  patrolled  the  African 
coast.  It  was  nearly  night  before  we  got  through 
our  dinner  at  the  posada.  Just  as  we  were  preparing 
to  leave  the  table,  the  landlord  came  in  and  announced 
to  Don  Herero  that  if  we  desired  to  witness  the  close 
of  the  morning's  business  in  the  bay,  we  must  hurry 
up  to  the  plateau. 

We  hastened  to  our  former  position,  reaching  it 
just  in  time  to  see  the  brigantine  again  rounding  the 


294 


DUE  SOUTH. 


headldiid.  She  now  ran  in  close  to  the  shore,  where 
there  seemed  to  be  hardly  water  suihcient  to  float  her, 
but  the  exactness  and  system  which  characterized  her 
movements  showed  that  her  commander  was  not  a 
stranger  to  the  little  bay  in  which  he  had  brought 
his  vessel.  All  was  instantly  bustle  and  activity,  both 
on  board  and  on  shore.  There  were  not  more  than 
twenty  people  to  be  seen  at  the  shore,  but  each  one 
knew  his  business,  and  went  about  it  intelligently. 
There  was  no  more  loud  talking  or  disputation. 
These  men,  all  armed,  were  accustomed  to  this  sort 
of  thing,  and  had  evidently  been  awaiting  the  slav- 
er's arrival  for  some  days.  They  were  a  rough-look- 
ing set  of  desperadoes,  among  wliom  we  recognized 
several  who  had  been  at  tlie  posada. 

The  brigantine  was  quickly  moored  as  near  to  the 
shore  as  possible,  and  a  broad  gangway  of  wood  was 
laid  from  her  deck  to  a  projecting  rock,  over  which 
a  long  line  of  dark  objects  was  hurried,  like  a  flock 
of  sheep,  and  nearly  as  naked  as  when  born  into  the 
world.  We  walked  down  to  the  landing-place,  in 
order  to  get  a  closer  view.  The  line  of  human  beings 
who  came  out  from  below  the  deck  of  the  slaver  were 
mostly  full-grown  men,  but  occasionally  a  woman  or 
a  boy  came  out  and  hastened  forward  with  the  rest. 
As  w^e  drew  nearer,  one  or  two  of  the  w^omen,  it  was 
observed,  had  infants  in  their  arms,  little  unconscious 
creatures,  sound  asleep,  and  so  very  young  that  they 
must  have  been  born  on  the  voyage.  How  the 
entire  scene  appealed  to  our  indignation  and  sympa- 
thy!  What  misery  these  poor  creatures  must  have 
endured,  cooped  up  for  twenty-one  days  in  that  cir- 
cumscribed space!  They  were  all  shockingly  ema- 
ciated, having  sustained  life  on  a  few^  ounces  of  rice 


LANDING  A  SLAVE  CARGO. 


295 


and  a  few  gills  of  water  daily  distributed  to  them. 
The  atmosphere,  thoroughly  poisoned  when  so  con- 
fined, had  proved  fatal  to  a  large  number.  As  we 
stood  there,  one  dark  body  was  passed  up  from  below 
the  deck  and  quietly  dropped  into  the  bay.  Life  was 
extinct.  It  was  quite  impossible  to  suppress  a  shud- 
der as  we  looked  upon  the  disgraceful  scene,  which 
being  observed  Don  Herero  said,  — 

They  look  bad  enough  now,  but  a  few  days  in 
the  open  air,  with  a  plenty  of  fresh  vegetables,  fruits, 
and  sweet  water  to  drink,  will  bring  them  round. 
They  will  get  a  good  batli  directly  at  the  first  river 
they  cross,  which  is  the  thing  they  most  require." 

While  our  friend  was  speaking,  four  tall,  gaunt, 
fierce-looking  negroes  passed  us,  shackled  two  by  two 
at  th^  wrists.  Their  ej^es  rolled  curiously  about,  full 
of  wonder  at  all  they  saw,  everything  was  to  them  so 
strange.  They  knew  no  more  than  children  just  born 
what  was  in  store  for  them. 

"  Poor  fellows ! "  we  ejaculated.  Perhaps  they 
detected. sympathy  in  the  tone  of  voice  in  which  the 
words  were  uttered.  They  could  not  understand 
their  purport,  but  all  four  were  observed  to  turn 
their  eyes  quickly  towards  us,  with  an  intelligent 
expression. 

"  These  are  Ashantees,"  said  Don  Herero.  They 
have  thriven  but  poorly  on  their  small  allowance  of 
nourishment,  but  they  will  improve  rapidly  like  the 
rest,  now  they  have  landed.  They  belong  to  a  power- 
ful tribe  in  Africa,  and  are  rarely  captured  and  sold 
to  the  factories  on  the  coast.  They  are  sturdy  and 
serviceable  fellows,  but  they  must  be  humored.  The 
lash  will  not  subdue  them.  They  bring  a  high  price 
in  Havana  for  harbor  workers." 


296 


DUE  SOUTH. 


Hastening  back  to  the  posada,  a  large  basket  of 
cassava  bread  and  an  abundance  of  ripe  bananas  and 
oranges,  with  half  a  dozen  bottles  of  wine,  w^ere  pro- 
cured. With  these,  carried  by  a  couple  of  colored 
boys,  we  hastened  back  to  the  landing-place  in  time 
to  distribute  the  refreshments  to  all  the  women  and 
boys.  Tlie  balance  of  the  provisions  were  dealt  out 
to  the  few  men  who  had  not  already  been  hurried 
away  from  the  spot.  It  is  impossible  to  describe  the 
surprise  and  grateful  expression  upon  those  dusky 
faces  among  the  half-famished  creatures,  as  they 
eagerly  swallowed  a  portion  of  tlie  wine,  and  ate  freely 
of  the  delicious  fruit  and  nourishing  bread. 

We  were  told  alterwards  that  there  were  about 
three  hundred  and  fifty  of  these  poor  creatures  origi- 
nally embarked,  and  over  three  hundred  were  landed. 
Perhaps  between  thirty  and  forty  had  died  on  the 
passage,  unable  to  sustain  life  under  such  awful  cir- 
cumstances, packed,  as  they  necessarily  were,  almost 
like  herring  in  a  box.  Once  a  day,  in  fair  weatlier, 
thirty  or  forty  at  a  time  were  permitted  to  pass  a 
lialf  hour  on  deck.  That  was  all  the  respite  from 
their  confinement  which  they  enjoyed  during  the 
three  weeks'  voyage.  Tlie  horrors  of  the  "  middle 
passage  "  have  not  been  exaggerated. 

They  must  have  lost  many  of  their  number  by 
death,  on  the  voyage,"  we  suggested  to  Don  Herero, 
as  we  observed  their  weak  and  tremulous  condition. 

"  Doubtless,"  was  the  response. 
And  what  do  they  do  in  that  case  ?  " 
They  have  the  ocean  always  alongside,"  was  his 
significant  reply. 

They  throw  them  over  as  they  did  that  body  just 
now  ?  "  we  asked. 


ALL  ON  SHORE. 


297 


"  Exactly.  And  many  a  poor  sick  creature  is  cast 
into  the  sea  before  life  is  extinct,"  he  continued. 

That  is  adding  murder  to  piracy,"  was  our  nat- 
ural and  indignant  rejoinder. 

''Hush!  "said  Don  Herero,  "  these  are  sensitive 
people,  and  desperate  ones,  as  well.  I  should  find  it 
difficult  to  protect  you  if  they  were  to  overhear  and 
understand  such  words." 

We  realized  that  his  remarks  were  true  enough. 
We  were  in  a  land  of  slavery,  and  that  meant  that 
everything  evil  was  possible. 

The  last  of  the  living  freight  had  been  landed,  and 
arranged  in  marching  trim  they  were  turned  with 
their  faces  inland,  staggering  as  they  went,  their 
sv/ollen  and  cramped  limbs  hardly  able  to  sustain 
the  weight  of  their  bodies.  They  were  all  secured 
with  handcuffs,  twenty  in  a  lot,  between  whom, — 
there  being  ten  on  a  side,  —  a  pole  was  placed,  and 
each  was  fastened  by  a  chain  running  through  the 
steel  handcuffs  to  the  pole.  An  armed  Spaniard  di- 
rected each  lot.  The  faces  of  all  were  quite  expres- 
sionless. They  had  just  endured  such  horrors  packed 
beneath  the  deck  of  the  brigantine  that  the  present 
change  must  have  been  welcome  to  them,  hime  as 
they  were. 

We  had  been  so  completely  engaged  in  watching 
the  colored  gangs  and  in  moving  up  to  our  lookout 
station  of  the  early  morning  that  our  thoughts  had 
not  reverted  to  anything  else,  but  as  the  last  lot  filed 
by  there  boomed  over  the  waters  of  the  bay  the 
heavy  report  of  a  gun,  at  once  calling  our  attention 
seaward.  A  change  had  come  over  the  scene.  That 
which  has  taken  some  space  to  relate  had  transpired 
with  great  rapidity.    Night  had  settled  over  the 


298 


DUE  sourii. 


scene,  but  the  moon  and  stars  were  so  marvelously 
bright  as  to  render  objects  almost  as  plain  as  by  day. 
The  ocean  lay  like  a  sheet  of  silver,  luminous  with  the 
reflected  light  poured  upon  it  by  the  sparkling  skies. 
Looking  towards  the  southeast,  we  saw  the  French 
cruiser  rounding  the  headland  which  formed  the  east- 
ern arm  of  the  little  bay,  and  she  had  already  sent  a 
shot  across  the  water  aimed  at  the  brigantine.  Don 
Herero  had  prognosticated  correctly.  The  slaver  had 
led  the  cruiser  a  fruitless  chase  and  lost  her  among 
the  islands,  and  then  returning  to  her  former  anchor- 
age had  successfully  discharged  her  cargo.  Her  tac- 
tics could  not  have  been  anticipated  by  the  cruiser, 
yet  liad  an  armed  party  been  left  behind  in  boats, 
the  brigantine  might  have  been  captured  on  her  re- 
turn. But  then  again,  if  the  cruiser  liad  left  a  por- 
tion of  her  crew  at  this  point,  the  slaver  would  have 
been  notified  by  the  friends  on  shore,  and  would  have 
sou^>ht  a  landing;  elsewhere. 

The  brigantine  had  cast  off  her  moorings  and  was 
now  standing  seaward,  with  her  sails  filled.  We 
could  distinctly  see  a  quarter  boat  leave  her  side 
manned  by  some  of  her  crew,  who  at  once  pulled  to- 
wards tlie  nearest  landing.  At  the  same  time  a  bright 
bLize  sprang  up  on  board  the  slaver  just  amidships, 
and  in  a  moment  more  it  crept,  like  a  living  serpent, 
from  shroud  to  shroud  and  from  spar  to  spar,  until 
the  graceful  brigantine  was  one  sheet  of  flame  !  It 
was  dazzling  to  look  upon,  even  at  the  distance  where 
we  stood,  the  body  of  high-reaching  flame  being 
sharply  defined  against  the  background  of  sky  and 
blue  water. 

While  we  watched  the  glowing  view  the  cruiser 
cautiously  changed  her  course  and  bore  away,  for  fire 


DESTRUCTION  OF  THE  SLAVE  SHIP.  299 


was  an  enemy  with  which  she  could  not  contend. 
Presently  there  arose  a  shower  of  blazing  matter 
heavenward,  while  a  confused  shock  and  a  dull  rum- 
bling report  filled  the  atmosphere,  as  the  guilty  brig- 
antine  was  blown  to  atoms !  Hemmed  in  as  she  was 
there  could  be  no  hope  of  escape.  Her  mission  was 
ended,  and  her  crew  followed  their  usual  orders,  to 
destroy  the  ship  rather  than  permit  her  to  fall  a  prize 
to  any  government  cruisers. 


CHAPTER  XV. 


Antique  Appearance  of  Everything.  —  The  Yeomen  of  Cuba.  — A 
Montero's  Home,  —  Personal  Experience.  —  The  Soil  of  the  Isl- 
and. —  Oppression  by  the  Government.  —  Spanish  Justice  in  Ha- 
vana. —  Tax  upon  the  Necessities  of  Life.  —  The  Proposed  Treaty 
with  Spain.  — A  One-Sided  Proposition.  —  A  Much  Taxed  People. 
—  Some  of  the  Items  of  Taxation.  —  Fraud  and  Bankruptcy.  — 
The  Boasted  Strength  of  Moro  Castle.  —  Destiny  of  Cuba.  —  A 
Heavy  Annual  Cost  to  Spain.  —  Political  Condition.  —  Pictures  of 
Memory. 

EvEHYTHiNG  in  Cuba  has  an  aspect  of  antiquity 
quite  Egyptian.  The  style  of  the  buildings  is  not  un- 
like that  of  the  Orient,  while  the  trees  and  vegetable 
products  increase  the  resemblance.  The  tall,  majestic 
palms,  the  graceful  cocoanut  trees,  the  dwellings  of 
the  lower  chisses  and  many  other  peculiarities  give 
to  the  scenery  an  Eastern  aspect  quite  impressive.  It 
is  impossible  to  describe  the  vividness  with  which 
each  object,  artificial  or  natural,  house  or  tree,  stands 
out  in  the  clear  liquid  light  where  there  is  no  haze  to 
interrupt  the  view.  Indeed,  it  is  impossible  to  ex- 
press how  essentially  everything  differs  in  this  sunny 
island  from  our  own  country.  The  language,  the 
people,  the  climate,  the  manners  and  customs,  the 
architecture,  the  foliage,  the  flowers,  all  offer  broad 
contrasts  to  what  the  American  has  so  lately  left  be- 
hind him.  It  is  but  a  long  cannon  shot,  as  it  were, 
off  our  southern  coast,  yet  once  upon  its  soil  the 
stranger  seems  to  have  been  transported  to  another 
quarter  of  the  globe.    It  would  require  but  little  ef- 


THE  AFRICAN  POPULATION. 


£01 


fort  of  the  imagination  to  believe  one's  self  in  distant 
Syria,  or  some  remoter  part  of  Asia. 

One  never  tires  of  watching  the  African  popula- 
tion, either  in  town  or  country.  During  the  hours 
which  the  slaves  are  allowed  to  themselves,  they  are 
oftenest  seen  working  on  their  own  allotted  piece  of 
ground,  where  they  raise  favorite  fruits  and  vegeta- 
bles, besides  corn  for  fattening  the  pig  penned  up 
near  by,  and  for  which  the  drover  who  regularly  vis- 
its the  plantations  will  pay  them  in  good  hard  money. 
Thus  it  has  been  the  case,  in  years  past,  that  thrifty 
slaves  have  earned  the  means  of  purchasing  their  free- 
dom, after  which  they  have  sought  the  cities,  and 
have  swelled  the  large  numbers  of  free  negroes  who 
naturally  tend  towards  these  populous  centres.  Some 
become  caleseros,  some  labor  upon  the  water-front  of 
the  town  as  stevedores,  porters,  and  the  like,  but  the 
majority  are  confirmed  idlers.  In  the  cities  even  the 
slaves  have  always  had  a  less  arduous  task  to  per- 
form than  those  on  the  plantations.  They  are  less 
exposed  to  the  sun,  and  are  as  a  rule  allowed  more 
freedom  and  privileges.  The  women  never  fail  to 
exhibit  the  true  negro  taste  for  cheap  jewelry.  A  few 
gaudy  ribbons  and  a  string  of  high-colored  glass  beads 
about  the  neck  are  greatly  prized  by  them.  Some- 
times the  mistress  of  a  good  looking  negress  takes 
great  pleasure  in  decking  her  immediate  attendant 
in  grand  style,  with  big  gold  finger  rings,  large  hoop 
earrings,  wide  gold  necklace,  and  the  like.  A  bright 
calico  gown  and  a  flaring  bandana  kerchief  bound 
about  the  head  generally  complete  the  costume  of 
these  petted  slaves.  There  was  one  sight  observed 
in  the  church  of  Santa  Clara  of  significance  in  this 
connection.    Before  the  altar  all  distinction  ceased. 


302 


DUE  SOUTH. 


and  the  negress  knelt  on  the  same  bit  of  carpet  be- 
side the  mistress. 

The  native  soil  of  Cuba  is  so  rich  that  a  touch  of 
the  hoe  prepares  it  for  the  plant.  It  is  said  to  be 
unsurpassed  in  the  world  in  this  respect,  and  only 
equaled  by  Australia.  The  Monteros  have  little  more 
to  do  than  to  gather  produce,  which  they  carry  daily 
to  the  nearest  market,  and  which  also  forms  their  own 
healthful  and  palatable  food.  Nowhere  are  the  ne- 
cessities of  life  so  easily  supplied,  or  are  men  so  deli- 
cately nurtured.  And  yet  to  our  Northern  eye  these 
Monteros  seemed  rather  a  forlorn  sort  of  people, 
forming  a  class  by  themselves,  and  regarded  with 
disdain  by  the  Spaniards  and  most  Creoles,  as  our 
Southern  slaveholders  used  to  regard  the  poor  whites 
of  the  South.  If  one  may  judge  by  appearances  they 
are  nearly  as  poor  in  purse  as  they  can  be.  Their 
home,  rude  and  lowly,  consists  generally  of  a  cabin 
with  a  bamboo  frame,  covered  by  a  palm-leaf  roof, 
and  with  an  earthen  floor.  There  are  a  few  broken 
hedges,  and  numbers  of  ragged  or  naked  children. 
Pigs,  hens,  goats,  all  stroll  ad  libitum  in  and  out  of 
the  cabin.  The  Montero's  tools  —  few  and  poorly 
adapted  —  are  Egyptian-like  in  primitiveness,  while 
the  few  vegetables  are  scarcely  cultivated  at  all. 
The  chaparral  about  his  cabin  is  low,  tangled,  and 
thorny,  but  it  is  remarkable  what  a  redeeming  effect 
a  few  graceful  palms  impart  to  the  crudeness  of  the 
picture. 

The  ]\Iontero  raises,  perhaps,  some  sweet  potatoes, 
which,  by  the  bye,  reach  a  very  large  size  in  Cuban 
soil.  He  has  also  a  little  patch  of  corn,  but  such 
corn.  When  ripe  it  is  only  three  or  four  feet  in 
height,  or  less  than  half  the  average  of  our  New 


A  MONTERO'S  HOME. 


303 


England  growth,  the  ears  mere  nubbins.  This  corn 
grows,  however,  all  the  year  round,  and  is  fed  gi-een 
to  horses  and  cattle.  All  this  is  done  upon  a  very 
small  scale.  No  one  lays  in  a  stock  of  anything  per- 
ishable. The  farmer's  or  the  citizen's  present  daily 
necessities  alone  are  provided  for.  Idleness  and  to- 
bacco occupy  most  of  the  Montero's  time,  varied  by 
the  semi-weekly  attractions  of  the  cock-pit.  The 
amount  of  sustaining  food  which  can  be  realized 
from  one  of  these  little  patches  of  ground,  so  utterly 
neglected,  is  something  beyond  credence  to  those 
who  have  not  looked  bountiful  nature  in  the  face 
in  Cuba. 

While  traveling  in  the  vicinity  of  Guines,  the 
author  stopped  at  one  of  these  lonelj^  Montero  homes 
to  obtain  water  and  refreshment  for  his  horse.  These 
were  promptly  furnished  in  the  form  of  a  pail  of 
water  and  a  bundle  of  green  cornstalks.  In  the 
mean  time  the  rude  hospitality  of  the  cabin  was 
proffered  to  us,  and  we  gladly  sat  down  to  partake 
of  cocoanut  milk  and  bananas.  One  of  the  family 
pets  of  the  cabin  consisted  of  a  tall  white  bird  of  the 
crane  species,  which,  regardless  of  goat,  kid,  hens, 
chickens,  and  children,  came  boldly  to  our  side  as 
though  accustomed  to  be  petted,  and  greedily  de- 
voured the  banana  which  was  peeled  for  him  and  cut 
into  tempting  bits.  One  wing  had  evidently  been 
cut  so  that  the  bird  could  not  fly  away,  but  his 
long,  vigorous  legs  would  have  defied  pursuit,  had 
he  desired  to  escape.  Four  children,  two  of  each 
sex,  two  of  whom  were  white  and  two  mulatto,  quite 
naked,  and  less  than  ten  years  of  age,  kept  close  to 
the  Montero's  Creole  wife,  watching  us  with  big, 
wondering  eyes,  and  fingers  thrust  into  their  mouths. 


804 


DUE  SOUTH. 


What  relationship  they  bore  to  the  household  was 
not  clearly  apparent.  On  rising  to  depart  and  at- 
tempting to  pay  for  the  entertainment,  the  master  of 
the  cabin,  with  true  Cuban  hospitality,  declined  all 
remuneration;  but  a  handful  of  small  silver  divided 
among  the  children  satisfied  all,  and  we  parted  with 
a  hearty  pressure  of  the  hand. 

The  richest  soil  of  the  island  is  black,  which  is 
best  adapted  to  produce  the  sugar-cane,  and  is  mostly 
devoted,  if  eligibly  located,  to  that  purpose.  To  a 
Northerner,  accustomed  to  see  so  much  enrichment 
expended  upon  the  soil  to  force  from  it  an  annual 
return,  this  profuseness  of  unstimulated  yield  is  a 
surprise.  The  red  soil  of  Cuba,  whicli  is  impreg- 
nated with  the  oxide  of  iron,  is  less  rich,  and  is  bet- 
ter adapted  to  the  coffee  plantation.  The  mulatto- 
colored  earth  is  considered  to  be  inferior  to  either  of 
the  others  named,  but  is  by  no  means  unproductive, 
being  preferred  by  the  tobacco  growers,  who,  how- 
ever, often  mingle  a  percentage  of  other  soils  with 
it,  as  we  mingle  barnyard  refuse  with  our  natuial 
soil.  Some  tobacco  planters  have  resorted  by  w^ay  of 
experiment  to  the  use  of  guano,  hoping  to  stimulate 
the  native  properties  of  the  soil,  but  its  effect  was 
found  to  be  not  only  exhausting  to  the  land,  but  also 
bad  for  the  leaf,  rendering  it  rank  and  unfit  for 
delicate  use. 

Coal  is  found  near  Havana,  though  it  is  of  rather 
an  inferior  qualit}^  and,  so  far  as  w^e  could  learn,  is 
but  little  used,  the  planters  depending  mostly  upon 
the  refuse  of  the  cane  with  which  to  run  their  boilers 
and  engines.  Trees  have  been  only  too  freely  used 
for  fuel  while  accessible,  but  great  care  is  now  taken 
to  utilize  the  cane  after  the  juice  is  expressed.  Trees, 


OPPRESSION  BY  THE  GOVERNMENT,  305 


which  are  so  much  needed  in  this  climate  for  shade 
purposes,  have  mostly  disappeared  near  Havana. 
When  Columbus  first  landed  here  he  wrote  home  to 
Spahi  that  the  island  was  so  thickly  wooded  as  to  be 
impassable. 

The  lovely  climate  and  beautiful  land  are  rendered 
gloomy  by  the  state  of  oppression  under  which  tliey 
suffer.  The  exuberant  soil  groans  with  the  burdens 
which  are  heaped  upon  it.  The  people  are  not  safe 
from  prying  inquiry  at  bed  or  board.  Their  every 
action  is  watched,  their  slightest  words  noted  and 
perliaps  distorted.  They  can  sing  no  song  of  liberty, 
and  even  to  hum  an  air  wedded  to  republican  verse 
is  to  provoke  suspicion.  The  press  is  muzzled  by 
the  iron  hand  of  power.  Two  hours  before  a  daily 
paper  is  distributed  on  the  streets  of  Havana,  a  copy 
must  be  sent  to  the  government  censor.  When  it  is 
returned  with  his  indorsement  it  may  be  issued  to 
the  public.  The  censorship  of  the  telegraph  is  also  as 
rigorously  enforced.  Nor  do  private  letters  through 
the  mails  escape  espionage.  No  passenger  agent  in 
Havana  dares  to  sell  a  ticket  for  the  departure  of 
a  stranger  or  citizen  without  first  seeing  that  the 
individuaUs  passport  is  indorsed  by  the  police.  For- 
eign soldiers  fatten  upon  the  people,  or  at  least  they 
eat  out  their  substance,  and  every  town  near  the 
coast  is  a  garrison,  every  interior  village  a  military 
depot. 

Upon  landing,  if  well  advised,  one  is  liberal  to  the 
petty  officials.  Chalk  is  cheap.  A  five-dollar  gold- 
piece  smooths  the  way  wonderfully,  and  causes  the 
inspector  to  cross  one's  baggage  with  his  chalk  and 
no  questions  asked.  No  gold,  no  chalk  !  Every  arti- 
cle must  be  scrupulously  examined.    It  is  cheapest 

20 


806 


DUE  SOUTH, 


to  pay,  humiliating  as  it  is,  and  thus  purchase  im- 
munity. 

As  a  specimen  of  the  manner  in  which  justice  is 
dispensed  in  Havana  to-day,  a  case  is  presented 
which  occurred  during  our  stay  at  the  Telegrafo 
Hotel.  A  native  citizen  was  waylaid  by  three  men 
and  robbed  of  his  pocket-book  and  watch,  about  fifty 
rods  from  the  hotel,  at  eight  o'clock  in  the  evening. 
The  rascal  who  secured  the  booty,  threatening  his  vic- 
tim all  the  while  with  a  knife  at  his  throat,  instantly 
ran  away,  but  the  citizen  succeeded  in  holding  on  to 
the  other  two  men  until  his  outcries  brought  the 
police  to  the  spot.  The  two  accomplices  were  at  once 
imprisoned.  Three  days  later  they  were  brought 
before  an  authorized  court,  and  tried  for  the  robbery. 
Being  taken  red-lianded,  as  it  were,  one  would  sup- 
pose their  case  w^as  clear  enough,  and  that  they  would 
be  held  until  they  gave  up  their  accomplice.  Not  so, 
however.  The  victim  of  the  robbery,  who  had  lost 
a  hundred  and  sixty  dollars  in  money  and  a  valuable 
gold  watch,  was  coolly  rebuked  for  carrying  so  nmch 
property  about  his  person,  and  the  case  was  dis- 
missed! Had  the  sufferer  been  a  home  Spaniard 
possibly  the  result  would  have  been  different.  The 
inference  is  plain  and  doubtless  correct,  that  the 
official  received  half  the  stolen  property,  provided  he 
would  hberate  the  culprits.  Sometimes,  as  we  w^ere 
assured,  the  victim  outbids  the  rogues,  and  exem- 
plary punishment  follows  ! 

Flour  of  a  good  commercial  quality  sells  at  present 
in  Boston  for  six  dollars  per  barrel.  Why  should  it 
cost  fourteen  dollars  in  Havana  and  other  ports  of 
Cuba  ?  Because  Spain  demands  a  tax  of  one  hun- 
dred per  cent,  to  be  paid  into  the  royal  treasury  upon 


THE  PROPOSED  TREATY  WITH  SPAIN,  307 


this  prime  necessity  of  life.  This  one  example  is 
sufficient  to  illustrate  her  policy,  which  is  to  extort 
from  the  Cubans  every  possible  cent  that  can  be  ob- 
tained. The  extraordinary  taxation  imposed  upon 
their  subjects  by  the  German  and  Austrian  govern- 
ments is  carried  to  the  very  limit,  it  would  seem,  of 
endurance,  but  taxation  in  Cuba  goes  far  beyond  any- 
thing of  the  sort  in  Europe.  Spain  now  asks  us  to 
execute  with  her  a  favorable  "  reciprocity  treaty. 
Such  a  treaty  as  she  jDroposes  would  be  of  very  great 
benefit  to  Spain,  no  doubt,  but  of  none,  or  compara- 
tively none,  to  us.  Whatever  w^e  seemingl}^  do  for 
Cuba  in  the  matter  of  such  a  treaty  we  should  do 
indirectly  for  Spain.  She  it  is  who  will  reap  all  the 
bsnefit.  She  has  still  upon  her  hands  some  fifty  to 
sixty  thousand  civil  and  military  individuals,  who  are 
supported  by  a  miserable  system  of  exaction  as  high 
and  petty  officials  in  this  misgoverned  island. 

It  is  for  the  interest  of  this  army  of  locusts  in  pos- 
session to  keep  up  the  present  state  of  affairs,  —  it  is 
bread  and  butter  to  them,  though  it  be  death  to  the 
Cubans.  Relieved  of  the  enormous  taxation  and  op- 
pression generally  which  her  people  labor  under  in 
every  department  of  life,  Cuba  would  gradually  as- 
sume a  condition  of  thrift  and  plenty.  But  while 
she  is  so  trodden  upon,  so  robbed  in  order  to  support 
in  luxury  a  host  of  rapacious  Spaniards,  and  forbid- 
den any  voice  in  the  control  of  her  own  affairs,  all 
the  treaty  concessions  which  we  could  make  to  Spain 
would  only  serve  to  keep  up  and  perpetuate  the  great 
farce.  Such  a  treaty  as  is  proposed  would  be  in 
reality  granting  to  Spain  a  subsidy  of  about  thirty 
million  dollars  per  annum  !  This  conclusion  was  ar- 
rived at  after  consultation  with  three  of  the  principal 


308 


DUE  SOUTH. 


United  States  consuls  on  the  island.  Cuba  purchases 
very  little  from  us ;  she  has  not  a  consuming  popula- 
tion of  over  three  hundred  thousand.  The  common 
people,  negroes,  and  Chinese  do  not  each  expend  five 
duliars  a  year  for  clothing.  Rice,  codfish,  and  dried 
beef,  with  the  abundant  fruits,  form  their •  support. 
Little  or  none  of  these  come  from  the  United  States. 
The  few  consumers  wear  goods  which  we  cannot,  or 
at  least  do  not  produce.  A  reciprocity  treaty  with 
such  a  people  means,  therefore,  giving  them  a  splen- 
did annual  subsidy. 

Taxed  by  the  government  to  the  very  last  extreme, 
the  landlords,  shopkeepers,  and  all  others  who  work 
for  hire  hav-e  also  learned  the  trick  of  it,  and  practice 
a  similar  game  on  every  possible  victim.  Seeing  a 
small  desirable  text  book  in  a  shop  on  the  Calle  de 
Obrapia,  we  asked  the  price. 

"  Two  dollars,  gold,  senor,"  was  the  answer. 
Why  do  you  charge  just  double  the  price  one 
would  pay  for  it  in  Madrid,  Paris,  or  New  York  ?  " 
we  asked. 

Because  we  are  so  heavily  taxed,"  was  the  reply, 
and  the  shopman  went  on  to  illustrate. 

Each  small  retail  store  is  taxed  three  hundred  dol- 
lars for  the  right  to  do  business.  As  the  store  in- 
creases in  size  and  importance  the  tax  is  increased. 
A  new  tax  of  six  per  cent,  on  the  amount  of  all  other 
taxation  has  just  been  added,  to  cover  the  cost  of 
collecting  the  whole !  A  war  tax  of  twenty-five  per 
cent,  upon  incomes  was  laid  in  1868,  and  though  the 
war  has  been  ended  ten  years  it  is  still  collected. 
Every  citizen  or  resideut  in  Havana  is  obliged  to  sup- 
ply himself  with  a  document  which  is  called  a  cedula, 
or  paper  of  identification,  at  an  annual  cost  of  five 


SOME  ITEMS  OF  TAXATION. 


809 


dollars  in  gold.  Every  merchant  who  places  a  sign 
outside  of  his  door  is  taxed  so  much  per  letter  annu- 
ally. Clerks  in  private  establishments  have  to  pay 
two  and  one  half  per  cent,  of  their  quarterly  salaries 
to  government.  Railroads  pay  a  tax  of  ten  per  cent, 
upon  all  passage  money  received,  and  the  same  on  all 
freight  money.  Petty  officials  invent  and  impose 
fines  upon  the  citizens  for  the  most  trifling  things, 
and  strangers  are  mulcted  in  various  sums  of  money 
whenever  a  chance  occurs,  generally  liquidating  the 
demand  rather  than  to  be  at  the  cost  of  time  and 
money  to  contest  their  rights.  The  very  beggars  in 
the  streets,  blind,  lame,  or  diseased,  if  found  in  pos- 
session of  money,  are  forced  to  share  it  with  officials 
on  some  outrageous  pretext.  All  these  things  taken 
into  consideration  show  us  why  the  shopkeeper  of 
Havana  must  charge  double  price  for  his  merchandise. 
We  have  only  named  a  few  items  of  taxation  which 
happen  to  occur  to  us,  and  which  only  form  a  com- 
mencement of  the  long  list. 

It  is  nearly  impossible  at  present  to  collect  a  note 
or  an  account  on  the  island.  Several  of  the  guests 
at  the  Telegrafo  had  come  from  the  United  States 
solely  upon  these  fruitless  errands,  each  having  the 
same  experience  to  relate.  Dishonest  debtors  take 
advantage  of  the  general  state  of  bankruptcy  which 
exists,  and  plead  utter  inability  to  meet  their  obliga- 
tions, while  others,  w^ho  would  gladly  pay  their  honest 
debts  if  it  were  possible,  have  not  the  means  to  do  so. 

There  is  considerable  counterfeit  paper  money  in 
circulation,  and  we  were  told  that  the  banks  of  the 
city  of  Havana  actually  paid  it  out  knowingly  over 
)         their  own  counters,  mixed  in  with  genuine  bills,  —  a 
presumed  perquisite  of  the  bank  officers !    This  un- 


310 


DUE  SOUTH, 


precedented  fraud  was  not  put  a  stop  to  until  the 
merchants  and  private  bankers  threatened  to  have  the 
doors  of  the  banks  closed  by  popular  force  if  the  out- 
rage was  longer  continued.  Could  such  a  public 
fraud  be  carried  on  under  any  other  than  a  Spanish 
government  ?  It  is  not  pleasant  to  record  the  fact, 
but  it  is  nevertheless  true  that  the  Spaniards  in  Cuba 
are  artful,  untruthful,  unreliable  even  in  small  things, 
with  no  apparent  sense  of  honor,  and  seeking  just 
now  mainly  how  they  can  best  avoid  their  honest  obli- 
gations. As  evil  communications  are  contagious,  the 
Cubans  have  become  more  or  less  impregnated  with 
this  spirit  of  commercial  dishonesty.  It  must  be  ad- 
mitted that  of  true,  conscientious  principles  neither 
party  has  any  to  spare. 

The  writer  has  often  been  asked  about  Moro  Cas- 
tle. Much  has  been  said  about  its  impregnable  " 
character,  but  modern  military  science  will  not  recog- 
nize any  such  theory.  A  thousand  chances  are  liable 
to  happen,  any  one  of  which  might  give  the  place  into 
the  hands  of  an  invading  force.  Has  it  not  already 
been  twice  taken  ?  Thongh  it  may  be  said  that 
auxiliary  forts  have  been  added  since  those  expe- 
riences, nevertheless  modern  artillery  would  make 
but  short  work  of  the  boasted  defenses  of  Havana, 
and  would  knock  the  metropolis  itself  all  to  pieces  in 
a  few  hours,  while  lying  out  of  range  from  Moro  Cas- 
tle. ISTo  invading  force  need  attack  from  the  seaward 
side,  unless  it  should  be  found  particularly  desirable 
to  do  so.  The  place  could  be  easily  taken,  as  the 
French  took  Algiers,  by  landing  a  sufficient  force  in 
the  rear.  With  the  exception  of  the  fortresses  in  and 
about  Havana,  the  island,  with  its  two  thousand  miles 
of  coast  line  and  nearly  one  hundred  accessible  har- 


CUBA'S  POLITICAL  AFFINITY. 


311 


bors,  is  certainly  very  poorly  prepared  to  resist  an 
invading  enemy.  Cuba's  boasted  military  or  defen- 
sive strength  is  chimerical. 

That  the  ishmd  naturally  belongs  to  this  country 
is  a  fact  so  plain  as  to  have  been  conceded  by  all 
authorities.  In  this  connection  one  is  forcibly  re- 
minded of  the  words  of  Jefferson  in  a  letter  to  Presi- 
dent Monroe,  so  long  ago  as  1823,  wherein  he  says  : 

I  candidly  confess  that  I  have  ever  looked  on  Cuba 
as  the  most  interesting  addition  which  could  be  made 
to  our  system  of  States.  The  control  which,  with 
Florida  Point,  this  island  would  give  us  over  the  Gulf 
of  Mexico  and  the  countries  and  the  isthmus  border- 
ing it,  would  fill  up  the  measure  of  our  political  well- 
being."  Is  it  generally  known  that  Cuba  was  once 
freely  offered  to  this  government  ?  During  the  presi- 
dency of  Jefferson,  while  Spain  was  bowed  beneath 
the  yoke  of  France,  the  people  of  the  island,  feeling 
themselves  incompetent  to  maintain  their  indepen- 
dence, sent  a  deputation  to  Washington  city  propos- 
ing its  annexation  to  the  federal  system  of  North 
America.  The  President,  however,  declined  to  even 
consider  the  proffered  acquisition.  Again,  in  1848, 
President  Polk  authorized  our  minister  at  Madrid 
to  offer  a  hundred  million  dollars  for  a  fee  simple  of 
the  island,  but  it  was  rejected  by  Spain. 

Completely  divided  against  itself,  the  mystery  is 
how  Cuba  has  been  so  long  sustained  in  its  present 
system.  Spain  has  crowded  regiment  after  regiment 
of  her  army  into  the  island.  It  was  like  pouring 
water  into  a  sieve,  the  troops  being  absorbed  by  death 
almost  as  fast  as  they  could  be  landed.  The  com- 
bined slaughter  brought  about  by  patriot  bullets, 
hardships,  exposure,  fever,  and  every  possible  adverse 


312 


DUE  SOUTH, 


circumstance  has  been  enormous  beyond  belief.  In 
spite  of  all  this  sacrifice  of  human  life,  besides  mil- 
lions of  gold  expended  annually,  what  does  Spain 
gain  by  holding  tenaciously  to  her  title  of  the  island  ? 
Nothing,  absolutely  nothing.  The  time  has  long 
passed  when  the  system  of  extortion  enforced  upon 
the  Cubans  served  to  recuperate  the  roj'al  treasury. 
The  tide  has  entirely  changed  in  this  respect,  and 
though  the  taxation  has  been  increased,  still  the  home 
government  is  mulcted  in  the  sum  of  six  or  eight  mil- 
lions of  dollars  annually  to  keep  up  the  present  worse 
than  useless  system.  The  deficit  of  the  Cuban 
budget  for  the  present  year,  as  we  were  credibly  in- 
formed, could  not  be  less  than  eight  millions  of  dol- 
lars. How  is  Spain  to  meet  this  continuous  drain 
upon  her  resources?  She  is  already  financially  bank- 
rupt. It  is  in  this  political  strait  that  she  seeks  a 
one-sided  treaty  with  the  United  States,  by  means  of 
which  she  hopes  to  eke  out  her  possession  of  the  isl- 
and a  few  years  longer,  through  our  liberality,  —  a 
treaty  bv  which  she  would  gain  some  thirty  millions 
of  dollars  annually,  and  we  should  be  just  so  much 
the  j)oorer. 

As  regards  the  final  destiny  of  Cuba,  that  question 
will  be  settled  by  certain  economic  laws  which  are  as 
sure  in  their  operation  as  are  those  of  gravitation. 
No  matter  what  our  wishes  may  be  in  the  matter, 
such  individual  desires  are  as  nothing  when  arraigned 
against  natural  laws.  The  commerce  of  the  island  is 
a  stronger  factor  in  the  problem  than  mere  politics; 
it  is  the  active  agent  of  civilization  all  over  the  world. 
It  is  not  cannon,  but  ships  ;  not  gunpowder,  but  peace- 
ful freights,  which  settle  the  great  questions  of  mer- 
cantile communities.    Krupp's  hundred-ton  guns  will 


DESTINY  OF  CUBA. 


313 


not  control  the  fate  of  Cuba,  but  sugar  will.  We 
have  only  to  ask  ourselves,  Whither  does  the  great 
commercial  interest  of  the  island  point?  It  is  in  the 
direction  in  which  the  largest  portion  of  her  products 
find  their  market.  If  this  were  England,  towards 
that  land  her  industry  and  her  people  would  look 
hopefully,  but  as  it  is  the  United  States  who  take 
over  ninety  per  cent,  of  her  entire  exports,  towards 
the  country  of  the  Stars  and  Stripes  she  stretches  out 
her  hands,  and  asks  for  favorable  treaties. 

At  the  present  moment  she  has  reached  a  crisis, 
where  her  condition  is  absolutely  desperate.  The 
hour  is  big  with  fate  to  the  people  of  Cuba.  As 
long  as  European  soil  will  produce  beets,  the  product 
of  the  cane  will  find  no  market  on  that  side  of  the 
Atlantic.  Cuba  must  in  the  future  depend  as  much 
upon  the  United  States  as  does  Vermont,  Mississippi, 
New  York,  Ohio,  or  any  other  State.  The  effort 
to  bring  about  a  reciprocal  treaty  of  commerce  w^ith 
us  is  but  the  expression  of  a  natural  tendency  to 
closer  bonds  with  this  country.  Thus  it  will  be 
seen  that  as  regards  her  commercial  existence,  Cuba 
is  already  within  the  economic  orbit  of  our  Union, 
though  she  seems  to  be  so  far  away  politically.  The 
world's  centre  of  commercial  gravity  is  changing  very 
fast  by  reason  of  the  great  and  rapid  development  of 
the  United  States,  and  all  lands  surrounding  the  union 
must  conform  to  the  prevailing  lines  of  motion. 

It  is  with  infinite  reluctance  that  the  temporary  so- 
journer in  Cuba  leaves  her  delicious  shores.  A  brief 
residence  in  the  island  passes  like  a  midsummer  night's 
dream,  while  the  memories  one  brings  away  seem 
almost  like  delusive  spots  of  the  imagination.  Smil- 
ing skies  and  smiling  waters ;  groves  of  palms  and 


314 


DUE  SOUTH, 


oranges;  the  bloom  of  the  heliotrope,  the  jasmine 
and  the  rose;  flights  of  strange  iiiid  gaudy  birds; 
tropic  nights  at  once  luxurious  and  cahn  ;  clouds  of 
fireflies  floating  like  unsphered  stars  on  the  night 
breeze;  graceful  figures  of  dark-eyed  senoritas  in  di- 
aphanous drapery  ;  picturesque  groups  of  Monte ros, 
relieved  by  the  dusky  faces  and  stalwart  forms  of 
the  sons  of  Africa;  undulating  volantes,  military  pa- 
geants, ecclesiastical  processions,  frowning  fortresses, 
grim  batteries,  white  sails,  fountains  raining  silver  ; 
all  these  images  mingle  in  brilliant  kaleidoscopic 
combinations,  changing  and  varying  as  the  mind's  eye 
seeks  to  fix  their  features.  Long  after  his  departure 
from  the  enchanting  island,  the  traveler  beholds 
these  visions  in  the  still  watches  of  the  night,  and 
again  listens  to  the  dash  of  the  sea-green  waves  at 
the  foot  of  the  Moro  and  the  Punta,  the  roll  of  the 
drum  and  the  crash  of  arms  upon  the  ramparts,  or 
hears  in  fancy  the  thrilling  strains  of  music  from 
the  military  band  in  the  Paseo  de  Isabella. 

If  it  were  possible  to  contemphite  only  the  beauti- 
ful that  nature  has  so  prodigally  lavished  on  this 
Eden  of  the  Gulf,  shutting  out  all  that  man  has  dcme 
and  is  doing  to  mar  the  blessings  of  heaven,  wliile 
closing  our  eyes  to  the  myriad  forms  of  human  mis- 
ery that  assail  them  on  every  hand,  then  a  visit  to  or 
a  residence  in  Cuba  would  present  a  succession  of 
unalloyed  pleasures,  delightful  as  a  poet's  dream. 
But  the  dark  side  of  the  picture  will  force  itself  upon 
us.  The  American  traveler,  keenly  alive  to  the  so- 
cial and  political  aspects  of  life,  appreciates  in  full 
force  the  evils  that  challenge  his  observation  at  every 
step.  If  he  contrasts  the  natural  scenery  with  the 
familiar  pictures  of  home,  he  cannot  help  also  con- 


A  BROAD  CONTRAST. 


815 


trasting  the  political  condition  of  the  people  with 
that  of  his  own  country.  The  existence,  almost  under 
the  shadow  of  the  flag  of  the  freest  institutions  the 
earth  ever  knew,  of  a  government  as  purely  despotic 
as  that  of  the  autocrat  of  Russia  is  a  monstrous  fact 
that  must  startle  the  most  indifferent  observer. 

To  go  hence  to  Cuba  is  not  merely  to  pass  over  a 
few  degrees  of  latitude,  —  it  is  to  take  a  step  from  the 
nineteenth  century  back  into  the  dark  ages.  In  the 
clime  of  sunshine  and  endless  summer,  we  are  in 
the  land  of  starless  political  darkness.  Lying  under 
the  lee  of  a  land  where  every  man  is  a  sovereign  is 
a  realm  where  the  lives,  liberties,  and  fortunes  of  all 
are  held  at  the  will  of  a  single  individual,  who  ac- 
knowledges fealty  only  to  a  nominal  ruler  more  than 
three  thousand  miles  across  the  sea. 

In  close  proximity  to  a  country  where  the  taxes 
are  self-imposed  and  so  light  as  to  be  almost  unfelt 
is  one  where  each  free  family  pays  over  five  hundred 
dollars  per  annum,  directly  and  indirectly,  for  the 
support  of  a  system  of  bigoted  tyranny,  scarcely 
equaled  elsewhere, — forming  an  aggregate  sum  of 
over  twenty-six  millions  of  dollars.  For  all  this  ex- 
tortion no  equivalent  is  received.  No  representation, 
no  utterance,  for  tongue  or  pen  are  alike  proscribed ; 
no  share  of  public  honors,  no  office,  no  emolument. 
The  industry  of  the  people  is  crippled,  their  inter- 
course with  other  nations  is  hampered  in  every  con- 
ceivable manner,  and  every  liberal  aspiration  of  the 
human  soul  stifled  in  its  birth.  Can  good  morals  and 
Christian  lives  be  expected  of  a  people  who  are  so 
down-trodden  ? 

Salubrious  in  climate,  varied  in  production,  and 
most  fortunately  situated  for  commerce,  there  must 


816 


DUE  SOUTH. 


yet  be  a  grand  future  in  store  for  Cuba.  Washed  by 
the  Gulf  Stream  on  half  her  border,  while  the  Missis- 
sippi pours  out  its  riches  on  one  side  and  the  Amazon 
on  the  other,  her  home  is  naturally  within  our  own 
constellation  of  stars,  and  some  of  those  who  read 
these  pages  may  live  to  see  such  a  consummation. 


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